Jump to content


SMD Bronze Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by 1point21gigawatts

  1. Sounds like a good plan. An older Honda Civic hatchback or an s10 extended cab would be a better cabin for that build and are more reliable of vehicles. I was just looking at a Honda Civic hatchback the other day. I like them. Good potential. Shit, that s10 extended cab would be good too. You know your vehicles. Kudos.
  2. It happens. I do it too sometimes. I’ve got a point on my account for going too hard before. But, that’s off subject. I’ve been wanting to mess around with some aa mayhem subwoofers. So I’m gonna like this build. What are you gonna do about charging and batteries on them amps?
  3. I wouldn’t of chimed in if I haven’t drove multiple dealership cars that have bad turbos. I work at a used car dealership and work on the vehicles too and have experienced the same issue in the same type of vehicles. Not exact year model though. Them vehicle’s turbos fill and clog with carbon and need to be blown out periodically to maintain performance. Most vehicles that are turbocharged call for premium gas and when regular gas is used it could cause performance issues. And a vehicle that has a turbo boost issue drives and can vary in performance depending on the vehicle and the severity of
  4. A vehicle with a turbo uses its turbo at low rpms and gears too. Once your foot touches the pedal, boost is engaged from that vehicle’s turbo, or should be if it’s functioning correctly. If there is no boost or lack in boost, it would feel as if the vehicle isn’t getting juice like it’s being restricted, so to say. Drive it and wait for a check engine to come on and then go to an auto parts store and get the codes read and that’s the only way to truly know what’s going on. I just said turbo because, that vehicle and that symptom you said points to that vehicle’s turbo having a boost issue. But
  5. My battery cells can charge over 16 volts. Batteries are better to ground amps to. Better resistance. When you see people with banks of batteries or cells, look where their amps are grounded. Like if you see a bank of cells or batteries on YouTube or at a show, look where their amps are grounded. You have to understand resistance to know what’s gonna be better to conduct off of and ground off of and then know the connection of that circuit to rule out ground loops and faulty wiring. And capacitors offer capacitance, not reserve. They can act like it but that’s just because of it eating to stor
  6. Yo, did you just tell this dude to buy a Jensen amp from Walmart? Wtf?
  7. It’s probably not getting any boost. It’s probably turbo issues. I work at a dealership and have run into bad turbos before. The vehicle would run good for a bit and then it’s like the vehicle isn’t getting any boost and it stays weird like that and then sometimes the vehicle periodically goes back to normal and then to reduced boost again and then whenever you turn the vehicle off and then back on, the vehicle builds up boost and it’s good for a while and then it does it again.
  8. Just because your amp is connected to that back battery directly doesn’t mean that’s the culprit. You have to remember, that battery and alternator setup is in circuit together. If one thing isn’t up to par, it would affect the whole circuit and then cause quicker drain of that inferior factor and after awhile it would drain and affect the other factors in that circuit. It should be working together and now you have a poorly grounded battery working against that vehicles electrical circuit. That one 1/0 gauge ground isn’t enough to ground that rear battery that you are pulling hard from with 4
  9. Hell no. But other than me saying that. What’s up buddy ? Haven’t seen you on the forum in a while. Glad you are back on. But for real, that dude 100% needs more reserve and probably needs better grounding too.
  10. A bank of caps isn’t gonna help you. You need more reserve, not quicker charge and discharge, caps don’t offer reserve, just quicker charge and discharge rate, which helps voltage. But if you don’t have the reserve to feed that hungry ass amp then that amp won’t eat and won’t put out what it’s suppose to. Point blank. Stop trying to find answers and spend hours reading what you find on Google search and watching videos when you were told the answer to save you from doing that needless searching. That’s crazy dude. And your voltage is probably lower in the rear because your rear battery isn’t g
  11. Ohio generator is a good alternator company. But if you want a good alternator for cheaper the go to JS alternators website and if you don’t see an option on that vehicle, then email them and they can most likely make you one. If not, then message brand x on Facebook. They operate through Facebook. Both good, reliable and trusted companies and products and not as expensive as the other hood alternator companies.
  12. I was gonna put a pair on a bass 15k. Platinums are the shit. I just wish they were lower impedance, like .7-.8 per coil instead of a true 1 ohm. The guys at resilient sounds are the shit. They looked out for me. I’m not gonna say, but just know, they are the shit, not just the owners. Plus I’ve called them just to talk about car audio options and things like that and they are there to help and don’t brush people off. Now let me talk about subwoofers. Sundown x subwoofers aren’t spl subwoofers. I was sporting sundown before I went to deaf bonce. And before I was sporting sundown, I was sportin
  13. You wouldn’t need to upgrade your factory alternator. No way. Just a big 3 and secondary agm battery, 140ah, or spend more money and do an agm under the hood and a smaller agm in the rear, equaling at least 140ah-160ah(optimal). Shuriken makes good agm batteries. Just make it cheap and easy and don’t worry about that battery under your hood. Because xs isn’t gonna have a battery with enough amp hours that’s gonna fit. So why spend so much money on an xs battery under the hood and you would have to buy a secondary one too, no doubt or questions about that, and then you realize you just spent li
  14. Them resilient platinums would outdo any of them subwoofers you listed and would do well in smaller enclosures if needed unlike the other subwoofers you listed. Plus resilient sounds owners are cool as shit. That aab 7900 is better than a sfb 8k. Sfb amps are so current hungry. So now that I’m talking about current. What are you thinking on an alternator and battery setup?
  15. I got mad before on that old post you commented on and wasn’t accurate on. But that isn’t a big deal and it happens. Just because I don’t like a comment doesn’t mean I don’t like that person and doesn’t stop me from helping that person. Sfb’s are current hungry amps. You either need to switch to lithium or get a bigger alternator and a tad more agm. There are companies that would make you an alternator. You have to email JS alternators or message brand x on Facebook. No worries. They are both good and trusted companies. What type of subwoofer are you using?
  16. From the information you have listed there is only 2 possible culprits I can think of. You either didn’t fuse the positive battery wiring before going to that amp and there was a surge. Or, it’s a defective amp and that was gonna happen no matter what. And amps aren’t suppose to share the same ground either. That creates a ground loop.
  17. Tuning a 4th order enclosures port has nothing to do with the bandwidth of that enclosure. Tuning is just where the enclosure peaks at. Bandwidth on a 4th order enclosure mainly has to do with the ratio. A 50hz peak would not affect the enclosures bandwidth. It would affect the output of the enclosure. It’s best to peak around 45hz. Doesn’t have to be exactly 45hz, just around that to generate the best output. If you have decided on bandwidth over spl, then you would have to focus more on the ratio and leave the tuning around where I said with about 20sq” of port area per cubic foot of the po
  18. A square port creates better air flow. And do 20sq” of port area per cubic foot of the ported section if you are looking to get louder. And if you want better bandwidth, then do a smaller ratio like a 2:1 ratio. Tune it to 45hz. Port area and ratio can differ depending on build but tuning should always stay around 45hz. Tuning has nothing to do with bandwidth. Tuning is what it peaks at. The sealed section plays lower frequencies and the ported section plays higher frequencies. A larger ratio makes it louder but less bandwidth. A smaller ratio makes the enclosures bandwidth better but output i
  19. The dynavox tweeters are the ones I would recommend after assessing the other options and input and knowing what kind of sound you like.
  20. But if they are over powering his mids then that might tell you that you should get some more subtle tweeters like those silk tweeters. That means the fabric probably isn’t as flexible as silk. So now that I’m thinking. I would go with them tweeters from parts express.
  21. You could do them tweeters in parallel at 1.5 ohms and tune them tweeters on a 0db tone and you would be fine. I like those tweeters more than the 2 you picked out.
  22. I do like that them tweeters are neo and have a dome constructed like that. Those would sound good. But I wish I knew the material of the fabric so I could know more about the sound.
  23. Both them tweeters you are looking at are almost the same. The only difference is the fabric on the dome. One is silk and one is textile with unlisted fabric. So the only difference is how the sound breaks up. Unless that textile is silk weaved. Then them tweeters are the same. Basically, textile means woven fabric.
  • Create New...