newls1
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Posts posted by newls1
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I'm just gonna sit on my good old E6600 until Larrabee comes along
Larrabee is going to be a GPU, not a CPU... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Larrabee_(GPU)
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both are still here
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holy fuck! That looks very nice. Think that can do 4 18"s in the back of a tahoe?
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I've had some seriously hot CPUs under a shitty 2x120mm rad loop with awful rads (aluminium single pass) and an awful block and they were relatively fine.
Case in point was my old 805D, running at 4ghz with 1.6vcore that thing had a thermal output of like 235w, never got over 55 degrees. I'm sure the same could be achieved with a good quality 120mm rad in a well set up loop, aren't the i7's meant to be far more thermally efficient?
With the bleed screw, do you just take that out then hold your fillport higher than the top of the rad then fill it until the rad overflows?
And man, I feel you on the stupid watercooling mistakes... ever fired up a loop without remembering to connect a fitting deep down inside your case somewhere? Thank god for de-ionized water and the fact that I always test run my loops with no power to the computer before I turn it all on... all my soundcard needed was a BBQ and an umbrella and it could have had a pool party down there...
THe issue with i7's is the built in mem controller creats so much heat, that is why they can be a bastard to cool. Dont get me wrong, tons of people have an i7 on a dual rad that is a POS, they might think 70-75c load temps is fine (I believe the thermal cap is 105c before it will throttle down) Personally, I wouldn't accept a load temp above 62-65c for an i7. Like I said earlier, using an i7 with HT on (Enables all logical cores for a total of 4 physical, 4 logical) add in the heat from the mem controller, you will have a hot running CPU. The new 32nm i7's will be out sometime soon, this should really help the heat issue, but ini turn, the new "d0" stepping also helped heat.
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OK, just hitm e up to see there still around. appreicate it.
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Anyway, this thread is going way off topic, MEADE, you need to clock up those 285's to 730+Core / 1585+ shader / 2700+ Mem speeds. Use the precision overclocking evga program, and show us what you can get. Use furmark benchmark to test for stability and heat, and remember this, your GPU's will never reach temps that furmark makes, so you know that if you can pass furmark, you can PLAY ANY GAME without worries.
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Wow, steve you amazed me. I saw the word "gtx" and "285" and i was...speechless. But its a good thing =)
I am also a fellow computer nerd. I just finished a christmas build, here is my new setup.
Core i7 920 OC to 3.2 on water
4gigs of DDR3
(3) 1tb 7200rpm HDD's
Asus Rampage MB
(1) EVGA GTX 295 (looking to get a 2nd, but my car will be taking my money from me here in a little bit)
And a Lian Case.
You do know the new re-done version of the GTX295 is coming out very soon, so you might want to find a GTX295 sooner then later. The new GTX295 will have both GPUs on one board (just like the ATi 4870x2) At this point im not sure if the SLi connector will line up (they should) with the older design 295, but you would think nvidia would have thought of people mixing the 2 version together. Here is a link to the re-designed GTX295 ( http://www.techpowerup.com/94054/First_Sin...or_Spotted.html )
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IIRC Dell used rebadged PCP&C PSUs in the AlienWare and XPS cases. None of their OEM stuff was really up to the task
Ideally you want one of the massive single rail ones but as mentioned above a quality 1000w PSU with plenty of amps on the +12 rail/s should run almost anything you can throw at it right now.
IMO you want separate loops for the CPU and GPUs, with the way things are with GPUs these days you could probably get away with a single quality 120mm rad on the CPU on one loop and a dual 120mm rad loop for the GPUs.
Otherwise you have to use very very free-flowing blocks in your system (3 complex blocks in a row = no flow = hot) and thermally it's a lot better - with only a single rad and the blocks in series the last chip in the loop is going to be getting very warm water through it anyway.
You could use a large common reservoir at the end of the loop but again this could be inefficient i.e if the GPU loop runs a lot warmer than the CPU one.
Watercooling is like doing a big system in a car - if you just dive in and do it you might get good results but it could always be better. If you carefully plan your loop/s and think about the little things you'll end up with a better system in the end.
That rig above is hotness but personally I was never a big fan of putting the rad at the top of the system (unless you had a T-line at the same height as the top of the rad) because they're a total bastard to bleed all the bubbles out of. Air in your rad = poor thermal efficiency.
My rule of thumb has always been rad at the lowest point, res at the highest point. That way it virtually bleeds itself, you just leave the plug out of your T-line or res for a few days
If your going to be watercooling a CORE i7, a single 120mm rad wont do it. With HT on, and all 4 cores enabled, a single 120mm rad will show diminishing returns. HT on, on these i7's really bring up the heat load. I have seen OCs of 4.3+Ghz stable on i7's (i920) with HT off, but when that HT gets enabled, you must jack up the Vcore beyond the 45nm barrier of 1.375v and heat becomes tuff to handle. The new "D0" stepping i7 is out now, but I have not had a chance to play with 1 yet, but my fellow people over on XS have had excellent results. Of course you can run vcore of 1.4+ through these pigs, but you must keep the un-core, in check with the Vdimm (1.65) as the mem controller is built into these new chips, or you will have some bad issues. SKT1366 is fun though after you achieve a stable OC, and very speedy.
People all have there own personal favorite way to mount rads, res'es, etc.....The PA120.3 rad has a bleed screw in the rad itself, so bleeding it in that position is cake, just make sure your res cap is on and TIGHT before you unplug that bleed screw on the rad....holy shit, I forgot one time, and water came pouring out the res, was funny as shit to be honest.
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You know I thought finding my pix would be easier then this, but this is the only pic I can come up with at this time. This PC has the PA120.3 on the roof of the tower, guts are 2x GTX280's, 4GB, Q6600 @ 3.69GHz, etc...... This PC isn't mine, but one I build for a family friend of ours.
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To convert from air to h20 for both gpu's wont be cheap, but wont be overly expensive either. Here is what "I" would use to make a GPU only water loop:
1x D5 pump (vario model) $80
2x Swiftech mcw60-r Gpu waterblock (need a GT200 hold plate per gpu as well) 47$ per gpu + gt200 hold downs (???not sure on price)
2x swiftech GTX285 full cover heatsink $28 per GPU
1x Feser Xchanger dual 120mm radiator $110
10 feet of 1/2 I.D tubing $8
1x Swiftech micro-res $30 (of you can do a t-line for $10)
and all the misc stuff needed so add another $40
2x Y.L 88cfm 120mm fans $8
That is what it would take to build a extreme HIGHEND GPU loop. IF you wanted to add your CPU into the use the FESER quad 120mm radiator, that fucker is a beast. Use 100+CFM fans and that should rock the house. dB's will be about 40-45, so it wont be silent, but wont be screaming either. (Actually, what 1 person thinks is quite, another thinks its loud, so I'll leave that up to you to decide)
So this is where im going with this stuff. Just remember, if you can, mount the rad on top of the case using some brass hardware, or whatever, and if your lucky enough to have a central a/c vent near it, or blowing right over it, your temps will be insanely low. The fans on the rad will suck that cold air all over that rad, your idle temps might be 23-26c using like 1.45v and a massive 1+GHz OC...... w00t!
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good info! how much to convert my GPU's to W/C with your kit? how hard is it on a scale of 1-10 to get a waterblock on the gpu and get the plastic off shroud and fan out? also, got any pics of your rig?
BTW: here is what was originally purchased with my Alienware - i have since upgraded to 4gb or ram, overclocked to 2.4 and now the newcards...
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...t=0&start=0
do you think AW would skimp out and use a crappy P/S? seems like that would be a warranty nightmare so im hoping they are good....i dont know anything about the rails or how many amps it is...
If you take a side off your case, and look on the PSU itself, it will state what specs it has, might be in a tight area, or you may have to pull it out, but IT WILL state the specs. A/W (which is owned by DELL) typically uses decent speced parts, much better quality then a off the shelf DELL, or other PC. I have pics off all sorts of crap, i'll dig them up and post em. My kits are external and universal ( www.externalpccooling.net ) HOWEVER, the metal shop that made my cases for 1 1/2 years closed up, and im stuck like chuck, and to be honest, shipping these units was a damn NIGHTMARE! I'm quite certain I can get my guys at shoppts.com to give you my discount (I'll call them, if you want to order stuff) But this is where I bought 90% of everything thru, and there service is 100000% perfect. I can spec up everything you would want, and email it to you (Or just post it here) and you can decide if you want it all or not, or I can make up a kit to do everything, you tell me what you want your goals to be (CPU, GPU, NB, etc..) and I'll spec up a top notch performing kit for ya.
**EDIT*** to answer your question about how hard it is, ARE YOU PATIENT???? If so, 3/10 is what I would rank it. Very easy stuff, just use common sense, you know what I mean bro.....
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could you post up the dimensions to them i need to know if they will fit in the spot i have. thanks!
Here are there specs..... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8531_Kinetik+HC+800.html
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If money is no object, you can run multi D5 pumps in parallel (I.E 2 of them in 1 loop) that will give you increased head pressure, and depending on how much tubing your using, this could also increase cooling ability. Makes for a BITCH to bleed the loop, but would be worth it in the end. The D5 pump is 300+GPH, and nearly 50PSI, so using 2 in 1 loop is balls to the wall. I've done some sick shit along my way of watercooling peoples' PC's, and also works the other way. I've seen some people hack the fuck out of there rigs and destroy 1000+$ worth of hardware. When done right, and you double check everything when all done, you will never have an issue. Every month or so, I like to check the water level, and every 3 months do a complete flush (Algee build up can harm cooling performance) and replace tubing with new tubing. The first time I told someone I was changing my coolant in my PC, and waited for there reaction, I was hooked to watercooling.
**EDIT** Steve, you dont need 1200watts of a PSU to run Quad SLi. Actually wattage is the least to be worried about, it's AMPERAGE that you need. When shopping for a PSU the most important factor is what is the amps on the +12v rail. There are 1200000000watt PSU's out there that only have 30a on the 12v rail. Then there are QUALITY PSU's out there that are 750watt that have 60a on the 12v rail. I ran Quad SLi on a PCP&C (PC power and cooling) This is the ONLY PSU TO BUY as far as im concerned, with 860watt, but had 70a 12v rail, with an OCed Quad, 8GB ram, 2 SSD HDD, etc.... ROCK STABLE and cool running (cool running = efficient) 12v rail specs are very important, and MAKE SURE THE PSU HAS 1 SINGLE 12V RAIL, NOT MULTI 12V RAILS. That was a marketing gimic back 2 years ago, where the designers thought that would be a better way of operating, BUT IT ISN'T. Think of it this way, if your PSU has 4 12v lines, but 2 of them are PCIe 6/8pin connectors that will only feed gpu's, but those 2 lines only feed a total of 30a, and your 2 cards need 45a together, what can you do? NOTHING....see what im saying. SINGLE 12v rail is the only way to go, and that is way PCP&C PSU's are top notch....
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Evga wouldn't RMA them cause they were "pre-bundled" with an OEM purchase, good try, but no luck. I've been in the "Gaming" PC world for 10+ Years, and im not trying to toot my own horn, but I really do know "to much" about PC's. Steve, being that your A.W PC came with SLi, and the age of it, im will to bet your motherboard is a 680i Nvidia chipset board, am I correct? If so, BE VERY VERY VERY CAREFUL with adding voltage to that north bridge. They run FUCKING HOT, damn near burning. There not the best to OC on, but very do-able of course. I would run your ram slightly above defualt speeds, and really no more, but the good thing about the 680i,780i,790i NB's is that you can clock the ram WITHOUT AFFECTING FSB SPEEDS!!! All though very picky, and you WILL encounter a FSB holes along the way, I can guide you through it all. With those GTX285's you can't increase VGPU due to the fact those cards dont have a software programmable voltage regulator, like the GTX260's, and the GTX295 cards do. Not a big deal though, those 55nm GPU's can scale just fine with out adding Vgpu to the core. You could more then likely achieve 730+MHz core speeds and for sure 2700+Mem speeds. I think those cards use H3C mem chips with are rated for 2800MHz mem (If I remember right) Just keep in mind, watercooling or not, your limit to overclocking has many variables, but the most important one is ambient room temp. If you keep the room the PC is in @ 75f, that will only get you so far, being that everything has a thermal limit in the electrical circuit, im sure you know all this already, but just wanted to throw that out there. People on other forums that im a member of, that are "just getting into OCing" think that since 1 guy got an OC of 4GHz on a certain CPU, means that every CPU can achieve that...... That is not the case. OCing is just a means of getting lucky. I have a golden sample Q6700 sitting here that will do 3.74GHz @ 1.39Vcore, and another Q6700 that takes 1.42Vcore to get the same speed. I know your a damn smart person, no doubt about that, however OCing takes a lot of time. After you boot into your OS with the new speed, you still have many hours of testing with certain programs to MAKE SURE THAT UNDER 100% duty loads for hours on end that the PC will be stable. Evga is the BEST HANDS DOWN company to deal with. They dont make the graphics card, but they back it up, you know what I mean. MAKE SURE YOU REGISTER THEM FIRST!!! Very important! Then once your signed into there website, you want to download there "Precision" software program, and furmark benchmark(google that name) and OC the GPU in 5MHz increments, and test it with furmark, and watch those GPU temps skyrocket! If you call me tonight, i'll explain all this in detail, and more then likely in a way that may make more sense.
Watercooling has a HUGE plus, as it will typically stay any where from 10-20c less temp @ load, compared to air cooling. Watercooling works the best when the RADIATOR is one top of the case, and an AC vent can blow cold AC air over the rad. This will in some cases cool 1-2c BELOW ambient temp, and leave a condensation drop or 2, but NOTHING to ever worry about. Say for example: Your QX6700 @ 3.7GHz with a Vcore of 1.45 (Average) and a 100% load temp of 50c ON WATER, and a 73-75f ambient room temp. That same OC on AIR (If possible) might be in the 75-78c range. Water is the best solution for cooling todays modern CPU's hands down, and doesnt cost much at all, compaired to a highend air cooler. A high end air cooler might be 75-100$. A medium based water kit might run 100-150, where TOP END water cooling is 300$+.....
Here is a top end water setup:
1 D5 DD vario Pump
1/2 I.D tubing
Micro-RES, or just use a T-Line
Thermochill PA120.3 rad (Best but hard to find)
3 x120mm Y.L 88cfm fans
D-Tek Fusion v2 CPU Waterblock
This is just for the CPU loop
etc.... That is nearly $300 right there
You can run multi loops in your case, but be aware that space gets limited. I run 2 loops cause my rule is always seperate GPU from CPU. Those 2 items in 1 loop, gets tuff to cool with quiet fans. You are more effecient with 2 loops. Damn I can go one forever......
For RAD info, a good rad WILL ALWAYS BE DUAL ROW, DUAL PASS!!! That is very important. That typically gives you 550-600watts of heat dissipation headroom. Here is a pic of a badass rad that I would run if a PA120.3 cant be found.
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oh and im so out of touch since i been spoiled with my AW computer - i havent paid much attention to the newest chips.....will this badass i7 ive been hearing about drop right into the socket i have now? Mine is currently a quad core 2.66 6700 (or 6800 i forget).....O/C to 3.4 of course
if it will drop right in, ill do it this weekend
If you have a 2.66GHz quad, then your CPU is a Q6700, or even better a QX6700 (If it has an unlocked multi, which would be PERFECT FOR OCing) The good thing about the Q6700/QX6700 is that you are 100% guaranteed to get the "G0" stepping. That is a huge benefit as it takes LESS VOLTAGE to scale higher in MHz speed. For example, a Q6600 (B3) stepping took me 1.59vcore to achieve a 3.6GHz OC, and at that voltage, the CPU was topped out, (Unless you throw DICE, or phase change cooling on it) 1.6v over 4 cores with a H20 setup, my temps were 60c across all cores 100% loaded. Take a Q6600/Q6700 (G0) stepped CPU, I can go to 3.74GHz using only 1.42Vcore, temps are 50c x4 on AIR!!! (if on water, 38-43c temps are likely) 24/7 stable. Throw in your GTX295 quad setup, 4/8GB ram, 4 CPU's @ 3.74GHz (on air, no even water) you have a badass PC that can game crysis (Which for us in the PC gaming arena is really isn't a game, but a benchmark as the game is coded so fu*king shitty, and doesnt scale as it should) Steve, I can go on forever about this stuff, and to answer your above question.......The new CORE i7 CPU's are NOT compatable with your setup. It would require a new motherboard/ram/PSU/CPU upgrade. The new i7 chipsets (X58) are DDR3 only, and LOW VOLTAGE ram ONLY! They use a SKT 1366. Figure about $1000bones and some transferring of parts from your current PC, to have a current i7 rig. DONT EVER BUY A PRE BUILT PC AGAIN!!!! COMPLETE WASTE OF MONEY! IF YOU WANT THE BEST OF THE BEST PC BUILT, I CAN DO THAT NO CHARGE! I will tweak it, oc it, install your OS of choice, etc..... Just pay for shipping. When you call tonight, we can go over all this if you like. Thanks again
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EMAIL SENT...... Thanks
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Meade........ Those 285's are great cards and overclock EXTREMELY WELL. On my GTX285 SLi setup I got 780c/1650s/2750mem speeds on stock vcore, on watercooling. I also my gaming PC at the time had quad SLi GTX295 (These you can change the Vcore on the GPU) I got 745c/1630s/2400mem ON ALL 4 GPU's. This is where the performance is at! If you game using a higher res (I.E 1920x1200, or larger) the 4 gpu's will kick in like your bass bro. Im a huge PC "nerd" and even make and patented an external watercooling setup. I used to Overclock on a comp level, and you would be surprised how interesting some of US people are. Most of us are down to earth people, doing crazy shit. You should try OCing using liquid nitrogen, dry ice, phase change type of cooling, that shit is a blast. Your talking about CPU temps as low as -100c !!!!! You can take a new CORE i7 XE965 to 5+ GHz across 8cores. That is just crazy fun. Anywho, those 285 cards are fantastic, make sure you REGISTER THEM ON EVGA's WEBSITE, to maintain your warranty. If you ever want to watercool them, let me know, I can get you excellent prices on watercooling stuff.
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I have 2 HC800's for sale. They are about 7 months old, excellent condition, perform very well. Only reason for me selling them, is because im going to be upgrading to an additional 2 more 18 BL's, and another MD3D amp, so I must get larger batts. Looking for 100 shipped each, or 190 for both shipped. Thanks for looking. **EDIT*** I have HEAT feedback @ www.heatware.com My heat name is " newls1 " (without the quotes)
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none of them... american bass if my arm was twisted, but none of them
how about 2 12 Re Audio Re12d4s ($100 for 2)
http://www.caraudiodeals.com/audio-r...er-p-1596.html
and maybe a $100-150 amp... new... buying used isnt wise on craigslist when it comes to subs
get a 1 channel amp... that is 1 ohm stable.. maybe hifonics bxi610d
Absolutely agree with decaf......... Dont buy this used crap on craigslist. You never know what your going to get.
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what is the birch sheets called @ home depot? I could have sworn that it is called something different then "birch" ?? Anyone know
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birch x 1,000,000
holds screws better
is alot stiffer
cuts smoother
looks better (imo)
You know what bro....... That girl in your avitar is fucking HOT! And thanks for the reply, birch is what im going with.
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My next box build is going to be for 4 18"s BL's (or DC) but either way, im finally happy to be able to make another box! Money aside, which is the BEST wood to use; Birch or MDF? (3/4" will be the thickness) Thanks
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mazdaSPL, thank you for getting back to me!
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yup it sucks. to work here you have to get certified here bottom line..come down here and get your EMT-P you will be valuable in hospitals as well as pre hospital. it opens you up to alot of opporitunities
EMT-I was to just get my feet in the door with working in the pre-hospital setting. I have a dear family friend that will be starting his own person ambulance company, and will be wanting me to work for him, as this was the plan in the begining, and is why I did the EMT path to start with. The "company" will pay for my EMT-P $2800 class, and as far as clinicals go, He is the ER surgical doc at our LVLII trama center, So I can work with him side by side, and get credited hrs for all of it. I think I though most of this thru before hand. The only down side to all of this is this: I want to get my "REAL" experience working for a none family member/friend type service, so if I make mistakes, I can learn there, and once I feel very confident, move over with our new comapny. Makes sense right? And when I say "make mistakes" dont think im talking about not knowing what im doing, but more or less getting my roots, and nervousness over with, so I can dive straight into a solid career.
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Dual Evga Gtx 285 - Sli
in Computer Talk - News, technology, advice
Posted
Steve, these are the SSD'd I was tell you about. The difference with the OCZ Vertex's, is that there currently the only SSD's that have a built in 64mb cache, WHICH COMPLETELY STOPS THE STUTTER EFFECT THAT REGULAR SSD's HAVE! The stutter effect is very annoying, and tests have shown, and people have proven that these SSD's are the best "Right now". http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820227394