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pnutz37

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pnutz37 last won the day on March 14

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  1. I did not go the LOC route. I have a helix Dsp with high level input. And yes that was the only issue I had. We even adjusted the internal resistance of the DSP. Otherwise it would have been perfect im definitely lucky on having an easier time to get an aftermarket headunit with trim plate
  2. I have a VW Golf (2017). It has the basic entertainment system. I wanted to go with a high level to my DSP. I had nothing but problems going that route. The VW head unit is looking for a specific resistance at the speakers. I was constantly getting distortion coming in and out depending on the recording and song (It would happen multiple times through a song). This happened on multiple music platforms. It didn't matter how we set the headunit eq or volume at. If it was flat, below flat, frequencies turned down or up. It always came back to distorting at some point. I did get the work completed through a reputable shop and was thankful that all the diagnosis did not cost me anything. There is a unit that can be installed that integrates the VW head unit and has RCA outputs (I don't remember what it is) Ultimately I had went to the aftermarket headunit. Zero issues since.
  3. I have gone through a few set ups in this car since my last post of a few years ago. I've had 2 DC Level 5 12" in a 6th order and now a Single X10 in a 4th order. Lots of data collected. I like the lows and I find it tough to get away from that. also like getting decent numbers. I've settled on the 4th order to get me that on relatively "low" power. Score is meter on the glass. Windows up. On Music.
  4. Personally I'd tune between 32-34. It will get down to about 26-28 nicely and still do well up to 45-50 hz (Depending on where you have your cutoff set at). Regarding mid volume and upper volume limits would depend on what you are running for the front stage of your set up (Tweeter, mid range, mid bass). Too much power to the subs will drown out anything up front. This could be a good or bad thing. The amount of space that you are listing seems quite small and really limits the subwoofer choices and the amount of output you will get. I agree with JoeX a trunk build will be ideal and gives you the room for a decent sized enclosure backed up with a decent power amplifier. For types of subs there are many. For your budget range of $500-700. I'd say go with brazillian board amp. They tend to be cheaper but still put out good power. For subs that's a tough one. If you are sticking with the space you have given, then your only real option is to go with a slim subwoofer but that limits your power handling. If you go with a trunk build, there are many options to choose from that are between $200-250 (each) and have decent power handling of 500-1000 watts rms .
  5. Welcome back into the bass game! The equipment that is available today compared to back then is far superior and should be able to fit within your budget. The first thing I would ask myself is what do I like to listen to. Do I want all around musicality? Lows? A bit of both? The next thing I would try and figure out is how much net area I have available for my enclosure. This will dictate the direction that you go for the subwoofer. If you only have 1 cubic ft space, chances are you're going with a smaller woofer. Most subwoofers can get low but that's all enclosure design. When you know how much space you have you can determine if you want to go sealed, ported or into another type of enclosure. You'll want to make sure you get a enclosure designed for your subwoofer and what tuning you'd like. Don't go cookie cutter box. They will work but won't be exactly what you want. I had a dual 8" set up tuned to 32hz and it was pretty amazing. I'm sure you could make something work with smaller woofers.
  6. I haven't looked into their sub parameters to see if they are good. I can only suggest to get someone to design an enclosure for you (or go with a program that can give you data back on how the box will theoretically perform). I have a tough time when people go with general port areas and ratios. Just because it plays doesn't mean it's right or optimal.
  7. I agree something isn't addiing up. I'm surprised that your impedance rise goes up to 4 ohms or so on a 1 ohm load. I was running 6k rms (rated power not AMM-1) at 2 ohm load and at or close to tuning frequency was at 5.2 ohms (6k rms amp rating down to 2,800 watts on the subs with the AMM-1). In my testing of a few systems that I've set up for myself and a couple that I've helped tune I've never had impedance rise go that high (except maybe at some lower volumes and higher frequencies). One thing you could check out is the settings on your amp (if if you're running it through a DSP). I was also running a taramps smart 3 and even with some minor adjustments to the low pass filter etc it made a big difference on low end performance, rms output and db's.
  8. @1point21gigawattsLots of wildfires where I’m at. 253 active ones.
  9. That port is way too small. You should be looking at between 12-16 sq in of port are per cubic foot of box volume. I'm at 24.5 sq inch of port area for my 2 8's and it's just a tad too small. I am assuming you entered in the size of the port you wanted to build because that website and calculator allow you to enter the values. It's not telling you the size. It "blindly" gives you the length based on the parameters you tell it. Another thing that I'm assuming you didnt allow for is deducting the port area and length (so again cubic ft) from the box volume. Your port volume is quite small so it probably didn't make much of a difference. I'm sure there are a few other guys that could weigh in on this (I'd consider myself a noob for box design and building but I think most of what I have said is true)
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