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pnutz37

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pnutz37 last won the day on November 17 2020

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  1. Ideally you want a a single sub to handle 2000-2500 rms or 2 subs to handle 2000-2500 rms in total (if you want to be safe) . I have run the Smart 3 on a few set ups and it was running about 2200-2500 rms at 2.5/2.7 ohms after impedance rise.
  2. I agree something isn't addiing up. I'm surprised that your impedance rise goes up to 4 ohms or so on a 1 ohm load. I was running 6k rms (rated power not AMM-1) at 2 ohm load and at or close to tuning frequency was at 5.2 ohms (6k rms amp rating down to 2,800 watts on the subs with the AMM-1). In my testing of a few systems that I've set up for myself and a couple that I've helped tune I've never had impedance rise go that high (except maybe at some lower volumes and higher frequencies). One thing you could check out is the settings on your amp (if if you're running it through a DSP). I was also running a taramps smart 3 and even with some minor adjustments to the low pass filter etc it made a big difference on low end performance, rms output and db's.
  3. I was running the same Helix component set in my Toyota Yaris and they were great (I also had a 3" audio frog mid range). I ran the tweeter and mid range from 1 G-Four and the mid bass to the 6.5" with the other G-Four. Can I assuming that you don't have a subwoofer? I had my mid bass cut off at 80 hz with a 12db roll off on my DSP. The 2 way set up will sound well off the 1 amp but you maybe pushing the 6.5" if your set up going to be tuned below 55-60hz.
  4. @1point21gigawattsLots of wildfires where I’m at. 253 active ones.
  5. That port is way too small. You should be looking at between 12-16 sq in of port are per cubic foot of box volume. I'm at 24.5 sq inch of port area for my 2 8's and it's just a tad too small. I am assuming you entered in the size of the port you wanted to build because that website and calculator allow you to enter the values. It's not telling you the size. It "blindly" gives you the length based on the parameters you tell it. Another thing that I'm assuming you didnt allow for is deducting the port area and length (so again cubic ft) from the box volume. Your port volume is quite small so it probably didn't make much of a difference. I'm sure there are a few other guys that could weigh in on this (I'd consider myself a noob for box design and building but I think most of what I have said is true)
  6. You did try to get me to tune higher. I like the lows what can I say. I will mess around with box placement to get them numbers up.
  7. I have it tuned for 34 hz. I couldn’t bring myself to tune it higher
  8. This is my other daily driver (Volkswagen GTI). Wanted to do a small set up and leave some room in the hatch. Well that went sideways very quickly.... First I'd like to thank @1point21gigawatts for the countless hours he spent with helping me on chosing the amp, helping with box design, box finish etc. Dude knows his stuff and is willing to help on his own time. It started as a single amp and single 12 setup. It morphed as I got a good deal on the 8" subs and wanted to do something different. For this "final" set up I'm running a Taramps MD3000 2ohm. Dual 8" WDXG5 subs, 75ah front agm, 100 ah rear agm. 140 amp alternator. Kenwood DMX 706s headunit I was hoping to get to 140db. There are still a few tweaks I can do to try and get there.
  9. I'm assuming your'e going to be building a new box for these subs? If you have to pay for the box build and new subs, what will the increase in cost be between that and increasing your power?
  10. I'm sure other guys will weigh in on this but there are a few questions to ask as well. Is the box ported? Sealed? Bandpass? You could be on the money for box design but I've seen a few boxes that end up having different spec's than what the manufacturer suggests and difference is noticeable. If increasing the power isn't an option you can always adjust box placement and depending on the box design (if the subs are facing the same way as the port), you could have them facing a different direction. The other usual questions would be upgraded alternator? Battery, lithium or cap bank? Is the system clamp tested (Multimeter) or dyno tested (AD-1 meter). My amps were clamp tested and I was told a high number (More than what manual said I could do). I bought an AD-1 and the numbers are much lower after impedence rise. I also had to figure out what frequencies have the lowest resistance etc.
  11. My parents own a 2013 Rav 4. It's been a very reliable vehicle. The only thing that has happened was the A/C compressor crapped out. If you like I can check the voltage on the car to see how it holds the voltage with the lights and heater on etc. I can also have a look to see if the alternator is easy to access. They do have a nice hatch space that would let you build a nice box for your set up. Let me know.
  12. I can try that to see if makes a difference. I also have the abilty to lengthen the port. I could lower the tuning or raise depending on what I want to do. I think I will be testing at 100% first before I succumb to adjusting my port size and lengths. It's a loud daily driver based on the looks I get at the stop lights....
  13. The port is your 2nd line item so potentially tuned at 29.5. I know that this vehicle behave a bit different compared to what I've done in the past. There isn't much space for wave development for the lower frequencies either.
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