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pervitizm

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Posts posted by pervitizm

  1. Plywood Enclosures

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    True, but if you don't have any money to buy wood from Lowes yet have an endless supply of plywood to make and brace a decent box isn't that worth it? We're not really talking about a 150db monster build here. I'm sure if guy has some cash he'll go and buy some MDF if he could. But to me it sounds like he's trying to save some money and already has enough plywood to temporarily get the job done. Also building different enclosures out of free plywood till you figure out the one that sounds best to you is better than dropping $32 per 49x90 sheet of MDF any day of the week. Can always go back and rebuild the box with better wood once he figures it out.

    Exactly. I've never built a box before, and no I definitely won't be hitting 150 db with 2 12s tuned to 29 hz, I just thought I'd save some money and try out building a box or two out of this plywood. If they don't sound great no big deal. I was just wondering if I would be wasting my time.

    The one thing you won't be wasting is money. It weird how we do one thing in car audio but home audio guys do something different. I swear I see a lot of home subwoofer builds done using plywood.

  2. Plywood Enclosures

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by pervitizm

    2v preouts cause you to turn the knob a good bit past half, I don't doubt it, prolly not all the way to 3/4 but it's a good bit past half I'd say

    Bah. 2V preouts. Never dealt with them. Never wanted to. Glad I never did.

    Yes the box can be built out of plywood. No I don't suggest it. Drop $40 at Lowes or Home Depot or a similar place near you that carries good MDF and build the box out of that. The plywood isn't going to be as easy to work with and won't sound anywhere near as good. Also, you're going to spend more time bracing the plywood box than it would be worth. Good MDF, good glue, clamp it every which way and then let it sit for a few hours and then be done with it. Carpet/paint at your leisure. Better to have a good MDF box with no carpet or paint than an ugly ass plywood one that you have to drop money to cover up anyway.

    True, but if you don't have any money to buy wood from Lowes yet have an endless supply of plywood to make and brace a decent box isn't that worth it? We're not really talking about a 150db monster build here. I'm sure if guy has some cash he'll go and buy some MDF if he could. But to me it sounds like he's trying to save some money and already has enough plywood to temporarily get the job done. Also building different enclosures out of free plywood till you figure out the one that sounds best to you is better than dropping $32 per 49x90 sheet of MDF any day of the week. Can always go back and rebuild the box with better wood once he figures it out.

  3. Plywood Enclosures

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Gains were set with an O-scope...

    O_o gains were set with an O-scope and the gain knob is still turned to 3/4?

    Yes that could be possible if the source unit that's delivering the signal is shitty. However to stay on topic, you can build the box out of plywood, I would suggest that you brace the hell out of it. And also seal it up really good too, maybe even carpet the box too just to make sure you've got a really good sealed enclosure.

  11. THE 1ST DC AUDIO LEVEL 6

    in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!

    Posted · Edited by pervitizm

    all right so my name is kevin im new to dc audio and this forum but heres some pics of the DC AUDIO LEVEL 6 18 its about 120lbs around 54 kilos its heavy but thanks to ana chris and rusty i email rusty about 52 times to find out when this level 6 was coming out i almost bout 2 level 5 10s but i rather have this big boy im thinking around 8-9 k on it im moveing to brasil and its comeing with me its going to be in a car juts like the passat wagon but a bit smaller hey enjoy the pics

    igeajaelevel6108.jpg

    igeajaelevel6141.jpg

    igeajaelevel6142.jpg

    igeajaelevel6112.jpg

    igeajaelevel6118.jpg

    igeajaelevel6124.jpg

    igeajaelevel6125.jpg

    Fixed. Nice subs btw. Hopefully I'll have mines by the spring of next year. Need to save some serious cash first.

  14. HELP!!!!

    in Head Units-Processors and Eq's

    Posted · Edited by pervitizm

    *Update*

    First off let me say thank you to all of you guys for your suggestions and imput. I got it working again this morning. I had to pull out the multi-meter to see that I had the wire connected to the wrong pin hole. It should have been plugged right next to the ground instead I had it two spots over from the ground. As soon as I relocated the pin, the amplifier kicked right on. So thanks alot for the suggestions and the pictures. Those did help me out. Still most likley will order the spare harness from pacparts.com. Its just that now its not an absolute neccessity.

  15. HELP!!!!

    in Head Units-Processors and Eq's

    Posted

    You either didnt put the pin back in the correct hole or you did not put the pin in far enough to make a connection on the radio.

    Most likely you did not insert it all the way until you hear/feel the little pin click.

    They are a pain to insert. I know when I do video bypass's on the screens, I have to use a tiny pick to push the wire fully into the spot for it to latch.

    Almost all Pioneer harness are the same, unless you start getting into double din screens and flip outs.

    Just searching the model number on ebay gave me a link with a picture.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=400122815944

    http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Photos/Default.aspx?i=130P7000BT&tp=5684

    another good shot of a different model with similar features and cost.

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=22379&picture_id=374551

    That's the thing. I put it back in pin 3 (next to the ground wire) until I heard it click back in. It felt tight as if it wasn't going to come out unless I forced it out. I'll pull the deck out in the morning to test again. Thanks for the links to the photos. I spent all night yesterday trying to find a big enough picture were I could see where that wire went to. I'll update this tomorrow after i try to fix it. Either it will work or it won't.

  16. HELP!!!!

    in Head Units-Processors and Eq's

    Posted

    That's what I thought. I plug it in and now I get no signal to the amp at all. I went to www.pacparts.com to see about buying a replacement harness but thats like 3-4 days for them to get the harness in and then about a week to get it shipped to me. Fuck I guess I'll have to pull the HU out again and try to see if I can get it to work or else its waiting another two weeks to hear my system again.

  18. HELP!!!!

    in Head Units-Processors and Eq's

    Posted

    So toinght I was putting my Pioneer DEH-P7000BT HU back into the truck after spending all day yesterday hooking up my Diamond audio D362.5 componets and Kicker ZX650.4 amp. Everything worked well during testing yesterday evening. Well tonight I wanted to finish off the install before a trip I have to make in the morning. I was having a hard time last night getting the HU to sit back into the dash. This was due to me now having 3 sets of RCA cables hooked up. Anyway to make a long story short, tonight I wanted to get the radio in and be done with it. Well while struggling with it to night the remote wire came out of the Pioneer harness. I was able to plug it back into the remote wire pin I thought was the correct pin location. I couldn't find the harness diagram to save my ass. Anyway I plugged the remote wire pin back into the harness and now my amp will not cut on. The radio works fine but the amp will not cut on. Anyone knows where the remote wire pin is suppose to go?

    I placed in in the third slot on the top of the harness plug. If you were to look at the plug it would go ground wire (black), empty slot, then the remote wire.

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