The Performer
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Posts posted by The Performer
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There's no difference. The ground terminal on the cap is just a lump of metal, it's not doing anything special. Essentially you drew exactly the same thing twice up there
That's what I was trying to explain to the guy at the shop! Maybe he's just a dumbass... (That shop does smell like pot though occasionally...) :01nocomment8so:
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Eh, I'm not so big on neon outside of the ride myself...
Logan if you do it be sure and post some pics. I got a 20" green neon tube for free from a buddy that I have NO IDEA what the hell I'm gonna do with so if I get some good ideas from your pics I might use it.
It's got the sound activation thing so I'm thinking of just setting it under the seat when I get my box finished and installed just for shits and giggles.
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Damn, wish I had a system like that in my first vehicle... Actually, I didn't even get a vehicle until after a year after I got my license.
Looks good man but might want to mention to that girl to be careful with that. She's 16 so going to high school still, high school parking lots are a nice stereo's worst enemy.
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the cap would have the same output either way
So there's really no difference in the ways they are wired? Maybe the guy just didn't understand me when I was telling him how I had it wired...
Either way, I'm just going to be going with the top way again since it makes the most sense to me and works great.
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have you tried an extra deep cycle battery though? they cost about the same.
No I haven't ever done any changes to the battery. It is a brand new batt. though so no need for getting rid of it I would assume just yet.
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get rid of the cap all together
I know, I know, everyone says caps are no good compared to an extra batt. and alt., but for as many watts as I'm pulling it has always helped.
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ive always wired them in series with the battery (i think series is the right word?)
hot to hot and ground to ground.
and not had the cap inline with the power wire to the amp.
uh... could you maybe draw that out?
And I believe that would be parallel... I'm not sure, I'd have to see what you're talking about.
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Hey guys, I got a question maybe some of you guys will know better than me. I've always had my cap connected in with the stereo like this:
But I was at a audio shop chit chatting and the guy told me I should have it wired like this.
I've never had any problems with the top configuration, but I have seen many diagrams of the second way. In my mind I can't see any kind of difference in either way besides the second one needing more wire in my case.
So my question is, is there any difference in either way, or what. For my configuration I've always liked how easy it is to make the first way look good, but either way, just curious. To me, it looks like they should have no difference except one wastes more ground wire.
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Hell, with those windows right there they seem flat enough you could probably go with a sheet of plexi just temporary till you can get it fixed.
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i scooped up some dap white silacone. its just a box for to 12 inch rockford p3's so i think i should be good.
Good deal then, color doesn't matter.
Just like I said though, be sure to let the box vent for a day or two before putting the sub in.
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DAP is a good brand, just go with a tube of clear silicone or a smaller squeeze tube...
Just be SURE to let it cure and vent the fumes a day or two before putting subs in. From what I've read the fumes can harm the glues used in making the subs.
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My whole reason for trying to switch over to 12GA wire is so that I can go squeeze 2 wires into the terminals on the BL's, so I can come out of the box with just 2 holes and not 8 like I currently have. I'll show you what I mean, I have a pic of the back side of my box. Im wanting to do the sub wiring internal to the box, and just have my 1+ and 1- wire coming out the box. I'm currently using 8Ga wire and that shit is thick, and can just barely get 1 wire into the speaker terminals.
Maybe try and tin the tips of the 8 gauge then file the ends into a half circle so that when you put them both in the terminal (each one from each side of the terminal) they create a single 8 gauge diameter.
You know what I mean? I wish I could draw a picture or something.
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Haha, I need to add that one to my routine... :01nocomment8so:
But seriously, I have to agree with the hecklers I get from when I'm performing, "If you were doing real magic, you would be making gas prices lower and healing cancer not doing card tricks".
You gotta be pretty fuckin hardcore to pick up women healing chickens though...
Cool post
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I've seen situations where the sub amp's ground was poor and it was picking up engine noise while starting up the truck. This might not be for your situation, but just a thought.
Does your amp not have a delay turn on? Or does the deck for that matter?
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Remember if you're using it in a ported box it's better to go with polyfil sheets. Just get some thick sheets and staple them to the inside walls of the box to keep them away from the sub.
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scrape it off and wipe it down with acetone if all else fails
Ew, I sure hope I don't have to, but if it comes down to it I guess you just gotta get dirty to learn from mistakes.
Thanks loads for all the suggestions guys.
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if you go into the "ELECTRICAL" section on here and look under "IMPORTANT TOPIC .......WIRE/FUSE guide" and you'll see the chart for the different size power wires and then you scroll down and you'll find the speaker wire sizes. so yes there is a chart for this.
NVM! Damn just seen it!
Thanks tons man, I must have not even seen that earlier!
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You could also try and put a hot batch on top of the cold batch.
I've definitely been thinking about this, but I'm not sure if that couldn't be more harmful in the end.
It's still pretty muggy outside this morning, and the shit has yet to goop up even...
Hopefully after I get home I can try a big heat lamp.
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It will harden over time. how long depends on weather conditions. You can also setup a lamp on it to help heat it, that should help it some. Don't feel too bad, I've glassed some shit and forgot to add hardener to it
I kid you not, the comment's yall are leaving are making me feel alot more hopeful, I really appreciate it guys.
I did fail to mention that yes it has been a very crummy weather day here. It's been muggy and dark all day, and was raining right before I glassed so it was humid as a mo-fo. The heat lamp idea sounds good, but I'm assuming tomorrow should be pretty sunny atleast for a bit so I'm gonna have my dad set the box out in the sun while I'm at work, hopefully that will get things going.
It's just one of those depressive feelings when you're hoping like hell you didn't just screw up such a huge piece of work.
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sorry to thread jack, but didnt think a new thread needed to be started for this question: Would 12Ga be just fine for delivering 1100+RMS wattage to each of my BL's? Im needing to dump my 8ga speaker wire for thinner stuff.
No worries man, I finally got a hold of some 12 gauge and already put it in my box so I got my question taken care of.
I'm not personally sure with that man. I've done 12 gauge for 1000 watt RMS installs, but i don't know where you draw the line and jump up with it.
Just to be safe I'd look for some 10 gauge dude.
You would think there's a chart for this? I know there's one for power wire, but nothing on speaker wire? Any idiot can tell you that you cant run 18 gauge with an amp pushing 2000 watts, (that's obvious) but I mean, where do you draw the line on this topic?
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I say the hell with numbers and go with the polyfil. Almost all of my enclosures I would try without the fill, then with and I know a human ear can't tell the difference between a number or two, but you will notice a better sound, and a better quality of the sound.
The theory is that the fill will trick the subs into thinking the box is bigger than it is. (Great for regular cab truck boxes) Therefore If I am a hair shy of the recommended volume I will always add fill to my boxes. But like I said, best thing is listen to it without fill, then add the fill and see.
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Used some older hardener and I think it's causing my setup to not harden yet, anyone got tips or solutions?
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I strongly suggest you save up the 200 or so and buy the ktx-100eq. You will want to run it a few times. I bet I have honestly ran it 15 times if not more. A few tips and tricks can be found here. Although the thread is long , somewhere in the last four or five pages or so , there is a guy that is a huge audessy home audio nut and he puts out some great tuning advice. Some of the obvious stuff is , adjusting the sub amp so the gain is turned way down before running the imprint, and turning it back up to the proper input voltage afterward. The imprint will try to muffle your bass, to "match" the rest of your system . Spending forty bucks a run will get expensive once you start trying to dial it in properly. If you lived closer to me, I would offer you to come over and use mine as often as you like. And look around, sometimes on some of the forums, the imprint kits pop up for sale from time to time...
Hmmm, that does seem to make more sense now that you say why to buy it. I guess it would be a while before I'm ready for it, so in that time I can keep my eyes peeled for a system.
Thanks for that link btw, that does have alot of good info on the system. Definitely just bookmarked that!
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I want to imprint my truck, but damn if it's gotta wait.
Right now I'm still building the new box for behind the seat, and I've yet to replace all of the stock speakers and add components. THEN, after all that money, get my imprint on!
The kit looks like it would be nice, but i don't know if I can afford it for as much as I would use it. My local shop has the equipment, and they charge $40 to do it so I'll probably just let them do it when I'm finished with the build.
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Brak
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Man I miss that show...