[2017 Audi Q3 stereo upgrade]

13 hours ago, bigrank916 said:

I had seen that info about the head unit sensing the ohm load from the speaker. Most of the LOC PRO units from Audiocontrol have an ohm selector switch that will feed that info back to the head unit. Hopefully that will fix that issue. Did you use an LOC with that feature? I've even heard of in line resistor type for stock plug ins. Was that the only issue you had going the high level input route?

 

I'd love to find something that would allow me to use RCAs straight from the head unit. I haven't seen anyone replace the HU from my vehicle or the like anywhere online. Everything I've read or watched says aftermarket units for my car is next to impossible with the NAV, climate, etc integration. It's a very weird shape as well so nothing from a normal kit would work.

I did not go the LOC route. I have a helix Dsp with high level input. And yes that was the only issue I had.  We even adjusted the internal resistance of the DSP. Otherwise it would have been perfect 
 

im definitely lucky on having an easier time to get an aftermarket headunit with trim plate 

[2017 Audi Q3 stereo upgrade]

I have a VW Golf (2017). It has the basic entertainment system. I wanted to go with a high level to my DSP. I had nothing but problems going that route. The VW head unit is looking for a specific resistance at the speakers. I was constantly getting distortion coming in and out depending on the recording and song (It would happen multiple times through a song). This happened on multiple music platforms. It didn't matter how we set the headunit eq or volume at. If it was flat, below flat, frequencies turned down or up. It always came back to distorting at some point. I did get the work completed through a reputable shop and was thankful that all the diagnosis did not cost me anything.

 

There is a unit that can be installed that integrates the VW head unit and has RCA outputs (I don't remember what it is)

Ultimately I had went to the aftermarket headunit. Zero issues since.

[2017 VW Redo]

I have gone through a few set ups in this car since my last post of a few years ago. I've had 2 DC Level 5 12" in a 6th order and now a Single X10 in a 4th order.

Lots of data collected. I like the lows and I find it tough to get away from that.
 also like getting decent numbers. I've settled on the 4th order to get me that on relatively "low" power.

 

Score is meter on the glass. Windows up. On Music.

 

[Help needed with my DC Audio system - Level 6 18", 5K, Limitless, etc.]

4 hours ago, HybridNistico said:

Hey guys,

 

I'm not sure if these forums are completely dead, but I'm going to give this a go.  I'm looking for help.  Here is a rundown of my setup:

 

2017 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab Sport

Big 4, Singer 300A alternator, Limitless Lithium 6K, all 2/0 wiring, solid grounds

OEM head unit w/ PAC AmpPRO 6-channel integration/RCA outs

DC 5K and DC 90.4

JL Audio 3 way separates up front, JL audio co-axials in rear

DC Audio Level 6 18" in a Kerf Customs 5.5' cubic foot box tuned to 34hz (dual 2 ohm in parallel for 1 ohm mono load)

Doing 148.2 on the dash at 33-34hz

 

I recently started playing with an SMD AMM-1.  Prior to the AMM-1, I was using a clamp meter and multi-meter to get an approximate power level going to the sub and figured it was around 1,500 watts which I wasn't thrilled with.

 

Now, with the AMM-1, it's even worse because of the Power Factor calculation.  At the end of the day, I'm seeing around 800 watts and *I think* 7-8 ohms at 40hz.  At 60hz, I saw 2,500 watts at about 2 ohms.  At 30-35 hz, I'm literally maxing out at 7-800 watts before clipping.  Something is not adding up.  I watched for voltage at the Limitless 6K, and starting voltage was around 14.2, and during the run, the lowest I could get it to drop to was somewhere in the low 12's.  This was also surprising to see the Limitless drop to low 12's on voltage when it's rated for 6k+ watts, and it was happening during 7-800 watt runs.

 

The system is pretty loud and gets violent in the cabin at 33-34hz, but I'm really wondering if I'm leaving *a lot* on the table by missing something huge.  These numbers aren't adding up to me and figured someone here may be able to help me troubleshoot?  Thanks so much in advance!

 

I agree something isn't addiing up. I'm surprised that your impedance rise goes up to 4 ohms or so on a 1 ohm load. I was running 6k rms (rated power not AMM-1) at 2 ohm load and at or close to tuning frequency was at 5.2 ohms (6k rms amp rating down to 2,800 watts on the subs with the AMM-1). In my testing of a few systems that I've set up for myself and a couple that I've helped tune I've never had impedance rise go that high (except maybe at some lower volumes and higher frequencies). 

 

One thing you could check out is the settings on your amp (if if you're running it through a DSP). I was also running a taramps smart 3 and even with some minor adjustments to the low pass filter etc it made a big difference on low end performance, rms output and db's.

[Aeroport general rules to follow?]

@1point21gigawattsLots of wildfires where I’m at. 253 active ones. 

[Box help]

That port is way too small. You should be looking at between 12-16 sq in of port are per cubic foot of box volume. I'm at 24.5 sq inch of port area for my 2 8's and it's just a tad too small. I am assuming you entered in the size of the port you wanted to build because that website and calculator allow you to enter the values. It's not telling you the size. It "blindly" gives you the length based on the parameters you tell it. 

 

Another thing that I'm assuming you didnt allow for is deducting the port area and length (so again cubic ft) from the box volume. Your port volume is quite small so it probably didn't make much of a difference. I'm sure there are a few other guys that could weigh in on this (I'd consider myself a noob for box design and building but I think most of what I have said is true)