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About pnutz37

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  1. Meaning the time it takes for the pour foam to set (it’s a delayed reaction vs using a spray foam where you spray 1/8-1/4” and it only expands to 2-2.5 inch). If pour takes too long to set it will expand later and longer. Tougher to figure out when to stop pouring. If it starts setting too soon, the opposite. The other thing is the mixture. If your iso / resin heavy it will change that as well. Good to test pour in a bucket to get an idea.
  2. I can't respond to the fiberglass portion but I can speak on the polyurethane foam. If you're using pour foam, you can do it all at once. The issue with the pour foam is knowing the pour rate to where you get to the expansion you want. You can do it with layers (Ideally you do it all in one). You may want to fill most of the void with pour foam and use spray foam to work the areas that you'll have to do cutting and trimming. 16# foam will be nasty to cut and shape. If you're using 4,8# you want to spray foam in passes (2-2.5" per pass). Not doing the foam in passes could cause the foam to self ignite (This is not the case in pour foam). The reason you do this is because of the exothermic reaction of the foam. Let the foam cool for 5 minutes or so between each pass (10-15 minutes is ideal). The other issue with not doing passes is the off-gassing. You could be trapping the gasses and it will continue to off-gas because the gasses can't escape (You can see the foam "horror" stories for work done on houses where they continued smell after install). The foam will be inert 24hrs after install if completed correctly.
  3. You did understand me correctly about the windshield flex. Don't get me wrong there is lots of flex at the roof/windshield location but I think that gets transferred down the windshield to where there is more flex towards the bottom. I'm going to remove the A-Pillar trim to see what I have going on and either reinforce or deaden what I can. The next step would be a stripper pole but i'm not to keen on doing that at the moment. I think I will need to do it in order to gain db's. I'll have to see how testing goes with the new windshield and run it at max volume. I'm still running my subwoofer volume from my DSP at -10db for the tests (my dsp goes from -40db to 0db). Depending on the temperature my frequencies fluctuate up or down a few hz. When I broke the windshield it was at 44hz @147.75 db. My current peak is 147.8 db at 36hz. I'm probably going to push it more in the next week or so to see what my true max would be. I've been running sweeps most of the time but I may try to do a bunch of burp tests to see if that changes anything.
  4. When my windshield broke a few weeks ago it was at 147.75 @ 44 hz. Mine broke at the A Pillar where the A Pillar meets the 1/4 panel framing (About 8 up from the bottom of the windshield. My guess is it's because the 2 different parts of the frame have different rigidity at that point. My port is rear facing and 12 inch from the hatch so my loading is a bit different than yours. I have quite a bit of flex at the roof/windshield junction but where I noticed the most flex was where my windshield broke. I'm going to have to deaden that area significantly. There is a guy local to me who has an Echo that's hitting 154's on one15 inch off a Taramp (Not sure if it's a 15k or 20k). He has a stripper pole and has deadened everything and broke his windshield at similar volumes as you have (Not sure the frequency though). I think we will have a tough time keeping our cars from falling apart in general
  5. Here's a few photos of what has been installed in my daily driver. Headunit: Kenwood DMX905S Processor: Helix DSP Pro & Director Amplifiers: 2 Helix G-Four (Fronts and Mid Bass), 2 Hertz 3001 (6k watts at 2ohm) Subs: 2 15" DB Drive WDX 5G Mid Bass: 2 6.5" Helix P6b Mid range: 2 2.5" Audio Frog GB25 Tweeter: 2 1" Helix C1T Batteries: 3 - 1 stock engine bay, 2 Northstar AGM 34M Alternator: Quality Power 300 amp Thanks to 1point21gigawatts for taking the time to answer my questions and advice on the subs i am using etc.
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