newls1
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Posts posted by newls1
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here again ...... http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp
Damn, i should be your best friend right now!
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for an in-between amp that is better then the hifonics, and "JUST" under the fosgate, look into a US AMPS MD3D. I run them, and are excellent. Im partial to USAMps though, as they bring me back to my high school years......Hmmmm VLX400 baby!
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the fosgate is better all around, no question about it. Damn fine amp.
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you might like buying here BETTER! I know I sure do. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/
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yes it will, also check your thread in the sub woofer section, I just posted you to a link on Fi's site to explain the options.
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yes, that is a good progy, helped me a few times.
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for example this would fit no problem. with more space to spare, probably could get two in there
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046
I really hope that your not planning on going with a pre made shit box. You must make a box PER THE SPEAKERS SPECS or 2 things will happen, 1) I think it will viod the speakers warrenty, and 2) it will sound like shit. These pre made boxes are tuned high typically, and port size will be to small.
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alpine is good, but there are companies that I call "underground companies" that you might not ever heard of, unless your at comps, and "in the know". For slightly more money I would go with F.I Q's or the BL line. For 2 15's in either Q or BL's your looking at ~600$ plus a good 2000w amp add another 4-500$, so your in it 1100$ already just for the sub stage. This leaves ~8-900$ for vocal stage, and that is plenty. The options are endless. There is DC audio/ Digital Designs / Diablo audio, etc......
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here......if your wanting to stay all alpine, these I hear a decent subs. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4194_A...D+-TYPE+R-.html
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wait i only said that so you guys can get a feel for what im looking for. this is my first system but i know what im looking to achieve and i was just trying to get that across. but its cool though im not tripping, you guys cant read my mind,lol. i was trying to keep it all alpine but if you guys got better suggestions i would like to hear them. but i really want some major spl coming out the trunk so im looking for the right sub/amp combo. also trying to stick with 15's
this is my cardomain page so you can see what i was planning better
Your question is a "LOADED" one. What I like, might not be what you like, you know what I mean? If you want my opinion, I love my F.I BL's 18"ers, and my US AMPS MD3D's combo. Gets very loud, AND CLEAR. People here love F.I/DC/DD/etc..... So throw up what your limit is, and we can point you in the right direction. Your alpine amp now (1000watt correct) PDX series is a good amp, so u might want to get another one of them, and use 2 15" each having there own amp.
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i have a 1999 nissan altima (gxe). i already have alpine cda9887 HU. im in the process of purchasing alpine type x 6.5 components (spx-17REF) for the front doors and type r coax's (spr-17c) for the rear. The components will be ran off the pdx2.150 and the rears off the HU. in the trunk is 2 type r 15's (1542) ran off a pdx1.1000. im thinking about adding a optima YT to the list. should i? right now i think i have an autocraft. i know my system may not be as loud as some of you guys (or powerful) so should i add a new alteranator? if so which would be a good choice? im trying to get the most out of my setup so are my amp choices good? will the pdx1.1000 be enough for the two 15's? what im looking is for excellent sql in the cabin and at the same time when i pul up to a stop light i want the other cars to say"what does he have in that trnk." but i think my main concern is should i invest in a new battery and alternator(which one). i hope this makes sense i just woke up,lol.
**imprint kit will be bought after everything is installed
It might appear to me that you still have that "annoying kid mentality" I dont understand why people make there stereos loud at a light. I have (what I consider a very loud setup) and NEVER make my shit loud at a light...EVER! It is annoying to people, rude, and you never know if a popo is near. Back to the question at hand here: I dont know what your stock alt is amperage wise, but personally your not using alot of watts/amps yet to "NEED" a HO alt, but in turn IT IS NEVER A BAD IDEA TO HAVE ONE CAUSE IN THE FUTURE IT CAN COME INTO PLAY. I would buy a Yellowtop/kenitic/power master batt for the rear, alond with 0/1ga wire to parellel it with the front batt. THat will help out ALOT for you RIGHT NOW, and if money is ok for you right now, look into a MLA module (this is where the shit goes down in combo with multi batts) I can knock for a while and still sustain 15.2v (im running dual alts, 2 D3100's, and 1 redtop underhood, and a 15.3v MLA) G/L with what you do, and dont piss off people (unless your demoing of course) cause you will give us people bad reps......
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I looked and looked but found no such jumper...I'll get pictures up here in a bit..... :
Im here for ya! Just PM me if you want
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your answer is somewhere with in my long post I did, try it. If you can take super close up pictures of the motherboard, i'll find the exact jumper for you.
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Well, Im dying over here. Im a out of work High Performance Parts store manager with 9 years experience in racing and bullshiting (the best part) Im in the ATL area, and NEED A JOB VERY BAD. Im honest, hard working, and honest (i'll say it again) I just completed my 7 month schooling to become an EMT-I and just need to pass my NREMT exam (2nd try) but REALLY need a job to hold me over till I can start my carrer in the medical field. Anyone out there that may need me to help them in my area......PLEASE! Also, I should note that im very good in the PC side of things too. Thank you
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thats a sound card it looks like you have a on board video card. when you turn it on do you get a hp logo or anythign, if s owe can play around in the bios and ee if we can get to anything or we can boot it maybe pressing f8 and do a last known good configuration.
wish you were local, id have thi shit fixed in 5 mins lol
I'd have it fixed in 4min LOL
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OK, im not understanding your last post, does the PC boot now and all is fine, or NO? By the model number of your PC I pulled up this: http://reviews.cnet.com/HP_Pavilion_Media_...7-32328472.html . Looks like your PC is a A64 X2 5000+ with 2GB ram, and an INTEGRATED GRAPHICS CARD. THere are 2 main things that a computer will not boot from, AND THE MOST COMMON IS RAM, AND RAM FAILURE HAPPENS ALL THE TIME! Typically when ram goes bad you *MIGHT* here 2 beeps, and thats it. When a GPU goes bad, you *might* here 1 LONG beep, followed my 2 short beeps. If your not hering anything, well.......that is normal too. Personally this is what I would do first: Somewhere on your motherboard is a "jumper" that will allow you to "clear CMOS" Typically it will be labeled JP1-JP3 oon the board itself (only 3 pins wide) And what you need to do is lets say the jumper is covering pins 1 and 2, you need to remove the jumper, and place it over pins 2 and 3. Leave it there for a few seconds (10-15) (also have the PC unplugged from the wall before you do this) and while you have the jumper over pins 2 and 3, hit the power button, this will short the board, and capacitors which will in turn clear the ROM (read only memory) Now take the jumper off pins 2 and 3, and put it back EXAACTLY THE WAY IT WAS BEFORE!!! (which I think should be pins 1 and 2) and plug in the power cord again, and cross your fingers to see if she will boot.
If not booting still after all this, follow me: Looks like you have 2 sticks of mem in that PC. Remove 1 of them and see if it boots. If still not, put that one back in, and remove the other stick, and try it now. Basically your trying to see if this is a ram failure issue. Try to boot your PC using 1 stick of ram, and still no boot after this, looks like a GPU (graphics card) issue. You are lucky enough to have a PCIe x16 slot on that motherboard, so buy a decent GPU for it, and we can go further with this later on. G/L
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I have NEVER said that DC powers alts are too good to be true. I have however consistently said that people who say that they are so easy to get a hold of 24 hrs a day are a little overzealous it is too good to be true. That is not negative or bashing in anyway. It is the truth.
This thread goes to show this very point.
This person was looking at the different companies for alternators and found that the one you hype did not respond to his needs.
EVERY company has customer service problems some are less than others but some people prefer to talk directly with someone who works at a company and not hear excuses for not being able to get ahold of the employees.
I have not bashed the product involved here in anyway.
You however do not work for the company and by you trying to pass yourself off as an employee or a salesman for the company hurts the image far more than My posts pointing out to research a company before buying from them.
I hope that you have a wonderful day and if you have anything else to say on this topic or me talking out of my ass feel free to pm me or push the report button.
Look man, you have made some points here, and I can understand everything you have typed in here. You must have cought rob in a bad time or a day where he may have been off. The fact is, if you called the number again, he or dave would pick up. I think he might have a new number as-well. This thread has gotten out of control with "who is better/best/etc.." and this simply wont help anyone. I dont want to have anyone hate my name here, so im just going to say.......Take it easy bud!
It's all good bro...i just had to jump on sumn quick. the ol' factory one wasnt cuttin' it. i've been takin it easy on the replacement, and i cant take it anymore!!As far as the "ALTERNATOR WAR" i started in this thread...it's different strokes for different folks, you know. some like pepsi's and some like cokes
Exactly!
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Dr. Johnson.... you need to tone it down a notch... you have no proof that DC Power's alts are too good to be true... quit talking out of your ass. Show me proof that they suck besides that robbie has been moving to a bigger shop so he can keep up with the growth he is having.
Jesus christ... anywhere i see where you post it's just all negative shit and bashing.
Demonstr8,
Good luck with the alt, im sorry i didn't see this sooner... I would of gotten you a quote within a couple hours. :-\
About damn time you chimed in here!
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Without knowing anymore info about the specs your pc has (motherboard/cpu ram, etc..) it will be tuff to pin point more ideas, BUT.....Being that your having a "No monitor turn on issue" This is a low level/hardware issue/conflict problem. The guy above who said that maybe removing the monitor drivers, and re install new monitor drivers wont help this issue any. Is your GPU (video card) PCIe, AGP, or PCI interface? If it is a newer PC (meaning bought with in the last 2/3 years) you more then likely will have it either 1 0r 2 ways, intergrated into the motherboard, or PCIe slot. Sometimes a "good" motherboard will feature 2 PCIe slot, perhaps try to swap slots. You more then likely have a BIOS issue or a failing GPU. If your GPU ends up being intergrated into the motherboard, and your motherboard DO HAVE EXPANSION SLOTS, you can always buy a aftermarket GPU, install it, then boot into the PC's BIOS, and disable the onboard crap. Also, we cant rule out that RAM might be the issue here as-well. Take the ram out of the slots, and swap them into another slot. If possible, take a pic of the guts of your PC, I can go further with that. Need more help, let me know.
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I live about 30min west of the ATL area, and never see anything out here for us. Does anyone know of anything coming up?
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When it was another Company; They were bashing them every chance he could get. Why didnt you stand up for them? I am not bashing here it is the truth. In fact there was more than one person inquiring to there services that did post in their section or other areas. Once again my statement above holds true. I am not saying I would not buy from them but I am saying if something sounds too good to be true it probably is. Common sense should always rule a decision. When people feel they need to sell you on a product or their company I shy away from them. I do not need a vacuum salesman mentality to sell me something I am looking for. end of story.
WOW!
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DAT would be the question wouldn't it, sir
I guess. Haven't read much up on DAT lately, but looking at the pix of the amps, they look amazing. G/L bro.
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Thanks, man...Hopefully it will last until I can upgrade :01nocomment8so:
Upgrade.........Sheeesh I would love your amp. what is better then a T4K, a T15K!
Maybe You Guys Can Help Me Out
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
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running a sub @ 1ohm/2ohm means nothing for the longevity of the driver. Typically, using 1ohm load on the amp will be harder on the cars electric system, but running an amp @ 2ohm, will make LESS power. First and for-most, you need to do the BIGIII to your car/truck, then add a back batt, then add an HO alt if you need more power, and or exceed 2500watts (this is just my theory)