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mel80

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Posts posted by mel80

  1. 15 hours ago, Joe X said:

     

    3  with those not to common wall builds on sedans suspension sometimes has been affected, may be a good ideal to get lighter wood or other measures you

        might think of.

     

    lol i keep joking around that i need 2 inch front drop springs to level out the car with just the trunk build , im going to try to get upto home depot this weekend to buy some wood and get started 

  2. ok so 

     

    16cft , 3.2 cft per driver 

    port at 42hz plays down to 34hz at 10k and 38hz at 15 k 

    port at 32hz plays down to 28hz at 10k and 29hz at 15k 

     

    14.5cft enclosure for 5 12's puts me at 2.8 cft per driver 

    with port tuned at 42hz the excursion is at its limits at 36hz @ 10000 watts @ 15k anything below 36hz will bottom the sub's

    with port tuned at 32 hz the excursion is at its limits at 28hz @10k,, at 15k limits are hit at 29hz and down on 15k 

     

    at 12.5cft 2.5cft per driver 

     

    with port at 42hz limits are exceded at34hz at 10k w , at 15k everything under 38hz will bottom 

    with port at 32hz limits are exceded at 28hz @10k , at 15k 29hz and down 

     

    at 11.5 2.2 cft per driver 

    port at 42 hz limits hit at 34hz at 10k and 37hz at 15k 

    port at 32 hz limits hit at 28hz at 10k and 29hz at 15k 

     

     

    1-2 db difference in spl with the largest being the loudest and loosing spl as volume decreases the larger the box the less excursion below the tuning freq but more above it but none of them hit limiits above the tuning freq 

     

    113 inches of port isnt enough for any of them larger the box the larger the ports gota be atleast 200 

  3. 12 hours ago, Joe X said:

    A couple of things:

     

    1) to confirm your suspicions on how the subs will react use modeling software to get insight on, A ) if Xmax is passed either below or above tuning on intended power and box specs B ) what's the proper port area. WinISD will suffice for that. Once you confirm your box specs then.......

     

    2) Get yourself a SPL meter before starting your tests, there are many decently priced like the SSA, those are like $300 or so for the basic models I believe.

     

    Wish I had more time these days like you to play with car audio gear. have fun.

     

     

    ive been modeing with winisd that how i came up with 2.5-2.7 per driver , i think what im going to do is just start walling off the car and then see how much space i end up with , instead of trying to design an enclosure that fits back there then having to deal with sealing it off . this way i get a much closer fit to the car and its much easier to seal off . if it ends up way to big be easy enough to take up space inside of it to get me were i need to be .sealing to the b pillars is going to be the tricky part i need the front of the baffle to be atleast 4 inches behind the b pillars. im a tall fucker and its a small car lol . but i do have plenty of fiberglass experiance so im sure i can  come up with a way to seal it off to the b p[illars even set that far back without to much issue 

  4. 6 will bump me into a class i dont want to be in due to cone area rules , i did figure out how to do a slot port though and still be able to drop the tunning on the fly , i.e build the high tune port into the box and then make an insert i can drop into the port to extend it for the low tunning i want for daily use. 2.5-2.7cft is the sweet spot for theese to get them to be louder down low over what i have now not that they arent loud down low now but the increase in box volume will deff pick up the low end a good bit. i got plenty of time though so im not rushing this , next week ill prolly go pick up some wood and start on a front baffle to just start playing with layout and go from there 

     

    i am having troublke deciding were i want the port though i.e passenger side /ds / center or do i wanna put it at the top/bottom 

  5. im hoping to get the box down to 10.5 cft after bracing and anything i may need to do to take up some volume.  puts me at 2.6cft per driver right were i want it . im goign to take some careful measurements in the car tommorow  if i can fit it im going to design the enclosure for 6 drivers. the 3 im running are in 6cft net and could deff use a bit more box volume but they do get down and they are loud problem is i cant get any more box volume with a trunk build in this car 

  6. i have it oversized on purpose easier to take away space then add it , my thoughts were i could always add a 5th sub down the line if i needed to or just take up volume inside the box for the time being  , im kinda worried about the port as even with the 3 on a 10 inch port port seemes undersized though im not getting any port noise . i tried to fit 2x 10 inch ports but with as it tunned as low as i want the ports are just to damn long to be front facing . putting the ports out the side doesnt seem like it would work well for this build . last option is a slot port along the top or bottom of the box . but i want this thing tunned low but low isnt loud when it comes to going to comp and a slot port cant be changed on the fly 

     

    i actually have the tsps for these drivers ill have to post them when i get home from work 

  7. so this is what im planning on going with for 4x audio legion 12's . basically 12 cft after subs and port displacement need to figure out bracing displacement to but the box is overly large as it is so it wont be an issue  , the plan is to run the port in the center and move the subs out twards the corners to make room for the port , im wondering if a single 12 inch areo port is going to be enough for this , this is going in a pretty small car and im going to seal it off from b pillars back , thoughts , suggestions ? was planning on a dbl 1 inch thick front baffle should i go for a 3rd ?

    2142921767_cutlistwall.thumb.png.f35c8784b69a661e0cceb834a5ef6dda.png1815362125_wallbuild45.thumb.png.539e10fb351f2cce48353c65d52da383.png

     

  8. pics from when i started the trunk today ive got 3 layers on the outer quarter skins and 2 layer son everything inboard except for the spare tire well im going to get some spray sound deadnber to apply in there and then ill do a layer of the 394 mil stuff ive been doing everywere else didnt get a finished pic as it was getting late and i needed to get the box back in the car .

     

    as u can see in the one pick the trunk in this car is vented ( pic of the left side rear quarter , im wondewring if i should remove the vent and seal the trunk , though short of bolting my trunklid down the trunk is going to leak bad regardless 

    346050895_188595450755458_2536962031155103781_n.jpg

    345460428_6070007953106002_1489589212231293277_n.jpg

    345209295_260949213160403_6452462813733463920_n.jpg

  9. both front doors done added a 3rd layer to the drivers door and did 3 layers on the passenger door , also got up as high on the firewall as i could without removing the dash and the front seat floor area.now i have bigger windshield issues , it flexed alot before but now its really flexing to the point im afriad im going to break it even at lower volumes and to top it off  im about to dbl my amplifier power . ive got to figure out some thing to help there i really dont wanna put a floor to roof bar in at the top of the windshield but might be my only option 

  10. flipped the box around and i think i like it better with the subs facing back , cant turn it up at home so ill have to see what it sound slike on the driver to work  and ill pull out my rta again and see if it changes anything 

    , keeping the power down while i do testing in this osb box , next day off from work ill prolly build the good box for theese so i can put some power to them , its warm enough now i can get my lithium installed as well gonna need it with all the amps im using to drive theese things 

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