Dafaseles

What kind if amp do you have? Some things to mention that I'm sure you're aware of are that you can't just run any battery. You have to run batteries specifically made to take a massive charge like that. Also, you'd have to learn about step downs. How they work and how to wire them. Being an older car I would think running too much voltage would be even more dangerous because you wouldn't have any safety sensors to tell you something it's wrong before it's too late. And lastly, test everything before you call it good. Who knows how your vehicle and your equipment is going to react. Test

Some alternator companies to look into that do good work and will usually make one for an "odd" car are JS, Brand X, and Autotech engineering. Check them out and see what you can get. My opinion would be to completely ditch the cap. They don't ever seem to work well. A decent alternator and a good lithium battery and you'd have plenty of juice. Limitless, XS, JY Power, and CES make lithium that are respected. Can't go wrong with those. Or if you want to build your own, on the FI website, they have good Ying Long cells for sale and LAF Fabrication makes cool holders and wraps for them.

If you add maybe a 270-320 amp high output alternator from a reputable company, then you probably wouldn't even need the second battery. Whichever rout you want to go. To install the second battery, you would just need 2 runs of 1/0 from the front battery positive to the back battery positive. You can also do the same for the grounds, or just ground the front normal and then ground the back battery to the frame. You'll also want to fuse the runs. 1/0 OFC is good to about 350 amps, so you'd fuse each run with a 350 amp fuse as close to each battery as possible. (So a total of 4 350a fuses

Trying to keep this whole thing as inexpensive and simple as possible, I think at the very bare minimum, if you're going to keep the stock alternator, get another yellow top. That's not a crazy amount of wattage, I think that alternator and 2 yellow tops should be able to keep up (about 75% sure). Get a cheap voltmeter so you can monitor the voltage (even just a super cheapo cigarette lighter one is better than nothing) and make sure it doesn't drop too much. If it can't keep up, if you can find a good alternator shop in your area, sometimes they can rebuild it to put out a little more power a

I wouldn't eventually get around to doing the big 3. I'd do that before anything. Under powering an amplifier can lead to the amp burning out and/ or blowing your subs because of clipping. Because you're trying to do this with a single yellow top and a stick alternator, the big 3 is huge. Do you know how much your stock alternator is putting out?

The rage is also their entry level component. Their reference series 3 ways look beast! But expensive! Though you get what you pay for. I'll tell you what, my Memphis VIV compliments are the best I've heard so far in my opinion. They are also expensive as all hell lol

Why give it to mechman? There's your million dollar idea bro!

I'm no expert on the topic, but when I started thinking about my upgrade, I stressed over this a little as well. I decided to go sealed, but I'm running a 2 way system so my 8's will be mid bass and mid range. I don't have any concrete evidence on why I think sealed will be better for my application, honestly it's a 100% guess. Here's how I see it. The concrete evidence is there with subwoofer enclosures. Ported is there to peak around a certain level. Where it peaks alters the response curve around that peak. A sealed enclosure has more of a flat response, but you lose some output at ce

So, this isn't something I've tested myself, only have heard second hand, but apparently some passive crossovers will actually kick in a little more at high volumes to maybe compensate for what they might lack, or protect lower wattage tweeters (I think the RMS on those tweeters is actually only 30 watts) so that could be it. There was a member on here not to long ago, maybe a month ago, saying something similar about his B2 components. Basically saying they leave something to be desired as far as sound quality goes. I don't have an opinion because I've never actually heard them. I

I actually just had this LTO/LifePo4 conversation with a friend last night ( @1point21gigawatts). So, neither is necessarily "better". Just different. If I understood him correctly, LTO had a higher resting voltage than the Lifepo4 and is safer to use. Though you need more amp hours in LTO to accomplish your goals. Not a huge deal. Lifepo4 has a lower resting voltage so they work better with AGM. Though like you said, those XS batteries state they work with AGM just fine. One thing I thought was cool was I was looking at the JY Power HP-40 and they have a reference chart. It's a 40 ah Li

Unfortunately, they're right. It's normal. My mechman does it as well. The only way I know of to mitigate this is to externally regulate the alt. And yes, depending on how much "abuse" the alternator takes from heat, it can reduce the lifespan a little bit, too a lot a bit. One thing to add is, I've read that some vehicles will drop the alt output when hot, but once you turn on the lights, or AC fan, or some sort of particular electrical component, it'll jump back up to 14.7. I don't know if you're vehicle will do that. Just figured I'd add that little nugget.

There's a video on his Cadillac where he talks about how he bypassed the factory harness so the battery light turned off as well. Yeah, please keep me updated. I'm very interested in the solution

I don't see how the vehicle knows the size of the pulley. I'm assuming the truck sees a variation in amperage that is considerably more than it's been programmed to see and it's confused. So, I know it's a Chevy, but this is what I'm doing, I'm not running 2 batteries, I'm running lithium in the back, so I refer to the battery delete spot as the front battery, and the lithium, the rear battery. Because of the RVC, I have to do a ground connection as well as a positive connection. I don't have anything grounded to the frame. I will have all my amplifiers grounded to the rear battery. Bec

I don't know if mine does it, it never has, or I've never noticed it. I look at it as a precision tool so I am extremely careful. I've always been taught a bent level helps no one. It doesn't sound like you'd be the person to drop it or throw it around though. This might sound stupid, but it's work so many other times with the DD1's and CC1's. Change the battery to a brand new Energizer. If that doesn't help, yeah, maybe it's out of calibration. Who knows what happened to it during shipping

I wouldn't run lithium and an AGM. They will leach off each other and ruin the lifespan of expensive batteries. That being said, people have done it. I think those new XS lithium batteries are made to go along with AGM's. Check those out. I wouldn't think you'd need much. Maybe 15 ah. 30 ah to be on the safe side