The Performer
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Posts posted by The Performer
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Im doing this in my 2000 Silverado LT 1500 but it looks like im doing it different from you guys those
Your truck uses 194(I believe) bulbs. After 03 all the lights are soldered to the boards and are non serviceable (Or should I say, supposed to be non serviceable)
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if i do it and screw it up how hard is it to fix it
In my situation with my truck, a new cluster is over $300.
Hard is the least of your problems unless you're made of money.
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wasnt smack talk, i wanted to order them today so i was in a rush, sorry for the misunderstanding... i ended up ordering 4 t1.5 leds and 6 wled 194s from superbrightleds.com, ill take pics of the process when i put them in so anyone that wants to do this will have a resource, eventually im going to replace all interior lights but idk how to find what resistors are needed
Haha, sorry man just messin with you. :
Where are you putting the 194's? And what year are you talking about?
As for resistors, start your car up and read the voltage of the system at run (Usually around 14v) Then take that information and use this calculator if you don't know your electronics theory formulas. http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
But seriously guys, I would NOT recommend these kind of mods unless you have ALOT of experience with VERY small delicate electronics, as well as alot of knowledge of what you're getting into. For instance, I'll give you guys a preview of my airbag switch in my truck. Things like this are VERY easy to break, and if you don't know EXACTLY what you are doing you have a chance of really screwing up your vehicle.
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sooo umm about my original question... thanks for the replies but none of them answered the questions
And like I said, give me some time and I would have all the info you needed.
Keep with this smack talk and I might just keep all my pics and instructions to my own damn self.
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I read you have to use 4 3.4 + or - volt led's wired in series to get a voltage of higher then 12 volts so they dont blow is it possible to just use one led and what would be needed?
Not sure what you're trying to say, but I think you're putting way too much thought into it. It's basic electronics theory, the vehicle gives out 12v from the bat, and 14v at run, and the LED needs 3v. Make the circuit for the LED safe up to 14.5v and you're good to go.
Alot of these replies are confusing.
I guess to whoever said are they dimming? No they don't dim on their own, the dimmer controls all of the lighting. No they don't flicker, my first run of LED swap had the wrong value resistor by just a tad too much, and cheap LED's and a few had failed, but now It's all good.
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Give me about a week and I'll be done with my truck and friends truck. As of now almost all dash illumination and buttons are done with mine, and most of hers done. 03 silverado (mine) and 05 sierra (friends)
Kinda was going to keep this as a surprise but oh well. Just wait till I'm 100% done.
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If you do actually have a strive to learn to play then it's going to be easy for you to learn. The main thing to realize is to not put a time frame on how fast you're learning to play. The hell with those jackasses that will tell you, "oh I just learned to play a couple weeks ago", that will just piss you off cause %99 of the time they are full of shit.
Don't try and learn off of youtube how to play stuff either, you will just get distracted with so many songs that you'll forget what you were trying to learn in the first place. Teach yourself about 2-3 chords every two days and learn all the major/minor chords. That will be the hardest part, because at that time you will be learning but not applying it to it's fullest. After you've got a few chords, start looking for songs that you LIKE, that look like they have an easy melody to them.
Great site WWW.ultimateguitar.com. They will have tab forms and chord forms for songs usually. Find some easy songs and start applying what you know. Print out the songs with the chords, when you come across a chord you haven't learned yet, draw a little diagram of it on the side of the page so you can remember it, then just keep playing. Keep up doing like that then start adding more to your playing and learn some riffs to throw in. Look up some tabs for songs you like, learn to play.
My primary acoustic is a cheapo ibanez, however it's a great guitar. I love having it because I know I can throw it in my truck and go, and even if need be I can shove it in the toolbox and lock it up. http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product...?sku=581659#new
Runs $200, and I will say there's better out there, but that's just what I use and it's been great to me. I will definitely be upgrading the tuners however.
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$65 is actually a really good price for that remote. I need one as well, got a link to that?
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what the shit? dot approved conversion kit? how is that possible ive never seen an hid kit give a cutoff line in a halogen housing... how is anything above 4300k legal? 10k is so damn blue you wont be able to see shit if it rains at night
I think it means DOT approved as in (off road use only DOT approved) You have to make sure of that if you're concerned about legality.
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I've installed the cheaper HID kit's and I have to say they are pretty questionable. You can really tell a difference in quality made.
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Wow that's awesome, I wish I could have made that show! Maybe next time.
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Windows > OSX
Linux > Windows
Linux is just kinda hard to use, but alot more powerful and efficient.
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Have you ever actually seen a headunit go into protection?
And what are you basing this 'not 2 ohm stable' on... They get a bit hot but that's it. Just because they don't rate it at 2 ohms doesn't mean it can't do it...
Yes. I have.
If you want to argue with me on the matter read this entire thread, all 4 pages. There's MANY of posters who will prove your theory incorrect.
http://community.crutchfield.com/forums/thread/15414.aspx
(Example of going into protect)Volume > "16", HU resets itself in order to protect it's internal amp
(Example of getting hot)The radio gets hot, and I don't think it puts out as much bass as the speakers shouldThe fact of the matter is in the production factory of a H/U the product is designed from the floor up around a 4ohm speaker (a.k.a. the most common load presented to a H/U. Now, if you read that thread, you'll see that infinity claims that the purpose of their 2 ohm speaker is to act as a 4 ohm load when the motor gets warm and resistance is increased. That's fine and dandy, but still goes back to my first claim, that if the H/U was designed for a 4 ohm speaker, then the 4 ohm speaker would do the same and increase resistance, and at that point is where all the design for sound quality and efficiency would be built from.
Not even to mention I'm sure you know the result of presenting a 2 ohm load to a 4 ohm stable amp? Who hasn't seen that? Who will agree with me that they've seen this example and almost always the amp will cut off and go into protection. It's a fact that the circuit is having to work harder, that goes for H/U's or amps.
Now with all this being said, I've seen many instances where people run infinity's off the H/U and have no real dangerous issues, of course almost every one the headunit would run hotter than usual, but luckily no protection mode. At the same time, some do go into protect.
It's like riding without your seatbelt, there's nothing that says 100% you're going to get a ticket, but does that mean it cant happen? Take the risk if you like, but do your homework before hand and know the facts. The H/U company wont cover it if you use a load they are specifically telling you NOT to use, not because they don't want competition, but because they honestly did not plan for a 2 ohm load. Don't get me wrong, I've said it before, infinity speakers sound amazing, but the FACT is they might have been made for a H/U, but H/U's were NOT made for a 2 ohm load. Going into protection or not, you cannot deny the principle that a heavier load is going to make the amp work harder than it was designed to. Sure it might work, but I personally don't like using my products the way they were not supposed to be used.
If it were me, I'd put them on a 2 ohm stable amp and call it a day. It'll be better not only for the H/U but you'll be giving them the proper power as well.
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You could get the install manual from directed, but you must be registered under their site.
Depending on where you got it installed you might be able to talk them into giving you the manual, or atleast maybe pulling it up for you on their computer from directed. Make friends with the guys at your install shops, just don't waste your time with Best buy, they are about fucking useless.
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They are single 2 ohm. Just give each one its own channel and don't try and run any other speakers off that channel. Doesn't matter if it's a headunit or an amp, unless the amp is a total piece of shit.
99.99999% of car audio stuff these days is 2 ohm stable.
Granted the OP might not know what the hell he's talking about, or his misworded it, but he clearly wrote dual 2 ohm.
As well I disagree, not 99% of everything is 2 ohm stable, especially head unit's. It absolutely DOES matter if it's a headunit or amp. Especially that the headunit in question is 100% NOT 2 ohm stable, this guy would hook up the speakers to it after your advice and be putting his H/U into protection 24/7.
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Yes, this will be the correct way to wire them.
Yes, the alpine is stable at 4 ohms, and produces 15w rms. No matter what infinity claims about their speaker being superior due to the 2 ohm load the fact is, that almost every H/U is designed from the ground up with the assumption that it will run a 4 ohm speaker. An amp installed for the means to power such speakers is a different story, and this is where infinity shines. A multi channel amp that is 2 ohm stable per channel powering infinity's can be the best route to go verses running a standard 2 ohm speaker through a H/U.
However in your case for the time being you will be fine running them off of the H/U as long as you follow that wiring diagram.
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Windshield
in Tint
Ford decided to put those damn black dots around the edges of their windshields so i cant tint my f150 without it looking like shit for one, and two, obvious to the cops! dammit!!!!Replace the word highlighted in red with "Chevy" and you should be just fine.
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I opened each door individually, then pushed the switch in (you mean the little plastic button-looking things, right?) and it didn't have an effect. Could the switches themselves have gone bad? But all 4 at once...doesn't make sense to me.
No I believe it would only need 1 failed switch to cause your problem. Yes they can go bad. I've repaired them many of times on older chevy's, however usually the problem was that the switches wouldn't turn on. Depending on the switch design, I would believe that some cars could short at the switch and cause the lights to stay on.
That would definitely be what I check first, then I would try taking a step back at whatever splicing you did and see if the problem still exists.
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Im gonna just state the obvious at first and ask have you checked the door pin switches?
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Ughn!! Wood grain wif da leatha seats!! -
I've got the same alarm.
Explain a little more what exactly you are doing? You're saying the actuators for the lock and unlock arm? You have the install manual right? I need to check the manual, but Im pretty sure the door trigger is a - pulse.
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I've always heard steamers do good cleaning work. It would be worth the research.
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I agree with the rest of the guys, unless you want this alarm to be permanent, I would wait and get the one you really want. Like I say though, you haven't specified if you plan on settling with this specific alarm or not.
Not saying it isn't easy to go back and replace alarms, I'm just saying it's alot of hassle to go through 2 times in the same vehicle depending on if you do it yourself or have it done.
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That alarm wouldn't be too difficult, but it really depends on how much you know about your car's electrical system, and how much experience you've had with electronics. If you don't know what most of those components in that kit are and what they do then I would recommend having a professional install it for you.
Installing an alarm is alot more than just the install manual telling you which wires to tap.
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L.E.D. cluster
in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!
Posted
This is a touchy subject actually.
For instance here you have a typical 12v LED 194 replacement bulb.
You can plug it in straight up and it will work.
The downfall is, you will hear this many of times people complain about these failing after so long. The reason being MOST of these bulbs are designed to work off of a 12v power source. At run a typical vehicle will feed close to 15v through the car. That being said, the LED itself will get just a little too much voltage for it to work properly and over time it will fail. In this situation, you can correct the voltage getting to the 12v LED, by adding a resistor to the feed line. Measure the draw of the bulb, measure the highest voltage it will receive and use kirchoffs formula to get the proper resistor value. This is what I did for my DRL's. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...st&p=548958
In all of my dash and cluster work, it's the same principle just without the 12v pre made LED. I've got an LED that requires 3v and draws 20ma. I've got a source voltage of 14.5 therefore I add a 680 ohm resistor to the circuit which gives the LED a safe 2.8-3 volts.