Dafaseles

Bro, I don't care what equipment you're using. If you're happy, I'm happy. All I care about is that you're not clipping your subs to death so your equipment will last. Things are expensive, and I want your equipment to last. Also, I'm interested in what you've said about there power acoustics amps maybe needing the knob and not functioning properly without it. Maybe you can turn a couple opinions around. I'm still looking into finding a cheap, decent oscilloscope and a clamp. I've been busting my ass all day on my build lol. Give me a little bit brother.

That's some good BMW knowledge right there! I would have been puzzled!

Well, in my opinion, walls tend to move more air than a regular fourth order, but a fourth order wall, you'll get more lows. Head unit, I've never had a problem with my pioneer, though I've heard kenwood and alpine are great as well. Subs, you know the deal I'm sure. There are a ton of great subs out there. If you plan on a fourth order, try to find a sub with a QTS higher than .5, if you're going to go straight up ported wall, a QTS lower than .5 is optimal. As far as the electrical, I don't know much about super caps. I do know lithium and lithium banks do great, though I d

You can prove it. All you need is an oscilloscope and a clamp multimeter. An oscilloscope to prove the signal isn't clipping and a clamp (and a little mathematical equation) to see how many watts you're feeding your subs.

All headlights dim unfortunately. Some just dim less than others. You have plenty of electrical for that setup. One way to combat the lights dimming is to go LED. They just use less electrical when in use. You could run more electrical, but unfortunately, your lights would still dim. It's just one of those things

So you set your gains once using that mathematical equation without the bass knob and it was disappointing. Then you started over from step one with the bass knob connected and turned all the way up and you goin a ton more output? The huge thing is that you completely started over from square one after you pluged the knob in and it was turned all the way up before you started. If you didn't start all the way over, you could be feeding the amp too much and clipping. The thing about using a multimeter is yeah, the math supports the output to be converted into watts. But what if your

Put this in the showing off members rides and do a build log. Seems like it's going go be cool as hell!

Gain isn't a volume control. Gain is there to match the voltage the amplifier sees from the head unit. If a person has the gain set too low, yes, there is a definite decrease in output. If a person sets the gain too high, you are introducing distortion and clipping into the system. It might sound louder because of the added distortion, but that's going to ruin a subwoofer. The only ways to truly, 100% know if you're gain is set properly is with an oscilloscope or a distortion detector. You can get close with a digital multimeter, but I'm talking about with 100% certainty. That being said

Hella dope!

I'm not even going to get into what mine has cost so far

I was just going to say what jakew said... that Bamf 5000, I would be surprised if you're even getting a true 1200 watts out of that thing. The Bamf 8000... I'd bet a paycheck it doesn't even do 2000 watts in reality. All power acoustic amps are known for over rating their power significantly. Just go to YouTube, type in "BAMF amplifier dyno", watch a couple videos and you'll see what we mean. That being said, car audio is expensive. I get that. You have to start somewhere, and if you catch the bug (like it seems you have) you upgrade. In my opinion, there's no reason to upgrade to

I personally would save up for a better amp, more electrical, and have someone design me a box specifically for those subs and I'd build it. but if that's the direction you want to go, go for it. Nothing wrong with upgrading. That's a big part of the fun

You want to run 18's and 12's at the same time? That's a big no from me dog. Your going to have tons of sound quality issues if you run them at the same crossover frequency (it off phase cancellation, blending issues, air issues) and if you run them on different crossover frequencies..... well there's just no point in that. Whatever the 18's can do, the 12's can also do and vice versa

Just to add to this....(everything @1point21gigawattsis 100% accurate) Yes, the salt 4 amps only have a single 1/0 space for your ground and positive, but a good idea would be to go ahead and invest in dual 1/0 to single 1/0 amp input reducers. I bought 4 for my 2 salt 4 amps!

Do it. Plenty of videos on YouTube to show you how boss. It's good for your system and for your vehicle