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1point21gigawatts

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  1. He can use agm batteries with lipo4 limitless lithium batteries, the gorilla series batteries are the only lithium batteries limitless lithium carries that are a different lithium chemistry. Since the regular limitless lithium batteries have such a low resting voltage level that’s so close to the resting voltage of agm batteries makes them batteries compatible. Limitless lithium is gonna tell you the same. Plus, a seatbelt is the one of the worse place to ground anything because it’s a spot weld location. Ground your rear battery to the frame of your vehicle and then ground your amp(s) to the negative of the battery the amp(s) are connected to. That’s the best way to ground. If your vehicle is a unibody then ground your battery to the chassis (the metal body of the vehicle) of your vehicle and then your amp(s) to your battery. And to tell you what’s up, that’s the biggest issue. You don’t need to waste your money on an expensive lithium battery. Just buy another agm battery and ground that other battery well with a dual 1/0 ground to the frame of your vehicle. An xs xp3000 battery is what you need. Or you could just sell your other batteries and do a front battery delete and do either 40ah of LTOs or 25ah of lipo4 and you would be good. That’s what I would do. It would be better.
  2. You 100% would be fine. You don’t even need to do a big 3 and would be fine with minimal voltage drop. A big 3 upgrade and your voltage hardly would move. So that’s the most you need to do. I have a 1500 rms amp and a 400 rms amp that I just took out the vehicle I recently bought and even when I was clipping before I tuned it before I decided to take it out, My voltage hardly moved on a stock 110 amp alternator and no big 3 and a cheap lead acid battery. I’ve ran a 1400 rms amp and then a 1500 rms amp on a stock 130 amp alternator with no upgrades and a lead acid battery and then 2 amps were nasty. The 1400 rms was a mmats dh1400.2 at 2 ohms I was clamping over 1200 rms, I was clipping some, but whatever , and then that other amp on that vehicle was a Rockford 1500bdcp that was when I wasn’t clipping and on the bounded line of having to do a big 3 upgrade and that amp draws way more current than the amp you want. Draws about twice as much current. You are good dude.
  3. Your port is firing off the side of a seat that splits the pre pressurized flow and it parts and disperses before it gets to the hardest panel it’s facing to pressurize off of which is that rear driver’s side door. Just move that other seat up and scoot that enclosure close to that rear driver’s side door where the port is the same distance from that door panel as the the height of that port and then it builds pressure harder because the air is bouncing back and forth on that panel and that enclosures side and then it pressurizes that trucks cab from that side and causes it to pull to the passenger side and then it bounces back and forth in that flow rapidly and your truck thus is subbed out, not weed and blunts, but bass and bump.
  4. Subwoofer enclosure isn’t built correctly. Positioning is off and possible not enough port area. But mainly the positioning of the port. Let me guess, it’s subwoofers up and port up and on your backseat?
  5. He can’t just search forums to find a custom enclosure design suited for his build just because the subwoofers are the same in other designs. The rms comes into play and the vehicle comes into play and the preference of what the person is looking to gain out of their car audio system in reference to the sound.
  6. That’s a vague example of said enclosure. What’s the net volume after port displacement and what’s the displacement of each subwoofer?
  7. So who can speak on my behalf? Who can do what I do? Who am I? That makes 49 reply’s and this is 50. Not what people counted on but count with me and check for errors. I am who I am and I dare somebody to tell me I’m not.
  8. I can do anything I want. It’s not magic. It’s me.
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