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pnutz37

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pnutz37 last won the day on November 17

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About pnutz37

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    Vancouver, Canada

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  1. My parents own a 2013 Rav 4. It's been a very reliable vehicle. The only thing that has happened was the A/C compressor crapped out. If you like I can check the voltage on the car to see how it holds the voltage with the lights and heater on etc. I can also have a look to see if the alternator is easy to access. They do have a nice hatch space that would let you build a nice box for your set up. Let me know.
  2. I can try that to see if makes a difference. I also have the abilty to lengthen the port. I could lower the tuning or raise depending on what I want to do. I think I will be testing at 100% first before I succumb to adjusting my port size and lengths. It's a loud daily driver based on the looks I get at the stop lights....
  3. The port is your 2nd line item so potentially tuned at 29.5. I know that this vehicle behave a bit different compared to what I've done in the past. There isn't much space for wave development for the lower frequencies either.
  4. Sorry I didn't respond earlier but I don't have the info at my home computer. Box net volume including port 11.7 cubic ft. Port Volume 1.21 cubic feet. (Port Length 28" Port Width 4" Port Depth 31") Sub displacement .17 cubic feet. Net Volume for the enclosure 10.15 Port was designed for 34 hz. DB Drive asks for 8.4 cubic feet for enclosure and 38hz tuning. The FS for the sub is 38hz.
  5. I do have an AMM-1, SSA SPL meter and signal generator. The enclosure was tuned to 35 hz. That being said 52 hz is my lowest impedance at 2.4 ohms at half volume. Unfortunately this is not ideal for getting the most SPL for me at the moment. I like that it's almost 150 at 32 hz on a non-wall or 4th/6th order. I've been mostly windows up to know what the car can do if I do a competition. I did a few sweep tests in August and windows open or closed didn't change significantly. I'm sure I have created alot of "holes" in my cars envelope due to my previous system (4 12's on
  6. I've definitely noticed the temperature affecting how loud it is on my testing. My car flexes a lot especially at the windshield (no additional bracing yet). The subs are fairly new (less than 6 months old). I don't hammer them all the time. Most of the time I play at 15-25%. I do bass-bys at my friends houses and turn it to half. That gets me to 145-146 db on music for certain songs. When I do my testing it's pretty quick burts and changing frequencies.
  7. New high on db. No changes to my volume settings (still 75%). But it was a colder day. 7 Celsius (44.6 Fahrenheit). Looks like the colder the temperatures are giving me better scores.
  8. Love your build thread btw. Looks pretty bad ass. I invested in an AMM-1 meter recently so I can start figuring all this out. My manufacturers rated power for my set up is 6k watts at 2 ohms (Subs are rated 3k rms each). I'm sitting at 2.8 ohms for my dyno power at 1828 watts (1/2 volume). If I had less impedence rise, maybe I get close to my rated power at half. if I understood more of this earlier I would have gone in a different direction.
  9. So the SMD AMM-1 arrived last week. I didn't get a chance to do som.e preliminary testing until today. Amps Hertz HP3001 x 2 - Rated at 6000 W RMS at 2 ohms Windows Sealed. 28hz and 51/52 hz were the most efficient frequencies for my set up 2.4 ohms and 2.8 ohms respectively. Dyno Power for this set up at 1/2 sub volume on my DSP was 1828 Watts at 51 hz (This was the most power I achieved while going through the frequencies). From a set up standpoint there could be numerous things I could change to make it more efficient. Run lower ohm subs, change the tu
  10. So currently I'm sitting at 148.05 @ 36hz hertz. (Still at 75% sub volume) The temperature has been a bit cooler. I am making the assumption that as the days get cooler I may be able to get some gains. I've also noticed that my scores have been going up doing burps vs sine sweeps. AMM-1 dyno has been ordered so I can provide some real world numbers on these amps (Seeing as i haven't found too many people running them or any non-manufacturer info on them)
  11. Meaning the time it takes for the pour foam to set (it’s a delayed reaction vs using a spray foam where you spray 1/8-1/4” and it only expands to 2-2.5 inch). If pour takes too long to set it will expand later and longer. Tougher to figure out when to stop pouring. If it starts setting too soon, the opposite. The other thing is the mixture. If your iso / resin heavy it will change that as well. Good to test pour in a bucket to get an idea.
  12. I can't respond to the fiberglass portion but I can speak on the polyurethane foam. If you're using pour foam, you can do it all at once. The issue with the pour foam is knowing the pour rate to where you get to the expansion you want. You can do it with layers (Ideally you do it all in one). You may want to fill most of the void with pour foam and use spray foam to work the areas that you'll have to do cutting and trimming. 16# foam will be nasty to cut and shape. If you're using 4,8# you want to spray foam in passes (2-2.5" per pass). Not doing the foam in passes could cause the
  13. You did understand me correctly about the windshield flex. Don't get me wrong there is lots of flex at the roof/windshield location but I think that gets transferred down the windshield to where there is more flex towards the bottom. I'm going to remove the A-Pillar trim to see what I have going on and either reinforce or deaden what I can. The next step would be a stripper pole but i'm not to keen on doing that at the moment. I think I will need to do it in order to gain db's. I'll have to see how testing goes with the new windshield and run it at max volume. I'm stil
  14. When my windshield broke a few weeks ago it was at 147.75 @ 44 hz. Mine broke at the A Pillar where the A Pillar meets the 1/4 panel framing (About 8 up from the bottom of the windshield. My guess is it's because the 2 different parts of the frame have different rigidity at that point. My port is rear facing and 12 inch from the hatch so my loading is a bit different than yours. I have quite a bit of flex at the roof/windshield junction but where I noticed the most flex was where my windshield broke. I'm going to have to deaden that area significantly. There is a guy
  15. To preface. This is a daily driver build. Not going for SPL numbers but I want to know what I can achieve. So as I've been testing i've noticed a few things. I haven't cranked it to 100%. I'm about 75%. Currently 147.63 db at 35 hz. The warmer the temperatures the SPL numbers seem to go up slightly around 0.50-.75 db. Windows up or windows down hasn't affected my SPL numbers significantly (0.30--0.50. db). The weird thing that has happened is that my peak frequency has continually gotten lower. The baseline db and frequency has been fairly consistent.
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