1point21gigawatts

I was unaware that you got a new alternator. That’s what’s up.

I just read where he said he uninstalled his vehicle’s factory charging wire and didn’t bother reading the next response lol. I remember what you are talking about and trying to find it on one of Meade’s videos.

So do them 2 things and your vehicle’s voltage is stabilized.

That’s why. Install that wire back with that upgraded wire because removing the factory charging wire messes with said vehicle’s voltage.

The guy (joe x) that asked the OP to tell him measurements can outbuild and design enclosures way better than the car audio fabrication guy. I can too. Not saying anything bad about the car audio fabrication guy. I’m not gonna be one of the guys that bashes him like I’ve seen in the past. He is smart. But I wouldn’t pay him for a subwoofer enclosure design. He isn’t one of the elite subwoofer enclosure builders and designers. So it wouldn’t be worth the money. Joe x posts enclosure designs with specs and diagrams for free. A cut sheet is then easily figured out at that point.

I’ve read that the alternators on that vehicle and similar vehicles can charge up to around 14.5-14.7v with no problems.

just want to know if you know that 2 4” aero ports is no where near equivalent in port area to 1 8” aero port? You probably already know that. I was just checking. Port area on that much rms and that size subwoofer enclosure is restricting the output of that subwoofer immensely and cooling isn’t as adequate as needed. Inverting that subwoofer until getting a custom subwoofer enclosure would help a bit on cooling.

I can understand that. I’ve done it in the past just to have some bass.

if you like aeroports then 5 cubes on an 8” aeroport is nice.

That’s nice. The only thing that I would change about it is the prefab enclosure. Joe x or I could help you with a nice subwoofer enclosure design. Other than that, it’s looking nice.

Did you alter your alternator’s charging (positive) wire? Is the alternator flush on the bracket?

He can use agm batteries with lipo4 limitless lithium batteries, the gorilla series batteries are the only lithium batteries limitless lithium carries that are a different lithium chemistry. Since the regular limitless lithium batteries have such a low resting voltage level that’s so close to the resting voltage of agm batteries makes them batteries compatible. Limitless lithium is gonna tell you the same. Plus, a seatbelt is the one of the worse place to ground anything because it’s a spot weld location. Ground your rear battery to the frame of your vehicle and then ground your amp(s) to the negative of the battery the amp(s) are connected to. That’s the best way to ground. If your vehicle is a unibody then ground your battery to the chassis (the metal body of the vehicle) of your vehicle and then your amp(s) to your battery. And to tell you what’s up, that’s the biggest issue. You don’t need to waste your money on an expensive lithium battery. Just buy another agm battery and ground that other battery well with a dual 1/0 ground to the frame of your vehicle. An xs xp3000 battery is what you need. Or you could just sell your other batteries and do a front battery delete and do either 40ah of LTOs or 25ah of lipo4 and you would be good. That’s what I would do. It would be better.

You 100% would be fine. You don’t even need to do a big 3 and would be fine with minimal voltage drop. A big 3 upgrade and your voltage hardly would move. So that’s the most you need to do. I have a 1500 rms amp and a 400 rms amp that I just took out the vehicle I recently bought and even when I was clipping before I tuned it before I decided to take it out, My voltage hardly moved on a stock 110 amp alternator and no big 3 and a cheap lead acid battery. I’ve ran a 1400 rms amp and then a 1500 rms amp on a stock 130 amp alternator with no upgrades and a lead acid battery and then 2 amps were nasty. The 1400 rms was a mmats dh1400.2 at 2 ohms I was clamping over 1200 rms, I was clipping some, but whatever , and then that other amp on that vehicle was a Rockford 1500bdcp that was when I wasn’t clipping and on the bounded line of having to do a big 3 upgrade and that amp draws way more current than the amp you want. Draws about twice as much current. You are good dude.

Your port is firing off the side of a seat that splits the pre pressurized flow and it parts and disperses before it gets to the hardest panel it’s facing to pressurize off of which is that rear driver’s side door. Just move that other seat up and scoot that enclosure close to that rear driver’s side door where the port is the same distance from that door panel as the the height of that port and then it builds pressure harder because the air is bouncing back and forth on that panel and that enclosures side and then it pressurizes that trucks cab from that side and causes it to pull to the passenger side and then it bounces back and forth in that flow rapidly and your truck thus is subbed out, not weed and blunts, but bass and bump.

Subwoofer enclosure isn’t built correctly. Positioning is off and possible not enough port area. But mainly the positioning of the port. Let me guess, it’s subwoofers up and port up and on your backseat?