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newls1

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Posts posted by newls1

  1. Technical Problems After Upgrading Alternator?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    They have not been around much and saying that he is just a call away is far from the truth lately. I am not saying do not buy from them but read their area. Even the admins have had a very difficult time getting ahold of them. Lets be completely honest here. no BS

    Im not one to defend a company, and hate the excuses people always say like, "He has been really busy" well in this case this is the truth. Rob, and Dave are moving into a new warehouse/building (Larger) and there website is down for a complete over-haul to make it easier for us to use and "purchase" from. Please pordon me for sticking up for a company that can pull in $100,000+ a month for a reason, HIS PRODUCT IS OF THE FINEST QUALITY, ACTUAL PRODUCT DOES AT "LEAST" WHAT IT IS RATED TO DO (I.E a 270a alt will put out like 280+a) AND HIS SERVICE NO ONE CAN TOUCH!. Look......Im not going to say ANYTHING about any other company here that makes alts, im sure there all just fine as-well. It has been my experiance that when I was looking for an alt back 2 months ago, mechman, iraggi, ohio gen, etc... just couldnt seem to answer an email, and or calling them resulted in a conversation that was short, and NOT TO THE POINT, cause the person I was speaking to couldn't take the time of day to talk to me. Rob @ DC power proved to me that my money would be well spent, and if I ever had a problem, he is just a call away. It turned out to be true! A week later I got my dual alt setup, brackets, etc.... but guess what, there packing guy forgot to ship the 2nd 2" pulley, So I called him up nearly @ 9PM that night, and the NEXT DAY @ 11am I had a pulley in my hands. ROB spent $30 to overnight a $5 part. SERVICE right there my friends! I find myself calling him 1-2 times a month now just to shoot the shit with him, his is that kind of guy, and certainly should be respected.

    ""DR. JOHNSON"" I ask you........ please dont accuse me for not telling the truth, THAT IS BS! Chode I think was having an issue getting a hold of him, but if you read the thread he has going on, Rob got in there and the issue has been fixed. Rob was down for a while as moving from 1 warehouse to another isn't exactly a 1-2 day event. When you only have 2 people to move with (So I have been told) takes time.......

    Here is the DC Power # 1-888-441-0144

  5. Car Keeps Dieing With System Hooked Up

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    put the 280sp in your 100 hp car and i bet you it will stall it (but the alternator has to be under high load). lol. and i never said to remove it with the car on.... lol. show me where i put that please. if the b+ wire is disconnected with the alternator plug it will only act as a pulley and nothing will fry....but if you leave the alternator plug on while the b+ is off it will cook it. feel free to call robbie and he will tell you the same thing i just did. anyways, it's not worth arguing over to me and im over it.

    To the OP glad you got it figured out.

    you might want to re-read everything I wrote before, as Im agree with most of what you are saying.....if your last post was aimed at me? we only differ about pulling the B+ wire while the car is on. Yes, if the alt is unplugged, then all it is, is a pully.....

  6. Anyone Have Pics Of The 09model Bl?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    you are my twin :friends:

    I am getting 4 18" BL's in my Tahoe pretty soon.

    already started on the box design.

    are you going to be adding some more US amps?

    I might consider going with DC just because I want to tune a little lower on the new box and DC's Fs is around 28hz :o

    they sure do take power though... you just need to let them break in a while for them to get real loud and sound great doing it.

    Lets get this right.....you are my twin! LOL J/K. Yes, I will be using another MD3D linked, and I will be starting my box here shortly. It will be awhile before I get the subs though, I NEED A JOB FIRST! The box will be n/p as my home depot credit card has 299$ or more no payments for 12months, so I will be loading up on wood here shortly.

  7. Anyone Have Pics Of The 09model Bl?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    thank you for the FAST response! The 08/09 models look the same, I guess the magnet would only look different if I had both next to each other. Either way, I guess I will be ordering 4 18" 09 BL's here shortly, and sell these 2 08 models. The BL is a great speaker, and just dont seem to want to part with Fi yet. I was considering going to DC, however my mind is stuck to FI.

  10. Car Keeps Dieing With System Hooked Up

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by newls1

    for the record, you would NOT burn the alternator up if you disconnect the PLUG from the alternator and the B+ wire... it would think the car is OFF. you're telling me i can burn an alt by spinning it around while not installed? LOL!

    i was saying to disconnect it that way to take have the alternator freely turning to see if thats what was making it bog down and it was.

    oh and btw, yes the alt can stop the car from starting.... if the alt overpowered the engine :)

    /end discussion.

    Dude, chill out, and your incorrect about an alt stopping a car from starting. You might want to call your "GUY" that you advertise on here like crazy, you know, our forum friend Rob @ DC Power, we himself will tell you to NEVER remove the B+ wire while the car is on, this is just common sense. I need you to explain your idea behind what you said here, " oh and btw, yes the alt can stop the car from starting.... if the alt overpowered the engine." That makes no sense at all. Im not here to argue WITH ANYONE HERE, and don't want to piss you off, however my knowledge in automotive is somewhat high (No machanic, just more then normal wrenching knowledge) and im left scratching my fucking head with how an alt can over power the engine..... Not going to happen.

  12. Car Keeps Dieing With System Hooked Up

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by newls1

    I have had a Ford service dealership take a look at it ($80 an hour for an hour and a half) his conclusion was that the alternator wasnt big enough and it was bogging it down. but he also said he can't be certain because the alt was testing fine for 80+ amps of current draw.

    The local mechanic i took it to said it had to be something electrical but he couldnt pinpoint it. he didnt charge me since he couldnt find a problem.

    My alternator was "rebuilt" by a local shop. besides replacing the core, what else on the alt could be bad?

    EDIT: not in GA, stuck in Oklahoma. Thanks though

    Lots of fords use "fusable links" for the charging system, along with a fuse type setup. Locate the wire B+ wire coming off the alt, and follow every bit of it. You might run into a fusable link, which should become BEFORE the wire enters the fuse box. If you do, and the "LINK" looks to be ok, DONT REMOVE IT, but run a 8ga power wire along with it, and screw secure it in place, and see if this corrects your issue. If it does, then replace this 8ga wire with 0ga, when you do the big3. Also for good measure, run a ground from the batt "-" to the frame. Make sure you bolt it to the FRAME, and not a bolt head on a fender or something like that. Your car is a uni-body car, really only the front part of the engine cradle area has a frame. Make sure it is secure.

  14. Car Keeps Dieing With System Hooked Up

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by newls1

    To see if it's your alt... how about removing the pos wire from the alt and unplugging the plug on the alt... then start your car and see if it starts with no problems.... you wont be charging your batteries but this will let you know if it's your alt thats making your car get all sluggy.

    an alt will not stop a car from starting....period. So even if he un-plugs the alt, and removes the B+ cable from it, all that is doing is running the car on batt power only. Never remove the B+ cable while the car is running as you run the risk of either burning up the alt, or the ECM. everyone is going to have an opinion as to what HE/SHE thinks may be the issue. Spend the 75-100$ (What techs charge per hour of labor) and have a QUALITY TECH go over what your issue is with a fine tooth comb, and you will have it fixed in no time. Are you in the GA area, if so hit me up, I will help you for free. **EDIT** What I noticed with my 2000 camaro was that if my charging voltage (Running) dropped below 11.9v, the fuel pump kicks off, and the car WILL DIE OUT OF COURSE. It does this to prevent a LEAN condition which can cause several issues as we all know. Perhaps your ECM/PCM/ powertrain module is programmed something similar to this. Makes sense if you think about it.

  20. Sub Disorted? Or Still Not Enough Powa?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    If money isnt of to much concern for ya, I would 100% get a line driver to boost your signal anywhere from 5-8Vrms. That will help you all by itself. If your deck has a 2v output, and now your "Y" ing the RCA's, you have a decent voltage loss, plus the length of the RCA's them self will cause a little loss as well. I picked up a Memphis line driver from my local stereo shop for $65 cash (no tax) and made a nice difference.

  23. Dual Evga Gtx 285 - Sli

    in Computer Talk - News, technology, advice

    Posted

    Indeed, but I hate buying new stuff when there's crazy new technology that may or may not be compatible with current stuff just around the corner. I wouldn't buy a new CPU if I knew a new GPU was not far off (also considering that Nvidia and AMD will have something big to pull out to counter Larrabee) due to the risk of ending up with a computer with a massive bottleneck at the CPU :(

    true, true

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