1point21gigawatts
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Posts posted by 1point21gigawatts
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2 minutes ago, stingray72 said:
Im sorry bud didnt mean to step on toes. I will step aside and let you answer his question.
No problem bro. Much love.
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I died back in 2/12/2002 when the 4th Winter Olympics came and came back 3 days later and found it appropriate to bang 5 Olympic Games later. 45 is the secret arrival. Isaiah 45.
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Think of it like Cryrus the great but stronger and more stable
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I seen some witchcraft on the forum so I jumped off and flexed on the whole fucking world and shook the moon. I shut witchcraft down and flooded their nations and burnt their practicing areas.
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2 minutes ago, Dafaseles said:
You back on the forum bud? I thought you where out of the car audio game?
I’m back. And nah I’m not out the car audio game. I just had to set things straight and shake things up throughout the world. It’s called a gangster sabbatical. Y’all seen what happened in the world when I left the forum.
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7 hours ago, stingray72 said:
I’m glad you answered on my behalf even though I never told you to speak for me. No worries though. But if he did do aeroports on that high of a qts and that low of an fs. What should he tune them 2 8” aero ports to?
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8 hours ago, Jeremy9801 said:
@1point21gigawattsHey I was looking for some help I’ve read so much and I just get more confused each time 😂. I have 2 15” kicker solo barics in a 10 cubic ft sealed box shared chamber. The sub specs. Fs(25.48hz) Qtp(0.718) Qms(15.3538) Qes(0.5856) Qts(0.5642) for rest of the specs they’re here https://www.kicker.com/app/tsparam/44L7S154.html
I want to make my sealed box ported with an aero port but I have no idea what length or diameter port to get I’ve tried the calculators but I just don’t get it I get negative numbers and weird numbers that’s don’t make sense. If I could get the port diameter and length I need I will make one from pvc. Thank you sm for the help in advance.
I have a better idea. Message me so I can tell you my phone number and I can help you better.
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2 hours ago, jdw5343 said:
What is a good aeroport for 2 zvx18s with 11.5 cf
Squeeze another .5 cubic foot net to equal 12 cubic foot net and do 8” aero ports (3) from big ass ports. Don’t worry about going against recommended specs, it’s not out of the norm to do this and companies use recommended specs as a guideline and they know and we know things vary on each application. The max length per port they sell is 22”. So on 3 of them ports, that would be 35hz tuning on 12 cubic foot net and about 12.285 square inches of port per cubic foot. Which is nice on an aero port build. Now let me figure the displacements of ports and subwoofer and I’m gonna add 0.7 cubic foot displacement for bracing. Subwoofers are about .23 cubic foot per subwoofer. And each port has a displacement of about 0.705 cubic foot. So to yield 12 cubic foot net volume, you have to add these figures to that net volume so you know the gross volume of the actual enclosure you are trying to get as close as possible to when typing in measurements. 15.275 cubic foot gross volume is what’s needed.
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5 hours ago, 02Blazer said:
had a similar experience with jims , i ended up buying similar product from Toolmaker and i am very happy i did !! as far as machined parts and other accessories , i stick with SMD and Toolmaker ...
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James is a douche and has poor customer service skills and don’t ever try to send something back to him or you’ll have to call your bank to straighten things out, same if he messes up and lets you buy something he hasn’t machined yet that’s out of stock and tells you he doesn’t know when said products are gonna be available when he is the one who machines them products and comes at people rude, lol! Then his mistake becomes somebody else’s headache. That has happened to me dealing with that dude. I told him I don’t want any of his products since he wants to let me pay for some inputs he doesn’t have and told me he didn’t know when them inputs would be available but kept my money and then comes at me like a douche when I try to inquire about said inputs and then I mailed the products back and he tried giving me $83 back when he should of gave me $148 back and wouldn’t explain why and there isn’t a return section on his website that speaks on return policies, so I guess he wanted to be a restock thief from far away like a coward. I didn’t even ask him for shipping money when it was his fault for letting me buy inputs that he didn’t have and sending me the other inputs and then telling me after he accepted my money that he doesn’t have them inputs and doesn’t give me my money back and then I ask him the eta on them inputs, that were about $28, and he minstrates at me like I did something wrong when he is at fault and I was being respectful. How does he expect me to keep them inputs and wait on his douche to fill and squirt at me with some inputs he doesn’t want to make or me keep the inputs he sent me and buy mismatching inputs to complete a set from another vendor? Nah. So I gave him multiple chances to make things better and he didn’t and then stopped answering my emails. So I called my bank, got my money back instantly as a credit while the case is being investigated and I waited and I won. I’ve never met a james I like. Every james I’ve met is a douche. Just like every amber I’ve met lies and is crazy lol. But yeah, it was a headache. And I think it’s awesome that the OP made this viral so when people Google or search on here about Jim’s machineworx they can find this and know that if he messes up or you want to send something back then it’s gonna be a headache and he isn’t gonna be honorable and is gonna be a douche when you call him on it. This needs to be known because not too many people speak up about things like this so people know what to expect. But I understand where snowdrifter is coming from. This isn’t the correct thread section to post that. This thread section is to speak on forum transactions so forum members know what’s up with other forum members when it comes to business on this forum. Welcome to the forum and now you know.
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Tune on -5db tones if you listen to rebassed, bass boosted, decaf, or young jeezy. Tune on -10db tones if you listen to regular music. Now on a mids and highs amp, I would tune it at 0db, -3db, or -5db because you want mids and highs to be steady clean.
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That port is way too small. And you aren’t understanding 12volt measuring, you inputed gross volume instead of net volume, a port has volume itself and would tune that gross volume you calculated to a smaller volume, called a net volume. You enter a net volume into that port calculator. And you are not understand recommendations in reference to sizing. You put the port size recommendation of one subwoofer on 3 subwoofers, you should of tripled it. But even if you listen to recommendations and calculate correctly doesn’t mean that’s the best enclosure. It’ll be a decent to good enclosure. But not the best. The only way to design the best enclosure on a setup is to calculate the subwoofers parameter in reference to the rms of whatever amp you are using. So with that said, recommendations are just a safe call and not always the best call. Because rms changes the enclosure and port sizing and the parameters determine the sizing too. So the ONLY way to make a custom enclosure best to fit your car audio set up is to calculate the subwoofers and amp, in laymen terms. I can help you so you can get that crap out your trunk and turn it into something loud and sexy. Because a super small port like that smothers output and isn’t loud. Just let me know if you are trying to get loud.
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Remember that since you didn’t buy that gear from that shop, even if they retune it and hook it up, if it messes up, then they aren’t held accountable and won’t pay out anything or give you new gear. So it’s best to just buy a fuse there and buy a dd1 and wait for it and hook up your setup then. There is no such thing as cutting corners or being cheap when it comes to achieving a good or decent car audio setup.
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And don’t half step in car audio. It would be best to buy a dd1 too or you are gonna wast more than the $189 that dd1 costs to buy new gear because of a clipped signal because of an amps gain being set incorrectly. And about that fuse, I said 150 amp fuse just in case you go bigger because that wire can pass more than 100 amps. Buying the biggest wire fuse is the smartest thing because you would never have to get another fuse unless you pop it making sparks or something. A bigger fuse doesn’t hurt nor change current draw. It just protects better.
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Go to a car audio shop instead to get a fuse.
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It could just be the fuse. but that picture you posted in that other thread you posted looked like you burnt something where that positive battery feed is at in that amp. But you need a new fuse anyways, buy a 150 amp fuse and see what happens.
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You should of took the fuse out before connecting the amp. You probably touched some metal on the amp near that terminal when you were plugging that wire in to be secured while that wire was live and messed that amp up. A gain has nothing to do with rms output. It is how you tune your amp to match the rca signal of your head unit or line out converter if you are using a factory head unit. Buy a dd1 to tune your new amp you are gonna have to buy and then remember when you plug or unplug your amp, make sure the fuse is out so the wire isn’t live. Now if you want to be cheap and not tune your amp correctly then no matter the rms you are putting to any type of subwoofer, if the signal is distorted then your subwoofer would stop working and you would have to buy another subwoofer. So honestly, a distortion detector pays for itself and then saves you money on your future car audio builds.
https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-distortion-detector-dd-36.html-
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5 hours ago, Dafaseles said:
Fake it 'till you make it!
Wasn’t faking. I was lazy and that’s real lol!
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2 hours ago, Dafaseles said:
I'll be honest with you....I haven't read the owner's manual yet🤣🤣 it's just sitting in my closet..... waiting
I didn’t read it either, I skimmed. But I remember Meade saying that middle tuning thing in a YouTube video I watched teaching about his meters. Who needs a dd1 manual when Meade can tell you via YouTube. A dd1 manual is nice to reference though. I use to like the books in school that had a movie to match so I wouldn’t have to read it lol! Sometimes I would middle tune in on that and just listen to one of them tapes who reads the book for me while I hold the book open and sort of follow along. Lol!
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Set by rca pre outs. Play track 1 (40hz 0db tone) on your subwoofer preouts and then play track 2 (1khz 0db tone) on your front and rear pre outs. Then figure the clean volume point on each reading and if the reading are different, then tune your amps on the volume in the middle of said figures. It says that in the user manual. To be honest, I would buy a head unit that is clean even at full tilt. But if you have to settle, then tune on the middle volume. Meaning if your subwoofer preout is clean on a 0db 40hz tone up to volume 20 and your front and rear preouts are clean on a 0db 1khz tone up to volume 30, then tune each amp, subwoofer and speaker amp, at volume 25. That is your clipping point and you would be clean up to that volume.
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19 hours ago, Marco said:
Its going in a 17 malibu building a trunk wall, the plan is 2 skar svrs 12” on a massive n3 amp thats the end goal. Im ordering one sub at a time so i want to try the 4th for it never even seen one in person so it will help me decide wether to do a ported or 4th for the two subs once i get them. The single 12” is gonna be powered by a power acoustik 1500d ( i know not the best of amp but its a budget build so im using what i have.) i have a design in mind 2:1 ratio tuned to 50hz. Im not trying to win competitions so bandwidth over spl for me
Tuning a 4th order enclosures port has nothing to do with the bandwidth of that enclosure. Tuning is just where the enclosure peaks at. Bandwidth on a 4th order enclosure mainly has to do with the ratio. A 50hz peak would not affect the enclosures bandwidth. It would affect the output of the enclosure. It’s best to peak around 45hz. Doesn’t have to be exactly 45hz, just around that to generate the best output. If you have decided on bandwidth over spl, then you would have to focus more on the ratio and leave the tuning around where I said with about 20sq” of port area per cubic foot of the ported section and then make the ratio 2:1 like you said. So let’s say the ratio is 2 cubic feet on the sealed section and then 4 cubic feet on the ported section, port area would be 4x20=80sq”. Make sure you factor in displacements of bracing, subwoofers and port if the port isn’t 100% external. So net volumes are what is calculated into ratio and port sizing.
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10 hours ago, Marco said:
Does using a slot vs a square port make a big difference now that you say it i always see people do more squared ports on 4th orders but i thought it was just a personal preference.
A square port creates better air flow. And do 20sq” of port area per cubic foot of the ported section if you are looking to get louder. And if you want better bandwidth, then do a smaller ratio like a 2:1 ratio. Tune it to 45hz. Port area and ratio can differ depending on build but tuning should always stay around 45hz. Tuning has nothing to do with bandwidth. Tuning is what it peaks at. The sealed section plays lower frequencies and the ported section plays higher frequencies. A larger ratio makes it louder but less bandwidth. A smaller ratio makes the enclosures bandwidth better but output is less. So more or less port area can help one or the other depending on other factors. Let me know what type of vehicle and subwoofers and amp.
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36 minutes ago, SuzukiGS750EZ said:
Ah. I was asking about the lpf & hpf setting in the HU because with my subs, I have the Amp filters open and have the HU filter 80hz instead at the lpf. I can set them individually subs, front, rear. The HU can get pretty complicated
There’s no need to use head unit filters. That just adds extra room for error. If you can turn the filters off, turn the filters off, if not, then basically set the filters on full range. Just use the amp filters. Most people don’t use head unit filters. I always hear people saying they make things confusing and don’t coincide correctly.
Aeroport general rules to follow?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
I like your screen name because their are 72 Canaanite statues in Solomon's vineyard. Solomon is a lying bitch though that tries to speak on my behalf too. Weird.