The Performer
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Posts posted by The Performer
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Try some Dub-D fowty. :
(WD-40)
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Maybe it's just me but I cant ever see any of the pictures in this thread or the no chit chat thread steve is posting.
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these are my fog lights i painted with nighstade
these are my headlights i sprayed a small layer inside the plastic cover not outside
if u do this i recommend HID'S
here is a glimps of my tail light
edit: here is a better picture of my tail light"just picture it clear coated and not cracked like mine is someone hit it with a rock or something.. also this has been through winter and its still just as dark as when i put it on last year
You got the shade looking damn good, but you need some polish on that clear coat.
Trust me on it man, If you take your time and do it it'll look awesome.
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its actually not hard at all and my tail lights are in 4 pieces...the head light and tails look good...saves u about idk 95 dollars from a tint shop for their matteriel and their gay ass $12/h labor
edit spelling
Yeah but their "gay ass $12/h labor" is what makes the difference in your lights looking like they got sprayed by a rattle can or looking excellent.
There's an excellent way to do spray paint, and there is a "common" way.
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=45762
Here's a few pics of my chevy logo that I tinted with VHT and clear coated then did the polish technique like I show in that thread.
Daytime
Night
The trick is to wetsand the plastic down with around 600 grit to clean and get the surface prepped for the night shade, then spray it on. Then use 800-1000 to level the VHT down, then clear coat a good few times and wetsand/polish with that. Check the thread I attached.
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Install a fuse specifically for the LED's.
Find out how much the LED's draw and put a fuse just a hair bigger than that as close to the battery in the circuit as possible.
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Flip out screens leave a bad taste in my mouth.
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I use that saw pretty regularly on just about anything and it's a good saw, however I wouldn't depend on it to build an enclosure. Once that battery starts getting low you take a chance of having the saw die in the middle of a sheet.
Just get you a good corded saw. I use a rigid and it's one of the better saws I've used.
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Opinions? Comments?
I personally am not all that enthusiastic about it, I just had to do it before someone else did.
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If it's in great shape? All the parts are there? Don't have an alarm already? I'd say put it in, it would only be a plus.
My brother inlaw had an alpine alarm that came in his old F150. It worked pretty damn good, was decently loud.
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If you get a DEI product... I'm not so sure about the other brands.. but the best thing to do would be to hook up the normal siren to the siren output of the alarm... than hook up the train horns to the HORN output of the alarm.. normally by default im pretty sure the HORN output only goes off on FULL ALARM... so it wont go off for arm.. and disarm.. and i can remeber if it goes off on WARN away or not. i know some of this is programmable as well.. I've done this on a couple cars.. and it will definately scare the shit out of somebody trying to jack your shit.
You are correct, the HORN output does not trigger with warn away. However, most are quite flexible with their programing giving you a few options.
Actually right here in my thread I have a video showing just how it works in what this thread is discussing.
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=46289
Also shows how to use other aux. outputs from your alarm.
I added a small air horn setup to the truck,
It is wired as so.
Alarm output
HORN (-) - Factory horn relay/Air horn relay
CHANNEL 4 (-) - Factory horn relay/Air horn relay (programmed 3 second pulse)
So both outputs from the alarm share the horns, when full alarm is triggered the siren, factory horn, and air horns sound.
During arm, disarm, and warn away, only the siren chirps.
By activating channel 4 on the remote, the factory horn and air horns will sound for a 3 second duration.
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An alarm is only as good as the install, no offense but if you're asking that take it to a pro.
Or become a pro.
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that the problem i will have to mount tight to the panle to make it fit. That brain is huge compared to the old one without remote start
Try different locations for mounting it and see how well it picks up with the shock sensor.
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Honestly i dont reccomend it at all, My buddy had some nathan horns and some buell horns hooked to his alarm and everytime the truck, locked, unlocked, remotely started, and when the alarm went off, u want to talk about annoying there were many night i wanted to tear his head of bcuz id wake up thinking i was getting run over by a bus bcuz of those fucking things, So ur gonnna wanna think really hard about this, cuz i can tell you now false alarms will happen, My shit goes off almost twice a night every night from acorns and such falling out of my oak tree.
You're buddy had either an out of date alarm, or just had the brain programmed entirely wrong.
Most alarms allow you to add the truck's horn to the alarm, however you can program it to only sound when the alarm is triggered. It will not sound during normal arm, and disarm.
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Don't use paint, use the VHT nightshade, it's made to be translucent.
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Cant blame your local shops for downtalking on un popular products.
Honestly ask yourself this, if you worked at a shop and everyday all day you knew what the best products you sell were and how well they perform that's what you would base your opinions on. This is because when someone comes in to ask you "what's a good product that will perform great?" you point them to the best that you know to your knowledge what they can leave with from the store and have a good product.
So now some punk know it all audio hobbyist comes in and asks you "have you ever heard of (unpopular brand)?" You say, "No I've never heard of them, but I have installed and heard this product on many occasions and it is the best that I've seen by far."
Now also put this into consideration. Your local shop probably gets in weekly a stereo to get fixed that consists of some no name SHIT equipment that the owner says "I bought it online for cheap as hell" Obviously this equipment is top notch, after all the amp CLEARLY reads 30,000 watts on the case, and is the same weight of a empty beer can, but not only that the technology is so sophisticated that the manufacturer has managed to fit 30,000 watts of power in an amp the size of a single DIN headunit. Dealing with situations like this on 99% of your experience with "bought online equipment" makes you pretty weary when someone mentions "I got it online."
Point being, honestly if I did not myself own DC products, and worked in a shop and some "smarter-than-me" kid comes in and tries to tell me "hey I bet the stuff I read about online will be louder than the overpriced crap you work with all day" I'm probably going to look at you and laugh inside. And because I haven't heard of this stuff, you as the smartass (doing audio simply as a hobby) will jump all over the fact that you (the hobbyist) are more knowledgeable than me (the professional ON A PAYROLL) Damn, what a bad ass you are.
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I don't think it will be the same result since the LED tails can have clear housings...
but this is that same denali with the LED tails clear housing but painted
That's what I figured.
Looks good.
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I would say do it if you are getting LED's.
IMO if you did them to stock housings with regular bulbs it wouldn't have enough power to shine through the paint and still be decently visible.
I think it looks really sick if you do body color...
I've been curious what shaded taillights will look like with LED bulbs, got any pics? I'm talking about stock housings with like 3157 LED bulbs, not just the complete LED taillight retrofits you buy. Got any pics?
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Can of nightshade and can of clear. Look at my guides to make the spray job look top notch.
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you could just take it to a powdercoat shop and have them do it for you
Word.
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get a chrome tip, scuff it and paint it.
I've never had much luck with painting anything that has any trace of chrome left on it. I would think your best bet would be to find a tip not chromed and go from there.
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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=45762
You don't use soap, you add soap to your water while your sanding as it gives the sanding a lil more slickness while sanding.
I fill a spray bottle with water, then add a few drops of soap and shake it up.
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I figure one more teaser picture would be good?
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viper 791 removal
in Security Center - Car/Home Alarms, devices, tactics, tips....
Posted
No joke. While working on a friends alarm she got from BB I saw all kind of T-taps and other remote start no-no's and then when I told the guy at BB about it he tried to lie to me and tell me that I was full of shit that he soldered everything. I told him he's a goddamn liar that I can point to the T-taps for him directly in sight from under the dash, next to the alarms brain sitting right there in sight of the floorboard.