Jump to content

The Performer

18+ All Access!
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by The Performer

  1. I've got the same pillars. I just did tweets in mine, I'd be weary on trying to wrap them unless you were doing slight protrusions to work with. Here's how the turned out. I just texture and color http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/26547-03-silverado-singlecab-4x4-first-fiberglass-enclosure/page__view__findpost__p__1263037 If I had to do it again it would be in the $300 range for labor. Hardest part would be not having the speakers there to test fit and build from with depth and angles.
  2. If it looks like a product has flea markets on it's list of dealers then it's probably shitz. I can't even count how many people come in with the single DIN H/U's with the clip on double din screens. (Yeah dude, that's badass how the screen covers the A/C controls)
  3. Yes and no. Adding a remote start yes they are somewhat less expensive because they don't always need an immobilizer bypass. However when it comes to everything else, More then less they are more prone to need extra relays. Especially when it comes to the door locks, alot of vehicles are 5wi door locks in which case we use a DEI 451m relay module, or two 5 pin relays. In your case you need 2 four pin relays at the least for keyless entry just to convert the lock/unlock polarities.
  4. Take it to a pro. Alot of times you're going to run into locking problems with older vehicles. In that car specifically it's a positive trigger for lock and unlock, Meaning it's probably heavy current and you will need to convert polarity as well as use a good fused source wire as supply for the relays. The most true tested connections for any alarm/keyless entry/remote start is always soldering when tapping your wires. If you aren't able to do perfect soldered joints each and every time.
  5. Wrong topic bro. To the OP, Are you asking for a pin-out of what the alarm's wires are? Or a wiring chart for the vehicle? Directed's models, most wires stayed the same throughout models. Red/white - Trunk (-) Red - 12v Brown - siren Black - ground Green - door (-) White - parking light (-/+) Green - unlock (-) Blue - Lock (-) As for the remote start inputs and outputs for that model I can't say for certain. Best thing you can do is go to a shop where they install directed and ask if they could print out a install chart for that alarm
  6. Depends what you're trying to do. It's the same question as ported or sealed.
  7. 5701 is no walk in the park. http://www.alarmsellout.com/support/diagrams/vehicle/HONDA%20ACCORD%201985-2005.pdf If you don't decide to do it, get it done. You could support your local best buy, or any local installers.
  8. If autozone is the dealer that carries your alarm then there lies your problem.
  9. 5901 is a good unit. Everything you need all in one package. Best feature would be that the remote is rechargeable, and it's 1 mile range. We install it for $499 (That's unit and install labor) Not including bypass module (if needed)
  10. If you've never done a remote start install before then you might want to consider having it done professionally. The 5701 is not a simple install as the aspect of it's many features. There's no one going to stop you from doing the install yourself if you are that determined, but I would strongly suggest against it if you don't know the proper techniques for making connections for a remote start system. If you understand what type's of polarities your system will need as well as it looks like you will need a bypass module for your ignition. What this does is act as if the key is in the key cylinder whenever you remote start. Like I said, it's definitely NOT a novice install.
  11. Learn to fiberglass then. Just saying man, I've seen problems. Not to mention as it stands, not many touch screens have been up to standards with the higher audio processing units.
  12. So scratch the idea of watching dvd's and go for sound quality. Alpine CDA-9887. Really, I've seen so many flip outs jam up over time and become slow and don't have what it takes to push it self out. That's all brands, not just the cheap ones.
  13. Get a stationary touch screen. Flipouts are constantly breaking.
  14. Dear god people. Put it this way, you're wiring should not give any factor as to what fuse you need. AT ALL. If your wire can only handle 300 amps, then you do not put a 300 amp fuse on it. You don't fuse to protect your power wire AT ALL. You fuse to limit how much current your circuit over all can pull. The load being the amplifier, protect the load by fuse, let the wire be just beefy enough to supply the load. First thing's first, your wire has to be able to upkeep with the draw from the amp. If your amp is pulling a certain amount of current, then your wire should be able to supply that amount of current with least possible voltage loss. That means if your amplifier is pulling 100 amps of current through an 8 gauge wire, from a battery that is 25 feet wire distance away, you will have a voltage loss of 1.6v. The wire resistance will be .016 Ohms. You're shooting for better than that. Lets say now you use a 2 gauge wire. Same 25ft distance of wire, same 100amp draw. Now you have a voltage loss of .3v. That's alot better. With 0 gauge, .25v loss. That's just the aspect of using the right wire to feed your amplifiers. When it comes to picking what fuse to add at the battery, it's simple. How much is the amp fused at? Say it has 100 amps of draw. Most likely it has two 50 amp fuses on it. Well best thing is to put a 100 amp fuse at the battery, you don't want over current getting to your amp. If your circuit starts consuming more than what the amplifier can handle, you want the circuit to fail as close to the battery as possible. If your fuse at the battery is the equivalent as the fuse on the amp, then you will be safe, as the one closest to the battery will blow before the amp fuses will. So what we've just learned is, you might have the correct fuse at your battery, however do you have enough gauge wire to supply your amplifiers? I cant tell you how many times I've ran across an install where the person has a 1000watt amplifier connected to a 10 gauge power wire. People, it's too much resistance. The wire gets hot, the wire either melts the insulation and grounds out, or even burns the wire in half as it were a fuse itself then you have a wire connected directly to your battery floating around just waiting to ground out.
  15. Wrong, and right. Yes, the higher the wattage, the brighter. However, kelvin does also contribute to how much usable light is made. The brightest kelvin is usually the closest to white you can get. Once you start adding in color you sacrifice brightness for color.
  16. Read, read, read, as many threads on it as you can if it's your first time. Even if it's not your first time, you learn SOOOO many new tricks and tips just by seeing how others do it. Check out my build (click on the signature picture) and you will see that was my first time as well. If you take your time, avoid being sloppy and plan everything out, you can get amazing results. Check out Fiberglassforums.com Join and take in all the knowledge.
  17. Only tip, don't do it. Bondo to plastic is sketchy, and if it's a big gap or high fill, it's just destined to fail. Also we're assuming you're actually talking about bondo brand body filler? There's better products for what you want to do, take a look at the threads by epicenterdesigns on here and fiberglass forums.
  18. That just reminded me, my signature fits the situation perfectly. Check it.
  19. To the OP, I say just keep your settings all how they are, and when your shit toasts itself, just go ahead and blame it on shitty products and not yourself. After all, you KNOW you had your stuff setup correct. Seriously dude, you came on here asking help with a problem that has a pretty specific cause, and when people are telling what the cause most likely is of course they are going to poke a little fun. If you had done your research to the point where you yourself could diagnose the problem, you could have described your situation a little better, and might have avoiding having someone else jump to conclusions that you don't know what you're doing. If you're gonna be a dick about it then go ahead and blow your subs, and buy yourself some more to blow. If you LEGITIMATELY want some help then you came to the right place, you're just taking advice the wrong way. First thing, pull the subs and check the tinsels and coils, look for any signs of over heating/burning. Second, turn your gains, bass boost, and other enhancements all the way down. Set your crossover, you want your subs to play your low frequency, your mids to play midrange frequencies, and your highs to play high range frequencies. In other words, you dont want your subs playing notes 120hz, you will leave that up to your mid ranges, and vice versa, you dont want your mids playing 30hz notes. It will damage them. Now go ahead and turn your headunit up to the maximum volume without it sounding distorted. Go to your amps, and start turning the gains up to where your subs are playing at maximum volume before they begin clipping. (clipping will sound distorted generally)If you have access to an O-scope, learn how to use it, and take advantage of that. It will show you visually when and where you have a note clipping. Now you're done with the amp, you shouldnt need bass boost or any other enhancements. When you start learning how subsonic filters, and intelli-q adjustments work, and how they will affect your music listening, THEN you can start adjusting and fine tuning your response to your liking. As many others have said, if you have obvious signs of damage to the subs, get them repaired asap. You can have a damaged sub, then set your amp to play it, however it will overtime fall victim to it's previous damage.
  • Create New...