The Performer
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Posts posted by The Performer
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Underpowering subs DO NOT cause damage to the sub.
Yes in a way it does, because normally when you underpower them by a decent amount, it's harder to adjust your gains correctly to when the amp begins to clip. So if you have a chance of doing that to the subs you can be in trouble.
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its so cute!
No.
Just no.
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To slugdub, You're definitely underpowering your infinity's by all means, but even worse you're over powering your H/U if you're not running them off of an amp. Infinity's are 2ohm speakers and most H/U are only 4ohm stable per speaker output.
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I also don't see this going very far either. It's too similar to the concept of those things you would buy at a flea market that looked like a poorly copied n64 controller with just RCA's coming out and you would plug it up to your tv. Then as you saw what it had to play you were disappointed because there were a bunch of ripoff NES games like a ripoff mario, racecar game, and ripoff zelda.
The point of having a game console is because it has the necessary hardware to do powerful graphics and processing. Something like that would not offer that, especially pulling it all through your tv cable. So as next generation game consoles are released with more power handling, and graphics producing, it would be harder and harder for a system like that to keep up.
I enjoyed this line the most.
OnLive's service can be continually upgraded, too, so you'll never be stuck with obsolete hardware again.That's gotta be
What kind of company in their right mind would actually do something like that? It would be like the problem like on the stride gum commercials. The company would stop making money because they aren't producing or selling new products. It would be the opposite of an ipod, where as you're walking out the door of the store with your brand new ipod, they're wheeling in a crate of new models, LOL. -
You're going to pay over 2 grand for a train horn...? :01nocomment8so:
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Yeah you've got it paired correctly then, that amp should be stable at 2 ohms.
Sub's are still in good condition? I've experience occasions where a sub blows and created a heavier load to the amp causing it to go into protect.
Then I've seen cases where the amp was just simply too sensitive to heat and overheated when it technically shouldn't have. Where is the amp mounted? And does it have good airflow and ventilation around it?
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why? Is it two boards internally bridged?
No if I'm correct it's for doing exactly what I was saying about running two runs of 4 gauge from the battery.
In the 06 models of the HCCA the manual said that you could use either one.
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just checked all the fuses they all look like new
idk how it could be the ohm load because iv had it for like 4 or 5 months and everyting worked goodd till now
Do you understand ohm laws and what an amp stable ohm load means?
I'd still recommend double checking your ohm loads.
Single or dual voice coil subs?
What ohm for each coil?
What wiring between each coil?
What wiring between each sub to amp?
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Seems like a not so smart amp design, you could do a run of 0 gauge to the amp fuse the 0 gauge. then use a distro block to make it into 2 4 gauge wires
It's like that for a reason.
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You have to put a fuse in no matter what amp it is.
You put it on the positive cable coming off of the battery, try and keep it as close to the battery as possible.
Are you new to this I'm guessing?
EDIT: just re read this, Gotcha now.
Depending on what amperage the recommended fuse is, I would suppose you just want it coming off of that main feed, then after splitting the heavy gauge into the two 4 gauge you can run them straight in. Or, if it's more feasible you could have two runs of 4 gauge straight off of the battery to the amp, but both must be fused, and in that case you would use two fuses that add up to the recommended amperage.
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Sounds like too big of an ohm load to me.
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PICS Please.........
I'm an Old School Orion Fan and I heard rumors they bringing back the old school red heat sinks.
Check my build thread in my signature, there's PLENTY of them.
I've got the HCCA d1200, it does more than it's worth in gold in my opinion. 600 watts rms at 1 ohm and sounds excellent.
EDIT: Just now seeing you might be talking about the NEWEST versions. Just now seeing them I'm shocked, they look so similar to their ancestor originals.
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Go back to the dual? :01nocomment8so:
I've got the 9887 and it's by far best headunit I could recommend period.
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I like it.
I must say the HCCA amps are damn good as well.
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Not bad at all.
Can't stand pepsi though. Used to like the taste, then it started to taste nasty to me, and I really don't like them after their logo "change".
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Not sure if any of you are familiar with the Texas A&M football team or anything, but either way I think everyone can appreciate this video because it's just too damn well done. Whoever made it did a fantastic job at thinking of the subtitles and making it all flow so good.
Just a little mention, lately our football team hasn't been doing so well, apparently we lost to some teams we shouldn't have and it's just been pretty crappy football for us for some time now so that'll give you an idea of what's going on.
Just enjoy!
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Sounds to me like you gotta case of dicknaybers. If it was me I'd be looking at this as more of a blessing than a disadvantage, give you something to do.
You can find all kinds of good neighbor pranks online. Personally I'd wait for them to have their party like you said and when their window is open toss a possum off in their house, that'd be pretty funny. Another good one is wait for them to leave their car windows open and spray a hella lot of pepper spray in there. Get some skunk screen (it's a product that when you mix the two chemicals together they create a VERY VERY strong smell like a skunk. Toss a bunch of that around their house.
Damn dude you're so lucky you gotta case of dicknaybers... That's the most fun in the world screwing with dicknaybers.
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Yeah, me too. A couple weeks ago I got a call from my Chase Card fraud dept. Someone had jacked my numbers and tried to charge $1000 worth of software. They rejected all the questionable charges and sent me a new card with no hassle at all.
That's kinda funny. You would suppose that someone that's got enough know how to get card numbers would just be able to bootleg the software and avoid buying it period.
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Yeah but I'm not looking to waste a bunch of money lol. If worst comes to worst I can just run it on 75 watts. I found an amp that's 4 ohms stable with an LFP, but only 75 watts per channel. Bridged minimum is 8 ohms.
Underpowering a sub can damage it and if that's the case you're still wasting money.
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Then go ahead and put it aside for your car, buy a home stereo sub and be done with it.
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You gotta have little bitty tools and little bitty arms and bodies like the people that made those cars.
On a serious note, did you try google? Or did you look for a chiltons/haynes manual for that car?
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You're looking for a 4 ohm stable (home stereo) amplifier that is capable of providing atleast 150 watts. Man you would have made your situation alot more simpler by just getting a regular (home stereo) sub with a build in amp.
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You still trying to power that JL sub with a home receiver?
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how heavy of a cloth did you use?
Says he used a T-shirt.
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They aren't lying to you put it that way. Sony does go by cea compliant rules. However, it will say 52x4W on the H/U face of course, but read the box. Find the CEA logo and it will tell you like 15w RMS x4 at 4 ohms.
So they aren't lying to you, you're just looking at the wrong place for the specs.
What kind of company in their right mind would actually do something like that? It would be like the problem like on the stride gum commercials. The company would stop making money because they aren't producing or selling new products. It would be the opposite of an ipod, where as you're walking out the door of the store with your brand new ipod, they're wheeling in a crate of new models, LOL.
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Acid Rain? Pics
in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!
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Would not even attempt that on glass.