Armoredhaulin

I know, but I can't seem to find any of those either???

Anyone????

Does anyone know where I can get one of these??? I need 1 more for my install. Thanks guys!

Depends a lot on the power and the length of the wires...typicaly for mids and highs 16awg would be ideal but I would avoid going smaller than that for runs over 15 feet or over 150 watts, but as always bigger is better!

This is where I get all my glass supplies from... http://www.mertons.com/ He's a great guy and the products are some of the best I have used...

The resin available at Home Depot or other places like that is basicaly a finishing resin, not the best choice for multiple layer applications because of the wax in it. This should really only be used on the final layer. Un-waxed or lay-up resin should be used in the layering of multiple layers of mat or cloth. Multiple layers of the waxed resin on top of each other can cause seperation between them.

This would be my suggestion.... http://www.eastwood.com/paints/automotive-...-paint-kit.html

I have to agree with Ant...most sponsors operate on a ROI policy...Return On Investment....meaning, will you be able to generate enough interest in their company and products to offset the $$$ they will be loosing givng you the products at the sponsorship price. It is better for them to sponsor someone with a $100 piece of shit car that goes to shows or competitions every weekend vs. a $100,000 custom ride that never goes to anything... more advertisment= more in return to them. With the economy in the toilet right now you will be very hard pressed to find any companies offering any kind of sponsorships right now unless you have something really special to offer them...and as much as I hate to say it, you can sometimes still buy you gear on the internet for less than what you can get at sponsorship price, really depends on the company. Ant offered me sponsorship with him because of what I am building and my overall plans in the future for what I plan on doing with the truck when it is done. To him is is a great opurtunity to help promote his company and show off what his products can really do. I have found it equally hard to get sponsors from either the big or small companies. The small companies would like to get their names out there but don't have alot of $$$ to throw around and the big companies have the $$$ but are already well established.

I would say it is common...I don't know any shops around my area that have one either. I think it is more that these people don't know what the hell to do with it or how to use it correctly than a cost issue. To me, buying your own handheld o-scope is the best way to go that way you will always have it handy should you need to adjust anything. A couple hundred dollar investment is worth it to avoid the headaches of trying to get it done somewhere else.

What were the original issues that you were having with the wires?

If i remember right the Bazooka amps were cooled by anti-freeze...not just water and they were designed to cool the boards not the cases. The PPI's were on the same idea but before my time so I am not to par with the ins & outs of them.

The noise barriers go right over the top of the mats. You spray them with glue and glue them in place. Very easy and very effective.

I find that the 4 prong T-nuts work much better than the 3 prong version. Also, I always drill the mounting holes smaller than the barrel of the T-nut so you end up with a press fit into the wood. It helps prevent the T-nuts from spinning and bending the prongs over.

What is really happening is the lower the frequency, the longer it take for the frequencies sine wave to complete 1 cycle. This translates into distance from the drivers cone. A listener won't recieve low sub frequencies full sine wave cycle until a distance of 20 feet or more. If you were to look at sub frequency on an O-scope, they would be very long and drawn out as compared to a tweeters frequencies that will be very quick and sharp. It's very easy to figure with the correct formula.

The Phoenix Gold units are quite nice or if you have the extra cash the Audiocontrol Matrix would be the better way to go. It is much more flexible should you need to change things around in the system down the road sometime.