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1point21gigawatts

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  1. What are some go to companies you prefer when it comes to mids? Your suggestion might help his decision.
  2. I did say prv but I can’t make a decision if I don’t know which speaker you are comparing so I can look at the t/s parameters. And what kind of amp or rms are you wanting to apply?
  3. Any port that has common wall(s) to the enclosure itself.
  4. Post the specs of the enclosure design you come up with before you build that enclosure.
  5. And it’s complicated to design a ported enclosure on that website because you have to calculate the port displacement and other displacements yourself. It isn’t a program that would calculate the port displacement for you and the other displacements you enter in the program. Because the calculation you would yield on that website would be the gross volume of the enclosure. You would have to calculate the port volume first and then add the subwoofer and bracing displacements and then add 5.5 cubes to that and then that would be the gross volume calculation. It’s best to use a program on a computer, winisd or torres or on your phone, if it’s an android, not an iPhone, an app called box tune calculator or an app called ultimate car audio app (EXO uses this app). Now tuning is important and understanding a port and how to tune it is even more important. Say a port calls for a length of 30 inches. That is the effective port length. Now figuring a port you first need to figure the correction factor then minus that from the effective port length to figure the physical port length. The correction factor is half the width of the port. Say the port is 5 inches wide, then the correction factor is 2.5 inches. 30-2.5=27.5 inches, which is the physical port length. Then to find the physical port length, you have to measure down the middle of the port. You would have to factor in the front enclosure wall in the port length and the back enclosure wall has to be factored in when figuring the elbow of the port. The correction factor is used here to figure the actual length of the inner port walls.
  6. I forgot to ask you, what kind of vehicle? Because I need to understand the cabin area. The recommendation I made was if you have a midsize to large suv. Which I’m guessing you do, but like I said, facts and calculations are the best concerning car audio. My bad. I’m tired so I wasn’t thinking as clear as normal lol!
  7. The bandwidth would be narrow on the higher low end frequencies but the mids would pick up them frequencies if you tune your speaker amp correctly.
  8. If I come off rude, I’m sorry, I didn’t mean to. And the reason I was indecisive about the other recommendations is because I thought you were one of them guys that doesn’t go against manufacturers recommendation because the fact that you wanted and enclosure that was exactly in middle of their sizing recommendations and I kept telling myself, I have to make sure I help this guy get the best enclosure he would accept and believe would be the best. But then I told myself, fugh it, I’m just gonna tell him that fi’s recommendations are just there to reference and tell him the t/s parameters tell me that that subwoofer would be its best in a 5.5 foot enclosure, tuned to 30hz with 80-85sq” of port area.
  9. Opinions are cool on some stuff like what should we eat but when it comes to car audio, facts and calculations are best. Opinions in car audio leave room for error. Correct calculations and facts leave no room for error.
  10. It’s not opinions, it’s calculations factoring in the t/s parameters.
  11. But if you don’t want to do that then 4.5 cubes, 58-59sq” of port tuned to 32hz would sound good. But I’m a bass head and I do appreciate sound quality too, and I would build the bigger enclosure, if that tells you anything.
  12. 5.5 cubes, 80-85sq” of port tuned to 30hz would be the specs I would build if it were my subwoofer and amp.
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