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Everything posted by Mattc43

  1. Not all the time but I can set it now because the light will actually light up on the dd1. With sub level at 6 on HU I get distortion light at 34/40 volume. So I left it at 33 and the distortion light disappeared. Then I set my gain on my sub amp until distortion light came on and backed off until it disappeared. Just feel like I’m missing output. I don’t know. This is frustrating. Also my electrical is: dc power high output 270 amp alternator, big 3, and single 0 gauge run to the trunk where I have a 90ah agm battery.
  2. All good lol. I did set my sub level to its max but now after all is set I’m getting distortion
  3. I adjusted the sub level all the way up and it worked! Finally have everything set right. You are wrong about the ground. It does say in the manual you connect black to negative speaker terminal
  4. I did read about the blinking distortion light. It says in the troubleshooting section you are supposed to aim for the distortion light to stay on constantly then you go down slightly from there until it disappears. My issue was my head unit not putting out enough voltage. I had to raise my sub level from 0 to 6 on my headunit in order for that distortion light to stay lit. It worked. Finally got my gain set right and hu max volume figured out. Next step is lithium and my 5k amp is going in
  5. I’ll have to try with my sub level on plus one dB. I’ll let you know how it goes! Yeah it’s been a great lil tool so far. Also if you remember I’m the 4Runner with two x15s guy that asks too many questions on here! Just got my new ho alternator in and one 90ah agm to power one smart 3k and I’m already thinking about returning the agm and going with lithium! I think a battery delete will be super easy. Just need to check my vehicles charging voltage but I am thinking of running two Down4Sound lto 6.0
  6. Well that was my issue! I couldn’t get it to stay a solid red
  7. Just bought a smd dd1 and I connected my pos and negative lead to pos and neg speaker output on my sub amp. Set all settings to flat on my HU and played tracked 1. I’ll get to volume 32/40 and it will BLINK not stay a constant red distortion signal. This same thing happens when I set my gain for the amp after (I use track 5). The distortion light only blinks not stay steadily lit which makes it difficult to adjust my gain perfectly. My sub output level is at 0 on my headunit. I’m wondering if my hu voltage output is too low. It’s a pioneer AVH120BT. So I mean after the method I did above worked and it sounded nice but I’d like to tune it even more precisely. Would increasing my sub level on the head unit work? Or is that just introducing distortion. I’ve had issues before getting my target voltage with a dmm on the speaker outputs before as well. I was trying to get 77v and only came up with 71-72v
  8. Thanks! Appreciate all the replies you give me on my posts.
  9. It’s a Taramps smart bass 5 but I’m gonna have a multichannel that’s probably 1000w not sure what brand yet tho
  10. Hey guys, makin good progress on my build but how do I go about wiring up two agms in my trunk? I have one 90ah agm hooked up with a single run of 1/0 going from the under hood battery positive to trunk battery positive and then the trunk battery is grounded to the chassis in the back as well. Planning on putting a second 90ah in the trunk with my 1 I have now. How? You guys think 180ah of agm in the trunk along with yellow top under the hood AND 270 ho alt would hold voltage ok for 6000watts? I was planning on doing lithium originally but it worried me about fires especially since I’m not very experienced in car audio yet.
  11. 10hz. I will and my box is tuned to 30. I’m gonna get a DD1 because I’m thinking it’ll solve my problems
  12. Yep didn’t realize that had something to do with it too. I also have no idea where my head unit clips at so I have it at volume 30 of 40 when setting gains but honestly I probably just need to get a dd1 and figure it out. Dd1+ Is a lil expensive for me
  13. I’ve been avoiding buying a dd1 but I might honestly do it now. I know I’ll be doin car audio for the rest of my life so might as well get the tool. It’s odd why I can’t get my desired voltage with the gain knob. I’ll have to keep working on it I guess. I do not wanna fry those subs. Recones aren’t cheap and probably hard to get right now. I haven’t touched the rcas but I will probably upgrade those as well
  14. My low pass only goes down to 90! So I have it at 90 and my high pass is set to like 40 or 50 I think. I think my grounds are ok but it’s just the fact I have my subs wired to 2ohms (read many people say not to run the Taramps smart amps below 1ohm or else I would’ve wired to .5). I have my new alternator I just gotta get around to wiring it then from there I will probably get another energy 4000 agm which will give me a total of 180ah of agm in my trunk not including yellow top under the hood. Think I’ll be ok with that much reserve? Once I get HO alt and 3rd battery in then my smart bass 5 will go in. Hopefully, hopefully it’ll really pound. I’ll be wired to .5 by then and should get 2000 minimum to each subwoofer hopefully from .5-2ohms. After all that I’m hoping it doesn’t tear my interior apart too much excited for that. Then I’ll get my multichannel to run my doors and set those up last
  15. I messed with those and I think rise is probably what my issue is. Gonna get my 5k installed today and see how that goes. Gonna really have to watch my voltage with the stock alternator but one of these days I’m gonna get that new alternator in too. Watched some videos and doesn’t seem too bad
  16. They’re wired to 2ohms right now. My smart 3k is rated to do 3k at 2ohms tho. The cerwin Vega was awesome and I loved that sub but it was time to go bigger. They do sound better yes. I have a double din pioneer AVH120BT headunit
  17. My amp does not have a subsonic setting but I’ll have to check out my lowpass again. I had it set to around 20-30 I think but I know right. I would’ve thought 3000watts on two 15s would be nuts
  18. So I went from a 3 cubic foot box tuned to 32 with a single 12” cerwin Vega stroker (1250w rms) on an audiopipe 1500w mono amp to two sundown x15s (the v2s, rated 1500w rms each) in a 8.5 cubic foot box tuned to 30 on a smart 3k. It is louder? Yes but not by much really. I was expecting it to be much louder. I don’t think I’m getting a true 3000watts out of that amp. I have a the big 3 done with 1/0 welding wire, single 1/0 welding wire run to the back to an energie 4k agm. I have a yellow top under the hood (yeah Ik, not the best ) I set my gains using a DMM and I had to max out the gain knob to get my target voltage (77.45) and it still ended up only getting up to 74v. The amp can get really loud but it sounds horrible and is very distorted which I assume is clipping obviously and I’ll turn it down right away. My voltage stays pretty solid too. Seems to stay above 14 and dip below 14 when goin hard. Now I do have a smart bass 5k and an aftermarket alternator (dc power 270a) but I’d like to learn what the hell I’m doing before throwing all that in and solve my current situation while learning something along the way. I don’t know guys just feel like I’m missing something here. I really thought the 3k with two 15s would be a huge upgrade and blow my mind compared to my single 12 on that audiopipe 1500:/
  19. Thanks! I’ve read that box rise doesn’t exist that it really is just impedance rise. My 5k should help push those subs right.
  20. Box is in! Very impressed with the sound quality of the x15v2s! They move a lot of air! My box is tuned to 30 but honestly it hits high notes nicely too. Now I only have my smart 3k on the subs and it really doesn’t move them much! I have an energie 4k in the trunk with one run of 1/0 welding wire to my stock alt. I have a dc power 270amp alt I haven’t put in yet. Big 3 is done and I think I’m really lacking in alternator power! My stock alt is not doing these subs justice I don’t think. I can clip the hell out of the subs and they get very loud but sound terrible with distortion. I’d like to get the bigger alternator installed soon and check all my grounds. There is no way I’m getting 1,500w to each sub. It is definitely louder than my previous setup but we’ve got more work to do. Happy with how my box sounds tho! Sounds great but like I said it’s just lacking in power. I have a Taramps smart bass 5k as well that will be installed once that dc power alt is in place. Hopefully then it’ll really pound!
  21. My alternator company said it would put out however many volts the car calls for or something like that. Isn’t 15v bad for some cars? 15v would be far more efficient for an amplifier I’d assume tho
  22. I’ve seen people buy the cells individually but I’d rather go with a well made bank by a trusted company for only a little more $ to be honest.
  23. I’d get a limitless 6k probably and call it a day. I’ve found some good videos on YouTube on how to do it though. Biggest thing for me is that I’d save a lot of Space with lithium. I would probably run a single run of 2 gauge welding wire from my 270amp dc power alt to the limitless bank in my trunk
  24. Would a battery delete and lithium even be worth it for 6000watts? Would it be quicker and easier to just do agms? Battery delete intimidates me a little
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