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The Performer

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Posts posted by The Performer

  1. that probably sounded confusing...i mean would u run RCA from the deck to the master amps input. Then run RCA from the master amps output to the slaves amp input or output?

    Yes, you're on the right track.

    RCA's go from H/U to master amp input, then another set of RCA's go from master amp output, to slave amp input.

    EDIT: Also don't forget to make sure your master is set to "master" and your slave is set to "slave".

    You don't want your slave thinking it's the master.

  2. i dont have components just 2way infinity 6.5". powered by headunit (alpine cda-9830) and i just put in an order for a set of rears the infinity kappa 4x6. but what should be my best bet for getting a better sound out of my subs, ie less muddy, should i find a shop or someone online that would design me a box?

    Be careful putting 2 sets of infinity speakers on your headunit. Almost all infinity's are 2 ohm speakers. They put alot of draw on your headunit and in many cases people complain about them overheating the headunit, and it going into protection mode.

  3. Stick up some pics of your design and I'll give you some ideas.

    Just in general if it was me I would put T-nut's in the mdf, then have the plexi, then a trim ring over the plexi.

    Machine screws (recessed in the trim ring) (hex head's would look good) trim ring on top of the plexi, then a weatherstrip seal all the way around the plexi between the glass and mdf to give it a good seal.

    If you're not going to be able to do the trim ring then atleast machine screws in the plexi with wide washers. If I were to go that route I would paint a strip around the edge of the inside of the plexi to hide the weatherstrip underneath. It will look goofy if you see the weather strip.

  4. I've been listening to these guys for a few years now and they're main thing is their songs are more or less funny, but the music is DAMN good, IMO just an all around talented band.

    Check their myspace they've got a new CD coming out in may, which by what I've heard by the first 3 songs (well 2 songs and a sandwich) I'm going to be buying this one. :)

    http://www.myspace.com/psychostick

    Give 'em a chance and listen to all the songs and I guarantee you you'll have atleast one of the songs stuck in your head that you'll be jamming to all week. :)

    Then here's some of their stuff from their last CD's.

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    Good stuff.

  5. That's an easy fix, but like he said, I'd contact them first and get them to fix it or replace it. If you spend all that money on a product then I'll be goddamned if I'm going to get a halfassed piece of equipment.

    Kinda strange to get that from an RF amp. I'd expect that on a kicker amp, but not a RF.

  6. 15in-Venom-SPL.gif

    Here's the best chart I could find on the subject. This is the SPL chart.

    Nevermind the grey line, It was something else the guy was doing.

    But the Red is your sealed, and green your ported. Notice the sealed response is a lot smoother, while the ported has a drastic slope where it's peaking up to it's tuned fq.

    Here's a cone excursion chart.

    15in-Venom-excursion.gif

    Notice with the ported the sub is doing most of all it's work at it's tuned range, and after that it drops bigtime, and with the sealed, the sub is again moving at a more smoother slope.

    When a person is deciding on what they want in their car it all comes down to how much room do you have to work with in an enclosure (because if you don't have the room, you don't go ported obviously. That's another advantage of sealed is you can get the correct response with smaller volume/to get the correct response with a ported, the sub will almost always specify for a larger volume) and the other factor is what will you be listening to, and at what volume. So again, it goes back to the age old question which is better ported or sealed, and you'll have so many people who don't do their homework say "oh sealed is louder" Or, "no ported is louder"

    Now whenever you have someone tell you that ask them "why?" see if they don't respond with an answer based on "well my best friend's homeboy has the loudest ride you'll ever hear and he's running (sealed/ported) and he say's it's best and he knows his stuff"

    If you do your homework, you'll be able to tell them to STFU and go back to smoking crack. :dry:

  7. Do what you really want to do, but the fact of the matter is most daily drivers are tuned at around 32hz because that's a good clean low response, and your main midrange bass will be determined by your components.

    Your friend might be right, you probably are missing alot of peak at your higher notes, however if his background to that statement is based on him doing competitions, then of course he's going to be looking for that high 40hz peak.

    If it was me I'd go with a low 32hz, but since it's not then you do what you want, you gotta ask yourself what do you want to enjoy from your music when you're driving around.

  8. why sealed for daily use?

    Some people would rather have a sealed design. I do, because it gives me a lot more range of what I can get good bass results with whatever music I'm playing.

    With a ported you're going to have a lower range at which your bass is going to perform at a peak, however it will be a pretty drastic rolloff after that peak.

    With a sealed you have a more wider range of where the bass will perform good. It won't peak as much as a ported at a given frequency range, but will still be a good overall response.

    That being said it comes down to the music style. Rap and such is typically a lower fq of bass, and metal and rock has a higher fq of bass. Use the rules of how each type of enclosure works and one can decide which enclosure will do best for their situation.

  9. Polyfil works excellent in sealed boxes, I know from experience I've got quite a bit in my enclosure at the moment. Whenever I build truck boxes or other enclosures where the situation demands a smaller box, I always allocate the need for polyfil in the design.

    The trick is, if the volume is a little on the tight side, you can add it to compensate a tad bit for the small size. Not much, but in alot of cases where you've planned it from the beginning, you can get just enough.

    With ported boxes, I know the principle, but have only had one go with it. The rule there is to buy the polyfil sheets and attach them to the inside walls of the enclosure. I would recommend just the staples from a standard stapler gun to attach it all around. With glues you're just risking getting those toxic fumes built up inside with your sub which is a no-no.

    In my experience on ported though it was with two truck boxes I had in my 4x4 a while back. I did the same technique like I said and I can say I did notice a better result. It mimicked the more deeper boom that would have been achieved with a little larger box, which in the end is what adding polyfil is all about.

    I think the reason you don't really see polyfil used alot in ported enclosures is because most of these guys are just building their boxes to spec. from the get go, therefore they have no need to trick the sub into thinking the box is bigger, as it's already the perfect size.

  10. Got some new pics. I backed into a pole at my school a few weeks ago and screwed up the aluminum case that it's in.

    So figured it was time to pull out the welder. :) For this small a project didn't need to use the mig.

    0304091316.jpg

    0304091505.jpg

    0304091600.jpg

    0304092245.jpg

    0305092100.jpg

    Added a resistor to the main run like I did with my LED DRL's to keep the voltage correct.

    0305092315.jpg

    Then a new coil wire to suck up the excess of wire back into the case after it's plugged in.

    This new one is strong as hell. I can use it as a step if I need. :)

    I'll try and get some night pics here in a little while.

  11. Pics would help bro.

    Now if I'm correct, you want to put the LED's in the box shined into the port?

    Also, You'd probably get a better glow effect if you were to find LED's that are closer to 360 degree shine. They wont be clear, but will be the opaque kind.

    Or, what I've done MANY of times is just use a fine steel wool, and spin the LED in the steel wool to rough up the surface and break up the light better.

  12. Why not just run a mono block amp??that should fit your needs.

    X2

    Mono block amps are best for sub applications that don't need to be ran in stereo.

    Just shop around for any mono blocks that will be 2ohm stable at the rms wattage you're going to need. Most likely with the higher end amp's you'll be able to find them down to 1ohm stable even.

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