newls1
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Posts posted by newls1
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no shit, never would have thought of summit/jegs.....Thanks, off now to go look/
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Needing to buy batteries (2 for rear, and 1 for up front) but really cant walk into a store where im at to buy any AGM style batt except for a yellow top, but for $200 (which is what my parts stores are selling that batt for) im sure I can find a better battery cheaper on the net. If I could, I would really like to have all the batts the same. Currently Under my hood, I have an exide orbital, and I have 2 HC800's in the rear. My orbital batt is 50A/H batt, and the HC800's are 36A/H batts. What battery's would you recommend me to go with 3 of, and be a substantually stronger batt, and take a 5K RMS setup (Future upgrades)? Also, being this is a tahoe (Or GM for that matter) I need a batt w/ side terminals for the front, and if going with all the exact same battery's isn't going to work out well, then just a dual terminal front batt, and anything for the rear. I've been looking into batts by DEKA, Exide, etc.... These tend to be cheaper then XS, Kenitic, Stinger, etc..... Any feedback or maybe at least a good E-Store that offers free shipping on batts would be great. I cant spend more then 145-150 per batt, hopfully cheaper. Thanks
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With the power of that amp @ 1ohm, I would have gone the BL route.
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Are you getting that same .8V drop at the front batt? And are you using fuses from the front batt to your bank in the rear?
Front batt is more near a .6v drop. YES, my 2 runs of 0ga is fused going to the rear.
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If both alternators have 1/0awg running from them to a common point on the battery then they are connected. Adding another piece of 1/0awg between the alternators will do nothing. You need to check everything seperately to make sure each piece of your install is working/connected properly.
Appreciate the reply. I have checked everything 40 times. I'm guess that my HC800 2 rear batts cant handle my stereo anymore, I guess I out grew them. Would using "wet" batts in the cab be OK? I mean in all honesty. I cant afford the XS bats or higher end kenitics now, but I can afford 2-3 "WET" group 31 batts @ autozone, that are much more powerful then my HC800's.
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I would stick with 0/1 cable personally.....
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I LOVE MMATS products. Before my 18" BL's I had P2.5's and P 3.0's. EXCELLENT SPEAKERS. Great SQ/SPL. I cant help you any further though, MMATS actually made my box for the 3 12" P3.0's when I was living in West Palm Beach (Where MMATS is) if you were using 12's, I would give you the box, just pay shipping, but your using 15"s.....
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well, you seem to be making good progress. Makes sure you talk to Rob @ DC Power, and tell him seth says hi!
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2600RMS watts is no joke on a stock electrical system. I see that you added a rear batt, but what else? BigIII done? What is the car/truck your working with? Keep in mind that a "typical" car/truck needs anywhere from ~90-100a JUST FOR THE ON BOARD ELECTRICAL, so add a voltage hungry amp, and say for example your vehicles stock alt is only 105A (typical) your leaving hardly anything in reserve for the amp, and you are STRESSING that 1 alt, and inturn making in run VERY HOT, and inefficient. Making sense? I just upgraded to a dual alt setup, and wow, my MD3D amp is loving it. Think about it..... G/L
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of course, did that a year ago.
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I currently have 0/1 power wire coming off each alt that goes directly to the front batt which in turn sends power to my back batts using my 2 runs of 0/1 cable to the rear. However my question is: Do I need to run a short 0/1 power wire to jumper from one alt to the other? Cause if I understand it correctly, the primary alt, will turn on the secondary alt, and im wondering if runing a short jumper will do this? The reason im asking cause even after my dual alt install im still getting .8v drop, even revving to ~2k RPM.
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No offense bro, but that almost looks like an abortion. If I understand this right, your mixing 2 different versions of JL's in a box that was made for 4, but you cut 2 more holes into it, to fit 2 more.....Holy Jesus....
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I've been in contact with Rob off and on today, GREAT GREAT GREAT guy. I have 50% of my dual alt setup installed today, and the only thing i'm waiting for are my 2" pulleys. Let me tell you this LOGANBERRY, and everyone else...His bracket to mount the alts IS SUPER SUPER SUPER THICK AND HEAVY! Quality is 10000%. Also it comes powdercoated to boot! I'll have pics if you'll want to see them tomorrow.
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also, a smaller pulley on the alt will increase idle output as-well. So keep that in mind.
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Saturday's race, and sundays race had hella crashes. It seems NASCAR drivers are getting more and more dangerous and greedy. Carl Edwards (My absolute favorite driver hands down) was playing the last 40 laps safe by laying low and staying back as his team even said, "Were waiting for the big accident to happen, and we dont want any part of it, so we as a team decided to stick it back and play it safe." Well, if it wasn't for the fucking rookie, Carl would have had 1st place. I hate to see a game end like that, but at least he ran over to the finish line to complete the race FTW!
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Make up your mind....
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My last post came out the wrong way, and for that I apologize. Rob got buried last week, and I just didnt want to call him to bother him just about a tracking #, see what I mean? He PMed me last night and all is excellent. He even shipped 3day air for me w00t!
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Rob says he has a
250 for 479$
290 amp for 509$
There, I got a hold of him for ya
Ya, well if you get a hold of him again, ask him what Seth's (ME) tracking number is, He has not responded to my PM in 2 days..... Could you do that for me?
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how old are those HC800's, and what is the resting voltage?
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rob is very much around...rob@dc power great guy great customer service
im pretty sure what he meant was that Rob doesn't respond much on the forums, which i'm finding is true, and can only assume that is due to him and Dave are busy, and just dont have the time......
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Rob @ DC Power has fantastic customer service.........so far in my experience. I ordered a dual alt kit from him nearly 2 weeks ago, still hasen't showed yet, but that was due to other means. Contact with him IS FU*KING EASY. If you call the shop, after 4 rings, the message machine gives you his personal cell #. DAMN! That is service.
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ya look into a HO alternator, a cap is useless as an asshole on your elbow, especially if you don't have enough juice to charge it. its basically just another battery/load on your charging system and won't do anything on a system that already doesn't have enough power.
"Caps" do have there place in car audio, but not really for anyone on this forum. I would say a cap could help in a little stereo setup that is maybe pushing 400-500w, as installing a cap could help with MINOR light dim, and a LITTLE extra assurance for the little amp pushing 4-500w. Know what i mean.
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thats our job!
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I would say loose the cap all together and get your self another batt.
Caps are really just fancy looking volt meters
um, Is that not what my post said?
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Which Web-store Offers Free Shipping On Batts?
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
Yup, nearly 12$ for shipping charge, but that is great considering a 60+LB battery. Im thinking about the blue top optima group 31 with 150reserve and nearly 90A/H ratings. For 175.00. Seems like a great batt to get 2 of.