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DAN831111

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About DAN831111

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  1. Hmm interesting, yeah I reckon it is port noise, there is a little but you can basically not hear any at all normally. Im not sure I would increase the port size to 2 x 6" Aeroports for another build as I do like there to be a little bit of compression in the air coming out of the ports. I think I just have to accept that there are some frequencies that will just be a bitch when it comes to causing resonance and causing things to vibrate, especially at very high volume, if I notice annoying sounds I just use the bass knob near the steering wheel to make it go away by turning it down a little.
  2. Any ideas on how I could get it to stop making that noise? Ideas why it may be doing that, would bracing the suspect port be worth doing? Something I could add to the inside of the box near the port to stop it resonating in that bottom RHS back corner?? Any ideas would be great. Cheers.
  3. Hi, I have a new box i just built with 3 4" Aerports made of PVC pipe, they are adjustable. The box is about 4.4 cu ft after all displacements and the Aeroports are tuned to 35.6Hz, its made of 3/4" MDF and has a double baffle with some 1" dowel rods inside for bracing. The 2 subs in the box are the 2nd gen Alpine Type R 12's running at a bit over 600w RMS @ 2 Ohms each from an Alpine amp each per sub. The box sounds great and gets decently low for my liking, however I notice one song in particular that when the bass plays at a certain frequency for a long hold its causes a VERY loud
  4. Yeah scored a set of super rare Polk db6520 from the 90's but after setting them up I noticed one was fairly dull compared to the other (which sounds VERY nice btw) when fading right into each speaker on my HU. I tried swapping speakers on a different channel and exact same result so I knew it was the speaker itself. So I was thinking it was a bad capacitor and ordered a pair of Jantzen 450uf 400v "Cross-Caps" (which is the same specs as the Bennic one on the speaker), but after I replaced the suspect capacitor and left the cap in the other good speaker to compare the results I found
  5. OMG I only just worked out I have to force email notifications on this website, anyway yeah cheers for the reply, I ended up going for a F345 anyways as this was what I was kinda thinking and end up finding a good one at a decent price not far from me so I grabbed it.
  6. The MRV-F545 does 125w RMS @ 4 Ohms, the Polk's do 65w RMS at 4 Ohms. How about an Alpine PDX-f6? I cannot risk ANY damage to these speakers as they are VERY old and rare.
  7. Is an Alpine MRV-f545 running a set of Polk db6520 ok? 125w rms (amplifier) to 60w rms speakers do-able?? I know that a 100w rms amp would be ok, but is 125w rms amp ok or nah thats just too much?? It will be running a component set as well rated to 60w rms.
  8. Hi, my box build is 22" x 15" x 14.5" with 3/4" MDF (2.08 Cu Ft Gross). I want to have 2 x 3" aeroports, what length should they be to get 33Hz?
  9. Ok so Im thinking about a 2.0 cu ft box with front facing alpine sub and 2 front facing 3" aero ports tuned to about 32-34Hz. Is this a good idea? Would 2.3 cu ft be better?
  10. Ok so I am reading that "Best acoustic coupling is accomplished when the port(s) are installed on the same side as the woofer" But Im still wondering about box size an number of ports, also would i need a baffle or is 3/4 inch thick MDF fine for this sub?? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, cheers.
  11. I'm about to build a ported enclosure for my single Alpine SWR-1242D Type-R 12 to go into the cargo area in my 2007 Rav4. I am running it off an Alpine MRV-500 at 2 ohms. Im thinking to go with 2.0 cu ft box as opposed to the suggested 1.7 cu ft to give it a bit more of a deep, low sound, am I right in thinking this? and should I step it up to say 2.2 or 2.5 for an even better sound? I have it in a 1.5 cu ft 'pre-fab' box atm which I thought might have been good enough to get me through but it wasnt as there was/is terrible port noise. It had about a 12 inch long 4 inch aero port on it wi
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