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1point21gigawatts last won the day on May 28

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  1. If there’s no ground loop noise then don’t worry about it, you’re fine. It would be stronger grounds if they were separate in separate locations on separate bolts. But if it’s working, then go with it. If it isn’t broke, don’t fix it.
  2. https://www.woofersetc.com/idq-8-v-4-d4-image-dynamics-8-500w-rms-dual-4-ohm-idq-v-4-series-subwoofer.html top notch sound quality and they play low efficiently and NICE.
  3. Understandable. But you’ll be fine and better off with that xs3000 and a big 3 just to feed that amp current and then caps would keep the voltage up but I’m sure with that amount of current draw on a 155 amp alternator and a big 3 with a 120ah battery he won’t drop below mid to high 13s. He might not drop below 14.
  4. My bad, I had edited the first one so I could add where to get the bank of caps and I deleted the first one. I posted this to clear it up for onlookers.
  5. That amp will never see that amount of current even on sine waves because of the impedance rise. And that number cuts in half when it comes to music play. The only way that amp will ever see that rated maximum current is on an amp dyno playing a sine wave keeping that amp at a stable impedance. Caps have a quicker charge and discharge rate which stabilizes the voltage. That’s what I meant. The big 3 would add charging and discharging upgrades and be enough to stabilize his voltage with that small current pull. He needs an extra battery for more reserve. Caps won’t deliver what he needs. For the price he spends on a 500 farad bank, because a 65 farad bank isn’t gonna do hardly anything, he can buy an extra battery. $299 will buy a 500 farad bank from limitless lithium or a 120ah agm battery, maybe $40 more if you decide on an xs battery instead of a shuriken or something. Go with the extra battery. Trust me.
  6. After impedance rise and voltage drop you know there’s no way a 2000 watt amp will ever see that many watts nor amps, since the impedance will be higher, makes the rms less and current draw less. Way less. He wouldn’t need much to run that amp. Big 3 upgrade and an extra battery. No need for a bank of caps because he needs more reserve, not quicker charge and discharge. The big 3 will handle that when it comes to that amount of current draw.
  7. And that subwoofers surround is wrinkling which is kind of telling me it might be bottoming out. The amp isn’t enough to do that and the gain isn’t high enough to distort it too much and the volume isn’t high enough. Did you check the other subwoofer and did you check the spiders? Is it just that one subwoofer? I think the spiders are messed up, disconnected somewhere causing the subwoofer(s) to bottom out and/or make noise.
  8. Sorry to bother you but after looking through many enclosure threads and seeing your replies II thought I would ask, if you could design an enclosure for 2  Skar Zvx15v2's (powered by a SKv2-3500.1D) for a 2011 Jetta SE?

    I dont fully comprehend port dynamics....this is why I wanted to reach out. I am in no rush as I have a box/subs for now, but it is something I do plan on doing in the next few months.

    I have measurements that will allow me to fit a box through my trunk and have the airspace the subs require, but the distance between each sub, port, and other factors I cannot plan for with the resources I am using. I dont mind running subs up and port back or any other deal as long as I can either have the port flow into the cabin or the subs atleast facing the cabin through the rear seats. My original plan looks much like the Skar EVL Box with the 2 subs with the port in the center facing into the cabin but I doubt that will be possible with the 15" subs...


    Height: 17" (anything taller wont fit through trunk opening)

    Width: 35"

    Depth (top): 28"

    Depth (Bottom): 38"

    (Pics below of available area)


    I would like to use Birch or 1" MDF, have a decent amount of bracing and what ever amount of baffling you would think is necessary. If you have any suggestions or comments I would love to hear them. I appreciate your time and look forward to hearing from you.





  9. Connect that clip indicator to the amp and leave it beside the amp and turn the gain all the way down and then go to your head unit and turn the volume to the highest volume level that you listen to and then play a 40 hz test tone off your cellphone and then go back to the amp and creep the gain up while the tone is playing until you see the clip indicator go off and when you see it go off, turn back a hair until it goes off. Then your amp’s gain is set. And remember that any volume over the volume that you set the gain will have clipping. Some people set their amp’s gain with the head unit all the way up, full tilt, but I don’t see why because unless you’re gonna be listening to your head unit full tilt then it’s pointless. So tune it at the highest desired listening volume and don’t play it over that volume. Clipping (distortion) is the number one culprit of blowing subwoofers. Some people think they blew their subwoofers from feeding it too many watts when truly it was fed too much distortion aka clipping.
  10. Because I didn’t watch the video until like 20 minutes ago and when I first got on this thread, like 3 hours ago, I just read what you posted but after watching that video and then you saying at peaks it makes the noise screams to me, CHECK THE SPIDERS!
  11. Then that’s probably a noise of (a) spider(s) that came unglued. Take the subwoofers out of the enclosure and check the spiders thoroughly, like apply pressure all the way around the spiders with your fingers and play with the cone pushing it back and forth to properly diagnose the spiders and check back in. Because that’s what I think it is. Skar will replace it if it’s a manufacture defect.
  12. I’ve been meaning to ask you. What ohm load are the voice coils on that neo elite?
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