[2017 Audi Q3 stereo upgrade]

13 hours ago, bigrank916 said:

I had seen that info about the head unit sensing the ohm load from the speaker. Most of the LOC PRO units from Audiocontrol have an ohm selector switch that will feed that info back to the head unit. Hopefully that will fix that issue. Did you use an LOC with that feature? I've even heard of in line resistor type for stock plug ins. Was that the only issue you had going the high level input route?

 

I'd love to find something that would allow me to use RCAs straight from the head unit. I haven't seen anyone replace the HU from my vehicle or the like anywhere online. Everything I've read or watched says aftermarket units for my car is next to impossible with the NAV, climate, etc integration. It's a very weird shape as well so nothing from a normal kit would work.

I did not go the LOC route. I have a helix Dsp with high level input. And yes that was the only issue I had.  We even adjusted the internal resistance of the DSP. Otherwise it would have been perfect 
 

im definitely lucky on having an easier time to get an aftermarket headunit with trim plate 

[2017 Audi Q3 stereo upgrade]

I have a VW Golf (2017). It has the basic entertainment system. I wanted to go with a high level to my DSP. I had nothing but problems going that route. The VW head unit is looking for a specific resistance at the speakers. I was constantly getting distortion coming in and out depending on the recording and song (It would happen multiple times through a song). This happened on multiple music platforms. It didn't matter how we set the headunit eq or volume at. If it was flat, below flat, frequencies turned down or up. It always came back to distorting at some point. I did get the work completed through a reputable shop and was thankful that all the diagnosis did not cost me anything.

 

There is a unit that can be installed that integrates the VW head unit and has RCA outputs (I don't remember what it is)

Ultimately I had went to the aftermarket headunit. Zero issues since.

[2017 VW Redo]

I have gone through a few set ups in this car since my last post of a few years ago. I've had 2 DC Level 5 12" in a 6th order and now a Single X10 in a 4th order.

Lots of data collected. I like the lows and I find it tough to get away from that.
 also like getting decent numbers. I've settled on the 4th order to get me that on relatively "low" power.

 

Score is meter on the glass. Windows up. On Music.

 

[Been out of the game a LONG time, have a great idea, feel overwhelmed on where to start with box design]

2 hours ago, TexRob said:

 

I like to get low, but like I said, lets be realistic, I currently have zero lows in my car.  What you describe in your final line is where I'm at.  I would love to tune these for 30-40hz, so I can get lowish, but still hit hard and fast due to the cone size.  I will likely operate it at lower volumes 90% of the time, just being realistic.  So, performance at a mid volume is important if that is something to think about?  That's probably more of a gain adjustment type thing, but figured I'd mention it.  What I mainly want to gain is a full range of sound for normal listening, and the ability to push that to something more on occasion.

 

The bulk of the space is something like 18x8x10, with the 8 being the depth and something to consider.  I think it's plenty for a lot of 8s, even ported or vented, even with what I'll lose to the wood thickness.

 

So, given all of that, any brands I should short list for subs or amps?  I like researching stuff, so any names you wanna toss out I can dig up info on.  Any stand out budget brands right now for either?

 

EDIT:  Worth noting I have a 130 watt CO2 laser cutter/engraving table, along with tons of woodworking equipment, and a moderate 3D modeling ability

Personally I'd tune between 32-34. It will get down to about 26-28 nicely and still do well up to 45-50 hz (Depending on where you have your cutoff set at). 

 

Regarding mid volume and upper volume limits would depend on what you are running for the front stage of your set up (Tweeter, mid range, mid bass). Too much power to the subs will drown out anything up front. This could be a good or bad thing. The amount of space that you are listing seems quite small and really limits the subwoofer choices and the amount of output you will get. I agree with JoeX a trunk build will be ideal and gives you the room for a decent sized enclosure backed up with a decent power amplifier.

 

For types of subs there are many. For your budget range of $500-700. I'd say go with brazillian board amp. They tend to be cheaper but still put out good power. For subs that's a tough one. If you are sticking with the space you have given, then your only real option is to go with a slim subwoofer but that limits your power handling. If you go with a trunk build, there are many options to choose from that are between $200-250 (each) and have decent power handling of 500-1000 watts rms .
 

 

[Been out of the game a LONG time, have a great idea, feel overwhelmed on where to start with box design]

20 hours ago, TexRob said:

I used to be into car audio in the mid 90s.  When I was big into car audio and working at a shop doing installs and sales, a little Autotek amp that was tiny was a big deal, Svaard came out of nowhere and was the first real "no name" brand that came out of nowhere and took on the scene that I can remember, and I think that has continued since?

 

I've loosely followed stuff since, but have only done aftermarket head units and drop in speaker replacements if anything, in my wife and my cars over the past couple of decades.  I have a killer home theater setup that I kind of nailed.  I was enjoying it recently, and it reminded me of how I used to always have that level of audio in my car.

 

So, my last really unique install was an 8" sub that replaced the armrest in the back seat of my car at the time.  That solo 8 in a tiny box did great, but I never threw a lot of power at it, and I think the box was always too small (even though I specifically found a sub that could work in a tiny box).  I knew a guy who had a car with subs that fired at your back, behind the seat that always hit so hard, and provided that kick I really love.  So, fast forward to today, I drive a 2011 WRX sedan.  I've decided I want to build a box that basically turns the rear footwell into a big box.  It doesn't all have to be a chamber, but it will be topped with a piece that fits up against the rear seat surface.  How would you all approach this?  Design the box to fit the space, then worry about finalizing the interior space via some other means?  How would that look?  is there a modern solution to this?  I did this as a teen, so while I have experience in it, I guarantee you I didn't do stuff great back then.  How would you all port something like this?  I'll upload some designs at some point, but to get this started, the base would be roughly 18"x8", so I'm wondering if porting from the side of the box would work since that's my longest side?  The speakers would be facing the seat back, and I was thinking the ports facing inwards towards the centerline of the car.  I'd probably cover this area and connect the two side across the hump in the middle, but port into the open air below that.  Hopefully this makes sense.

 

What do you all think about this design?  I'll probably hide the amp under a seat or somewhere on the box where it's not seen if that works out.  Realistically I won't be starting this for a while, I think I have a blown head gasket, so, priorities.  This will definitely be budget, and flash means nothing to me as I will be trying to make it pretty stealth as far as the final look (carpet the box to blend in with the seats, etc.  I've done some 8" sub research, and it really just seems to depend on how much money and wattage you want to spend.  Right now, I have no subs in my car, so, lets be realistic.  I'm thinking like $500-700 for subs and amp is what I'd like to spend, not counting wood, carpet, wiring, etc.  So, any ideas you all have for subs and amp, or even different size subs, etc.  I've heard about some 6.5" subs that get low apparently?

Welcome back into the bass game! The equipment that is available today compared to back then is far superior and should be able to fit within your budget.

 

The first thing I would ask myself is what do I like to listen to. Do I want all around musicality? Lows? A bit of both?

 

The next thing I would try and figure out is how much net area I have available for my enclosure. This will dictate the direction that you go for the subwoofer. If you only have 1 cubic ft space, chances are you're going with a smaller woofer. Most subwoofers can get low but that's all enclosure design. When you know how much space you have you can determine if you want to go sealed, ported or into another type of enclosure.

 

You'll want to make sure you get a enclosure designed for your subwoofer and what tuning you'd like. Don't go cookie cutter box. They will work but won't be exactly what you want. 

 

I had a dual 8" set up tuned to 32hz and it was pretty amazing. I'm sure you could make something work with smaller woofers.

[Wanna try a 4th order]

On 11/14/2023 at 7:27 PM, ehall8702 said:

So ive built a few hundred enclosures in the last 27 years of installing, never have i attempted a 4th order. Just casually reading , my newest sub ( avatar stu 12) seems to be a good canadite for this. Havent looked yet but thinj the qts of my xr 12 is .4 which if i understand right may be a good one to. try also. Ive read 2:1 ratio anf the hell woth ratio also. I wouldnt mind trying something musical for my XR i could put in my wifes yukon tonreplace the old 3xl in a belva prefab (tuned to like mid 40s), i can hardly tell qhen she turns the bass knob up! She needs more ummph and i wamma try building something different at the same time. Always been a solid slot port guy just nc they do thier job and have thier own structural support built in. 

Questions are 

1 will the XR d2 be a good sub to start with

2 would the STU 12 d1 be better

3 what is ideal port area and sealed to ported ratio 

 

 

I haven't looked into their sub parameters to see if they are good. I can only suggest to get someone to design an enclosure for you (or go with a program that can give you data back on how the box will theoretically perform). I have a tough time when people go with general port areas and ratios. Just because it plays doesn't mean it's right or optimal.

[Help needed with my DC Audio system - Level 6 18", 5K, Limitless, etc.]

4 hours ago, HybridNistico said:

Hey guys,

 

I'm not sure if these forums are completely dead, but I'm going to give this a go.  I'm looking for help.  Here is a rundown of my setup:

 

2017 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab Sport

Big 4, Singer 300A alternator, Limitless Lithium 6K, all 2/0 wiring, solid grounds

OEM head unit w/ PAC AmpPRO 6-channel integration/RCA outs

DC 5K and DC 90.4

JL Audio 3 way separates up front, JL audio co-axials in rear

DC Audio Level 6 18" in a Kerf Customs 5.5' cubic foot box tuned to 34hz (dual 2 ohm in parallel for 1 ohm mono load)

Doing 148.2 on the dash at 33-34hz

 

I recently started playing with an SMD AMM-1.  Prior to the AMM-1, I was using a clamp meter and multi-meter to get an approximate power level going to the sub and figured it was around 1,500 watts which I wasn't thrilled with.

 

Now, with the AMM-1, it's even worse because of the Power Factor calculation.  At the end of the day, I'm seeing around 800 watts and *I think* 7-8 ohms at 40hz.  At 60hz, I saw 2,500 watts at about 2 ohms.  At 30-35 hz, I'm literally maxing out at 7-800 watts before clipping.  Something is not adding up.  I watched for voltage at the Limitless 6K, and starting voltage was around 14.2, and during the run, the lowest I could get it to drop to was somewhere in the low 12's.  This was also surprising to see the Limitless drop to low 12's on voltage when it's rated for 6k+ watts, and it was happening during 7-800 watt runs.

 

The system is pretty loud and gets violent in the cabin at 33-34hz, but I'm really wondering if I'm leaving *a lot* on the table by missing something huge.  These numbers aren't adding up to me and figured someone here may be able to help me troubleshoot?  Thanks so much in advance!

 

I agree something isn't addiing up. I'm surprised that your impedance rise goes up to 4 ohms or so on a 1 ohm load. I was running 6k rms (rated power not AMM-1) at 2 ohm load and at or close to tuning frequency was at 5.2 ohms (6k rms amp rating down to 2,800 watts on the subs with the AMM-1). In my testing of a few systems that I've set up for myself and a couple that I've helped tune I've never had impedance rise go that high (except maybe at some lower volumes and higher frequencies). 

 

One thing you could check out is the settings on your amp (if if you're running it through a DSP). I was also running a taramps smart 3 and even with some minor adjustments to the low pass filter etc it made a big difference on low end performance, rms output and db's.

[Aeroport general rules to follow?]

@1point21gigawattsLots of wildfires where I’m at. 253 active ones. 

[Box help]

That port is way too small. You should be looking at between 12-16 sq in of port are per cubic foot of box volume. I'm at 24.5 sq inch of port area for my 2 8's and it's just a tad too small. I am assuming you entered in the size of the port you wanted to build because that website and calculator allow you to enter the values. It's not telling you the size. It "blindly" gives you the length based on the parameters you tell it. 

 

Another thing that I'm assuming you didnt allow for is deducting the port area and length (so again cubic ft) from the box volume. Your port volume is quite small so it probably didn't make much of a difference. I'm sure there are a few other guys that could weigh in on this (I'd consider myself a noob for box design and building but I think most of what I have said is true)