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Everything posted by Armoredhaulin
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Show off your ride on www.mechman.com
Armoredhaulin replied to MECHMAN's topic in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
Thanks Matt...figured it out! I'll be adding more later. -
Show off your ride on www.mechman.com
Armoredhaulin replied to MECHMAN's topic in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
Hey Matt, am I missing something? How do I upload my pictures to your website gallery? -
I know, but I can't seem to find any of those either???
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Anyone????
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Does anyone know where I can get one of these??? I need 1 more for my install. Thanks guys!
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What type of resin do you guys use?
Armoredhaulin replied to Crump's topic in Fabrication, Fiberglass, Etc
This is where I get all my glass supplies from... http://www.mertons.com/ He's a great guy and the products are some of the best I have used... -
What type of resin do you guys use?
Armoredhaulin replied to Crump's topic in Fabrication, Fiberglass, Etc
The resin available at Home Depot or other places like that is basicaly a finishing resin, not the best choice for multiple layer applications because of the wax in it. This should really only be used on the final layer. Un-waxed or lay-up resin should be used in the layering of multiple layers of mat or cloth. Multiple layers of the waxed resin on top of each other can cause seperation between them. -
Dual Alternator wiring
Armoredhaulin replied to fli_noize's topic in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
I would put this post in the Mechman section where you are dealing with a Mechman alternator. Matt can help you out with this problem I would assume. -
I have to agree with Ant...most sponsors operate on a ROI policy...Return On Investment....meaning, will you be able to generate enough interest in their company and products to offset the $$$ they will be loosing givng you the products at the sponsorship price. It is better for them to sponsor someone with a $100 piece of shit car that goes to shows or competitions every weekend vs. a $100,000 custom ride that never goes to anything... more advertisment= more in return to them. With the economy in the toilet right now you will be very hard pressed to find any companies offering any kind of sponsorships right now unless you have something really special to offer them...and as much as I hate to say it, you can sometimes still buy you gear on the internet for less than what you can get at sponsorship price, really depends on the company. Ant offered me sponsorship with him because of what I am building and my overall plans in the future for what I plan on doing with the truck when it is done. To him is is a great opurtunity to help promote his company and show off what his products can really do. I have found it equally hard to get sponsors from either the big or small companies. The small companies would like to get their names out there but don't have alot of $$$ to throw around and the big companies have the $$$ but are already well established.
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I would say it is common...I don't know any shops around my area that have one either. I think it is more that these people don't know what the hell to do with it or how to use it correctly than a cost issue. To me, buying your own handheld o-scope is the best way to go that way you will always have it handy should you need to adjust anything. A couple hundred dollar investment is worth it to avoid the headaches of trying to get it done somewhere else.
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I find that the 4 prong T-nuts work much better than the 3 prong version. Also, I always drill the mounting holes smaller than the barrel of the T-nut so you end up with a press fit into the wood. It helps prevent the T-nuts from spinning and bending the prongs over.
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What is really happening is the lower the frequency, the longer it take for the frequencies sine wave to complete 1 cycle. This translates into distance from the drivers cone. A listener won't recieve low sub frequencies full sine wave cycle until a distance of 20 feet or more. If you were to look at sub frequency on an O-scope, they would be very long and drawn out as compared to a tweeters frequencies that will be very quick and sharp. It's very easy to figure with the correct formula.
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Resin
Armoredhaulin replied to fox_racin4's topic in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Mixing it to the ratios I mentioned, I have a good 30-40 minutes of work time before it starts to "gel". -
Resin
Armoredhaulin replied to fox_racin4's topic in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Well, yes & no...kind of depends on the application. The hotter & more humid weather will make the resin set-up faster than in the cooler weather, it depends on how much work time you need to put down all the resin. If the area you are doing is on the small side, you could mix the resin "hot" with more mekp because you could probably put it all down before it starts to set-up. If the area your doing is quite large, you will probably want to mix it "cold" with less mekp to extend your work time before it sets. For glassing the inside of an enclosure like your doing, it's less critical than if you were forming custom panels totally out of fiberglass like kick pods or glass sub enclosures. Mixing the resin to hot in those applications will cause the fiberglass the distort out of its intended shape. More layers in seperate applications is better than trying to lay down it all at once. Meaning, if you were going to be laying down, say, 9 layers of fiberglass mat, it's better to do it 3 layers at a time instead of trying to wet out all 9 layers at once. This will keep the heat much more minimal than the resin it will take for all 9 at once. If you mixed the resin close to the correct ratio it should harden regardless it will just take longer for the cure time. Resin does have a shelf life to it. If it is to old it may not harden or if it has been left in temps below freezing that will make it go bad also. I doubt that will be an issue for you being in AZ...haha! Hope that helps. -
Resin
Armoredhaulin replied to fox_racin4's topic in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
I use 15-20cc's of mekp per quart of polyester resin. 15cc's on the warmer days & 20cc's on the cooler days. Invest in a mekp measuring bottle. They are really cheap and make getting the proper mix ratio correct & it's a hell of a lot easier than trying to count out "drops" from those stupid tubes that come with the cans.