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About Dafaseles

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  • Birthday 09/28/1982

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  1. I'm going with 4 runs of 1/0 over 3 runs of 2/0. Both equal to about 1200 amps of current, but the 4 runs of 1/0 turned out to be less expensive than the footage of 2/0 needed for 3 runs. So yeah, there's that
  2. As long as you fuse to the rating of the wire, it won't cause a problem
  3. It might depend on the manufacturer. I'm going to be running amps with dual positive and negative inputs that suggest 400a fuses. But when asked, the manufacturer actually said if you're running 2 separate positions, then 200a each 1/0 cable is good. I guess maybe if you where running 1 cable through a fuse, then to an unfused distribution block, then they recommend the 400a. But different manufacturers might have a different meaning.
  4. Does it tend to go up in frequency or down? Or is it just one of those things that you can't predict? The speaker is going to do whatever or wants to type situation.
  5. I'm wondering if anyone knows of any midrange or midbass drivers (preferably 8", but 6.5" is still on the table) with a Fs of 40 or below at 4 ohm? Or maybe I'm putting too much emphasis in the resonate frequency as it pertains sound quality and where you end up setting your crossovers? Still trying to learn as much as possible. Figured I'd ask
  6. I don't think it's going to be a huge difference, but I don't think that's what you want anyway. I would take into account how your existing mids and highs keep up with the 10's. If you add a little output with the 12's and the bigger box, is it going to drown out the rest of the music? Then you might have to look into upgrading those, opening a can of worms it sounds like you don't want to deal with within this truck. Just my opinion, but if you think your mids and highs will keep up, then I would do it. I don't think it'll be a huge, drastic change in volume, I mean you won't be shattering windows, but the db's will go up noticeably.
  7. I would upgrade to 2 12's that where 1000 watt rms each...... push them with that 1000 watt amp.... and use that as an excuse to start beefing up your electrical for more upgrades/ bigger amps .... or just upgrade to 2 12's that will work with that amp
  8. The Memphis VIV with the 7.5" voice coil is a 2 ohm sub and rated at 2,200 rms. Nowhere near that of the Pride. I haven't really been able to find any information on the VIV other than what Memphis has on their website
  9. Not that it's even close to the same class as a Pride sub, (dumb ass monster subs!) But I just thought it was interesting that the Memphis Audio VIV 14" sub has a 7.5" dual layer voice coil. That's huge! Still not coming even remotely close to the muscle of the Pride, I just thought that was interesting
  10. So, I had taken my truck into a family friend's mechanic shop to check my batteries and diagnose an electrical leech in my truck if there was one. So, both Stinger SPP1500DC's are gone. I was hoping at least once was still good, but no. Also, the leech is my alarm. I have an old Viper that was installed in 2014 I think. I forget which one it is, but it's got an app that shows you on a map where the truck is, and you can set up alerts. Stuff like that. Anyway..... I don't think with the truck off it should be pulling almost 200 milliamps by itself. I don't know jack about alarms, so I'll have to find a good stereo shop to take it to. Probably just have them rip it out and install a new one. As far as the batteries go, I'm planning on buying another Stinger SPP1500DC for under the hood (I already have the battery tender for that battery. It was expensive) and 2 Full Throttle 1150's for the back. I know there's probably better voltage solutions than 3 AGM batteries, but I don't know enough about lithium or super caps to feel comfortable installing those in this build. Maybe further down the road as I learn more.
  11. Hopefully those DC's will last longer than those mesos....I would see that as a win
  12. So I'm trying to decide what midrange speakers I want to go with, but I'm confused about a couple things I've been noticing. First, why does it seem like the less expensive speakers have a range of lets say 70hz to something like 5000 khz, then the more expensive speakers range from about 100-120hz to whatever the high end might be. On top of that, if you read the owner's manual for some of these speakers that the range starts below 100 hz, they still recommend you set the high pass filter at usually 125 hz, some recommend 100 hz. Checking on some different subwoofers, they want those filters set at 80 hz. So where am I supposed to get 81 hz through 124 hz? Is that something we say screw it and set the high pass filter at 78 hz? And with the more expensive speakers, why does the range not go as low as less expensive speakers? Would I still just set the high pass filter where I needed it and not pay attention to the range and recommended HPF setting? I've searched the internet for answers and can't find what I'm looking for. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  13. I actually ended up buying 300' of full tilt audio 1/0 tinged ofc. I'm going to do 4 runs of that. Full tilt was running a sale. I did the math and figured "I need 300'....4 50' rolls..... wow! That's cheap! I'm in!" Then later, while making dinner, I realized my 100' mistake lol. Thought I was saving money.... ended up spending $200 more than if I bought the gp power cable. I felt like a dumbass lol. But that's one step closer to getting my truck done regardless
  14. Got my power wire. 300' of Full Tilt Audio 1/0 tinged ofc and a butt load of o- rings and heat shrink. I kind of screwed up on my quest to get the best deal on equipment without cutting too many corners. Full Tilt was having a sale on their wire. So I did the math. Ok,I need 300'.... holy crap! 4 rolls of 50' is $200 cheaper than even using welding wire! I've got to jump on this! Later, while cooking dinner, I realized....4 50'rolls..... damnit! That's only 200'. I had to order 2 more rolls. It ended up being $200 more than even using SHCA wire. Oh well. It's here. And if you believe what you read on social media, apparently someone did a 3rd party conductivity test of a bunch of different 1/0 brands and Full Tilt came in second behind JY wire. Even if it's not true, it'll still work. I'm just excited to be one step closer to getting this system in the truck
  15. Fuses can handle a lot more amps than they're rated for for short periods of time. If you're listening to music, the draw might exceed 80 amps, but not constantly, so the fuse is able to handle it. Or it's a bad fuse and won't pop before frying the wire.... but I'd put my money on the first reason
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