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Everything posted by DAN831111

  1. do you reckon 4.2 for the type x's would tidy up the sound alot? would I lose ALOT of the lows like how dramatic would the loss in lows be going from 5.0 to to 4.2 assuming i keep the aeroports tuned to the same tuning roughly? also what would be a perfect size aeroport box for 2 x IDMAX 12's to shine at their best low and loud in your opinion? they would be running off the alpine amps 1k each. *edit: btw current box worked out to be 4.45 cubes after recalculation of displacements, also would 2 x 4" aeroports be ok for the dual type x subs AND dual idmax or will 3 x 4" aeroports be better suited? Is there any way to add mdf inside my current box to reduce volume temporarily so I can remove it if I dont like it? Ok so scrap all of that the type x has a MUCH bigger displacement than type r even though they look roughly same size and shape, so my box is 5.02314 cu ft. Net, the ports are 16.11" which works out as 0.148 displacement for them each and type x 12 is 0.194 displacement so say 0.184 with my double baffle. All comes down to 4.21114 cu ft. Ok so I now see I cant really improve on box size for the type x 12's to achieve really anything! Oh well... On the plus side I guess my current box will be about perfect for a set of IDMAX 12's , all I have to do is order and then install as their amps are ready too. My guess is once you get the lows coming from the type x in a ported situation vs a type r (less lows) it adds a muddyness? reduce lows = cleaner sound? Any opinions or advice is appreciated. They still sound heaps better and cleaner than the type r's, just seem to have a muddying affect on the rest of my speakers and overall SQ worse than the type r's did. weird. must be the added lows i reckon?? IDMAX will have cleaner lows for sure... hopefully their lows are as strong as the type x's (pls advise the anwser anybody who know this) *edit again: Subsonic filter was on 15hz 12db, where I have it normally set for these amps, now turned to "Off". Muddyness has gone Overall SQ goes up through the roof Bass suffers slightly but has more impact but is a bit headachey upon listening to it again later have totally gotten used to the bass, it sounds clearer, punchier and much better, no headache at all Overall SQ and Bass SQ VERY good
  2. hmmm ok, yeah im not really worried about tuning because the tuning reminded me straight away of where I had the type r's and i fiddled with that for so long and decided i would want to go up or down. I dont think I would change it no matter where it end up being as i like the tuning exactly there for the type x and type r's, I dont like the response on either side of that tuning for them. Im thinking that a reduction in box size might be it, just the sound sometimes makes me think they are trying a bit too hard in that box. Just sounds like its dying to tighten up a little, especially up loud but its weird I notice with lower volumes the sound blending I get a crisper, cleaner sound with the type r's even though the overall SQ is alot less. With the type x's I get alot better SQ overall and bass wise but the bass and overall sound is more murky. I have mid-tier DDLinier Tweeters and Crossovers and VERY old school "Highly Praised" Polk's for Mids up front with a set of those gold DB Polks coax's with a cap upgrade in the back all running of a MRV-F345 V12 amp and the sound is pretty damn decent especially coming out of that Alpine W900E head deck. My theory is I think that the type x's are getting pushed to their "extra low low" limits by that box being forced to go even a bit lower than they probably would like to and I just need to tighten its size up to even a 4.5-4.6 and they would be much happier. I get what your saying though to reduce the size would probably only be a small improvement, I wonder if I did make another box to say 4.5 would I lose much lows or basically none? Thats really the deal-breaker for me I guess, another box would not be hard to make but ill try to avoid it if it is a better decision. Its disappointing I was under the impression that the Type X 12 was like a happy 2nd place for SQ guys to JL W6 12's and then like they were saying Fi Q was about the same SQ as Type X but it was a cheaper made sub. So being that the type x got louder than W6's and was easier to source I just went with them, only to realize now that I want 2 x IDMAX 12's. When I was hearing all this about the top SQ subs I kinda assumed that the Image Dynamic subs must have fell below this rank of those 3, so I didnt bother looking at that them. But now I realize IDMAX is better sounding, lower and louder than JL W6 and Fi Neo so thats what I will get once I get the $2,200AUD up to buy them. I would have never found a set of them second hand around here anyways and i got both type x's for under 800 (brand new btw) so I guess I cant complain really, I just thought they would sound a bit better. Could I ask a recommendation for an Aeroport box size for 2 x IDMAX 12's running at 1k each, hitting very low and loud please? I have to make this Type X situation work for the interim though. *edit: Fi Q/ Neo is louder and probably lower than IDMAX but IDMAX's SQ is way better and will definitely get loud enough for me so it totally wins over the Fi Neo option for me with it sounding much better and all and gets plenty loud.
  3. Ok so I have got the 2 x Type X 12's in that same box now, running off 2 single Alpine MRD-M1005 amps, got a question, box is about 5 cubes after displacements and I find the sound on the type x seems a tad off to me, not too bad however. Its tuned to 33hz currently and that is perfect tuning for me but curious is 2.5 cubes per type x 12 a little bit too big, like do i need to make another box at about 4.4 cubes or something for better sq? The just sound a tad muddy, like much better sq than the type r's but a little bit more muddy. weird? Both type x subs are brand new btw, they are the older type, they had just been sitting in somebody's garage. I did break them in for quite a few hours over a couple of days before putting much volume to them, just to soften them up after sitting for so many years. Do they just need to break in a bit more for better sound?
  4. yeah its definately the knob, would that rockford fosgate plc-u one be problem free, thats the only one i can get thats decent from here. we cant order from sky high or anything like that from here
  5. something to do with the bass knob that comes off the rcas off the imprint unit, if i turn it to 1/4 or above half way the noises stop. I need the bass knob, it cant go no matter what and its not possible to run a bass remote knob directly from the amp (well you sort of can via Amp-Link directly to a compatible head deck). Also it turns out this problem is not as bad in the daytime with ambient noise around as it was late last night, when the cd is playing it doesnt bother that much, even in silent bits, but still something I must get rid of if I can its just annoying, my SQ is going down the drain with noises like this. Any ideas why this is happening or how to fix it, I already tried turning my gains down a little and basically nothing happened. Is it because the Bass Knob is just a cheapie from eBay, will buying a better one help?? Any opinions are warranted.
  6. Hi I have a new Alpine MP3 CD Changer and it makes knocking thuds whenever it is changing through discs and a consistent "bassy" whurr through my twin Alpine Type R's when its playing a cd. It seems to only do these sounds out of the subs. The Cd Changer is connected via Ai-Net into an Alpine Imprint box which comes out of my Alpine INA-W900E Head Deck. My 3 Alpine v12 Amps all run out of the Imprint box. I have tried changing RCAs on both mono amps (which run the 2 Type R's) and no difference, and it plays the noise through both amps. As soon as I flick it over to the headunit CD player or anything else like radio or usb the noises are completely gone, only does it when cd changer is in use, it can be still connected and makes noise just when its operating. Unplugging it does nothing. The imprint box is what I suspect? It is grounded in the same location as the head unit right behind the head unit. The CD Changer is old but was never used brand new out the box. Any ideas? Is this type of noise problem common for PXA-H100 Imprint devices?
  7. ok so just to clarify, the port length I was thinking was about 35.6hz was actually 33.8hz cos i didnt minus the sub disp. for some unknown reason (musta been really late) when i did that calculation. So i reckon I will prefer 33hz if too many freqs dont drop off to my liking. Im gonna try for 30hz and just keep fine tuning upwards from there. Hopefully 30hz is to my liking, definitely need to get it a bit lower if i can. 33.8 sounds pretty damn nice though, just needs to be a bit lower.
  8. OMG thank you so much for that Triticum, wow now I can finally use winISD. Gonna be able to build some nice boxes now. Thanks again. @ 1point21 yeah Big Ass Ports have some nice gear, unfortunately no international shipping. The only Aeroports you can get over here in Australia is ones you make yourself from PVC pipes. I reckon Im gonna build that box with 2 x 6" Aeroports, stuff it, just to make it correct, but it will cost me over $220 to build so Im kinda putting it off for a while. Need cash at the moment.
  9. Ok so I thought I had better update this news, there is no more resonance from any of the ports, at any volumes. Im a little embarrassed to inform that I accidently had the remote wire connected to the PWR ANTENNA Blue wire at the back of the Head Unit for one of the Mono Amps, I normally would never do anything like this because Im so careful with wiring and I always thought that there was only one blue wire behind the Head Unit that was the remote wire, as I had a Blue extension wire coming from the short Blue and Yellow Remote wire which I had one amp attached to and then another amp tapped to that blue wire further along, so I thought I was just splicing onto that first amp but instead the second Mono amp was only coming on when Radio was selected, of course I was always tested loud play with USB mode selected, which is when resonance occurred. I was troubleshooting a screen problem on the amp at the time I was talking on here as I thought it was just the screen and the amp was still running as there was ALOT of excursion coming from the non-powered sub, but yeah a fair bit less than the powered sub, I kinda thought this was just because of the massive ports behind only that sub. Another reason as when selecting different LPF and subsonic toggles I was POSITIVE I heard a change from the affected sub, so I assumed it was just the screen going out occasionally and kept going with it. It actually sounded not too bad, more muddy but very similar to the working twin subs. Very Deep and Low. So yeah, I eventually worked it out and the amp is going all the now and wow tidied up the sound really nicely, not quite as Low (well the lows are better and probably as deep but just sounds different, hard to explain) at tuning but better sound, and best yet no resonance at all out of any of the ports. Very happy with it, I hear a very small amount of port noise but yeah not chuffing or really can pick up on anything sound wise. Like you said should be nothing drastic, just a little bit, just like you said. Thank you heaps for all of your help mate. Im not needing to build the 2 x 6" port box now so I wont bother as Im quite happy with the sound Im getting out of my current box and would guess basically no change to performance or sound by rebuilding. Im thinking of dropping tuning a bit to say 34-34.5hz but I get the feeling Ive got it about as low as Im going to get it with tuning to my liking, maybe not much frequencies will drop off at 34.5-35Hz but lows will obviously improve. I will try 32Hz and go up from there, but I doubt that I will like 32??
  10. Oh, the only thing I cant work out for winISD is the first bit when it asks for driver info, I cant seem to enter in the parameters manually correctly, it always comes up wrong, is there a good video to explain or where do I get the files for common subs like Alpine SWR-1242D for winISD? Mainly just want to know what you reckon about my new box for the type x's? A bit too big? or nah should be fine with that tuning?
  11. Ive heard that you can only just get the Type X subs as loud as the Type R subs, even though they have twice the amount of power going to them I guess that is because they are SQ subs and are more quiet than you would think but still will get very loud. Im still going to make the 2 x 6" Aero box for my type r's just curious if the type x subs move a similar amount of air as the type r subs and would work best with 2 x 6" Aeros. Ahh I get it now, just then while I was typing lol, so 2 x 6" isnt going to be like WAY too much for the type x's because they are so similar in air movement, as in there would be no point restricting the subs to 3 x 4" aeros cos 2 x 6" will be fine for them even its a tad over and then my new box is more versatile with letting me put other subs in it if i ever decided i actually wanted to do that. Its just the point isnt it, why go back to the 3 x 4" like ever if it wouldnt ever need to use it again. So its a new box with 2 x 6" Aeroports for both types of Alpine subs! So it turns out my box is actually 4.5 cu ft now since I put the shorter Aeroports in (35.6Hz), originally was 31.6Hz, so at my current tuning and box size Im really happy with the sound and decided to make the new box the same size and tuning because of this, but just reading up now on forums on box size for type x subs people are saying 2-2.2 cu ft per sub max and not too go any bigger or it will sound sloppy, they say 2-2.2 but aim for 2 cu ft. Whats your thoughts on this? Is my box a little bit too large at 4.5 cubes for the type x or would my higher tuning make that not an issue at all, which is what im kinda thinking, those guys were all talking about 28-30hz tuning. Because my reason for tuning higher is also so i still get the more normally heard bass freqs not cut out like at 32Hz, I cant stand them being cut out. But anything to still give me those deep lows at a higher tuning is very good. Because if I have to make a separate box at 4.3 cu ft for the type x's i will but would prefer to use my design for 4.5 cu ft. Btw, I use the12volt.com for box volume calculator, PSP calculator for multiple port lengths, this JL website for round port displacement: https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/224938887-Calculating-Enclosure-Volume-. I know from the manual that sub displacement is 0.071 for the type r swr 1242D and i just say 0.061 cos of my 18mm and 16mm baffles, im not sure how to work that one out so i just guess. I dont think the err amount would affect much. Original box size: 34.05"(w)x18.66"(h)x17.04"(d) (4.54414 cu. ft. after all disp. - 3 x 13.04" Aeroports (minus flare length), new box size: 34.4"x18.64"x18.04" (4.56957 cu. ft. after all disp. 2 x 18.42" Aeroports (minus flare length)). I would use WINisd but i can never work out how to enter the parameters properly, i think there are files i can just import or something that fills that area in so then i can do box design properly and know velocities and stuff, but because i couldnt get past that bit i had to just give up, i kinda knew what sort of box size i needed and stuff so i just did it like that. Can you help me in that area please? How do I use WINisd, properly? Dont worry if its too hard to explain.
  12. Ok cool, sounds good. I get what you mean. Im definitely going to build the same box with 2 x 6" Aeroports at least for the type r's and I get what your saying about the net volume and tuning, so that will all remain the same so the way the bass sounds and feels will also remain the same only with ALOT less resonance and annoying sounds. Thanks heaps for your help! Just curious what is the perfect size and amount of Aeroports to have in the same size/shape box for 2 x Alpine Type X 12's running off 2 x Alpine MRD-M1005 Amps? Im guessing that it would be 2 x 6" but just need to clarify. Or would my current box be more suited for them? The gains will be set high, one or two notches back from clipping and Alpine's "Subwoofer System 2" will be set to "On", always. And a medium amount of Bass Boost will be used just to a safe level without distortion or clipping. Not sure if you need to know that bit but basically I will be attempting to power the subs as hard as I possibly can without distortion or clipping with those two amps and I will never change those gains, ever. It will always be set that way from the day I put them in. Cheers mate!
  13. ok cool so a slot port kinda seems as though it might not be a bad idea then. Ive gotta admit though I do really like the Aeroports now and will try to stick with them in future builds if I can get away with it, just something about them, fun to work with i guess, I really like them. Ok so going with the 2 x 6" Aero's (which I was going to do but by the posts I read I decided on 3 x 4", people were suggesting that the 2 x 6" might be a tiny bit too big, kinda with not really saying it in so many words though - I guess cos Im giving them a fair bit more power than probably what they were talking about?, plus I can give em alot more gain before clipping as the amps have really clean power - MRD-M605's birth sheets show around 660w @ 2 Ohms) what are any of the problems I might run into with them being too big like what about when Im listening to music at low levels or anything like that is there any advantages at all to have the 3 x 4" Aeros at like would the bass be a little bit tighter or something, is it possible the the 6" aeros would be a bit too loose in some situations? Actually I think Im getting what you mean now (just while i was typing that lol, still answer the question though please), even at lower high volume levels i notice some of that grinding resonance but not too much, its kinda just subtle, so that is literally starting out of the port from just that little bit too much port restriction?? OMG I get it now, just please answer all that questions though as if the sound will be a bit too loose im not sure about building it. So I can just modify my design very slightly to accommodate the wider ports behind both subs, man this thing is going to look badass, i will nearly be able to fit my head in them lol. Is there really any downside for me to go this route, like will bass be too boomy, less SQ, too much free air excursion, less tight bass impact feeling in my back when im in the drivers seat, i really like it to rattle my eyes and mirrors as much as possible if i was to loose that it would be not really worth it IMO - like when i tuend it to 31.6hz i noticed i lost the rattling of my head and mirrors too much so i stayed away from that - i dont like it, etc, anything you can think of will be appreciated. Oh and TBH I am already planning to upgrade the 2 x MRD-M605's to 2 x MRD-M1005's and change out the subs to 2 x Alpine Type X 12's so i need to build the box for these too really even though I am meant to be slowly accumulating the amps and subs over time, i already have my eyes on 2 of the amps and looking for ways to purchase them this month. will these subs go better with the 3 x 4" ports or the 2 x 6" ports? Like can I sell this box with the 3 x 4" aeros or should i keep it for the type x's? Cos there is really no point me building anything that wont be absolutely perfect for the type x's as well. everything else in my setup will be exactly the same.
  14. hey gday mate, cheers for helping me out. sorry for posting too much irrelevant shit before i guess i just got a bit too carried away... ok so im actually hearing what your saying now, if I increase the port size the resonance will go away. I guess it would be in my interest to design a slotted port to get the exact size right, first question though as to be honest Im kinda set with using Aeroports if I can get away with it, you said that my ports were slightly undersized - how much are we talking? Would 2 x 6" Aeroports at my tuning (35.5Hz) be too much? If so by how much and would this impact me negatively? I guess 4 x 3" Aeroports is still an option? Also I noticed with the Alpine Brand sub box you get with my subs I immediately get harsh cracking-style rattles in the cabin when the bass kinda hits hard like impact, it was almost like the slot which is under the box is getting hit, then hitting the moveable floor (which would normally cover a spare wheel or whatever, with the Rav it just covers other shit) which the sub box has to sit on in the cargo area behind the rear seats. I mean thats where the cracking starts I think but its VERY noticeable around the dash and sunvisor area, and headliner too, which is where it really annoys me. And when I swapped back over to my pre-fab box with a single 4" aeroport the cracking stopped immediately, only so by the difference in the way the aeroport plays the bass smoothly as opposed to flat (slotted port), not to try to pick on Slotted vs Aeroports at all, im just saying that this difference seemed the best way to go with my build as the slotted port seemed to really highlight all the rattley spots in my car MUCH worse. Am I right in thinking this is my problem there with the Rav4? Keep in mind I have already gone over the car fairly extensively fixing rattling areas with decent success before comparing the Alpine slotted box that I got with the 2nd Alpine Sub, so I kinda just immediately went f*%$ well I dont really want a slotted design then do I... It just seems to me that air wants to really crack out a slotted port very hard no matter where it would be positioned on the box, not necessarily a bad thing but I think with the Rav4 this might be not a good thing basically? Not sure? Oh and I also have Alpine's Subwoofer System 2 always turned on so I guess that might add to excursion a fair bit, its a Navigation Head Unit from 2010 not a single din one. My trick with the removeable floor rattling in the back is to pull the box right back nealy to the rear cargo door and it doesnt seem to make much noise if you do that, btw this did not work with the Alpine Brand pre fab box. Any ideas on how to make a floor like that no so rattley?
  15. Alpine's "Subwoofer System 2" might be making undue resonance by raising bass frequencies beyond where they are meant to be also?? Is this the general consensus?
  16. A bit of a lengthy reply there, just to give you a better idea on what is happening and what is causing the issue and what my setup is like. In short I guess Im saying that that I agree that port noise is more likely the culprit as I tried pressing on the panels but this did nothing at all.
  17. Hmm interesting, yeah I reckon it is port noise, there is a little but you can basically not hear any at all normally. Im not sure I would increase the port size to 2 x 6" Aeroports for another build as I do like there to be a little bit of compression in the air coming out of the ports. I think I just have to accept that there are some frequencies that will just be a bitch when it comes to causing resonance and causing things to vibrate, especially at very high volume, if I notice annoying sounds I just use the bass knob near the steering wheel to make it go away by turning it down a little. If its music from my folders I usually know what its gonna do when the song comes on anyways so Im sorta prepared. I dont really want to change tuning as I like it right there as I like it to rattle my head a bit at some of the higher bass frequencies, its a win-win really as the tuning is a bit high but the size of the box makes it pretty damn low anyways, not if I go to 37.5Hz though the lows are really depleted, but SQ is ALOT better. I could no longer feel it deep in my gut so I found this to be pretty annoying - sounding, feeling like I had been cut-off, just thinking about going to 36.5Hz right in the middle just made no sense because I had realised that 35.5Hz would be perfect for what I want. The more of the boominess it eliminates it just totally cleans up the sound, at least with those subs its actually pretty noticeable, but I found I was enjoying music less because the lows were gone too much. I tried pressing on lots of areas on the box but yeah did nothing, its a very solid box, pressing on it just feels funny like it just wont do shit to any sounds or vibrations as its so solid. Its all sealed up with Liquid Nails on the edges inside, Gorilla Wood Glue and screws holding it together. There is lengths of electrical tape of the ends of the joins on the PVC Pipe pieces depending on how many were necessary to create a strong hold inside the PVC coupling piece but not too strong so I cant separate them. I reckon your spot on with the port noise bit as there is a tiny bit of port noise at high volumes but it is so minimal and really not a problem but it is that sound that you can tell turns into that hellish Port Noise eventually when it cant breathe properly. Just sorta sounds and feels like a soft breeze atm, but yeah definitely would turn into chuffing if conditions were worse. I guess the resonance is in that bottom port because that is where the box is making contact with surface area or maybe because of how the box is designed it just chooses that port to create the resonance it is so eager to create when that frequency plays, manifesting because of port noise causing restriction. Maybe it just chooses that port to make the sound and not the others because it has chosen that port to make the sound due to slight variations in the box and the other 2 are happy not to do it as that one is doing it first for them, so-to-speak? It really resonated with me when you said the 2 (Port Noise & The Resonance) are probably related as I could remember thinking the 2 are probably related when I put my arm in there to try and brace the port, its hard to explain but you could just sort of tell. The resonance sound is kinda tearing down the port as apposed to the port itself actually vibrating. Btw the song that has the sound that is causing the extreme resonance is "Drake - Wu-Tang Forever" - not that I really like this song especially after I heard Inspectah Deck's opinions on it but it was just randomly in one of my folders I was flicking through when I was setting up the subs for the first time and got intrigued by the sounds it made and had to work out how to fix them. Its where the bass does a sustained higher freq note right before it lets the really low sustained bass note drop. The bass drops in that song are actually not bad, I think you will know the note when you hear it I find it doesnt really resonate at all if I just turn the bass knob down a bit. I think its just the type of frequency that will vibrate shit like a MF if its turned up too loud, depending on where your tuning is at I suppose. The same song did it in my car with my last box I had running just one of the Alpines. Anyways just thought I would add all that so you know exactly what sound I was talking about. If you dont know which bit I mean I'll find the exact time it first happens in the song. Some pictures for perspective too... btw the cargo blind is just there so thieving passers-by cant see what is in the back as the car looks extremely normal from the outside, except for black rims (which is getting a pretty normal look on white cars around here in Australia atm) It doesnt vibrate or rattle at all, there is actually no difference in rattles if I take the cargo blind out. There is only about a cm between it and the box but it doesnt even make this resonance sound or anything.
  18. Any ideas on how I could get it to stop making that noise? Ideas why it may be doing that, would bracing the suspect port be worth doing? Something I could add to the inside of the box near the port to stop it resonating in that bottom RHS back corner?? Any ideas would be great. Cheers.
  19. Hi, I have a new box i just built with 3 4" Aerports made of PVC pipe, they are adjustable. The box is about 4.4 cu ft after all displacements and the Aeroports are tuned to 35.6Hz, its made of 3/4" MDF and has a double baffle with some 1" dowel rods inside for bracing. The 2 subs in the box are the 2nd gen Alpine Type R 12's running at a bit over 600w RMS @ 2 Ohms each from an Alpine amp each per sub. The box sounds great and gets decently low for my liking, however I notice one song in particular that when the bass plays at a certain frequency for a long hold its causes a VERY loud grinding/ vibrating resonance sound thoughout the cabin in my 2007 Rav4, I notice the sound outside the car too vibrating on the roof with the door closed, so I inspected the box to try and isolate the problem and with the ports hanging out the back of the back of my car i notice that same resonance is coming quite pronounced from the lowest Aeroport at the bottom, the other ports are not making this sound as is nowhere else on the box. The sound was isolated to that port making it easy to diagnose as i had half the box outside the car with the back door wide open. I have tried separating the 2 halves of the port just a little to see if the inner joins weren't chattering against each other and this did nothing, same sound. I think the speaker wire used for jumpers and running to the terminals is probably wedged between the bottom and the middle port, I aimed for stuffing them under the lowest port during installation but that didnt happen. The jumpers kinda just hang down my the back of the sub, when installing. Im not sure that vibrating on the suspect port would be causing the sound though, it appears to be resonating down the walls of the port. I can watch the speaker wire from the other sub during the bass drops through the ports and they dont even move a whisper at all. I have tried tightening the screws holding the Aeroports on and this did nothing, btw there is thick weatherstrip all the way around where the aeroports are screwed in. Another thing the ports are all VERY stiff and more or less have NO movement/play in them if wiggled which is the only reason they are not braced. In saying that their could be a very slight chance that there is a VERY small amount (less than 1mm) of movement causing the resonance, when i stick my arm in there and carefully brace the port quite hard with my fingertips it still makes the sound (being careful not to let my forearm touch the inner walls of the port). I notice if I pull the box way over to the right hand side of the cargo area so the ports are not so close to the inside LHS wall of the car (the subs face my back when im in the drivers seat) the resonance is dramatically reduced, however it is still there and a fairly annoying. I feel as though if I remove the resonance coming out of the suspect Aeroport it might cause less resonance in the Rav's cabin? Btw I have some rings of ply where I screw the sub in to give a better grip when I tighten them down, works well, just so you know this is not a 3rd baffle.
  20. Yeah scored a set of super rare Polk db6520 from the 90's but after setting them up I noticed one was fairly dull compared to the other (which sounds VERY nice btw) when fading right into each speaker on my HU. I tried swapping speakers on a different channel and exact same result so I knew it was the speaker itself. So I was thinking it was a bad capacitor and ordered a pair of Jantzen 450uf 400v "Cross-Caps" (which is the same specs as the Bennic one on the speaker), but after I replaced the suspect capacitor and left the cap in the other good speaker to compare the results I found the sound to still be dull, although the sound definitely improved ALOT it still had the exact same dullness to it compared to the good speaker. Thinking it could be possible but unlikely a break in period for the cap, I have left it a few days of random playing music and the sound has not changed, usually new caps will just sound a bit harsh but not lower in sound. Anyway so I am guessing now it has to be something wrong with the tweeter itself as all the connections looked fine on the back of the speaker when I did the cap, and I only suspect the tweeter as the mids appear to be coming out fine. Is there anything I can do to repair it? I am going to pull them out tomorrow and put some other rear speakers in and then I can have them on my work bench and disconnect the tweeter wires and test them with my Multimeter, but even if that gives an "off" reading I still dont know where to start in repairing them. Im not to bad with a soldering iron and I have some small tools a decent understanding of speakers and stuff and I can add clear photos or whatever is needed. I really need to get these speakers back in action. Any help/ advice/ knowledge would be greatly appreciated!
  21. OMG I only just worked out I have to force email notifications on this website, anyway yeah cheers for the reply, I ended up going for a F345 anyways as this was what I was kinda thinking and end up finding a good one at a decent price not far from me so I grabbed it.
  22. The MRV-F545 does 125w RMS @ 4 Ohms, the Polk's do 65w RMS at 4 Ohms. How about an Alpine PDX-f6? I cannot risk ANY damage to these speakers as they are VERY old and rare.
  23. Is an Alpine MRV-f545 running a set of Polk db6520 ok? 125w rms (amplifier) to 60w rms speakers do-able?? I know that a 100w rms amp would be ok, but is 125w rms amp ok or nah thats just too much?? It will be running a component set as well rated to 60w rms.
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