1point21gigawatts

3.75 feet of net volume or close to and 67.5-71.25 square inches of port area or close to. This is a 15% increase in recommended net volume and 18-19 square inches of port area per cubic foot because of the amount of rms that enclosure and subwoofer will be seeing. The port area per cube would lessen if there was more net volume, like if there were 2 subwoofers instead of one because when a smaller enclosure is getting fed a lot of rms, the port area formula has to be increased to compensate.

The resilient sounds platinum subwoofer. Better t/s parameters and a more solid build. Just check the specs (the soft part construction and the t/s parameters) on each subwoofer and you can see that the resilient sounds subwoofer is better.

@AaronT I don’t even think he is gonna get back on the forum to check this thread. Lol! But yeah, he could use more port area on bigger subwoofers that are getting a lot of rms thrown at them like that subwoofer. I wish DC listed more specs instead of “coming soon” or whatever.

The reason that happened was because the port couldn’t breathe and was getting smothered because it was too close to a wall or whatever making it “almost” like a sealed enclosure.

There isn’t a specific port length. The port length is determined on what frequency you want to tune it to. The port width is determined by how much rms you are going to put to it so there isn’t port noise. The port area is determined by the size of the enclosure. On average 12-16sq” of port area per cubic foot. What kind of amp are you gonna be using and what kind of music do you listen to?

I would go with a 12” ssa icon before they sell out because ssa isn’t making subwoofers anymore and they are REALLY GOOD. for the rms you are using, that’s the best bet. Plus the ssa icons hit hard and are REALLY musical.

You have a bad connection somewhere like I stated in the first post. After you fix that issue and get back to normal voltage, add a diode to increase voltage anyways. It’s better so why not.

My best guess is because noobs clip and it’s safer to match rms but bass heads know about box rise and voltage drop and incorporate that because we won’t be clipping. Plus manufacturers don’t want a bunch of people bugging them about blown subs because they didn’t know what they were doing. Plus, manufacturers can’t guesstimate each individual box rise and voltage drop to make accurate adjusted ratings.

Email XS directly or any of their authorized dealers and inquire. Email down4sound and XS and see who answers first and what each of them have to say about the matter.

Lol! That wouldn’t happen. Plus, there’s a dude on here that has a 15” dc neo elite on a taramps bass 30k.

I would throw an 8k on one. After rise the sub would see about 5k.

What exact type of vehicle? So I can know if you can remove something from that vehicle to make things fit. Because when it comes to sound, in that available area, one subwoofer would do better. Using 2 subs and smothering them would be less output than 1 sub that can breathe well, volume and port sizing. And what kind of amp are you using? Because it’s unlikely you are using an amp that would be too much for one of them subwoofers. If I had them subwoofers, I would put them on a taramps bass 20k. Because after impedance rise and the subwoofers being able to handle more than 4500 rms after rise, it would be perfect. You probably would have voltage drop to figure as well. And have you even bought the subwoofers yet and now are trying to fit them?

The sense wire is the wire that reads battery voltage even when the vehicle is off.

Solder a 1N4004 diode to the alternators sense wire.