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pervitizm
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Posts posted by pervitizm
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One unit SOLD.
I still have the other one left. I will change over the case so that it is a direct bolt-in for 1996-2006 Tahoes, Silverados, Escalades, etc... for no additional charge.
Is it possible for you to make it a direct bolt-in for an 2007 Tahoe/Suburban? If so then I'm intrested. Also did the quoted price include shipping cost?
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Sometimes we lay out the boxes with what goes in them if we have a lot of special order builds at once =] dont feel bad if i dont write /lv5/ on your box. just means yours was the only thing i was workin on at the time
Hey Rusty no problem I'm just glad I got them and in quick time too. You had them shipped to me within a matter of 4 days after I had purchased them. Now I'm just waiting on my wires and isolator so I can get these subs in the truck.
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Wait a minute. I brought Lvl 4's with lvl5 coils and my box didn't say lvl5. What gives Rusty?.................Oh well I guess well find out if I did indeed get those coils or not within the next week are so.
Good luck with your build May03LT. If your like me I know you can't wait to hear your gear.
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Let me asks you guys this. When I was looking at the shop owners suburban, I notice the he went from the alterntor to the isolator then to the battery. All of the dual battery setups I've seen went from the pos of main battery to the isolator to the pos of the aux battery. Is there anything wrong with going from the Alt to the isolator?
Seeing that this will be the first time that I hook up two batteries in any car, and this is still a brand new truck, in my own mind I feel I would be safer if I included the isolator. So the isolator is in for now.
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Man,
Now I know why I hate going to local audio shops. Everyone wants to down the shit you have just so you can buy the shit they offer. I went to one shop today just to see if they carried some memphis speakers that I've been trying to buy for the truck. I notice that the owner of the shop was rolling an 2007 suburban as well so I figured I'd ask how much they would charge me to hookup my second battery since I was already there. They asked me what I was running and what not. I told them I was running the dual DC's off my autotek and that I wanted a single aux battery for now cause I'll be going to a with an additional alt at the end of the summer. This guys goes on to tell me how many watts my amp won't put out, that I don't need two runs of 1/0, and that a second alt isn't necessary if I just go ahead and ditch my factory alt. I then told the guy that I wanted to keep the factory system in tack and that the purpose of the second alt would be to power my sound system. I told him that I was intrested in running the Powermaster Xs series battery thinking that he carried it cause he had mentioned to me that he installed their alternators. Guy tells me this story about how powermaster didn't make their own batteries that some other company made them and that the Kinetik were way better batteries. So guy goes ahead and quote me $580 to intall an isolator and a single HC1800. They didn't carry the battery in stock so I would have to wait fo them to order it, which would take about a week. I'm like okay let me think about that and took his card and left.
I hate shops that are about trashing the stuff you have. Why can't I go to a shop and when I tell them what I have they respond with a "how can we assist you with what you have" as appose to "yeah that not as good as product A that I carry maybe you should buy this instead". The messed up part about this was that He has some Bravox speakers there that sounded pretty good. I was about to buy them, but then he goes on to trash Diamond Audio (I just brought a pair of the D363.5 for my front doors). He says that their quality went down due to them selling the company to some korean company. Says he's down for selling only American made products but offered to sell me some speakers made from Brazill?
Well I guess they are American made.....South American. I then go to shop number two. Here I just ask for the price they would charge me for an HC1800. Again they didn't have the battery in stock. They wanted $350 for the HC1800 battery and then I was gonna have to pay to have them ship me the battery so total cost was gonna come out to around $435.
.So now that I know I can't find an Kinetik or a PowerMaster locally, I'm now more than sure I'm gonna run an Optima Yellow Top. I stopped by Autozone tonight and picked up a battery tray and battery hold down. Tomorrow I start on the box build and order my wires. I'm gonna go with KnuKoncepts. Do you guys think that a Yellow Top 800/700 cca battery is good enough for now? That seems like the biggest battery I can find locally.
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hey just to let you know, i went to costco this weekend and saw the yellowtops for $170
Thanks for the tip. I'll swing by my local Costco tomorrow after work to see what they have.
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The knukonceptz fleks cable is definately worth the money! Just curious why do you want/need to isolate your 2nd battery? I dont see the use in doing it. I have heard it keeps the one for strictly your starting/ electrical and uses the 2nd strictly for the system. Why not just use both of them at the same time? My truck came from the factory with 2 batts wired in paralell. Sounds like youre heading in a good direction though!
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Thanks. The resason why I'm cosidering the isolator is because my truck is still under warranty and I want to make sure that I install this stuff in such a way that it doesn't void that at all. I just did a pric compare on Knu vs the 2 kicker amp kits and I can get much much more from Knu for a lot less money. So I may go with knu, which I need to order by tomorrow if I want the stuff here for next week. As for the battery I'm still trying to figure out if I should go with Yellow Top or Powermaster. Right now I can't even find a shop near me that carries Powermaster locally. I guess I'm gonna be bussy this weekend
Man this is an expensive hobby when your trying to go big.
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Okay............
How about this
(1) Optima / 12 Volts, 900 CCA (1125 CA) Yellow Top Battery - $250. (Autozone)
(2) Kicker PKD1 1/0 amp wire kit - $120 each (Sonix Electronic)
That alone would be right at $490 give or take.
Now about the isolator would I need one? I mean I plan on getting a second alt in a few months that will be installed only to charge the batteries for the stereo would it be wise to get the isolator or not? Keep in mind this is all going into a 2007 suburban.
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I need to get my electrical going in the truck if I want to be done with my truck by next friday. So I need ideals as far what wires and battery to run. Right now I gonna go off the stock 160a alternator in the suburan for now until the end of August. I should have the money saved up then to get the second alt to run a dual alt setup. So for now just so I can hear my DC subs I want to go with 1 additonal battery up under the hood and two runs of 1/0 to the second row seats. That's were I'm gonna mount the autotek amp. The autotek has dual pos/neg 4g power terminals, so my questions is what wires should I go with. I'm thinking of going with KnuKoncepts Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0g Black Power/Ground Wire. However I'm hearing a lot of good stuff about the kicker hyper flex cables as well but I can't find a store online that sales it by the foot. What about eD's power wire that they use, anyone here used they're wires before? If I could stay at or under $200 for power and ground wires/terminal/dis block I should be good. I have some dis blocks from my durango install that I could re-use so I could save some green backs from that as well as some 4ga wiring.
Do you guys know where I can find a battery isolator online at? I need to know where to find one at so I can figure that in with the cost of my additional battery. Once I can find the isolator, then that will leave me with a battery choice. I was over at Jegs.com and saw that the powermaster D3100 over there was at $300. Anyone know where I could find that at a cheaper price? I may just go with a yellow top for now and then switch over later on when I get the second alt. However if I could find a D3100 for a good price I may pick it up.
So to sum everything up. I've got about $450 - $500 to spend on power wires/rca/battery terminals/dis blocks/battery and I need some help trying to figure out what to get. The cheaper I can stay the better both the wife and I will be
Just to note - This is for daily driving and not a comp car. With that said I don't need 7 batteries of 5 300a alternators. Total peak wattage of my system should be right at or just below 5K.
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Where are the VIDS???????? WHERE ARE THE VIDS!!!!!!
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Yup.....I'm now in the QBABA mode........Quit B!tch!n And Build Already.
So I took Accordman advise and ditched the exta baffle on the bottom of the box, and just went with one divider board instead of 2. Those two changes alone have given me roughtly .2 cf of space to bring me up to aroud 5.4 cf of total space per sub. Not the 5.75 recommended by DC but close enough. I still kept the port lenght at 31 and my tuning is now looking right at around 33Hz.
I still had a hint of doubt so I did one more mockup, this time single 6inch port that around 19inches long. Still around 21.75 inches high and that gave me a tunning of around 30Hz. I get roughly around 11.3 cf of combined airspace. That is including the port/subs/45's displacement.
So this is it. No more sketchup drawing. No more waiting. My day tomorrow will start off with me and the old dude(my dad) at home depo buying sheets of MDF and maybe a tablesaw. What I'm looking for out of this final post by me in this particular thread is between these two enclosure designs........which one would you go with? The dual port box tuned to around 33Hz or the single port box tuned around 30Hz
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Just 1 or 2ohm. No 4ohm models available in the lvl 4's.
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yall know i'm gonna bump this post right. it too many of yall in here running DC subs. i'm sure someone in here can help me out.
EDIT:
I didn't see Amatts and Expo's pose so I may have jumped the gun on my bump. it kind of hard to read a thead from a PDA phone.
I'll check out you're replies when I get home. -
with those dimensions, with my calc (it's similar to amatt's, but i got it from somewhere else) i also came up with 21 hz for tuning. BUT...if it's a separate chamber box, the length should not be the full length of the box. it should be for the chamber that you are tuning. so... change the length of the box to 24.5, and i come up with a tuning of 35.26 hz.
also...that gives each chamber 4.7 cubes of air after displacement
ExpoSport, how did you come up with 4.7 cubes of air space? My numbers are showing 5.1 with the 31 inch long port? I also redid the numbers again this time calcuation each chamber as appose to the whole enclosure and this is what I got this time:
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you need to put 49"in the width under (the box outer dimensions) also you need to change the (slot port dimension height) to 22.5" instead of 21" in Amatt85's box calc spreadsheet thats the things i see wrong.
the lvl 4 18's on dc site say cubes should be
suggested ported 5.75³ ft
suggested SPL ported 8³ ft
the box design looks good
LOL...sorry about that. It was like 3 something in the morning when I posted the box calc picture. Here is another screen with all the correct number plotted in and still I'm showing 21.02Hz from Amatt's deal, while my own number show right at around 34Hz.
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Any reason you are doing dual chamber/ dual port?
My reason was for some additial bracing besides just the double top and bottom boards and sub stibility. I've floated around with a common chamberd box as well. But right now I think this is more of what I'm gonna go with. Trust me, I've got at least two other threads on this same issue in SMD and multiply box designs floating around out there.
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So I've been struggling with comming up for a design for my subs for about a month now. Everytime I think I've got it, I plug in the number and I'm off by a long shot. My goal is to try and build a box for 2 LvL 4 18's tuned between 30 - 36hz. So if I fall within any of those numbers within that range them I'm good to go. As some of you know I'm been posting everywhere as well as PM'ing a lot of you guys here for advise and what not. This lastest box that I did in sketchup is going to be the one that I'll more than like build for my truck. I just want to make sure my tuning is right. Now when I did the number today I came up with a tuning of 34.3hz, yet when I plug those number into Amatt85's Box Calc spread-sheet I get a tuning of 29.44hz. Now I'm confussed all over again.
Now this box still falls under my external measurement of 24Height x 49Width x 26Dept, and I found out that the DC's take about 0.25f^3 of displacement.
Internal numbers are as follows: 21Height x 47.5Width x24.5Dept. Throw in the 1.5 divider board in the middle of the box and I get around 6.85f^3 of space. that's of course not factoring in all the other stuff. When I factor in the displacement of the subs ports and the pair of 45's that I'll use for the box I come up with a final number of 5.11f^3 per chamber. I then plug the following fomula into good ole google and I get Fb =0.159*sqrt(84(1.84*100000000) / (5.114*1728(30 + 0.823*sqrt(84)))) which comes out to 34.3hz.
So my question is, who'se right? Me with google's help, or Amatt85's Box Calc spreadsheet?
Take a look:
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Hey, just wanted to remind you that your indeed white
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I can say from experience that these boxes are no magic boxes. They were good quality, nice well rounded sounding boxes. They won't do anything on the meter. Yes the 6.5 got down for what they were.
I guess the overall point of this was to show that it doesn't take a shit load of power and some huge ass subs to make your car sound good. Hell he fooled a lot of people with those pair of 6.5 woofers. Not saying that they were gonna break records with the setup but it does show how important your box design plays in your overall sub system and not just the subwoofer an amp.
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Funny how you guys keep suggesting Lawn-care and the guy not only stated but show you pictures of why he can't work out in the sun
. To the thread starter, sounds like your young (i.e. still in highschool) why not look for a co-op or paid internship? I work for a utility company in my city and every summer they hire high-school and college students for different internship postions. They pay pretty well and you get some real world work experiece other than stocking shelves or getting carts. If no co-op is avaliable then like some of the others have said look into places like Lowes/HomeDepo type of work. Some of these places have decent pay and benefits. Just my $.02 worth. -
I'll bump this for another Lvl 4 18. Shit I'm having a hard enough time trying to design a box for two so doing one for three won't be to much of problem for me
3 lvl 4's off a single MM4000.1...........Maybe? -
LOL.......Smart Bum.
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Thanks KingSuv,
Man this was freaking hard to find.
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This video has to be a good 4+ years old. It was a guy who was running like two 6inch subwoofers in this horn type box. He had everyone who sat in his car thinking he was running bigger subs. Does anyone remember who did that video? All I remember was he had show the shit to Meade in one of the videos. Oh well it's late and I was trying to find this video since yesterday and had no luck. I figured someone here knows what I'm talking about and can find the video.
Well I guess they are American made.....South American. 
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I'll check out you're replies when I get home.
71 Impala Back From Paint
in Member Rides & Builds -- Show off your whip, Show off your System!
Posted · Edited by pervitizm
That green candy is sick.....SICK! I can't wait to afford me an ol skool. Although I want to us an old mopar C-body car. I haven't seen anyone with a old plymouth fury or a chrysler 300.