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Dafaseles

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Everything posted by Dafaseles

  1. As far as the mids and highs go, I'd set the HPF at about 100 hz, and that's it. Set your gains with a DD-1 (best), an oscilloscope (good), or digital multimeter (better than nothing). There are videos on YouTube that will teach you how. I'm not going to tell you to get rid of the caps, but I've never had good luck with them. I would just keep the subs flush personally, but you can invert them and see which sound you like better. If you invert them, just make sure you wire them 180 degrees out of phase. I'm not quite following how you wired the subs. Are you connecting both subs to a single quick connect? Or does each woofer have its own?
  2. Makes it easy to upgrade anything though. Can't fault them for that lol
  3. I would say a smart 3 is too much for a single ZVX, but great for 2 12's. A single Avitar STU-1546 would handle that Smart 3. But I can't find them for sale. A single Deaf Bonce Apocalypse DB3515 will do the trick and cost about the same as 2 ZVX's. Maybe a little more. A single Incriminator Judge series 15 will do fine as well. And a single B2 Rage XL would fit the bill as well. Just depends is all. He'll probably be louder with 2 12's because of cone area. And all those brands have 1000-1500 watt 12" options as well. 4.5 cubic feet would probably better suit a single 15 though (and that's going off my limited knowledge of box design to be completely honest) if he wants a ported enclosure.
  4. Dodge has ridiculous stock alternators. I've seen a 65 amp alternator in a prius handle more wattage no problem. My stock alternator in my pickup, which is the same one he has, was pushing a little over 1000 watts back in the day. Granted, not clamped but total, but still.
  5. So, listening to those kinds of music, I would tune that sub at -5 db, or even 0. Things like decaf and bass mechanik, the bass is actually recorded at a 0 db level, while most regular music is recorded at -10. I think you'd be able to get away with -5 being that it's in a sealed enclosure and is getting maximum cone control. Set your settings at 0, set the gains, and then leave them at 0. If you set them with the settings all the way up, your setting your gains at max distortion with a bunch of filters. Then you get rid of those filters and your left with nothing. Everything flat or at 0. Set your gains, then of you ever feel like it, you can go -1 or below. But after you set your gains, Never add. Only subtract. If your head unit has a sub RCA out and a separate RCA for the highs, then no, your RCA's for the sub amp won't detect the 1khz tone because that time simply isn't going through those RCA's. For your sub amp, you only need the 40 hz track anyway because your sub will (should) never play higher than 80-100 hz (preferably 80 hz). If you do, you will damage the sub. Doing it the way you explained is ok. As long as there's no clipping being introduced to the system, it's fine. Though I would do like @Never Enough Basssaid and so the big 3 with 1/0 wire and see if that helps. The thing is, a 110 amp alternator on a v8 should be able to handle that amount of wattage. That's not a lot. The gain being up 3/4's shouldn't effect anything. I suspect there might be another problem. But do the big 3, and see if you can set the gains without doing all those work arounds. Did you watch a youtube video on how to check your voltage on your RCA's?
  6. Hopefully that's the case and it's an easy fix. That does look like a dope setup! Is the front of the box completely sealed off from the trunk?
  7. 6th orders are a whole different beast. If you're planning on doing a 6th order, I suggest you get all the modeling software you can, or pay someone to design it for you. Every piece of a 6th reacts with every other piece. They are very hard to get right
  8. I didn't know B2 had their own line of lithium batteries.... Anyway, even though you should have enough electrical, I would have a voltage meter inside the vehicle with me, taking voltage at the amplifier, to make sure the voltage isn't the issue. Other than that, I would check every single connection for anything possibly being loose. Battery terminals, fuse bolts, connections into the amp, everything. Does this only happen with the 8k? Or does it happen to your 4 channel as well? What impedance are you running at and have you double checked it with a multimeter since you've been having the problem?
  9. There's no need for that 6.5" sub first of all. That SA 12 will can handle all that frequency itself. That 6.5 would be pointless and just taking up space. And those measurements you listed, before sub displacement and a second wall displacement, that gives you 3.2 cubic feet total. Do you know how many cubic feet you want your sealed section to be? Do you know what frequency you'd want your ported side tuned to? (Usually for 4th orders it would be around 45 hz)
  10. You can change the shape without effecting tuning. As long as you keep the desired amount of square inches of port opening. The length of the port mostly determines the tuning frequencies
  11. The FS is an aid amongst other values in the T/S parameters that aid in the response a certain enclosure will give, but no, tuning to the exact Fs usually will not be the most absolute optimum tuning.
  12. Download WinsId on your computer. You can actually graph out a projected frequency response to certain criteria on a box. Then you can decide what you would like the most.
  13. Glad to see you back and still plugging away bud! I don't know if anyone else can, but I can't see your pics though.
  14. A coworker of mine has one in a sealed enclosure that's way too small. He's got it in the trunk of an accord. I'm going to slap it in a 6 cubic foot box tuned to 28 hz. I just need the driver displacement so I can draw up the box.
  15. Does anyone happen to know what the subwoofer displacement is for a 15" kicker L7S is? I can't find it anywhere.
  16. Using your crossovers on your head unit are fine, just remember, if your battery dies for some reason, check and make sure the head unit remembers them, or you could really damage your equipment. The slope is really a personal preference when blending the subwoofer, to the mids, to the highs. If you had some sort of RTA and microphone to show you a frequency response graph, you could manually tweak it to sound exactly the way you want. If you like the sound, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I would just leave those at 0. But again, personal preference. As long as you're not clipping. Play with your high pass and low pass filters and see what you like best. A CC-1 is a great tool that can help you set your crossovers exactly where you want them as well.
  17. Got those machines humming! Stay busy Steve! Audio Control for the win..... as if we didn't know! Thanks for the video! P.s. sorry about your loss dude. It never gets easy. Dogs are members of the family, and just as important, at least they are to me, and it seems that same way with you and your family. Condolences man.
  18. Those volt meters on the bass knobs will work. I prefer a mounted one just for ease of being able to see it. There are a lot of RCA bass knobs out there. You just have to know where to look, but then again, a SHCA bass knob are high quality, so why keep looking lol. I'm not trying to steer you in any particular way, you know what you like, but off it where me, I'd use the bass knob that came with the smart 3 and an in dash volt meter. The smart 3 bass knob has a clip light. So you know of you're clipping or not. Comes in handy. The SMD VM-1 is the best volt meter I know of. It detects quick drops that other volt meters don't pick up. They're kind of on the expensive side, but worth it. If you're on a budget, I've heard nothing but good things about the blue Stinger volt meter. I think those are something like $20. But again, the SHCA bass knob/ volt meter will absolutely work.
  19. I can't help you with the box. I had mine designed by a professional (4 12" FI Q's but with the neo motors). I can't figure out the designing software to save my butt Some things I do know though..... A lot of times, when someone isn't getting the output they think they should be, it could be a simple as box placement. You want the port to be firing or loading off another surface before it hits you. Also, I don't think your electrical is up for the challenge. I would purchase an in dash volt meter, so you can monitor the voltage at the amp. Usually, people with those smart 3's, I've seen have an upgraded alt and 2 AGM's. Or one lithium. I've also read horror stories about people with the Ford trucks with the aluminum bodies and the electrical acting up.... but I think yours is older than all that. As far as the head unit, pioneer are good decks, but off the top of my head, I don't think they have an analog type volume control. Kenwood makes some good ones as well, with a dial volume control. What I did was I bought an Audio Control Three.2. Along with having a master, analog style volume knob, it has a bunch of other cool features as well. My advise, I know it's not necessarily economical, but I'd ditch the backseat, go subs and port up.
  20. I do the same thing. Just keep plugging away on what you can of you're waiting for pieces. No use waiting and not doing anything
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