1point21gigawatts

Instead of upgrading your subwoofers, upgrade your amp. Them Skar evl’s are good. So, just buy a taramps smart 3 at $250-$305, depending on where you buy it from, and be done with it and you’ll be happy. Don’t buy power acoustik anything. It’s crap. Period. I’m not talking junk. I’m just trying to help you out so you can be happy and have some good sound and pressure.

Agreed. You need a big 3 on that amount of rms. 1500 rms or more is when a big 3 needs to be done, at least. And at 2000 rms or more is when an extra battery should be added with a big 3. Honestly, 1500 rms an extra battery should be added too. But I’m guessing you are probably using a hifonics amp or something like that, so you just need to do a big 3 upgrade with 1/0 ofc.

And you need dual positive 1/0 runs on that big 3 upgrade and dual positive 1/0 runs coming from that front battery to that rear secondary battery if you get a bigger alternator than a 320. And no matter the alternator size, you need dual 1/0 runs from that rear secondary battery to that subwoofer amp. And you never mentioned what you are gonna do about your mids and highs and an amp on those too. Because on that amount of subwoofer rms, you need more rms on aftermarket speakers and tweeters. And you need to put some sound deadening in your trunk, at the very least, if you dont wanna sound lik

Those quality power alternators are crap. Check out JS alternators on their website or brand x on Facebook messenger or singer on their website or mechman on their website or dc on their website. JS and brand x are the cheaper choices and just as good. If you don’t see an alternator selection on your vehicle then email for a custom built alternator that fits your vehicle. Those are same price as the regular selection. No worries. Brand x operates through Facebook messenger and has a website too but contact them on Facebook messenger and they can make an alternator that fits any vehicle. Same s

Remember that since you didn’t buy that gear from that shop, even if they retune it and hook it up, if it messes up, then they aren’t held accountable and won’t pay out anything or give you new gear. So it’s best to just buy a fuse there and buy a dd1 and wait for it and hook up your setup then. There is no such thing as cutting corners or being cheap when it comes to achieving a good or decent car audio setup.

And don’t half step in car audio. It would be best to buy a dd1 too or you are gonna wast more than the $189 that dd1 costs to buy new gear because of a clipped signal because of an amps gain being set incorrectly. And about that fuse, I said 150 amp fuse just in case you go bigger because that wire can pass more than 100 amps. Buying the biggest wire fuse is the smartest thing because you would never have to get another fuse unless you pop it making sparks or something. A bigger fuse doesn’t hurt nor change current draw. It just protects better.

Go to a car audio shop instead to get a fuse.

It could just be the fuse. but that picture you posted in that other thread you posted looked like you burnt something where that positive battery feed is at in that amp. But you need a new fuse anyways, buy a 150 amp fuse and see what happens.

You can’t put a limitless lithium battery in the factory battery location. It’s too hot because of the vehicle’s engine. And yes you can wire a dual alternator to one battery. Alternators are charging and a battery is reserve. So basically, more alternators work as one but increase the charging.

You should of took the fuse out before connecting the amp. You probably touched some metal on the amp near that terminal when you were plugging that wire in to be secured while that wire was live and messed that amp up. A gain has nothing to do with rms output. It is how you tune your amp to match the rca signal of your head unit or line out converter if you are using a factory head unit. Buy a dd1 to tune your new amp you are gonna have to buy and then remember when you plug or unplug your amp, make sure the fuse is out so the wire isn’t live. Now if you want to be cheap and not tune your amp

Wasn’t faking. I was lazy and that’s real lol!

I didn’t read it either, I skimmed. But I remember Meade saying that middle tuning thing in a YouTube video I watched teaching about his meters. Who needs a dd1 manual when Meade can tell you via YouTube. A dd1 manual is nice to reference though. I use to like the books in school that had a movie to match so I wouldn’t have to read it lol! Sometimes I would middle tune in on that and just listen to one of them tapes who reads the book for me while I hold the book open and sort of follow along. Lol!

Set by rca pre outs. Play track 1 (40hz 0db tone) on your subwoofer preouts and then play track 2 (1khz 0db tone) on your front and rear pre outs. Then figure the clean volume point on each reading and if the reading are different, then tune your amps on the volume in the middle of said figures. It says that in the user manual. To be honest, I would buy a head unit that is clean even at full tilt. But if you have to settle, then tune on the middle volume. Meaning if your subwoofer preout is clean on a 0db 40hz tone up to volume 20 and your front and rear preouts are clean on a 0db 1khz tone up

I skimmed through this thread and I like the build. How far are them pole vents on them IDQs from that board? Fugh the subwoofers heating up. That’s a problem, but if tuned correctly and not played for long periods of time wouldnt cause a problem for a while, but since I’m a bass head, it doesn’t seem like the main problem if you ask me. Yeah, that would make them heat up quicker. But, the main thing to understand about a pole vent being too close, is that the subwoofers output is affected. Smothering causes heat “and” MINIMIZES OUTPUT.