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pervitizm
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Posts posted by pervitizm
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I did another design last night, this one is somewhat bigger than the last one posted. I have the following for outer dimensions:
25.75 x 49 x27
Now my drawing shows a height of 26 1/2, but I'm only counting the height at 25 3/4 in the Box Calc program because the top board was double baffled. I'm seeing a box tuning at 33hz. I think I still like the whole port and subs up design of the first box I posted last night. Has anyone gone from running subs up/port back to subs up/port up and if so did you like the outcome of that change? I've always ran subs up/port back and don't want to go through the hasle of changing to subs&port up if my output will suffer.
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Bumping this up. I've been so busy that I haven't had time to really sit down and think up some designs. I have one that I was kicking around back in the fall that I want to re-visit. Now when I plug in the numbers using Expo's Box Calc program I get a really high tuning. Close to 60hz, which is not what I want. However when I use this older excle program that I also got from here my tuning comes out to 33hz. What am I doing wrong?
Box Calc New:
Box Calc Old:
Box Design:
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FUCK OFF :01nocomment8so:
Thanks Mike. At least I know you care.
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28 views and no replies. Not even a fuck off?
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My 18's are currently in a dual port/seperate chamber box that is roughly around 11.5cuft after displacement is factored in. I want to do a single port common chamber box. I was floating around with a folded horn idea but I don't think I have enough space in the back to do this, since my goal is to try and keep all my seats in the truck. I roughly have the following outside dimensions to work with.
25in Height x 26in Depth x 49in Width
You guys think I can do something other than a normal vented enclosure within the restrictions listed above? I figured I'd ask around here first before I start messing with sketchup. My current box is tunned to 34hz so I want to try and stay around the 30 - 37hz range.
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Put in the new RJ11 phone splitter that I got from HomeDepot because RadioShack doesn' sell them anymore. Anyway put the new splitter in and now I can controll the boost on both amps off of one knob controller.
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Our complete dual kit is on sale right now for $499 shipped!! That comes with a 250 amp Rhino series alt, pigtail, bracket, belt, idler pulley, and hardware. That is a screamin' deal for a complete kit. (Reg. $599 plus shipping) The Rhino unit that we include usualy dynos out around 270 amps so-
you would have about 415 amps on tap- :hairtrick:
Just give me a call, I have them instock and can ship today.
1-888-MECHMAN
thanks
Matt
Matt,
Is this dual alternator kit the same price for the 2007 5.3v8 flex fueled trucks too?
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Will this apply if you get this alt as part of a dual alternator kit setup?
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Seeing how this guys just wasted like 4+ condoms, we can see it's been a real long time since this guy's been laid.
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I guess I'm bias too cause I've got one lvl4 acting up yet these things pound like no tomorrow off of the kickers. I should have switched to the kickers long ago with these subs. So my vote is DC.
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why not do it yourself??
I've never done a recone before. Is there a step by step out there? Cause right now, with the house(mortgage), bills, and cut overtime, my funds wont allow for shipping off at this time.
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where in nevada u at???
Like a good 1200 miles away. I'm in Missouri (St.Louis). Shipping to Nevada though UPS was like $80 for 4 day ground. And overnight was well into the $400 range. The thought of being without my sub for up to two weeks is kind of hard to swallow, but if it needs to be reconed then it need to get done.
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kinda sounds like the coil is rubbing.
but recone it is.
if you press on the cone lightly while its playing does it still do it? what coils do you have? cause 2500 per woofer is a good bit for the 4's even with level 5 coils.
Yeah if I press on the cone it doesn't make the sound. I've got the level 5 coils, dual 1ohms. I've got the gains set low, not even half way on the amps just to make sure I'm not sending a clipping signal. I've been having issue with the boost on the amps too so that's not really on either.
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So I emailed Kicker support last night to see if they had any thoughts. They told me to try the boost on each amp independently to see what happens. Sure enough the boost works on both amps. So I know believe my issue lies with either the RJ11 splitter that I used or the phone cord that I ran to the front of the truck. Either way I'll get that resolved sometime this week. I've also discovered engine noise within the system. This is a first for this truck and I believe I know why. When I had the Autotek in the truck I had it under the second row seats. I was able to keep the RCA wires and power wires separate yet on the same side of the truck (driver side). Now that I have two ZX amps I wasn't able to fit both under the second row seats. So I mounted one of the amp to the sub box. However in order to do that I had to run the power wire that I had coming inside of the truck back further to the back to reach the third battery and the power fuse block for the other ZX amp. The RCA wires going to that second amp are on the same side as the power wires. About a good 17inch of the run side by side. I realize that this would cause some issue but I FUBAR my order of RCA wires from Knu. So now I'm going to have to order new RCA wires from Knu (8 meter instead of 4) and run all my RCA wires on the passenger side of the truck.
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im thinking recone too, but are you REALLY low on power? because the sub was barely moving
Yeah I didn't have them turned up so you could hear the actual issue with the sub. As for power, I'm running three yellowtops off my factory 160amp alt for the time being. Was gonna get a 250 Rhino alt from Mechman at the end of the month for a dual alt setup, but if I got to get the sub reconed then that's gonna have to wait a bit. Shipping rates to Nevada are hell right now.
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I've posted this under Subwoofer/Enclosures section but I figured I'd post it here as well since this is a DC sub. Any thoughts on what this could be?
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swap speaker wire goin to the subs to see if the goofy one works through the good subs side
What initially made me believe that the Autotek amp was the culprit was I did exactly that. I switched the subs around and the screeching sound went to the other sub, but it wasn't as loud as it was on the sub to the right. All this time I just thought that the B channel crossover on my Autotek amp was messed up. I still believe that the Autotek is fucked, but now I have these two brand new amps and I'm only getting the sound from the one sub. I've switched both subs around to rule out the amps, and only that one on the right sounds like that. I've sent an email to Rusty along with a link to this thread and the video. I'll see what he thinks.
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With the HU though, wouldn't both subs be playing that way? I mean for it to only happen to one sub and it's the same sub. I've hooked up three amps to that one sub and it's still play that sound. I guess I'll send an email to Rusty to see what's up.
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The kicker amps I now believe that the Autotek amp wasn't the issue to began with. I have no idea what's causing this static screeching sound, so I took a video and figured I'd post it on here and ask you guys. It almost sounds like my sub is trying to play mid bass frequencies. I've turned the amp's feq down to 50Hz and it was still playing that sound. Keep in mind on this video I was playing the subs at really really low volume. My HU goes to 32 and the volume was at 5/6. The car wasn't running either, just in case someone was thinking it was alternator whine. So with that said anyone have any idea's about what's going on here with my sub. It just this one sub, the other sub plays fine.
DC Sound Lab Sub Playing Weird
F.Y.I.
I loaded the video on Myspace cause Youtube was down for maintenance.
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Update:
So I took my DMM out to the truck to check out things and sure enough my subs were not wired in series like I though. So the amps were seeing 1ohms per sub. So I rewired the subs and triple checked with my DMM and saw a 2.4 and 2.5ohm load respectively. The output was better but still not as loud as the autotek and the boost isn't working either. I might have gotten the wrong RJ11 splitter. I've also notice that high pitch sound coming from my subs again. I thought that this was due to a bad channel on my Autotek, but now I getting the same sound from the Kickers. I've got a video of the sound and I'll post it on the DC sub forum here. But as for the Kickers' what am I doing wrong with the boost?
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I have three batteries and stock 160amp alternator now. I'll be upgrading to an additional 300amp alt for a dual setup by the end of April. So power isn't the issue. My Autotek was banging a lot hard on two batteries than these two amps with 3 batteries. The only noticable thing I did different from the Autotek was I had re-wired the box terminals last night cause my speaker wire runs were too short.
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I hooked up my pair of ZX amps last night and my output is no were near as loud as it was with the single Autotek amp. I think I may have my subs out of phase so I'll check that out when I get home this afternoon. My problem is my boost controller (Bass Knob). I used an RJ11 line spliter to split the two to one and when I turn the knob nothing happens. Anyone have any ideals why? Could this be related to the phase issue? I also noticed that when I would adjust my subwoofer levels off my Pioneer HU the subs would play at the same level. So if I went from 0 to +6 or 0 to -6, the subs would play at the same level. I think I'm messed up somewhere I just need to figure out where.
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and it'll be murdered out, black on black on black
Damn right. It would be a bitch to keep clean but shit nothing would kill it look wise. Every black challenger I've seen so far have had that silver race stripes.
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bim
If not the Volvo then, this would be my number 2 choice. Hell might be my number one if it's murdered out.
Measuring Your Subs' T/s Parameters
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
I'm game for this.