newls1
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Posts posted by newls1
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love the finish on your box, what is it?
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Ok so I am just gonna go with a fully loaded Bl I think. It will be a couple weeks though. Thanks everyone for all the help.
good choice!
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Anyone ever deal with this ebay store, and for the most part, is it safe to buy a recond R.F amp?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGATE-T2000...1QQcmdZViewItem
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both drivers will be wired together for a 1ohm load.
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If I need to save up more for the R.F T20001db amp I will, however the AQ2200D is really half the price, so this is why im having such a hard time deciding. Whatever amp I choose will be powering 2 18" Fi BL's fully loaded. I can bet that the R.F is the "better" amp (not power wise, but overall quality too) but if a 389$ amp will slam just as good, I dont know? HELP!
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I was always told that an EFFECTIVE ground should always be as short as possible. I wouldn't ever run a ground back to the front again, that is just to long.
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Nope, they are what they are. You can't see anything just know that it is there. Each sub is built to the ticket that is made for it. There's a note in the bottom of the ups label Should be something like BL 18 D2 FL...other then that there is not any paper or anything or recipt that goes in the box. No real need for it..
appreciate the reply, I see the UPS label now, and it shows just what you said. Thanks
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I took delivery of my 2 BL 18 2 days ago, and no where do I see a sheet with them saying they indeed do the options that I chose. Hell, I didnt even get a reciept. I ordered my 2 drivers fully loaded, however NOT universal, and NO SPL option... Is there a way I can tell by looking at the sub?
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The honest side of me says call them, make them aware of the shipping error, have them send you a pre-paid label for shipping (this way no money out of your pocket, and UPS/FEDEX will come to the door to pick it up!) however, the other 97% of my mind, says keep the son-of-a-bitch! and rock on with it
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Your box for the BL 15 should be 2.8-4CuFT, tuned to 30-37Hz according to Fi's website.... Why is it though, that when ever someone asks a question like, "Should I get a BL, or a MMats dreadnught 15 for example, the replies always seem to say, "JUST GET A BTL" Why dont the BL's get any love? I have 2 18" BL's setting in there box next to me, and there beasts. I could have gotten the BTL's sure, but I couldn't afford to buy an amp to power them effectively.
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The big brown truck dropped off my 2 18's BL's this afternoon, and HOLY SHIT, these are the biggest drivers i've ever had. I really like how the tinsel leads are built into the spider assembly, and the foam surround IS HUGE AND THICK! I absolutely can not wait till I have the funds to buy my amp's, and more 1/0ga Cables to finish this up. I'm starting to have a collection of parts in my garage now waiting.....These 2 subs, 2 kinetic batts for rear, my HUGE ASS 16CuFT ported box that I made, 25ft spool of 1/0ga wire (getting another spool shortly) and to top all this off, I got laid off my job today
....................So now this project that should have been finished by the end of next week, is now on the back burner....fu*k! -
In a car that size, wouldn't you want to "WALL" more then 2 subs? I mean, if done right, should knock real good, but why take all that space for 2 15's? Not trying to knock your idea, but just wondering.....
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BIGIII will be done during the 4th of july weekend. Gives me something to do, as I cant stand spending time with the family and kids............
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fuck no never with that cap shit
Ok, so I take it that a CAP would do me NO good then?
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should I still use a CAP or are 2 of these batts plenty?
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no sir, just a GM upgraded 130amp alt factory installed on the Hoe. Hell, and for the record, I haven't even done the "BIGIII" yet.....
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Well, I ordered 2 of these. Got them for 109 each, I thought that was a great price, and I dont have to pay for them for 90 days interest free. These 2 batts should only help me I would think? So I dont think I went wrong with this purchase. Now here is my last question; Is it harder on the ALT the maintain the charge for 3 batts, or might it be easier on the ALT now with 3 batts, as it wont have to maintain the 1 batt that gets beatin on consistently. Also, my loaded Voltage while slamming my current stereo is 14.1v, will this voltage drop some as the alt will have 3 batts to maintain, or stay the same? I idle without stereo slammin @ 14.4-14.6 if it matters. Thanks everyone, I can't wait to have my new stereo up and running.
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Will the 2 of these help, or wont do anything for me? I can get 2 of these for 280shipped to my door in 3 days
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Looking for 2 batts for the ass end of my tahoe, and came across these (Kinetik HC800 High Current) I can get them for 118each, is this a good price, and will these help if I keep my stock alt which is 140amp. I just dont have the funds for a new alt now, and was basically hoping that these 2 batts would help? I'll be powering a AQ2200D amp, and my 2 18" Fi BL's. I have a yellow top under the hood, and I'll run 2 leads of 0/1gauge friom the alt, to the new batts if it helps at all. Thanks
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Here is the prices Don gave me.
220 $359
240 $379
260 $399
280 $419
300 $439
Dual alternator bracket kit $199
Triple alternator bracket kit $299
Quad alternator bracket kit $399
If you want to run 2 alts, you could use 1 alt just to power the vehicle, than use the second alt to power however many batteries you want in the back for the system. It wont hurt the alt at all, its no diffrent from connecting the system up to your main battery. Its would be less strain on the alts if you ran one just to the system because it doesnt have to fight trying to power all the accessories and shit thats in the vehicle.
Also it doesnt matter if you run 1 alt or 10 alts, they have a built in regulator to control the power going to the batteries.
excellent, thanks bud.
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Thanks guys for the replies.
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13.25x17 = how many square inches? Appreciate your input please, and thanks
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If you have a second battery then it will be possible to run the 300 alt to that battery(i believe) and run just the audio off it
Yes, I will have 1 or 2 batts in the rear, so what im talking about IS POSSIBLE? Would it be better this way, or NO? Cause my other thought is this: If I use both alts, that is a combined amperage of 430Amps, so maybe this is the better way to go. I just have no idea how to wire this bitch in.
....................So now this project that should have been finished by the end of next week, is now on the back burner....fu*k!
Using "thru Bolts" For Speaker Connections In Box....
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
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About to install the subs, and before I do, I would like to make the connections like most of you do and use pass thru bolts. I just went and bought 8 brass 1/4thread x 1 1/2 long bolts and was hoping someone can clue me in on the wiring of it. Do I do a bolt for each V.C, meaning that do I just run a wire from one terminal to a bolt, so each sub will utilize 4 bolts? And just make my connections using eyelets on the outside of the case? If I do it this way, this will use all 8 bolts (thats why I bought
or do I just wire the subs inside the box, then just use 2 bolts for the external connections? Thanks Any pics I can see of someones install