Jump to content

Dafaseles

Members
  • Posts

    2376
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    138

Dafaseles last won the day on July 23

Dafaseles had the most liked content!

About Dafaseles

  • Birthday 09/28/1982

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    510
  • Interests
    Car audio

Recent Profile Visitors

3536 profile views

Dafaseles's Achievements

Veteran

Veteran (13/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Posting Machine Rare

Recent Badges

853

Reputation

  1. You can do it yourself. The best way to do it would be to buy a DD-1. Though, I understand it's expensive. It really is the best and easiest way to set your gain and find what the max, undistorded volume of your head unit is. Second best way would be to purchase an oscilloscope. You can find them fairly inexpensive, and there are tons of tutorials on YouTube on how to set up your system with one. Our, you can always just go the digital multimeter route. Nothing wrong with that. Just you'd be setting up your system with the volume at ¾ the max, and hoping you're not getting any distortion. But it will definitely do the trick. Sorry for the long answer, but short answer, you can try lowering the gain. With the gain lower, when you turn up the volume, it should make it more fluid and less instant
  2. It sounds to me like when your gain was set, the head unit volume was low. Did you set your gain? Or did a shop do it?
  3. I think if you make sure your gain is set properly, I don't think you'll have any problems with that power. Just stay away from clipping and playing too much lower than the enclosures tuning, and you'll be fine
  4. The first question I have to ask is can your vehicles electrical handle that kind of wattage. If it can, then I say run 2 amps. Buying another would be a lot cheaper than buying a new one to run all 4 at 2 ohm. I don't know how you set your gain on your amplifier, but just to run through your options, a DD-1/DD-1+ is the best way in my opinion. Though pricey, I know. Then gain match the 2 using a CC-1. Not everyone has access to those tools though. Second would be buying an oscilloscope. You can get them for not a lot of money nowadays. Nothing too fancy, just one that'll do what you need it to. Third, at least, use a digital multimeter. Then to gain match, just match the 2 output voltages of the amplifiers. No need to take it to a shop and pay them to do it if you don't have to.
  5. In any case, whichever you decide to go with, you get what you pay for. A lot of time, choosing which company to go with is determined by things like customer service and warranties. Not just how the equipment performs. Just in case, you know? Sundown is expensive, but if you have a problem with any equipment, they're quick to help you out and get you back to slapping. Not saying you should go with Sundown, and I'm not saying inexpensive subs are crap either, I'm just saying there's usually a reason specific subs are cheap, and others aren't so much. My vote is still the SSD v4, but I'm biased because I run FI subs and love them lol.
  6. You could look at the Avatar SST-3012D4 https://www.down4soundshop.com/avatar-sst-3012d4-12-subwoofer/ The Machete MF-12R D2 https://www.down4soundshop.com/machete-mf-12r-d2-12-inch-1200w-rms-subwoofer-dual-2-ohm/ The Hannibal HSS-3212 https://www.down4soundshop.com/hannibal-hss-3212-d2-12-subwoofer-1000w-rms/ The Apocalypse DB-SA2612D2 which I really like https://www.down4soundshop.com/apocalypse-db-sa2612d2-d2-ohm/ The Resilient Sounds Gold series I've heard really good things about https://skyhighcaraudio.com/gold-12-1000-rms-woofer/ The FI Xv3 subs are awesome https://ficaraudio.com/product/xv3-series/ Or, for a little bit more, you could get the FI SSD v4, which would be my personal favorite out of the whole list https://ficaraudio.com/product/ssdv4-series/
  7. Would something like this help? https://skyhighcaraudio.com/copy-of-sky-high-car-audio-6-flat-battery-terminals/ These are 8 spot, so to kind of big, but they make 4 spot and 6 spot as well. After installing the second battery, you could also run wiring from that battery as well, getting up some space
  8. If the battery is going under the hood, just get one that fits in the spot well. If it's a secondary battery, just make sure it's the same chemistry as the battery under the hood. In car audio, we're mostly looking at amp hours (ah). So the higher the amp hours an AGM battery is, the better for what we use it for. How much wattage a battery can support depends greatly on the size of the alternator. 2 80 ah AGM batteries with a stock alternator can't compare to 2 80 ah AGM's on a 350 amp alternator.
  9. I would first try switching around the RCA cables to different channels. See if the problem switches to a different speaker. Also, you could try just hooking up a junk speaker to that channel, and see if it still happens to that different speaker. Doing those little experiments might help narrow down the culprit.
  10. So, the OG's on here can/ will hopefully correct me if I'm wrong, and also can bring way more insight on this topic than I can. From what I've come to understand is... Most LTO banks, unless you're charging them around 15 volts, you're not effectively charging them as they need to be. LifePo4 banks like the charging voltage around 14 volts, but can handle as high as 14.7 volts. Everyone I've spoken to recommends going externally regulated when it comes to Lithium because of them wanting specific charging voltages. I personally would not mix LTO and AGM. Even with an isolator. I wouldn't mix LifePo4 and AGM either, but I've spoken to people who have, with mixed reviews. Hopefully, someone can come in and get more specific about the building and charging requirements needed for lithium. I'm still learning.
  11. I'm in San Lorenzo. I'm usually free on the weekends, so you need any help, hit me up
×
×
  • Create New...