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Agent 815

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About Agent 815

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  1. thank you i saw that but itdoesnt answer my question totally i guess im going to have to measure it though
  2. hey man check that the speaker wires are still hooked up inside & outside the box, also check the pig tails one could have snapped if all that is fine check if there is signal gong into the amp if you are running more than one amp and the other is playing fine change the RCA over and see if anything comes through, just check i don't have much back ground for your install if you plug the RCA going into your mono into your 4 channel you ll be sending low frequencies to your doors. Tweeters don't like that so be careful, if the other RCA works fine i would plug them back in in place and swap the RCA's on the deck to check the RCA going to your head unit
  3. If it where me and I could get away with one alt I’d run one unless the system needed more than what I can get out of just one then I’d worry about adding a second
  4. ive been dreaming of this build ever since i first collected my car from the dealership 3 years ago since then ive wasted so much time & effort with other builds in the car (8 different setups) trying to see what i did and didn't like and contemplating how much space i was willing to lose and get as close to my goal as possible, this is what ill be building as a final build in this car 1 x DD Audio 815D2 Sub 1 x JBL Crown BPx2200.1 2 x Reference Audio 7080.4 1 Pair DD DC 6.5 Components 1 Pair DD EX 2.75 Mid-range Speakers 1 Pair DD VO-CT45 1 Pair DD VO-W8a 1 Pair Custom Built 3 way Dual Input cross overs 1 x 200 Amp Alternator 4 x CSB 75 Amp AGM batteries ( Id Love to do lithium but its a bit out of the price range in this country) The car will be matted using a product called CTK from top to bottom (am busy with this as we speak) All wiring to be done in 0 Guage Reference audio power cable & DD Audio Speaker Cable, Head Unit will be a pioneer double din unit (Not sure which just yet) car is being built for music but also want to drown out the haters at robots that being said she must just play music well and ill be happy as hell, im still in the process of buying and have started building so will share as i go along, will post pictures from my phone shortly, oh im from South Africa in case some of the brands are unfamiliar.
  5. i have a 13 ton hydraulic crimper that i can crimp anything from 8 gauge to 70mm cable with its much faster than trying to fire up the soldering iron and if its in a tight spot i can run the cable into the car to where i need them cut to size and crimp right there although to get started i feel like i sometimes need 3 hands but on average it takes 10 seconds to crimp a 0 gauge lug vs the century it takes me to soldier and its hella strong no way its coming loose, for cabling that inst going to be serviced or wont need to come out i splice, soldier and head shrink over (not a fan of male and female lugs behind a radio just a point for corrosion to start its magic at least with a soldiered joint and heat shrink its as tight as possible, but for lugs i crimp with the crimper its fast and stupid strong
  6. also get the battery load tested it may be on its way out or just straight up need a charge,
  7. hey man, i would check the grounds @ the alternator battery amp headhunt and high to lows or any converters line drivers you may have installed, is the hum there only when the engine is running or is it there consistently. last time i had this issue on a car it turned out to be a bad ground in my case i had all the necessary grounds in and they where tight but it wasn't enough i ended up adding an extra ground to the head units chassis and boom noise was gone, also check the wiring on the sub something inst happy there 4 Ohm load if you have a D2 Sub wire the two - terminal to each other and the two + terminals to each other then wire up a lead to one - and One + on opposite coils to get a final 1 Ohm load or wire one coils + to the other coils - then connect a lead to the remaining + & - to get a 4 Ohm Load also keep in mind if equipment is on its way out it may start making noises also had it with a DSP that was like 5 years old that started to generate a hum could be the amp or head-unit i would do what was mentioned before and plug a new RCA into the amp and your prone or another source that you know works fine to test the amp and sub and work back from there. im also assuming the RCA is run on opposite side of the car to your power wiring also from what i just googled on the amp it has two sets of inputs are you running a 4 gauge input to both or just one? also are the grounds for the amp in separate locations or in the same spot, if they are in different spots try putting them onto one spot or vice versa,
  8. hey Guys I'm new here and cant find much info on the JBL BPx2200.1, i recently got my hands on a 2nd hand one and am in the process of cleaning her up and checking that she is running 100s ill be running a DD Audio Red line series 800 15" sub on her but i'm not sure weather i should wire to 4 ohm or 1 ohm id prefer to wire to 4 ohm as i'm of the opinion that a sub wired to 4 ohm will "sound" better than the same sub wired to 1 ohm as there will be more control, (feel like i have misunderstood this please feel free to correct me) that being said the sub is quite strong and i wouldn't want to under power her. i understand that the amp will make 2450 Watts Rms @ 4 Ohm which should be enough juice to keep her happy, but im not sure if this will be in bridged or parallel mode i also see that if the sub has a load of 2 ohms or more you should wire to bridged and if its less that 2 ohms you should wire to parallel, i haven't purchased the sub yet so just need to know which route to go im guessing my options are as follows although im not sure what kind of power the amp will make in the two options and what the current draw will be, the input voltage should be clean up until 4 volts with the equipment i currently have, Bridged @ 4 or 2 ohm RMS - ? Max Current Draw - ? Parallel @ 1 Ohm RMS - ? Max Current Draw - ? TIA
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