Dafaseles
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Posts posted by Dafaseles
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1 hour ago, SnowDrifter said:
Noice!
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33 minutes ago, Chug Wysley said:
Man that is some solid advise! Thank you. I did try the Duracell battery and got the signal light to light up. Still no 40hz detect or distortion light, but a step in the right direction. I will try changing around the inputs and setting it like you mentioned. Will keep you updated. Thank you.
Try also using a 1000 hz tone to see if you get different results
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1 hour ago, Chug Wysley said:
Unfortunately the CD player does not work on the head unit so I have had to download the test tones. I’ve tried 0db 40hz and -5db 40hz. I’m going to try a Duracell battery in place of the energizer battery tomorrow. Should I just set the head unit and lc7i to 3/4 and adjust the amplifier gain until it lights up distortion? It’s weird but on the speaker outputs coming from the head unit and the lc7i, I can’t get it to show distortion at any volume, but im sure it is distorted if I had speakers hooked up.
How do you have the Lc7i hooked up? Are you sure you're sending all frequencies through it?
Have you tried to find max volume with a 1000 hz test tone?
If you're getting your high level input from someplace that the OEM unit isn't sending a full signal to, you might not be getting 40 hz through the equipment. Let's say someone is getting their high level input from factory tweeters. Well, the OEM system isn't going to send all the frequencies through that speaker, so the LOC won't get it either, thus making it so the DD-1 doesn't detect it.
LOC's like the Lc7i have multiple inputs so on complex stock systems that send different crossed over signals to different speakers, you can take all those, feed them into the LOC individually, and the Lc7i will sum up the different frequencies to make them one cohesive...... unit I guess you could say.
Also, when we set the gains in my buddies system with the Lc2i, we had to set the accubass first as well to compensate for the bass roll off.
If I'm not mistaken, in the DD-1 manual, or says turn the gains all the way down (I could be mistaken), but I've had good luck with just barely cracking the gain a hair.
On another note, once you get it working, set the head unit and LOC gain using a 0 db tone, then set your overlap just on the amplifier
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37 minutes ago, Chug Wysley said:
Dafaseles, yes I did use a name brand battery, as far as the crossover settings on the amplifier, I turned it to 100hz as advised and the subsonic all the way down. Would the volume need to be set separately on the radio, lc7i and amplifier separately?
Are you using the 0 db 40 hz tone to find the max volume of the head unit and set the gain on the LC7i?
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First, try changing the batteries to a strong, name brand battery. It might sound stupid, but I've seen it work more than once.
Second, did you make sure your crossovers aren't overlapping? Make sure your low pass filter is set as high as you can, and your subsonic is set as low as you can.
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1 hour ago, Fin3ssed said:
You can actually feed them 3k rms from a taramps smart 3k and the evl will take it all day.
Done in the right conditions, right enclosure, electrical all the way correct, gains and crossovers set perfectly.... maybe. But I'm not going to give someone the advice to throw that kind of power at it because if they end up blowing the sub because of over powering it, I'm not going to warrantee that shit🤣
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That rack is so damn clean!
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What final impedance are you going to be running at? 2 ohm or .5?
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3 minutes ago, floridaplur said:
Old thread back to life lol.
What orientation should the fans be? All blowing air in, or half blowing in and half pulling out?
I didn't read this while thread, but I've watched the YouTube videos that Steve has used the fans and it seems he'll put fans on one side blowing in, and the fans on the other end blowing out.
A good one to watch is of the Tahoe. Old ass video when he's first building the under the enclosure amp rack in his garage at home. The way he gets air to flow though the different sections is a really good lesson in my opinion
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Did you link them through the master/ slave RCA output? Or the 2 RCA outputs next to the inputs?
I picture of the side of the amps where you connected them would help
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2 hours ago, whoopdeedoo said:
Tried to find my specific issue via forums and google but no dice.
If I test my headunit (Pioneer 80PRS) for distortion via rcas everything works as expected and I end up with vol 57/60 showing clean.I tried testing via the alternate method, through the amp and I can't get a signal or 40hz light but the distortion light does come on at vol 53/60. I've reread the manual and triple checked all settings, xover, filter etc. I cannot get a signal or 40hz light with the gain of the amp all the way down as the manual suggests. As soon as I turn the gain up at all the signal and 40hz turn on.
Should I just go with the headunit only method and ignore the results I'm getting through the amp? Any idea why it doesn't work through the amp as the manual recommends?
Thanks
I ran into this same problem. I just crack the gain a little bit to get the signal light. It seems to still work as expected
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2 hours ago, Express paint said:
Please read entire system destroyed by dd1
I bought brand new dd1 brand new I was excited I have 2 8k taramps it was hitting 157db before setting both amps to exact same. So I read and watched video on my radio turned down all settings to 0 and on my amp all settings to 0 then took speaker wires out put my leads of dd1 to positive and negative on amp tightened them then put CD in and put on track 8 started to turn radio up the signal light never came on Cause it was broke from factory or maybe a customer returned and they gave to me not sure but I turned all the way up then took everything out and one of my amps was fried completely and the other stays on when i take the remote wire out so every time i get out of truck I have to disconnect duel zero guage ground wires so it was broke from factory i tried to contact Steve on Facebook he doesn't care do not buy this dont it probably happens to 1 out of a thousand and I was that guy and i can't even get my money back or a new one nevermind my amps being blown
How did a calibration tool..... even if it was broken.... blow your amps? It does nothing but read a signal.
Did you have an LOC as well? Or aftermarket head unit?
Mine, when I use it, I'll set everything almost all the way down. Volume and gain on the amp cracked a tiny bit. Then I turn up the head unit I get the signal and frequency light.
And you where using track 8? Why where you setting your subwoofer amp gains with a 1kz -15db tone?
Also you'd need to torn the subsonic filter all the way up, and the low pass all the way down, or it could impede the frequency from coming through.
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At least with mine, the signal light will come on before the frequency light. Maybe you're signal light is faulty. How long have you owned it?
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10 hours ago, audiofanaticz said:
Wrong, I still cant understand how people think this or maybe you worded it wrong but the DD-1 will NEVER measure clipping.
You will have distortion long before clipping is ever seen on an oscilloscope. Once the red light on the DD-1 lights up you hit 1% THD so by the time the wave is becoming deformed on an oscilloscope you are so far beyond that 1% THD that the DD-1 is looking for.
No, I didn't miss word it. I was just wrong. Thank you for the clarification. I thought it measured both. I must admit, I only skimmed through the manual lol.
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I would use the DD-1 for all components.
It measures more than just clipping. It'll detect distortion as well. So, even if you end up adjusting the gain down for whatever reason, at least you'll be aware of the max you can go without distortion.
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48 minutes ago, John1353 said:
So I have a AC D-6.1200 running 3 way active system in the doors. I am pulling signal off the D-6.1200 line level output to feed a AC 1.300 mono amp for a single 10" JL. The signal level on that output is affected by the input slider position for the Mid/Woofer door speakers. If I set that channel up with a 3db over lap, that is the signal that is also supplying the 1.300 for the Sub. Now how do you get the sub setup to a 8db overlap which has a pot gain?
The same way.
Find your head unit max volume with a 0 db overlap. Any EQ's or whatever before the amplifiers, also with a 0 db overlap. Your highs amp, use your -3 db overlap. Then use your -8 for the sub amp.
You can even double check if it's done correctly. Set your highs and sub amp up using the -3, then re-setup your sub amp using the -8. There should be a slight difference in the amount of gain you can give it between the -3 and the -8
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14 minutes ago, NYCNP said:
I have the same issue. Old 2006 Lexus RX330, new Sony stereo just installed. Works when car is on but engine is off. Turn ignition on, stereo goes silent. Still lights up and shows that music should be playing, but no sound comes out.
Any ideas?
Any aftermarket amplifiers?
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6 hours ago, Frotasticben said:
I'm Ben, I've had a subwoofer box in my vehicles ever since I started driving at 16. So, I've been a Basshead for 16 years now. I came across this site looking for a High Output Alternator for my 2017 Mazda CX-5 Sport. Currently running a Skar 1200.1 D Amplifier, a Skar DDX-10 D2 Subwoofer, and 1/0 AWG OFC Wire.
Welcome!
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33 minutes ago, Joe X said:
That port is a joke as you describe it, you should list your full box design and pics of everything, your subs are kind of entry level too.
Also relax a bit please, one thing at a time. and a lot of pics.
I was thinking the same thing about the port, but I don't know a much about box design. I didn't want to say anything about it and be wrong lol
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That's a lot....
Well, there could be many different reasons why you're not getting the output you want.
How many cubic feet of airspace do you have inside the box?
What is your box tuned to? If it's tuned too high, or too low, that can hinder output.
How did you set your gain on your amp? If the gain isn't set right, you'll never get the output you want.
What are your crossover settings on the amp? If your subsonic and low pass filter (LPF) isn't set correctly, you could be cutting off frequencies you need.
How many amps is your aftermarket alternator? And what brand is it?
I see the cap (which you should ditch to be honest) but what battery are you running? 1 or 2?
The big 3 is upgrading your positive cable from your alternator to your battery. Then battery negative to the frame or chassis (depending on where your amplifiers are grounded) and then from battery negative to the engine block/ alternator. Not your starter. So you could have bottlenecks in your electrical, causing voltage drops.
My buddy has a mega cab, behind the backseat he has a single JL W7 in a 2 cubic foot box (net). There is a lot of space back there, so building a box big enough should be doable. He has his single 12 firing sideways toward the drivers side, along with the port firing the same direction. No, you can't hear him blocks away (which is kind of impossible unless you have way more subs and power) but you can definitely hear him pull up.
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Abuse, regular use..... tomato, toe-mah-toe
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17 hours ago, meade916 said:
So clean!
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2 hours ago, meade916 said:
I can't wait to see that done. I wish my mind had style like that
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2 hours ago, Robert Martin said:
Thanks!
Yessir
Cost wise on power wire?
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
Welding cable is technically fine. As long as it's pure copper, it's just not oxygen free copper. From what I've read, welding wire is more susceptible to corrosion than car audio cable, but I've never tested this myself. Welding wire does go by the AWG scale, and car audio cable is oversized, so if you need 1/0 awg car audio cable, 2/0 welding wire would be the same size and about the same amp rating.