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mel80

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Everything posted by mel80

  1. there all here now now i really need to get to work , i did end up clearing out any remaining stock on the dual 2's that were left on he website
  2. lol i keep joking around that i need 2 inch front drop springs to level out the car with just the trunk build , im going to try to get upto home depot this weekend to buy some wood and get started
  3. ok so 16cft , 3.2 cft per driver port at 42hz plays down to 34hz at 10k and 38hz at 15 k port at 32hz plays down to 28hz at 10k and 29hz at 15k 14.5cft enclosure for 5 12's puts me at 2.8 cft per driver with port tuned at 42hz the excursion is at its limits at 36hz @ 10000 watts @ 15k anything below 36hz will bottom the sub's with port tuned at 32 hz the excursion is at its limits at 28hz @10k,, at 15k limits are hit at 29hz and down on 15k at 12.5cft 2.5cft per driver with port at 42hz limits are exceded at34hz at 10k w , at 15k everything under 38hz will bottom with port at 32hz limits are exceded at 28hz @10k , at 15k 29hz and down at 11.5 2.2 cft per driver port at 42 hz limits hit at 34hz at 10k and 37hz at 15k port at 32 hz limits hit at 28hz at 10k and 29hz at 15k 1-2 db difference in spl with the largest being the loudest and loosing spl as volume decreases the larger the box the less excursion below the tuning freq but more above it but none of them hit limiits above the tuning freq 113 inches of port isnt enough for any of them larger the box the larger the ports gota be atleast 200
  4. ive been modeing with winisd that how i came up with 2.5-2.7 per driver , i think what im going to do is just start walling off the car and then see how much space i end up with , instead of trying to design an enclosure that fits back there then having to deal with sealing it off . this way i get a much closer fit to the car and its much easier to seal off . if it ends up way to big be easy enough to take up space inside of it to get me were i need to be .sealing to the b pillars is going to be the tricky part i need the front of the baffle to be atleast 4 inches behind the b pillars. im a tall fucker and its a small car lol . but i do have plenty of fiberglass experiance so im sure i can come up with a way to seal it off to the b p[illars even set that far back without to much issue
  5. 6 will bump me into a class i dont want to be in due to cone area rules , i did figure out how to do a slot port though and still be able to drop the tunning on the fly , i.e build the high tune port into the box and then make an insert i can drop into the port to extend it for the low tunning i want for daily use. 2.5-2.7cft is the sweet spot for theese to get them to be louder down low over what i have now not that they arent loud down low now but the increase in box volume will deff pick up the low end a good bit. i got plenty of time though so im not rushing this , next week ill prolly go pick up some wood and start on a front baffle to just start playing with layout and go from there i am having troublke deciding were i want the port though i.e passenger side /ds / center or do i wanna put it at the top/bottom
  6. so i did a bunch of measuring and thinking things threw im doing 5 of these in the wall build , 13cft net after port,brace and woofer displacement puts me right at 2.7cft per driver which is right were i want to be
  7. so that 8 that i built with parts from lord of bass is in its new temporary home in her car for the time being. only running it off a single amp instead of a pair of those recoil 1200.1's ,going to build it a good box here soon but eventually her cars going to get 2x maximus 12's as well
  8. im hoping to get the box down to 10.5 cft after bracing and anything i may need to do to take up some volume. puts me at 2.6cft per driver right were i want it . im goign to take some careful measurements in the car tommorow if i can fit it im going to design the enclosure for 6 drivers. the 3 im running are in 6cft net and could deff use a bit more box volume but they do get down and they are loud problem is i cant get any more box volume with a trunk build in this car
  9. i have it oversized on purpose easier to take away space then add it , my thoughts were i could always add a 5th sub down the line if i needed to or just take up volume inside the box for the time being , im kinda worried about the port as even with the 3 on a 10 inch port port seemes undersized though im not getting any port noise . i tried to fit 2x 10 inch ports but with as it tunned as low as i want the ports are just to damn long to be front facing . putting the ports out the side doesnt seem like it would work well for this build . last option is a slot port along the top or bottom of the box . but i want this thing tunned low but low isnt loud when it comes to going to comp and a slot port cant be changed on the fly i actually have the tsps for these drivers ill have to post them when i get home from work
  10. so this is what im planning on going with for 4x audio legion 12's . basically 12 cft after subs and port displacement need to figure out bracing displacement to but the box is overly large as it is so it wont be an issue , the plan is to run the port in the center and move the subs out twards the corners to make room for the port , im wondering if a single 12 inch areo port is going to be enough for this , this is going in a pretty small car and im going to seal it off from b pillars back , thoughts , suggestions ? was planning on a dbl 1 inch thick front baffle should i go for a 3rd ?
  11. i can go upto about 5.5cft net bigger but i need to decide if i wanna do 4 or 6 even though i have 6 i may just do 4 with a center port and keep 2 for spares
  12. more subs on the way , lol this is escalating quickly , though im still not sure what im going to do with them yet
  13. im seriously considering buying either 1 more sub or 3 more and doing a walled build with 4 or 6 of these subs in the future
  14. both front doors done added a 3rd layer to the drivers door and did 3 layers on the passenger door , also got up as high on the firewall as i could without removing the dash and the front seat floor area.now i have bigger windshield issues , it flexed alot before but now its really flexing to the point im afriad im going to break it even at lower volumes and to top it off im about to dbl my amplifier power . ive got to figure out some thing to help there i really dont wanna put a floor to roof bar in at the top of the windshield but might be my only option
  15. recoil has new amps coming amp ill be getting 3x of the 2500's to replace the 1200's , i also did start to deaden the doors got the driver side door outer skin done today , hoping to get one door done each day , i think im going to get some 150 mil stuff to do the inner panel with instead of using the 394mil stuff on that as well
  16. im not 100% sure what ill do yet i do wanna hity one more comp with my current setup and id like to run the subs back and see what it does , to my ear it deff seems to pick up some db with the subs pointed back i just didnt try it at the comp cause witht he subs facing into the cabin the port was easy to get in and out to try different tunings so i never turned the box around . i do know this the box is so big that theres not alot of space for the sound waves from the port to get around the box into the cabin , and with the 3x 12's theres no way to get the port on the same side as the subs worst case is i buy 3 more subs and build a wall lmao im actually going to buy my own spl meter here soon so i can do some testing at home with various configs and see where i can pick up a few db
  17. getting some much needed work done 2 layers over most of it of 294 mil stuff and 3 layers in a few spots were i could were it wouldnt interfer with headliner going back in
  18. yeah i was going to get one from big ass ports im going to make some box changes i think im going to drop down to 2 of the 12's dbl the power and put the port on the speaker side or i may leave all 3 subs in and fire the port out the back of the box instead of the side so i can either run it with subs into the cabin along with port , or subs/port back , or the other config would be subs into cabin port back , or subs back port into cabin
  19. so when i got to the comp i ende dup running some low power sweeps to see were i was peaking at and it was around 40 hz . so what i ende dup doing was pulling my port and cutting it down which i ende dup doing a few times my very last run i went a lil short and ended up losing about 3 db ( 50hz port tunning ) , my biggest peak was when the port was at 44 hz so i know my sweet spot is between 42-46 hz for next time
  20. yeah i actually have an rta setup just the lack of time to do anything right now , but its something ill deff do before i hit my next comp so i know for sure right were i should tune the box to
  21. unfortunatly i dont have time with my work schedule to do any real testing this was a last minute thing for me heck the day i leave for the comp im working a 12 hour shift and then heading directly to las vegas for the comp basically going to be work 12 hours make the 3 hour drive get to the hotel sleep for a few hours and im off to the comp. im hoping to have enough time in the morning tomorrow to get my lithium bank in the car . i took a guess and cut a port tuned for 40 hz i can swap the ports on the fly and i do get reruns so i can experiment a lil there . my current port is tuned way low so im sure the 40hz tune will pick up some db but ill know for sure this weekend both classes im going to enter allow for music or tones, both are trunk classes one is upto 5k max power rating and the other is 5k clamped either way be nice to get some as is numbers and see were i end up as the summer goes on and i have time to do more work on it
  22. so im going to my first comp this weekend in a very very long time , right now i have 3x 12's in just under 6cft tuned to 28hz it sounds great for daily driving and music and gets plenty loud but i know if i tune the port higher it will get a good bit louder , class im entering is a trunk class that has to score from 53hz down , pre breakin fs on the subs was 50hz and 43hz after breakin im thinking about cutting a port tuned to 44hz for the comp. i also gain a good bit of volume back in the box with the higher tuned port the port is a 10 inch round port. unfortunately i dont have access to a meter i can use for testing before the comp so i just gota make a good guess and run with it thoughts / suggestions ?
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