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pnutz37 last won the day on December 24 2021

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  1. There's a USB cable from the DSP and you plug it into your laptop. You can do all your adjusting from there (That's for the Helix specifically). It's all software based for any changes you want to make to the EQ, DB level adjustment for the speakers after your gains have been set (For example, I have my tweeters set at -7.5 db, mids at -10 db). All my gains were scoped at 0 db and we made the adjustments for when music is playing. You have RTA for all speakers (including subwoofer). Many more features that I don't even get into. It also has a digital clipping notification so you'll know if you're clipping while you're adjusting your speaker levels on the software.
  2. I don't have any photos of it installed where it is located right now. I have it hidden and not easily accessed. I am going to be doing a tear down and change my current set up. I could take a photo when I start the process. It's going to be approximately 2 weeks before I do though.
  3. Don’t get the director if you are running anything that’s 140 db and louder on a consistent basis. There’s a spring / potentiometer issue that will come up. Happened to me. Had to send back to for warranty but won’t use for a loud build
  4. The price point is definitely on the higher side. I've been lucky to have gotten them at good prices. But it's something to think about for another build or the future.
  5. A controller is what does master volume and usually there's a separate knob/function for bass or it can be one button where when you push it in it swaps over to the sub volume. The mode button switches between tunes. You're also correct in how it works (For my helix anyway). Single RCA in to the DSP and your output from the DSP goes to the amplifiers. I had a 10 channel and have since downsized to 8 channel. Based on what you're wanting to do, a 6 channel would be ideal, 2 channels for mids, 2 channels for highs and then sub channel. I know that the helix DSP's are more expensive than most but they make up for it with a fairly easy format to do the tuning, RTA, etc
  6. I agree with Kyblack76. DSP is the way to go. Some are easier to use than others. I currently run the Helix DSP3s. I ran their DSP Pro previous to this. I'm not sure about other DSP's but the depending on the controller you use (based on manufacturers platform), you can have multiple set ups instead of having to constantly adjust your settings for the music you're listening to. I currently have 2 set ups. SPL for burps only and then a daily. I have since purchased their Conductor which allows 10 set ups to be saved. Most of what I use is to adjust bass levels to the types of music I listen to.
  7. I’m going with a helix m6. I run a few of their amps already. I have a more spl set up for my bass but a bit SQ in other areas.
  8. Yet another sacrifice... On music i'd guess I was 143-144 db at 29 hz.
  9. Brand X makes numerous ones that fit your car. I have the same vehicle. You’ll need a different sized belt if you go over 220 (240?) amp
  10. Resilient sounds 8" handle decent power. I'm running the same subs as you only 2. They are really nice
  11. New testing yesterday. Got a new high on the meter. Got a new windshield lol
  12. I'll have to look into this option. I just don't want to spend more $$ than I already have trying to find a solution. I can get access to the VCDS cable (The software is free). It allows coding for so many things on volkswagen/audi/skoda platform. It does data logs for tuning etc.. It's an all encompassing coding tool. Some items are easy to adjust (on / off) other items require the correct code.... I home mine is easy.....
  13. To follow up on this. I got my new DSP installed and there still is distortion coming through from the stock headunit after about 15 on the volume (The volume goes to 30). This is with the eq flat as well. Anything louder than 15 would go to distortion. Because it's a VW there's a chance I can use VCDS (Their coding interface) to gain access to the head unit and actually flatten the eq vs what the display says. It's been an expensive and frustrating rabbit hole. In the end it works, no distortion on any channel and feel comfortable sending it.
  14. The issue that I have (And you may have similar - i'm in a 2017 VW Golf). Some of the newer stock head units need to see a certain resistance at the speakers when sending the signal. When using high level to DSP this changes. My DSP does not offer enough resistance for the head unit therefore it sends more signal to achieve the volume I'm set at. Then I get all sorts of distortion for my front stage. This occurs in newer BMW cars and the shop I go to has a few work arounds to combat this issue. Most of them involve getting the correct DSP or a DSP amplifier. I do know some of the Audiocontrol DSP's (LCi 2 Pro and LCi 7) work for this as well.
  15. What year and type of vehicle? What DSP? I'm assuming you're running high level to the DSP? I am having issues with this type of set up and I'm just trying to figure out if you're having the same.
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