The Performer
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Posts posted by The Performer
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Haha, had my brother inlaw email this to me. Thought I'd share.
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A personal favorite.
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IDK........name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="
I found it and thought it was bad-ass.
<<<< 2:17
type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">I have to admit, your avatar is freaking hilarious man...
On topic though, I've had to fix at least 3 kicker amps before and whenever you work on them you just can tell whether or not you're impressed with the way they are built. In two of the amps the leads that connected the rca jacks to the board were simply undone due to a poor FACTORY solder joint. Something you rarely see, yet I saw it on more than one occasion. That was reason enough to me that I wouldn't want to spend alot of money on a kicker amp. The third case was that the legs of the gain potentiometer was broken at the base of the knob. Just those few aspects did NOT impress me with the kicker amps.
Now in all fairness, I've installed kicker amps and have been impressed with them as in they just work. Pretty simple and straight forward, they work for what they do. On sound quality wise, I was not impressed, when it came to adjusting the gains it seemed like the voltage would jump all over the place upon turning the gain knob as if it was a crappy knob (most likely was).
Just not my cup o tea.
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It seems like every RF subwoofers I've seen have a cracked cone as well. You go to the stores, they're cracked/ see someones setup, they're cracked/ Help someone fix their setup, they're cracked.
I think that's probably the most infamous part of RF subs is they ALL seem to crack their cones.
How much volume will you be needing for this setup? 16 is a hella lotta woofers man. :hairtrick:
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Can I add one of my vids?!
2 10" level 2's, orion d1200w amp and alpine cda9887 headunit.
Maybe I can get a vid of the subs sometime tomorrow.
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I would try and go with the texture matching with the paint if you could, it would be easier and would look better as a whole piece rather than having your vinyl seamed.
The newspaper wrinkles sounds like an excellent idea! Use a thick filler primer and try that, then come in with your color on top.
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The hell with an electrician I'd be calling a priest, your place is possessed.
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Just cover everything you don't want the glass to stick to in foil. (The more shiny side up) Then you can use a release agent, (wax) on the foil as well.
Then just lay a wet batch of resin, be quick and stipple the mat into that resin, then start building up layers as usual.
Only thing I wouldn't recommend is using the spray glue to get the first layer. It's always easier when building enclosures to start off by gluing the mat to the surface then coming in with resin, however on a project where you will be releasing the glass from the object you don't want to go that route. Just brush an even layer of resin and add the glass to it right away, and use the brush to stipple the glass down into the resin, and it will soak into the glass making a very good first layer.
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On the left side of the reply box it will have "insert: youtube"
Open that, then paste in the (embeded) code from youtube in that box.
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Just a few I've been impressed with.
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Hah, that's the step up version of my guitar.
Dude's pretty good, but I've seen some other guys with alot more talent.
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Money For Nothing FTW!
Exactly what I was thinking!
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Something about 600W rms. On alpine's site, for those subs it says RMS 300, peak 900.
I'd just go with 600 so you have 300 going to both just to be safe. Or I guess it depends on if you're going to be bridging them or not.
BTW on the site it says those are DVC? You mean to say they are dual 4ohm?
Maybe be more specific as to what ohm you will be wiring them as well, that tells alot as to which amp is going to be best.
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I used I believe 8-32 machine screws and T-nuts.
In your case just go with machine screws and regular nuts, I'm assuming you'll probably be able to reach your arm in and connect the wire.
Not as hard as you're thinking.
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DC Audio lvl 2 or 3 is also a nice way to go.
X2, I've got a pair of lvl 2 10"s and they are DEF. loud enough.
Couple of questions you were asking, no I would not try and bend out those ridges, more work and you wont be as satisfied as you're thinking in the end.
The JL picture, those are the new thin line JL's. Pretty damn nice, but not cheap for what they are. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=30
The blowthrough would give you the loudest results I'd imagine, but it's gonna be a HELLA lotta work, consider that as well.
Step one, take some of your money out of the bank and get a GOOD alarm installed just as the others have said.
Now if it was me, I'd do a fiberglass console with two 10"s or 12"s downfiring. Just put in some bucket seats and work from there. I'd bet you can work the shifter into the console quite nicely!
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Adobe Audition does pretty good.
Back when I was recording alot of my own songs with my guitar I was using sony acid, it did quite a good job, pretty damn powerful program to do any kind of track editing.
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Nope ...but i have wired them to a few brake pedals .....everytime you hit the brake the horn blows ......pretty damn funny
Haha, that's pretty damn good, how did you pull that off?
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Just to make sure ur not confused, that is NOT my mini. Its my buddies that i do all the work to lol. heres a little clip of the mini just cause i think it sounds 10x better now
Oh man, my bad, guess I didn't catch that in the description.
The go-kart on steroids analogy did make it seem kickass though! I always feel like I'm driving a go kart when I have to take my moms little honda accord to get filled up. VROOM VROOM!
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Man your truck came out great!
Not sure about the matchbox, I'm a full size 4x4 kinda guy myself.
You keep 'em clean though!
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I would stay away from the T-nuts they sell in home depot and lowes. I've used them before on a set of 12's and had the threads strip out of both the T-nuts and the bolts (both bought from home depot)
The trick is to find a bolt specialty shop in your town to get them from. Here we have Ace bolt and screw, that's where I go to get my T-nuts and bolts. They are MUCH better made, and a fraction of the cost. I got about 50 of each for under 10 bucks. At home depot to get enough for two subs you spend about $15 for crap.
T-nuts are great, you just gotta get the good ones. Another trick is if you don't set the nuts into the baffle before hand with the bolts, take a C clamp and set the T-nuts with that. When you just use the screw to tighten it in you take the chance of not having it suck up into the baffle tight enough and over time it can let slack in the bolt for it to come loose.
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where can i get a bass knob?
Search around, there was a really good thread that had some generic ones and amp specific.
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Sweet, we're making a pretty good thread on all the info on epicenters, thanks tons guys!
Maybe we could get this to be a sticky for anyone else looking into them. I remember when I was searching for it a while back I couldn't find barely ANY good threads on the subject, but this one is turning out to be damn good and insightful.
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If you search some ROE videos steelcitysounds has a couple of videos where he shows the difference when using and not using one with like MJ music and shit
Sweet! Good deal on that, it took me about an hour to find anything on ROE, I guess their servers are going SLOW today...
Is it ok if I link to that video here? Maybe there's some other guys looking for the same info I was, hopefully this video will help them out as well.
FTW!!!
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Looking Ass N*gga
in Off Topic Vids
Posted
Yep, has a VERY nice low in it. Take the time to hunt down the high quality version of the track and play it through your system and you'll be surprised. I've got it on a cd in my truck and it's a DAMN good bass track.