1point21gigawatts
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Posts posted by 1point21gigawatts
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To check the if the amp is sending distortion to the speakers and/or subwoofers you have to plug the probes into the speaker inputs on the amp. The factory head unit isn’t the device sending off the rca signal so that head unit doesn’t matter. The loc that is sending the rca signal is what matters when checking if that device is sending distortion to the amp. You plug on of the rca plug that goes into that amp into the dd1 plug that the probes plug into and test the loc like that.
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After factoring in impedance rise and voltage drop, a dc audio 5.0k would do the trick. A 3.5 isn’t enough, no way.
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Email XS directly or any of their authorized dealers and inquire. Email down4sound and XS and see who answers first and what each of them have to say about the matter.
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16 minutes ago, tapdtroy said:
I have a jl 12w7 running at 1.5 ohms with a 5000w planet audio amp 20 farad planet audio cap (just relying on what they say the units push, obviously not the case though) 2 batteries and stock alternator with a pioneer head unit. I have it installed in my 95 regal 4door with an 8"X10" port cut in the back reat and it sounds ridiculous!! I recently used a decibel meter from work and I'm easily hitting 153 decibels. It sounds crisp
Lol that’s a lie. There’s no way a 5000 watt planet audio amp would do a 153 on a 12” w7. Get the fugh out of here with them lies. Lies will get you ban. That’s stated in the smd forum rules.
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It probably sounds like shit because the amp isn’t tuned correctly and/or maybe that loc isn’t sending a strong enough signal and/or maybe that enclosure isn’t placed correctly or the correct size or specs that that subwoofer wants. Probably a bad enclosure build that doesn’t have enough port area or maybe too small or too big or maybe the pole vent is getting smothered. Don’t be mad at sundown. It isn’t their fault. You should diagnose things. And if you can’t, just ask us. State your problem and tell us what you are working with and we can help. Post some pictures too.
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Parking lots and foreign places and even your driveway when people that just drive by from visiting somebody in your neighborhood and see the sticker or traveling junkies that drive from neighborhood to neighborhood looking for a come up. It’s not smart. It’s some noob stuff dude. Only people that put car audio decals all over their vehicles are people that compete and advertise and most get paid for it or get discounts or free products for doing so and they have their comp vehicles locked up in a garage. I wouldn’t wish theft upon anybody. That’s why I’m trying to help you. You are one of us and we have to look out for each other. And I’m advising you not to label your vehicle. I have plenty of decals that would look cool on my glass. I even have really big ones. But I don’t use them on my vehicles.
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Take that decal off your window dude. That sticker tell junkie who car hop that you have a system. Move in silence and bump in moderation. You don’t want everybody knowing you have a system. Haters or junkies might try something.
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There would be no increase in swapping subwoofers. That amp isn’t on the verge of overpowering them EVLs. You are good. I’m gonna design some enclosures tonight. That’s the only thing you need.
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And I forgot to say, I can’t hate on the guy or be mad at him for being foolish because I’ve been foolish before too, dunce cap foolish before lol!
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20 minutes ago, Fish Chris said:
Doers everyone realize, this thread was started 11 years ago ?
lol Seriously though, did anyone ever ask the OP about his alternator ?
Yes, I noticed that and I am not speaking to the OP which doesn’t need help and probably hasn’t been on the forum in about a decade. I was just commenting to the guy who posted on this thread earlier today that was bad mouthing xs batteries and saying that the salesman saying xs batteries are superior to kinetic is just a snake oil salesman. I thought I’d prove that dude wrong. I don’t like people like that. He who answers a matter before he hears it, It is folly and shame to him. Folly means foolish. Meaning whoever spouts off at the mouth before knowing facts is a fool that’s looked down upon.
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7 hours ago, Granite said:
What in the actual? I’ve never seen such snake oil be relied on with such little evidence. Now, I’ve never owned an xs - just kinetiks - but this guy is asking us to forego all specs and take his word for it because, lead plates.
Look, if the xs battery is better, there would be a metric to point to. You can’t just use fancy buzzwords and tech jargon and expect discerning people to not question it.
What’s worse (and what got me putting xs under the microscope in the first place) is amazon is littered with fake reviews from xs - they get an F from fakespot on nearly all their highly reviewed batteries.
And now I come across this snake oil salesman saying xs is superior, but can’t point us to one spec that corroborated that claim.
Im either going kinetik - which I’ve never had a problem with, or golf cart batteries. But most certainly, I won’t be going with the battery maker with the most propaganda though.
It’s not snake oil. It’s true. Xs batteries are superior and hold a higher voltage during draw than kinetic and shuriken. Not much, but higher. I watched a video where they tested batteries alone that were the same amp hours. It was on YouTube. I’m gonna go find it right quick.
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Yes. If I were doing a build for that subwoofer I would tune it around 33hz. So 32hz is good. No worries.
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Sell me one of them scv7500s.
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Just don’t use a bass knob. Tune your amp to where it needs to be without distorting and be done with it. I’ve never used a bass knob. I never have to turn my bass down short of turning the head unit volume down.
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3 hours ago, fishchris1 said:
Come on bro, the difference in 32hz and 35 hz, is 3 hz <img src="> lol
Did you think you could stump me ? <img src=">
Dude, that’s a 8 year old thread. There’s no need for that. LOL!
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Or you could spend more money on 2 evl’s and get one of them amps. The evl’s are good subwoofers too. It’ll be the same thing, you’ll just spend more money that you don’t have to. SA subwoofers are known to be tanks and can take abuse for real. Either subwoofers you pick, you will be happy.
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Both them subwoofers can handle about the same exact rms. Just get another SA. You can put 1500 rms on one SA, easy. 2000 rms on one SA if you know what you’re doing. Just get another SA 12 and run both of them on a taramps smart 3 or a sundown sfb 3000d or a Skar rp 3500.1d. If I had to pick out of them 3, I would pick the taramps smart 3 because of it putting out the same rms at 1ohm and 2ohms, so when impedance rise occurs, that feature will help a lot. Make sure you set the gains correctly with little to no clipping.
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That is the only reason a regular guy needs a bass knob. I forgot about the family man bass set up and needing to turn the bass down. You’re welcome! Glad I could help.
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They have them on amazon too. Bass knobs are kinda pointless though.
https://www.amazon.com/SAE-R-Sundown-Remote-Control-Amplifiers/dp/B017HVVF26
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Keep your bass boost at 0. Because bass boost creates distortion which is the main thing that blows subwoofers. Nobody uses bass boost that knows car audio. So a bass knob is kinda pointless unless your competing and can control bass boost for quick burps. I’ve never used a bass knob.
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It’s unneeded and nobody really uses bass knobs. I don’t. But here’s a link for one.
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2 hours ago, audiofanaticz said:
Done
I wanted it be 1point21gigawatts, not 1.21gigawatts. Can you make it that please?
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Can you change my name to 1point21gigawatts please? Forgot to put the point. thank you dude!
2019 Toyota Camry
in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
Posted · Edited by 1point21gigawatts
You will have to it through the speaker inputs before the loc with the leads to find that factory head unit’s clipping point. Disconnect that speaker and use them wires (that come from that head unit) to find the clipping point. Use a 9v battery to find out which wire is positive and which is negative to make sure the phase is correct.