Jump to content

Dafaseles

Members
  • Posts

    2386
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    138

Everything posted by Dafaseles

  1. It would be 400 watts total, but that says 400 watts max power. Can you find the RMS anywhere? That's the number you should be looking at. Also, what impedance are the voice coils? Is the subwoofer a dual 4 ohm? Dual 2 ohm?
  2. I thought you where meaning actually welding on supports lol. Yeah, I'm going to deaden it, and also do an MDF beauty wall story of thing. I want to make it as seamless as possible. I have to figure out what to do with my amplifiers though. The original plan was to put them in the bed with the box. There's no room though. The box is huge! So I have to put them under my backseat, but I don't know if I'll even have room there everything. I'll figure something out. I'll post picts soon. I have to renew my subscription first. Just being lazy lol.
  3. This thing is going to be so packed with water proofing, that'll probably be enough reinforcement lol. It's all pretty solid though, even with the hole. Maybe I should take it for a drive and see how it holds up. Still a lot further along than I am
  4. I am lol. It's just slow going. I'm going to post pictures soon, but I have the box assembled, and hole cut in my cab for the port.
  5. I didn't mean to be mean about my first comment. You just said the gain was 75% up. 9 times out of 10, when someone says that, it's because they don't know how to set their gain. What amplifier exactly is it if I might ask? Is your ground nice and tight? All the paint sanded off? Nice and clean? What final impedance are you wired to? Are all your connections nice and tight? Can you pull on all your ring terminals and they not come off the cable? The clip light on your amplifier won't measure the mechanical limits of your sub. So the clip light going off has nothing to do with that. It basically measures voltage and when it reaches a certain, predetermined voltage from the manufacturer, it lights up. An effective little tool, but not precise. Which is fine. If the clip light is blinking, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Play a song with heavy constant bass and see what it does. If it blinks every now and again, really quickly, I wouldn't worry. If it stays on for any period of time, then I'd worry, and I'd assume you'd need a second battery.
  6. I just did a 2 15's 4th order wall in a GMC Terrain. I have a build thread on here on it. The electrical on that thing was an F'n nightmare!
  7. Gain up 75% off the way up means nothing dude. How did you go about setting your gain? Are you just guessing? Do you know the max, clean signal volume you can go up to on your head unit? What amp is it? I say, buy a DD-1. They are expensive, but in my opinion they're the best as far as setting your gain. Too expensive? I get it. Go on Amazon and buy a decent oscilloscope to set your gain. Watch some YouTube videos on how to use it, then set your gain with that. Still no? OK, at least use a digital multimeter. Again, tons of videos on YouTube on how to set your gain with that.
  8. Still very slowly. I wanted to get some actual progress done before I started posting on it again. The sub box is about half done. The doors.... well....I decided to junk the latest attempt and try again lol. So that's back to step 1. I'm still working on it, though I only get about 4 hours a week to actually get my hands dirty. I promise to update this build log once I get something done.
  9. If you tune it with the bass down, then that's where it has to stay. You can't turn it up afterwards. Just keep that in mind.
  10. You can do it yourself. The best way to do it would be to buy a DD-1. Though, I understand it's expensive. It really is the best and easiest way to set your gain and find what the max, undistorded volume of your head unit is. Second best way would be to purchase an oscilloscope. You can find them fairly inexpensive, and there are tons of tutorials on YouTube on how to set up your system with one. Our, you can always just go the digital multimeter route. Nothing wrong with that. Just you'd be setting up your system with the volume at ¾ the max, and hoping you're not getting any distortion. But it will definitely do the trick. Sorry for the long answer, but short answer, you can try lowering the gain. With the gain lower, when you turn up the volume, it should make it more fluid and less instant
  11. It sounds to me like when your gain was set, the head unit volume was low. Did you set your gain? Or did a shop do it?
  12. I think if you make sure your gain is set properly, I don't think you'll have any problems with that power. Just stay away from clipping and playing too much lower than the enclosures tuning, and you'll be fine
  13. The first question I have to ask is can your vehicles electrical handle that kind of wattage. If it can, then I say run 2 amps. Buying another would be a lot cheaper than buying a new one to run all 4 at 2 ohm. I don't know how you set your gain on your amplifier, but just to run through your options, a DD-1/DD-1+ is the best way in my opinion. Though pricey, I know. Then gain match the 2 using a CC-1. Not everyone has access to those tools though. Second would be buying an oscilloscope. You can get them for not a lot of money nowadays. Nothing too fancy, just one that'll do what you need it to. Third, at least, use a digital multimeter. Then to gain match, just match the 2 output voltages of the amplifiers. No need to take it to a shop and pay them to do it if you don't have to.
  14. In any case, whichever you decide to go with, you get what you pay for. A lot of time, choosing which company to go with is determined by things like customer service and warranties. Not just how the equipment performs. Just in case, you know? Sundown is expensive, but if you have a problem with any equipment, they're quick to help you out and get you back to slapping. Not saying you should go with Sundown, and I'm not saying inexpensive subs are crap either, I'm just saying there's usually a reason specific subs are cheap, and others aren't so much. My vote is still the SSD v4, but I'm biased because I run FI subs and love them lol.
  15. You could look at the Avatar SST-3012D4 https://www.down4soundshop.com/avatar-sst-3012d4-12-subwoofer/ The Machete MF-12R D2 https://www.down4soundshop.com/machete-mf-12r-d2-12-inch-1200w-rms-subwoofer-dual-2-ohm/ The Hannibal HSS-3212 https://www.down4soundshop.com/hannibal-hss-3212-d2-12-subwoofer-1000w-rms/ The Apocalypse DB-SA2612D2 which I really like https://www.down4soundshop.com/apocalypse-db-sa2612d2-d2-ohm/ The Resilient Sounds Gold series I've heard really good things about https://skyhighcaraudio.com/gold-12-1000-rms-woofer/ The FI Xv3 subs are awesome https://ficaraudio.com/product/xv3-series/ Or, for a little bit more, you could get the FI SSD v4, which would be my personal favorite out of the whole list https://ficaraudio.com/product/ssdv4-series/
  16. Would something like this help? https://skyhighcaraudio.com/copy-of-sky-high-car-audio-6-flat-battery-terminals/ These are 8 spot, so to kind of big, but they make 4 spot and 6 spot as well. After installing the second battery, you could also run wiring from that battery as well, getting up some space
  17. If the battery is going under the hood, just get one that fits in the spot well. If it's a secondary battery, just make sure it's the same chemistry as the battery under the hood. In car audio, we're mostly looking at amp hours (ah). So the higher the amp hours an AGM battery is, the better for what we use it for. How much wattage a battery can support depends greatly on the size of the alternator. 2 80 ah AGM batteries with a stock alternator can't compare to 2 80 ah AGM's on a 350 amp alternator.
  18. I would first try switching around the RCA cables to different channels. See if the problem switches to a different speaker. Also, you could try just hooking up a junk speaker to that channel, and see if it still happens to that different speaker. Doing those little experiments might help narrow down the culprit.
  19. So, the OG's on here can/ will hopefully correct me if I'm wrong, and also can bring way more insight on this topic than I can. From what I've come to understand is... Most LTO banks, unless you're charging them around 15 volts, you're not effectively charging them as they need to be. LifePo4 banks like the charging voltage around 14 volts, but can handle as high as 14.7 volts. Everyone I've spoken to recommends going externally regulated when it comes to Lithium because of them wanting specific charging voltages. I personally would not mix LTO and AGM. Even with an isolator. I wouldn't mix LifePo4 and AGM either, but I've spoken to people who have, with mixed reviews. Hopefully, someone can come in and get more specific about the building and charging requirements needed for lithium. I'm still learning.
  20. I'm in San Lorenzo. I'm usually free on the weekends, so you need any help, hit me up
  21. Whaaaat! Crocodile? That's hella dope! Clean ass Magnum too. I always liked that car! I was going to say, if you live around the east bay, if you need any help building or installing anything, I live in the area.... but your ride is too clean for me to mess up lol. I do have a DD-1 and CC-1 if you ever need to tune an amplifier.
×
×
  • Create New...