Dafaseles

Not even close. It rained here for 2 weeks straight, so that slowed me down. Now, my friend asked me to build him an under the seat box for his truck. The problem is, it's for 2 10" Sundown SA Classics and he wants them down firing. They don't quite fit 🤣 so I have to do some fancy fandangling. You're a million times closer than me. Just get out there and hit it! You know it'll be worth it

Looks very good! Got the fitment in very nicely and tight! I'm jealous

By bass knob, do you mean the external "bass knob" that you mount near your seat? If that what you mean, then that thing all the way up. That's where it's supposed to be when seeing up the amp. If you mean the bass boost knob on the side of the amp, yeah, keep that thing to a minimum.

If I'm not mistaken, the smart 3 and the bass smart 3 are essentially the same thing, except the bass smart 3 is designed to work better with subwoofer applications than the original smart 3, being they are both full range amps.

Smart 3 line all the way. Though, me personally would spend a little extra and spring for a Sundown SIA 3500

Welding cable is technically fine. As long as it's pure copper, it's just not oxygen free copper. From what I've read, welding wire is more susceptible to corrosion than car audio cable, but I've never tested this myself. Welding wire does go by the AWG scale, and car audio cable is oversized, so if you need 1/0 awg car audio cable, 2/0 welding wire would be the same size and about the same amp rating.

It would be 400 watts total, but that says 400 watts max power. Can you find the RMS anywhere? That's the number you should be looking at. Also, what impedance are the voice coils? Is the subwoofer a dual 4 ohm? Dual 2 ohm?

I thought you where meaning actually welding on supports lol. Yeah, I'm going to deaden it, and also do an MDF beauty wall story of thing. I want to make it as seamless as possible. I have to figure out what to do with my amplifiers though. The original plan was to put them in the bed with the box. There's no room though. The box is huge! So I have to put them under my backseat, but I don't know if I'll even have room there everything. I'll figure something out. I'll post picts soon. I have to renew my subscription first. Just being lazy lol.

This thing is going to be so packed with water proofing, that'll probably be enough reinforcement lol. It's all pretty solid though, even with the hole. Maybe I should take it for a drive and see how it holds up. Still a lot further along than I am 🤣

I am lol. It's just slow going. I'm going to post pictures soon, but I have the box assembled, and hole cut in my cab for the port.

I didn't mean to be mean about my first comment. You just said the gain was 75% up. 9 times out of 10, when someone says that, it's because they don't know how to set their gain. What amplifier exactly is it if I might ask? Is your ground nice and tight? All the paint sanded off? Nice and clean? What final impedance are you wired to? Are all your connections nice and tight? Can you pull on all your ring terminals and they not come off the cable? The clip light on your amplifier won't measure the mechanical limits of your sub. So the clip light going off has nothing to do with that. It basically measures voltage and when it reaches a certain, predetermined voltage from the manufacturer, it lights up. An effective little tool, but not precise. Which is fine. If the clip light is blinking, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Play a song with heavy constant bass and see what it does. If it blinks every now and again, really quickly, I wouldn't worry. If it stays on for any period of time, then I'd worry, and I'd assume you'd need a second battery.

I just did a 2 15's 4th order wall in a GMC Terrain. I have a build thread on here on it. The electrical on that thing was an F'n nightmare!

Gain up 75% off the way up means nothing dude. How did you go about setting your gain? Are you just guessing? Do you know the max, clean signal volume you can go up to on your head unit? What amp is it? I say, buy a DD-1. They are expensive, but in my opinion they're the best as far as setting your gain. Too expensive? I get it. Go on Amazon and buy a decent oscilloscope to set your gain. Watch some YouTube videos on how to use it, then set your gain with that. Still no? OK, at least use a digital multimeter. Again, tons of videos on YouTube on how to set your gain with that.

Still very slowly. I wanted to get some actual progress done before I started posting on it again. The sub box is about half done. The doors.... well....I decided to junk the latest attempt and try again lol. So that's back to step 1. I'm still working on it, though I only get about 4 hours a week to actually get my hands dirty. I promise to update this build log once I get something done.

If you tune it with the bass down, then that's where it has to stay. You can't turn it up afterwards. Just keep that in mind.

You can do it yourself. The best way to do it would be to buy a DD-1. Though, I understand it's expensive. It really is the best and easiest way to set your gain and find what the max, undistorded volume of your head unit is. Second best way would be to purchase an oscilloscope. You can find them fairly inexpensive, and there are tons of tutorials on YouTube on how to set up your system with one. Our, you can always just go the digital multimeter route. Nothing wrong with that. Just you'd be setting up your system with the volume at ¾ the max, and hoping you're not getting any distortion. But it will definitely do the trick. Sorry for the long answer, but short answer, you can try lowering the gain. With the gain lower, when you turn up the volume, it should make it more fluid and less instant

It sounds to me like when your gain was set, the head unit volume was low. Did you set your gain? Or did a shop do it?

I think if you make sure your gain is set properly, I don't think you'll have any problems with that power. Just stay away from clipping and playing too much lower than the enclosures tuning, and you'll be fine

The first question I have to ask is can your vehicles electrical handle that kind of wattage. If it can, then I say run 2 amps. Buying another would be a lot cheaper than buying a new one to run all 4 at 2 ohm. I don't know how you set your gain on your amplifier, but just to run through your options, a DD-1/DD-1+ is the best way in my opinion. Though pricey, I know. Then gain match the 2 using a CC-1. Not everyone has access to those tools though. Second would be buying an oscilloscope. You can get them for not a lot of money nowadays. Nothing too fancy, just one that'll do what you need it to. Third, at least, use a digital multimeter. Then to gain match, just match the 2 output voltages of the amplifiers. No need to take it to a shop and pay them to do it if you don't have to.

In any case, whichever you decide to go with, you get what you pay for. A lot of time, choosing which company to go with is determined by things like customer service and warranties. Not just how the equipment performs. Just in case, you know? Sundown is expensive, but if you have a problem with any equipment, they're quick to help you out and get you back to slapping. Not saying you should go with Sundown, and I'm not saying inexpensive subs are crap either, I'm just saying there's usually a reason specific subs are cheap, and others aren't so much. My vote is still the SSD v4, but I'm biased because I run FI subs and love them lol.

You could look at the Avatar SST-3012D4 https://www.down4soundshop.com/avatar-sst-3012d4-12-subwoofer/ The Machete MF-12R D2 https://www.down4soundshop.com/machete-mf-12r-d2-12-inch-1200w-rms-subwoofer-dual-2-ohm/ The Hannibal HSS-3212 https://www.down4soundshop.com/hannibal-hss-3212-d2-12-subwoofer-1000w-rms/ The Apocalypse DB-SA2612D2 which I really like https://www.down4soundshop.com/apocalypse-db-sa2612d2-d2-ohm/ The Resilient Sounds Gold series I've heard really good things about https://skyhighcaraudio.com/gold-12-1000-rms-woofer/ The FI Xv3 subs are awesome https://ficaraudio.com/product/xv3-series/ Or, for a little bit more, you could get the FI SSD v4, which would be my personal favorite out of the whole list https://ficaraudio.com/product/ssdv4-series/

That thing is packed to the gills ready for anything!

How do the new subs sound compared to the DC?

Would something like this help? https://skyhighcaraudio.com/copy-of-sky-high-car-audio-6-flat-battery-terminals/ These are 8 spot, so to kind of big, but they make 4 spot and 6 spot as well. After installing the second battery, you could also run wiring from that battery as well, getting up some space

If the battery is going under the hood, just get one that fits in the spot well. If it's a secondary battery, just make sure it's the same chemistry as the battery under the hood. In car audio, we're mostly looking at amp hours (ah). So the higher the amp hours an AGM battery is, the better for what we use it for. How much wattage a battery can support depends greatly on the size of the alternator. 2 80 ah AGM batteries with a stock alternator can't compare to 2 80 ah AGM's on a 350 amp alternator.