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Phuzun last won the day on August 15 2021

Phuzun had the most liked content!

About Phuzun

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    North Dakota
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    Running, PC gaming, doggos

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  1. For SPL setups, tap into the high voltage for the amps would be the best way for big power. 100 amp cable goes way further at 250+ volts as well. This would have other challenges. Amp designs and other accessories would need to really protect from current exposure, also need to use something like a pyro-fuse instead of the traditional types. I'm sure teams will figure this out, though it will likely not make it further unless some kind of standard is made for easily tapping into the power vs what you'd have to play with today (like in that Fiat video). For doing high power 12v systems, you could always go heavy on Ah batteries to make up for the small DC-DC convertors in an EV. You plug the car in anyways, run a quick connect to the 12v by the charge port and do a 12v charger as well. Most EVs and hybrids have 100 amp DC-DC in place of an alternator, so not going to keep up with a sustained high power. Sound quality is way easier in EVs though. Once you've sound deadened the vehicle, the noise floor is eerily quiet at speed and many also have the insulated glass. DSPs are going to be pretty essential with all the factory processing. Entry level hobbyist doing their entire speaker setup is probably over if that continues into low end EVs, though the sub/amp combo will likely still be simple enough to keep people in the hobby.
  2. Bridged from the 4 channels on t1000x5ad for the front ones. Mounted with 1/2" birch ply for a bracket and rivnuts to the factory location. I'm really happy with them and would recommend them. They sound great using 55hz LR-24db high pass. Haven't decided where I'll keep the lowpass yet, just did 500hz since I knew the Audiofrogs can play to that.
  3. Possibly 3 miles every hour. Nothing noticable. Sadly, that car was in an accident and totaled. Got my amp rack and sub out to use in my new vehicle. Got a Rav4 hybrid, Fi N.7 front doors and audiofrog gs25 in dash. Minidsp 8x12v2 (first time with any dsp, this is great) into the rockford T400-4 and a T1000x5ad. Was able to simply grab the full range signal off the front dash speaker into a harness, then ran speaker wire to the new speakers. Front dash speaker also feeds the front doors on the factory wiring, and the right dash speaker also includes the audio for vehicle features (all retained). Rear doors have a connector in the boot, so I'll need to do a t-harness into the factory wire somewhere, since I'd like to not cut anything. This headunit will do 192khz 2ch in lossless and android auto, so not horrible since that is staying stock.
  4. That doesn't have an alternator, it uses a DC/DC convertor like an electric vehicle. I have no idea what the fuse is on that, my Nissan Leaf has 100 amp and has none of the issues with alternators when load hits. Efficiency is going to be the most important thing about getting loud with the limited 12v system. You may also want to check how the voltage is output. On my Leaf, it is normally 12.8v unless certain accessories like seat heaters and windshield wipers get activated or it is charging from the wall, then it kicks up to 14.4v. There may also be sensors on the battery that prevent the battery to ground "big 3" upgrade. While I did upgrade my battery to AGM of the same size, it didn't seem to change anything and I mostly did it because it was a 7 year old OEM. Between my R2-500x1 and T400-4, the voltage never drops even through sustained bass heavy tracks. Provided you don't go over the amperage that DC/DC convertor can handle, you shouldn't have to many issues. If your manual has something about connecting accessories like DC/AC convertors to your battery, that may mention limits if you want to try pushing past the 350-450w range.
  5. Got my woofer, fucking bangs. Drove around listening for an hour and happy to say it was worth the wait.
  6. I got my tracking number from FedEx. Pretty sure it is because I'm signed up with them for alerts to my address.
  7. Got my tracking number and see that it is out on a truck now. Pretty excited to get that thing in my hatch and see how this box sounds.
  8. Grounding that Pac will likely help with the whine if it is pulling the ground through the factory harness. That gives you 6 RCAs right out of the headunit, right? What 4 channel are you running?
  9. Few pictures from my test fit before the panels were glued in and my drawing of the joints used when planning. First box I've ever designed and built myself. Uses 1/2" birch plywood from a local wood supply (gave him the cutlist) with the sides being doubled and the baffle being tripled. Put a line on the picture to show the port shape.
  10. Just noticed I had an email on Friday from Fi that the motor was assembled.
  11. I ordered a 15" X D1 in early August. I got an update at the end of August that the voice coil and spider was complete, then a few weeks ago a message that the steel was done. This is my first Fi sub, so not entirely sure how many stages this goes through. I figured it would be 2 months or so based on orders people had mentioned online around that time. I'm putting this in a 2013 Nissan Leaf with a 4cu ft low 30s tuned box. I've got some FaitalPRO 3FE22 on the dash in temp mdf pods and Dayton 7" reference woofers in the 4 doors. Rockford T400-4 on those and a Rockford R2 500 for my subwoofers, currently a pair of '98 low-end Eclipse 15s.
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