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Robin Dobbie

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  1. Tried both. I did music also so that I would at least have transients powerful enough so that I could achieve peaks that I knew for a fact, beyond any stretch of the imagination were more than an order of magnitude greater than .9 to 2 watts.
  2. I think one time I got it to show 2 watts, but mostly it says 0 watts. One speaker lead is running through the hole in the meter, and the leads are connected(actually screwed into) to the speaker terminals. https://www.mediafire.com/file/g5le0ybki1lohnb/out.mp4/file
  3. Good to know. It's nice when tools work even after an update. Unlike smartphones.
  4. I don't know if it's relevant for these AGM types of batteries, but you can take lead acid batteries to many auto supply stores and they have a gadget to test them under realistic load. Even walmart can do this. Once, I thought my battery was going out and I happened to be within walking distance of a walmart. I was going to just buy a new battery on the spot, but they tested the old battery and said it was good. They printed a little slip of paper with some specs and tests the battery was capable of passing. I would bet autozone or similar could do the same. Worth calling one of them to find out.
  5. I was able to find one. I suppose any moment now we'll find out the re-tooling will result in better functionality and/or lower cost.
  6. Well that's promising. I was going to check the classifieds to see if someone wanted to part with theirs but it says, "The area you are attempting to access is currently offline. " ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  7. I apologize if this is the wrong forum. Any word on if the dynos are discontinued or what?
  8. Air velocity means air speed. It's an estimation of how fast the air might be traveling inside the port. In meters per second. At a given frequency/signal level. In this image, you can see I've clicked on the peak of the green line. At 25.46 hz, at the power I've chosen in the signal tab, WinISD estimates that the air in the ports could reach speeds of 24 m/s(meters per second). If 25hz is above my high-pass filter, and if the subs are going to be where I'll be able to hear port chuffing, I may want to: * enlarge the ports * add an additional port * make the port(s) as round as possible(triangles and squares work, too) Slot ports work really well for some designs, but they have the highest perimeter area for a given port size. It's the air traveling over the surface of the port/bends that causes audible chuffing.
  9. The smaller the port area, the higher the air velocity will be, the more noise the port will make. Too large an area and you need an absurdly long port. Rule of thumbs(or is it rules of thumb?) I've heard are don't make a port with a dimension less than 1.5" and keep the vent velocity below 20 meters/second. Some people are ok with as much as 30 if the sub is tucked away. It's important to input a reasonable wattage in the signal tab. I've heard half RMS is a good starting point. I went years without knowing what this was just by making ports what seemed to be the "right size."
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