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Armoredhaulin

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Posts posted by Armoredhaulin

  1. Are you talking about the bondo?

    Im gonna be needing about a gallon, i wanna pay for the product not shipping.

    The resin available at Home Depot or other places like that is basicaly a finishing resin, not the best choice for multiple layer applications because of the wax in it. This should really only be used on the final layer. Un-waxed or lay-up resin should be used in the layering of multiple layers of mat or cloth. Multiple layers of the waxed resin on top of each other can cause seperation between them.

  2. nobody has any info on this topic? I did a bit more research and I believe the first wire in the harness which is the 12volt should be hooked up directly to the battery it's charging (XS Power D3100) and I was wondering if I could jump the second wire in the harness to the second wire on the stock alternator which is the ignition? And do I HAVE to hook up a light, resistor or volt meter to the 3rd wire? Or do I only need the power and ignition?

    I would put this post in the Mechman section where you are dealing with a Mechman alternator. Matt can help you out with this problem I would assume.

  3. Everything I am going to type out right now is my honest perspective as the owner of a 12 volt related company.

    I know you have not asked me for a sponsorship but I will address this conversation towards you as if you had. Please take no offence at my blunt tone.

    You have to remember, that sponsorship is a business agreement.

    As the owner of a company, that is spending money on YOU, or at least takign a hit on some product, I have to know what I am getting out of the deal.

    Remeber, If I have an advertising budget.

    If I sponsor you, I might lose out on $750 worth of material.

    The number 1 thing I have to consider when spending ad money is this:

    Where is the best place for me to invest $750? Where will I get the most return on inventory (ROI) for my advertising dollar.

    So, I could put up a magazine ad.

    I could throw up some banner ads on a few websites

    or, I could sponsor someone and hope it comes back to me.

    So, now comes the point of ROI - We already have some magazine ads

    If I am happy with the Banner ads I have out there then I have to be feeling like a nice guy and decide to sponsor someon.

    But who?

    I get between 1-3 requests every day for people looking for a free ride, promising to put a sticker on their car in exchange for free product.

    Sure, it would be cool if I were the nice guy and sponsored veryone that asked, but really, at some point, I need to get something out of the deal too.

    Decals at SPL shows are not enough for any type of consideration. Hell, kids put stickers on their cars for stuff they don't even have IN their cars.

    I have never received a phone call from anyone saying that they wanted to buy my product because they saw a decal on some guys car at a show.

    So out of all the guys that ask me for a sponsorship I have to figure out who deserves it.

    Yup.. You have to seserve it.

    Just becuase you are a kid with a lot of high end gear does not qualify you in my book. You have to be willing to promote my company to the extent that proves you are a worth sponsee. That they money I invest in to your system some how comes back to me.

    So if I have 3 people that are looking for a sponsorship,

    One is 17 and is trying to save money to go to college and promises that he will tell all his friends aobut Second Skin

    Another is a 22 year old guy that has 2 years of SPL experience and hits 3 car shows per year

    The last is a member of 20 car audio forums that has a youtube account that gets tons of hits. Drives a car that hits 40 car shows per year and has a 7 year history of taking home trophies with 10 existing sponsorships with companies that I know the owners of.

    Who do you think is going to get the free ride?

    Again, you have to deserve it.

    Not everyone has to have a 10 year history in the lanes, but the difference between one guy withat is going to put stickers on his car, and another that will write up 20 build logs on 20 forums and make 5 before and after videos is quite large.

    At the end of the day, I have to see a value in the money I spend on you, and it is up to you to prove to me that you are valuable to my company.

    So, when you go send out your emails.

    Be prepared.

    Have a resume ready that outlines everything I will want to hear

    A histroy of your 12v competition or industry experience

    Include other comapnies that are sponsoring you

    Include pics of your car

    Give a time line for when you will have the car done, and pics presented to the company as proof

    Know what products of MINE you want. Don't tell me that Dynamat turned you down so now you are looking for my DynOmat - I don't sell Dynamat and you should know that!

    And lastly, do your best to tell me how you are going to make me look good and bring me customers that no one else is able to bring me.

    That is how you get sponsored..

    ANT

    I have to agree with Ant...most sponsors operate on a ROI policy...Return On Investment....meaning, will you be able to generate enough interest in their company and products to offset the $$$ they will be loosing givng you the products at the sponsorship price.

    It is better for them to sponsor someone with a $100 piece of shit car that goes to shows or competitions every weekend vs. a $100,000 custom ride that never goes to anything... more advertisment= more in return to them.

    With the economy in the toilet right now you will be very hard pressed to find any companies offering any kind of sponsorships right now unless you have something really special to offer them...and as much as I hate to say it, you can sometimes still buy you gear on the internet for less than what you can get at sponsorship price, really depends on the company.

    Ant offered me sponsorship with him because of what I am building and my overall plans in the future for what I plan on doing with the truck when it is done. To him is is a great opurtunity to help promote his company and show off what his products can really do.

    I have found it equally hard to get sponsors from either the big or small companies. The small companies would like to get their names out there but don't have alot of $$$ to throw around and the big companies have the $$$ but are already well established.

  4. So I just finished installing my equipment this past weekend, and I wanted to use an o-scope to set the gains (I did the 3/4 ear deal, but just like the extra security). So I call up a local shop and ask if they have one, and they said they dont need one, the only way they would need to use one is someone was strapping amps or two amps to a DVC. He then goes on to tell me they are way to expensive to have when you would only get a few uses out of it. Then says that there only a few shops in the state that have them (I'm in CT).....is this common??? After scrolling around the forums...oscopes seem to only be a few hundred that would suffice car audio....that cant be too much for a shop...

    Just wondering if this was common cuz I know guys on here own or work at a shop...

    I would say it is common...I don't know any shops around my area that have one either. I think it is more that these people don't know what the hell to do with it or how to use it correctly than a cost issue. To me, buying your own handheld o-scope is the best way to go that way you will always have it handy should you need to adjust anything. A couple hundred dollar investment is worth it to avoid the headaches of trying to get it done somewhere else.

  5. What were the original issues that you were having with the wires?

    Ok, so I've had previous posts about speaker and subwoofer problems. Well, I did manage to find a solution for both of them.

    The problem is, when I replaced my passenger door speaker with a NEW speaker, all of a sudden the speaker is distorting.

    I haven't had a chance to strip the door panel yet (the tools are at my shop, closed weekends) but when I installed it, it was a clean installation.

    Afterward, when I tested the sound before setting up the panel back on, everything was clear and precise, I had all the functions back to normal.

    But yesterday driving back home, I decided to turn on the radio.

    (I'm having my subwoofer replaced, so decided not to listen to my tracks and turned off the sub controls)

    Next thing you know, there's a minor distortion going on coming from the same passenger door speaker.

    Could there possibly be some kind of wiring damage that can cause such distortion?

    I'm asking this question because I do not have any experience with wires, but I can easily take apart a car.

    I'm planning sometime soon to check on the speaker during the weekdays, but for now, I'm wondering if there are possibility of wiring damages.

    Information:

    - Stock Speakers

    - Stock headunit

    I ordered stock speakers from Acura (I get discounts) to replace the blown out speaker. Even with a new speaker, there's still distortion going on.

    Please help.

    I'll provide any necessary information when requested upon.

    Thank you for your time.

  6. The noise barriers go right over the top of the mats. You spray them with glue and glue them in place. Very easy and very effective.

    thanks for putting this up. now it make alot more sense. i see and have a better understand of how to install/use the dampening mats and the noise coating but what about the noise barriers? i saw that you had no time to do it your self, and the other guy will do it, but btw the dampening mats and the noise coating i cant imagin where the noise barrier would go.

    can you do something with that next?

  7. I find that the 4 prong T-nuts work much better than the 3 prong version. Also, I always drill the mounting holes smaller than the barrel of the T-nut so you end up with a press fit into the wood. It helps prevent the T-nuts from spinning and bending the prongs over.

  8. What is really happening is the lower the frequency, the longer it take for the frequencies sine wave to complete 1 cycle. This translates into distance from the drivers cone. A listener won't recieve low sub frequencies full sine wave cycle until a distance of 20 feet or more.

    If you were to look at sub frequency on an O-scope, they would be very long and drawn out as compared to a tweeters frequencies that will be very quick and sharp. ;)

    It's very easy to figure with the correct formula.

    yeah, if you get some really low bangers, in the mid 20hz range, it can shake shit, i can shake the windows on my house from a good 20-30 ft away if not further on some really low ones
  9. i have like no joke posts, the box kinda was, but i forgot free air was bad, i wouldnt waste my time with joke posts all the time like this trust me lol.

    Now, are you serious about it NOT being 1 ohm? It's the same way on the negative side incase you didn't understand the awesome pic

    If the sub is a dual 2ohm then it would a 1ohm load as you have it wired. I would suggest that you jump the connecting wires from terminal to terminal than twisting and tapeing them together though.

  10. Well, yes & no...kind of depends on the application.

    The hotter & more humid weather will make the resin set-up faster than in the cooler weather, it depends on how much work time you need to put down all the resin. If the area you are doing is on the small side, you could mix the resin "hot" with more mekp because you could probably put it all down before it starts to set-up. If the area your doing is quite large, you will probably want to mix it "cold" with less mekp to extend your work time before it sets.

    For glassing the inside of an enclosure like your doing, it's less critical than if you were forming custom panels totally out of fiberglass like kick pods or glass sub enclosures. Mixing the resin to hot in those applications will cause the fiberglass the distort out of its intended shape.

    More layers in seperate applications is better than trying to lay down it all at once. Meaning, if you were going to be laying down, say, 9 layers of fiberglass mat, it's better to do it 3 layers at a time instead of trying to wet out all 9 layers at once. This will keep the heat much more minimal than the resin it will take for all 9 at once.

    If you mixed the resin close to the correct ratio it should harden regardless it will just take longer for the cure time. Resin does have a shelf life to it. If it is to old it may not harden or if it has been left in temps below freezing that will make it go bad also.

    I doubt that will be an issue for you being in AZ...haha!

    Hope that helps. :yahoo:

    so if it is hot outside you use less hardner. I live in az and plan on glassing the seams with my box and it is starting to hit 100 out.
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