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Phuzun last won the day on August 15

Phuzun had the most liked content!

About Phuzun

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    North Dakota
  • Interests
    Running, PC gaming, doggos

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  1. Bridged from the 4 channels on t1000x5ad for the front ones. Mounted with 1/2" birch ply for a bracket and rivnuts to the factory location. I'm really happy with them and would recommend them. They sound great using 55hz LR-24db high pass. Haven't decided where I'll keep the lowpass yet, just did 500hz since I knew the Audiofrogs can play to that.
  2. Possibly 3 miles every hour. Nothing noticable. Sadly, that car was in an accident and totaled. Got my amp rack and sub out to use in my new vehicle. Got a Rav4 hybrid, Fi N.7 front doors and audiofrog gs25 in dash. Minidsp 8x12v2 (first time with any dsp, this is great) into the rockford T400-4 and a T1000x5ad. Was able to simply grab the full range signal off the front dash speaker into a harness, then ran speaker wire to the new speakers. Front dash speaker also feeds the front doors on the factory wiring, and the right dash speaker also includes the audio for vehicle features (all retained). Rear doors have a connector in the boot, so I'll need to do a t-harness into the factory wire somewhere, since I'd like to not cut anything. This headunit will do 192khz 2ch in lossless and android auto, so not horrible since that is staying stock.
  3. This popped into my recommended listens on Spotify. Hadn't listened to any of his other stuff, gonna need to though. This had my sub moving.
  4. That doesn't have an alternator, it uses a DC/DC convertor like an electric vehicle. I have no idea what the fuse is on that, my Nissan Leaf has 100 amp and has none of the issues with alternators when load hits. Efficiency is going to be the most important thing about getting loud with the limited 12v system. You may also want to check how the voltage is output. On my Leaf, it is normally 12.8v unless certain accessories like seat heaters and windshield wipers get activated or it is charging from the wall, then it kicks up to 14.4v. There may also be sensors on the battery that prevent the battery to ground "big 3" upgrade. While I did upgrade my battery to AGM of the same size, it didn't seem to change anything and I mostly did it because it was a 7 year old OEM. Between my R2-500x1 and T400-4, the voltage never drops even through sustained bass heavy tracks. Provided you don't go over the amperage that DC/DC convertor can handle, you shouldn't have to many issues. If your manual has something about connecting accessories like DC/AC convertors to your battery, that may mention limits if you want to try pushing past the 350-450w range.
  5. Nice that they are an upgrade without full power. Got to drive around a few hours to listen to the Fi that I just got, really happy with the sound as well. Was worth the wait. Really glad I deadened my hatch this summer. I got some of the closed cell deadener to put between the taillight fixtures and body to prevent rubbing the paint. May need to give the spoiler a second look though, thing gets moving.
  6. Got my woofer, fucking bangs. Drove around listening for an hour and happy to say it was worth the wait.
  7. I got my tracking number from FedEx. Pretty sure it is because I'm signed up with them for alerts to my address.
  8. Got my tracking number and see that it is out on a truck now. Pretty excited to get that thing in my hatch and see how this box sounds.
  9. You'd want to get the same woofers as your two ways are using. No reason you can't do a bandpass of midbass range in the rear. Sound deadening and enclosing the front woofers will do a lot, if you haven't already done that.
  10. No, it is a simulation and has no concept of the actual enclosure you physically are designing for a cut list. You need to provide those details as best as possible to the software to test your design and you can figure out the volumes of your enclosure you are thinking of putting together. I believe Term-Pro and possibly other paid software gives you cut sheets. I'd found this site a few months ago. I haven't actually used the results from this site but the recommendations match up pretty close to what WinISD recommends and you can easily use the two to get a design going. These are all simple rectangle shapes, though there are a good variety of type for whatever you are thinking. http://dbdynamixaudio.com/category/calculators/
  11. Grounding that Pac will likely help with the whine if it is pulling the ground through the factory harness. That gives you 6 RCAs right out of the headunit, right? What 4 channel are you running?
  12. Few pictures from my test fit before the panels were glued in and my drawing of the joints used when planning. First box I've ever designed and built myself. Uses 1/2" birch plywood from a local wood supply (gave him the cutlist) with the sides being doubled and the baffle being tripled. Put a line on the picture to show the port shape.
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