The Performer
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Posts posted by The Performer
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The hell is that little thing? Is that your engine?
Just kidding, haha, it must kick ass having a car with today's gas prices.
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Just to be safe, you would do best to post the specs of your sub on here and have someone tell you how big to make it and how big to do the port as well.
You cant just drill out a hole in a sealed box and make it ported, sealed boxes are smaller in volume than what would be needed for a ported in most cases.
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Well from what i've been seeing in standard cabs, facing them towards the floor with about 3-4 inches of clearance has sounded "better" then towards seat or back. Unless how ever back is very solid, with like Hushmat, or Dynamat to keep it from flexing at all. And towards the seat, the seat absorbs a good bit of sound. All IMO of course.
I'll believe it, I've got a buddy with an extended cab in which his W3's are facing the floor and it sounds great.
I've yet to have seen that done in a regular cab, might you have any pictures?
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There's a good picture of a single 10in. ported box like what they were describing on this page.
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Ok, here's my results from trying out this today. Sorry but I didn't have access to the good camera today so I had to use my phone for the pictures and videos.
Like I said, the main difference I noticed was that my rear wall vibrated more directly both with my sub phase at 0 and 180 degrees.
Just for the funniness of how I did this I took the pictures.
Here's a pic of how my subs are before.
Then here's after I turned the boxes around. I had to hold them up while I pushed the seats back to hold them in the up position.
Now here's the videos. The audio is whack with the crappy cell phone mic, but I can't complain too much.
If you notice in the video I gotta represent that 1/8 tank of gas, that's how we roll.
No joking at all but the videos SUCK big time considering the audio...
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Let me know how it sounds, i think if I reversed them it would work out good because I wouldn't have to worry about the excursion of the subs touching the seat.
That's true, but just creates the new problem of worrying about the excursion touching the back wall.
By the way, I just tried out flipping my boxes and got some pictures and videos which I'll post up tonight. Personally with my setup the only thing I noticed was that my back wall flexed and made the plastic piece inside rattle, as well as I felt most of the vibration on the ass part of the seat and not the back. I'm starting to think maybe it would just be better to go the traditional configuration.
Either way, if anyone knows of more advantages to the topic please post them, I'll have my videos and pics up later on tonight.
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IDK how the DC's sound sealed, but I can tell you that infinity 1052w sound better in smaller sealed enclosures than any alpine or RF , especially for 10's. Infinitys are kinda on the cheaper side though; you can probably do better for the money. All I know is when I hear somone wants 10's sealed, it'si hard to beat the amazing sound of infinity reference.
I've seen some infinity's at best buy, they didn't impress me in the store, although I haven't heard them in a custom box so there might be some issue.
Kinda off topic but I think I will be putting infinity reference 4x6's in the rear pillars of my truck. They will be run directly off of the deck, but I'm not going to worry about external amp for them, my alpine will do fine for me.
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Got my attention, i'm wondering the same as well
It's definitely one of those questions you don't see often, haha.
I'm considering to flip my boxes in my truck after work to try and see if they make a difference. I'm thinking how I'm going to do it and my idea is pretty ghetto so I'll be sure to take some pictures for the laugh factor.
(There could quite possibly be some duct tape involved... No promises though...)In the meantime, how about some more input guys?
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Couldn't you do one box that stretches across the whole back area? would that help with the airspace issue?
He might have the best suggestion so far man, keep it simple and you can get a hella lot of air space then people assume from single cabs. If nothing else the minimum of the subs recommended volume.
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Got a reply back from Rusty and yes I am totally surprised at the value.
Considering this new factor I'm 95% certain at the moment on the DC level 2's.
Thanks again guys!
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LOL, I've never seen anything like that, I'm gonna have to read more about this.
Great find.
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Hey guys, this question kinda changes things around. I've seen a lots of times where someone will ask this question but in reference to a car or somewhat larger vehicle. My question is, do the rules still apply the same when it comes to an install behind the seats of a singlecab?
I've been tossing around design ideas in my head and I'm finally deciding on a fiberglass enclosure mainly for the aesthetics appeal, but also because it will allow more flexibility when it comes to mounting my cap and amp to the box as well. Anyway, back to the topic, I saw in LSN2meBoom916's build thread a box he built (for a crew cab I believe) in which the subs were facing the rear wall. He gave me the approval to use his picture so that I might help explain what I was getting at in this thread. Here's the box in relation to the topic,
It's a unique design in that I've yet to have seen a slope box for behind a seat in a pickup that the subs were facing the rear wall. I asked him how he felt about the sound from this configuration and here's his response,
One MAIN thing to consider with this type of box/vehicle environment is what type of output you need/want to achieve..."Big bass" means lots of air movement/displacement and for that you need either lots of SD or lots of excursion+an open enough path for the bass to get around inside the cab...so keep in mind, putting a sub very close or up against a wall will lessen the lower bass output but can enhance the midbass or punchiness.
In my case w/ this truck that was goal, so using 8's and having the subs pressed up against the back wall or seats was ok....I would do some testing with this if you can b4 you settle on a full speed ahead design, just so you're not dissapointed.
In my other thread about what were good quality subs for the price range I was looking at I got tons of great feedback, and a PM to rusty about DC subs has now turned my full attention towards the DC route. I'm about 95% settled on them at the moment, DC level 2 10's. If I were to do this box with the subs facing the rear wall I would no doubt have to ensure that I don't let the excursion come close to the wall itself, so certainly some extra inch or more would have to keep them away from the wall. Also, considering LSN2meBoom916's advice I would also need to allow room for the air to flow from out behind the box as well, and I'm not sure if all of the added total depth of the entire enclosure is what I want in my truck. I like the option of being able to move my seats back considerably.
My other option with the box would be the standard seat facing configuration. I would still plan for a fiberglass enclosure with as much amp and cap mounting space, and would use grills to cover the subs for sure.
So my main question is, what are the advantages/disadvantages to going either route? I've had MUCH experience with the standard (sub facing the seat) configuration in single cabs, but never with the subs facing the back wall.
Thanks.
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Hmm, not sure which models are best, but I would recommend Viper to anyone, I've been very happy with mine. If you take a look on their site it looks like the models with the least features might have what you are looking for.
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The JBL's are very nice. Have great sq in sealed boxes.
The Kickers are pretty good IMO. In the right box, My team mate had 2 12 inch CVR's behind his seat in a Chevy standard cab, then 2 CVX's in the same box. It had good SQ but then could get loud. And for the square subs the L5's aren't horrible in SQ. But the L7's have basically no SQ but good SPL. I have a L7 15 across the room from me. Got really loud with no SQ.
And if you you can get DC. I love em. You might be surprised at their prices.
My wonder had always been why so many people would swear by kicker, but then almost the same amount would rag them. Therefore I just would always stray away to not take my chance, although hell I could be completely wrong.
I've heard the square kickers and to me it's almost like some are really loud, but not anything surprising to me. For the size I would have expected that type of sound, but I don't know, they just never would strike me as impressive.
Anyway, yeah I'm eager to hear back from rusty, I NEED to decide on what I'm going to be putting in my truck so I can start on the damn box and try and sell these insignia's.
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I would either go with the RF P3's or the DC LV2's. I know you can get the new P3's for about $88 a piece + shipping.
Yeah I've pitched the shallows out of the equation, but you're saying there's reasonable quality from the standard P3's then?
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Well in my experiences they seem to be very under rated. So if you want tight clean bass, for $250.
Just because, the Kicker CVR 10
Just a few......My friend has 4 of the JBL 8's in his truck. They sound amazing, only on about 600 RMS total.
That JBL looks like a damn good sub for the price! A little deep but I can make it work, the subs in my truck at the moment are over 6 inches and I handle it.
Now kickers I can say I have yet to be sold on. I've never heard one that impressed me and something about the design I just cannot take seriously to seem like a quality sub. Especially the square kickers, (see, I've got so little interest in them I don't even know the names)
I've seen great performance from the square ones when it comes to being loud, but I just cant set it in my mind to believe a square shape would give reasonable sq.Sweet, looks like my options are getting a hell of alot better!
And I sent a pm to rusty about the DC's. I'm afraid to get my hopes up, but it would be very hard for me to spend over 300 on subwoofers, but who knows, maybe depending on how hard I bust my ass this upcoming month maybe I could afford something a little nicer than I was initially expecting.
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What kind of amp is it? Model and make.
What kind of bass are you looking for? Tight bass for rock and country, is what I'm guessing.
Spot on about the rock! I guess the pic of my playing my guitar gave it away, but all in all I really do listen to EVERYTHING. My cd's have so much variety it's not even funny.
Anyway, that's not a real answer, so to be more specific I do have a preference as to I like my system to be geared for TIGHT but loud bass in reference to the rest of the music. My subs and enclosures at the moment are geared for a more rock setup. Although, I simply HAVE to have the option of popping in my rap mix and showing my buddies that I can keep up with the loud toys such as the builds you see around the forums. I've got no where near the loudness, but for the expected average joe setup (a non modded singlecab) I've done excellent so far at surprising everyone with the sound I get from behind the seats.
My bad bigtime on not giving more info on my amp, but it's an Orion HCCA D1200 (mono block).
At the moment I have two insignia 4ohm subs that are parallel bridged to produce a 2 ohm load on my amp making the output 400 watts. My intention was that I would present it with a 1ohm load when I could afford new subs, it's one of the main factors of me buying it. At 1 ohm it will give a total power of 600 watts.
Thank you guys so much for all the responses. I'm feeling loads better about my options.
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No they don't not at all, and IMO They don't drop as low.=, and usually need just as much air space at that. They just allow you to make the box shallower.
Hmmm, not sure if I like the sound of that...
Those audioque's look like they only come as 4 ohm but otherwise they look pretty sturdy, but I really want to drop my amp to 1 ohm and get the full power.
12's I cant do, that's pushing it a little too much for the sound I want. Thanks though dude!
Thanks for all the replies, please keep shouting out your opinions, I could use as many as possible.
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Don't pay for school.
Only spending $2000 or less on a vehicle.
Insurance will be paid per month.
I live at home with my mom, no need to pay rent and such.
I've already put insurance and such into consideration...
I'm not stupid.
Nah dude, my bad, didn't mean to come across like a jackass, I was just curious.
Personally I guess I just spend what money I have differently so it was just hard for me to add everything up to try and understand everything.
No offense at all man.
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Working full-time at a grocery store.
I have seven monthes of saving up ahead.
What about vehicle, insurance, gas payments, school, and other expenses like that?
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That sounds like alot of money to build up...
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Does okay for the power it on you need to upgrade your electrical and get that thing moving. I also read a youtube comment where you said I hope I'm in the high 140s and I'm sry but in no way is that jimmy in the high 140s.....maybe on the AC but not on a TL
He mentioned something about paying to get it metered, is there ways for people to get their volume level metered for free at these competitions?
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I can push it to 2.37 if i go with 3/4 MDF
That's a hell of jump... What in the world were you considering on using with the 1.85 cubic volume at first?
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would probably get alot of rattle.
I'd believe that.
Best bet is put in a backboard and since it's covering a decent sized area possibly some small braces vertically along it so the wood wont try and flex on you.
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Can I Turn A Seaeld Box To Ported
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
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Are you going to put the same amount of subs back in or close off a hole or two?
Find out what the total volume you will need with the dc's (ported) and see if you can match the volume depending on how many you use. If it's close enough I don't see why you wouldn't be able to do it. Just make sure the volume is good for ported in relation to how many subs are in there.
The box is roughly 4.7 cubes assuming the wood is around an inch thick. If you went with 4 level 3's or level 4's you would need at least 4 cubes for a ported setup (according to dc soundlabs specs). On the site it's saying that on both the level 3's and 4's they require a full cube for a ported setup.
So technically if you wanted to do it I think it could work. However what kind of tuning would you be looking for?