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pnutz37

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pnutz37 last won the day on November 17 2020

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About pnutz37

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    120db

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    Vancouver, Canada

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  1. That port is way too small. You should be looking at between 12-16 sq in of port are per cubic foot of box volume. I'm at 24.5 sq inch of port area for my 2 8's and it's just a tad too small. I am assuming you entered in the size of the port you wanted to build because that website and calculator allow you to enter the values. It's not telling you the size. It "blindly" gives you the length based on the parameters you tell it. Another thing that I'm assuming you didnt allow for is deducting the port area and length (so again cubic ft) from the box volume. Your port volume is quite
  2. You did try to get me to tune higher. I like the lows what can I say. I will mess around with box placement to get them numbers up.
  3. I have it tuned for 34 hz. I couldn’t bring myself to tune it higher
  4. This is my other daily driver (Volkswagen GTI). Wanted to do a small set up and leave some room in the hatch. Well that went sideways very quickly.... First I'd like to thank @1point21gigawatts for the countless hours he spent with helping me on chosing the amp, helping with box design, box finish etc. Dude knows his stuff and is willing to help on his own time. It started as a single amp and single 12 setup. It morphed as I got a good deal on the 8" subs and wanted to do something different. For this "final" set up I'm running a Taramps MD3000 2ohm. Dual 8
  5. I'm assuming your'e going to be building a new box for these subs? If you have to pay for the box build and new subs, what will the increase in cost be between that and increasing your power?
  6. I'm sure other guys will weigh in on this but there are a few questions to ask as well. Is the box ported? Sealed? Bandpass? You could be on the money for box design but I've seen a few boxes that end up having different spec's than what the manufacturer suggests and difference is noticeable. If increasing the power isn't an option you can always adjust box placement and depending on the box design (if the subs are facing the same way as the port), you could have them facing a different direction. The other usual questions would be upgraded alternator? Battery,
  7. My parents own a 2013 Rav 4. It's been a very reliable vehicle. The only thing that has happened was the A/C compressor crapped out. If you like I can check the voltage on the car to see how it holds the voltage with the lights and heater on etc. I can also have a look to see if the alternator is easy to access. They do have a nice hatch space that would let you build a nice box for your set up. Let me know.
  8. I can try that to see if makes a difference. I also have the abilty to lengthen the port. I could lower the tuning or raise depending on what I want to do. I think I will be testing at 100% first before I succumb to adjusting my port size and lengths. It's a loud daily driver based on the looks I get at the stop lights....
  9. The port is your 2nd line item so potentially tuned at 29.5. I know that this vehicle behave a bit different compared to what I've done in the past. There isn't much space for wave development for the lower frequencies either.
  10. Sorry I didn't respond earlier but I don't have the info at my home computer. Box net volume including port 11.7 cubic ft. Port Volume 1.21 cubic feet. (Port Length 28" Port Width 4" Port Depth 31") Sub displacement .17 cubic feet. Net Volume for the enclosure 10.15 Port was designed for 34 hz. DB Drive asks for 8.4 cubic feet for enclosure and 38hz tuning. The FS for the sub is 38hz.
  11. I do have an AMM-1, SSA SPL meter and signal generator. The enclosure was tuned to 35 hz. That being said 52 hz is my lowest impedance at 2.4 ohms at half volume. Unfortunately this is not ideal for getting the most SPL for me at the moment. I like that it's almost 150 at 32 hz on a non-wall or 4th/6th order. I've been mostly windows up to know what the car can do if I do a competition. I did a few sweep tests in August and windows open or closed didn't change significantly. I'm sure I have created alot of "holes" in my cars envelope due to my previous system (4 12's on
  12. I've definitely noticed the temperature affecting how loud it is on my testing. My car flexes a lot especially at the windshield (no additional bracing yet). The subs are fairly new (less than 6 months old). I don't hammer them all the time. Most of the time I play at 15-25%. I do bass-bys at my friends houses and turn it to half. That gets me to 145-146 db on music for certain songs. When I do my testing it's pretty quick burts and changing frequencies.
  13. New high on db. No changes to my volume settings (still 75%). But it was a colder day. 7 Celsius (44.6 Fahrenheit). Looks like the colder the temperatures are giving me better scores.
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