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Armoredhaulin

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Posts posted by Armoredhaulin

  1. Im down for anything boosting my apple tv voltage :P

    What do you guys think about getting the PG for the Apple TV and the Audio Control Matrix as a Line Driver before it hits the 3Sixty? People say it helps a ton and makes it sound hella better.

    Opinions? :)

    The Matrix will help alot. It is a great piece. I am putting 4 of them in my truck, so I guess that says something...haha!

    By boosting the signal before any kind of processing is the best way to go in my opinion.

  2. to add more to that. the lower power wont hurt the speakers. but turning up every settin on the deck, and the volume knob up all the way to get louder will cause a big clipped signal to get thrown at the speakers and cause over heating up to thermal failure

    Right...the distortion would be the hard part on the speakers...not the actual volume level....should have clarified I guess.

  3. everythings aftermarket, mix 'n' matched. sony HU, sony by nines, and alpine type s by nines. everything's 4 ohms.

    can i series parallel them?

    You can't series/parallel 2 6x9's....it would be either series or parallel, so either a 2ohm or 8ohm....8ohm would be pointless because the power would be so low you would most likely blow the speakers trying to get some decent volume out of them. 2ohm would work as long as the HU can hancle that low of ohm load.

  4. Hey Guys,

    Need to get a line driver to increase the output voltage of my apple tv in my car. Can anyone recommend a good one for me thats not crazy expensive? Or should i wait for the new 3sixty analog line driver

    thanks

    I assume that you only need a 2ch line driver?

    I would go with the Phoenix Gold LD....nice piece and not overly pricey...

    http://cgi.ebay.com/PHOENIX-GOLD-TLD22-CAR...%3A1%7C294%3A50

  5. I am waiting on the arrival of a second set of by nines for my car. Can I splice these into the current rear speaker channel or will that cause problems for both speakers on each channel? I'm just running off the HU and factory wiring at the moment, plan to run current speakers in prefab boxes as they are and the "new" ones in factory location...any advice?

    That's assuming that the speakers that are in there are 4ohms & the new ones are 4ohms also. Factory speakers can have all different ohm ratings so unless you know for sure I would suggest against it. I wouldn't run anything lower than a 4ohm load off of a HU anyway.

  6. So If I'm doing anything more then 3 layers I should not use Polyester resin with Wax Built in and buy some non Waxed Polyester resin to do a job like that.

    If by chance I get stock having to use Polyester resin with Wax built in would some 36 Grit paper be good to ruff it up so I can continue with my layers

    Thanks

    You got it....use the un-waxed resin for any layers other than your last. It doesn't cost much more or can be cheaper than the "bondo" gallons you can get at Lowes or Home Depot that alot of people use depending on where you get it from. Any fiberglass supply houses can supply you with what you need. Then use the normal "waxed" resin for your final coat before sanding.

    To me it's crazy to spend alot of time in between coats sanding the waxed resin just to apply another coat.

    I always do just one layer at a time. The thicker you make the curing layers the hotter it will get and you can have distortion or warpage issues.

  7. i tried it and looks like i have to pre drill the hole bigger than the screw it self because the screw doesn't seem to bite in the plexi(and its making a bad sound as if it was cracking).

    i'm thinking of just using a silicone caulk to seal it up tight.

    the edges will be hidden because i'll put another beauty panel to cover it up.

    btw i used a normal drill bit and it seemed to work fine no problems at all.

    i also used a normal counter sink bit and it worked.

    Yeah, you want the holes to bigger than the OD of the screws your using. You don't want to be screwing into the plexi. Regular drills work fine on it the first time through, if the holes need to be opened up, when you try to re-drill the hole the drill will grab and might crack the plexi or your wrist...whatever one is weaker... :rofl:

  8. OK, so i would like to here what you guys consider your favorite audio brand. NOT which is the loudest or the most powerful, but what you have had the best experience with or has sentimental value to you or whatever.

    My favorite is Pioneer and Fosgate. Pioneer because i can setup even there lowest end deck to my liking, and it was one of my first deck. Fosgate because no matter what i put them through they never crap out on me. Plus there small but with balls.

    Remember i haven't tried every brand out there and im pretty sure that my opinion will change down the road, but so far these have been very faithful products.

    Headunit/source: Always been a Pioneer fan, had Alpine & Eclipse units in the past but always end up back with a Pioneer unit.

    Amps: Soundstream. Specifically Oldschool first gen Tarantula series. I've had many others in the past but these are by far my favorite. Others include: Alpine, Pioneer, Kicker, Jbl, Xtant & Macintosh.

    Subs: Such a wide range of great subs it's really hard to choose a favorite. Right now going with Soundstream Reference R1-15's

    Speakers: Same responce as with the subs.

    Processors: Audiocontrol...'nuff said.

    Wire/cable: Tsunami

    Interconnects: Monster Cable

    Power distro: Whoever has what I need, as long as it's not crap.

    Sound Control: Second Skin

    Batteries: XS or Kinetik...both are great in my opinion. :aggressive:

  9. Well I got that I was more or less curious to if it had higher voltage (larger wire) would make a diffrence AT ALL. But I assume not if its only coming from the h/u lol

    Just think of it as if you were connecting a relay. Same thing here. When the amp recieves the 12V from the head unit, it closes the internal circuit to power on the amp. Voltage/current is usually a non issue as long as it recieves enough to cycle, it will be fine.

    As mentioned above, if you try to power on to many amps, the current demands of the amps will excede that of what the H/U is capable of putting out so you will need power a relay from the remote wire to send a higher current to the amps. :D

  10. I have a friend who has a very unique request. He has a G Wagon and needs his cargo space. So I thought about the Rodeo rear speakers which are mounted on the roof. We are working with two 8" shallow pioneers. Obviously not trying to knock pictures off the walls. Any suggestions?

    It can be done if the application is right for it. I am mounting 16 15" Soundstream R1 subs in the roof of my truck...haha! I was able to do it with my truck so I figured why not...I had never seen it done before and neither had anyone else I talked to about it.

    If your creative enough to be able to pull it off I say go for it.

    Good luck!

  11. The XXX6500's and 10k's are always smoking because people run them on 12/14.4v systems. They are designed around having 16v power, running them on 12v is always going to be pushing them, you're pulling way too much current through the power supply section compared to what they are designed for.

    I was thinking the same thing but I'm not one to make suggestions about others not operating the gear they have properly because you jusy never know.

  12. Hmmm.... Well idk what to do, Ive been lookin @ RD Audio 7500.1's

    I can get one for $1k Shipped... Im thinking Of maybe just 2 of these...

    But i just dont know how much i can get a 2nd one for... I dont wanna Buy this one and get screwd paying like $2k for the next...

    I don't know what else to teel you other than calling or e-mailing Grizz and see if he has any info as to why all these XXX amps are failing. It could something very simple and they have already corrected the problem.

  13. I wish This amp was in more hands....

    I dont wanna Shell out the Cash for Some BIG HEAVY PILE OF SHIT!

    I Smoked a SS XXX10k @ AR And I seen 2 XXX6500's Smoke the same Day!

    Im gonna Be Beating the Hell Outa this amp i just wish Somebody Knew something about them...

    WELL DO YOU GUYS THINK I CAN SEE 10KRMS+ Outa this On my Electrical...?

    I wouldn't worry about it. Grizz will take care of you 100% if you should have an issue with it. Anytime I have an issue with any of my SS gear, which is hardly ever by the way, Grizz swaps it out no questions asked.

    He definatly stands behind us Team Soundstream guys and is more than willing to go to bat with the company owners if he feels it is needed.

    Anyway, I would talk to him and express your concerns and see what he can tell you. :aggressive:

  14. So when i acquired my jl 12w7 my buddy had a box for it built so he gave me that with it when i traded him and i did the measurements out on it yesterday and i used the lxhxw / 1728 to get the cubes of the box and it came out to 2.4 in a sealed box, jl reccomends 1.375 after sub displacement am i losing alot by having such a big box cuz it sounds decent for still having 8 seats in a durango but would like to go louder as i plan to put a second 12w7 in by summer but for now i was just wondering if cutting the height on my box and resealing it closer to the jl reccomendation would help any. any input on this would be great seeing as im pretty much a noob to this. thx :unsure:

    I try to keep my enclosures within +/- 10% of the reccomended enclosure volume for sealed specs. I would think that because of the enclosure being over 1 cube larger than reccomemded that it is not playing to it's full potential and be extra "boomy" sounding.

    I would suggest that before you start cutting up the enclosure that you just temporaraly add some wood inside to reduce the air space and see what it does for you output. 1 cube is alot of space to fill up but it should give you a good idea as to what's up.

  15. heh.. Its not bad for being owned by the same company that owns ferhinhite, lagacy, jensen, prymid, boss, lanzar, and pyle...

    Honestly youd be better off going with something else like hifonics.

    Hey Caddy,

    I'm not sure where you are getting that info from but it is way off.

    Epsilon Electronics is the parent company and they own:

    SOUNDSTREAM

    PRECISION POWER

    FARENHEIT ELITE

    POWER ACOUSTIK

    SPL - KOLE

    The new products are 1000% better than they were after the buy out years ago due to staff changes etc. A lot of people knock SS because of their knowledge of what was years ago and are unaware of what is going on in the company today.

  16. For running a car audio setup in your room. Instead of using batteries/car chargers/PSU's.

    Couldn't you put a real car alternator in your room and whip a little device together that spins a belt at 2krpm to spin the alternator pulley.

    Then from there, run your normal + wires and ground's to the amplifier.

    Thats a dumb theory...but it could work couldnt it? just throwing ideas out there

    It is a 3 to 1 ratio that is needed. Typical engine RPM for alternator specs are measured at 2000 RPM as this is typical driving RPM in most vehicles. So, for max output from your alternator at the 3 to 1 ratio, the alternator needs to spin at 6000 RPM.

    In order to get this to work to full potential, you would need a 10 HP electric motor which would be 3 phase. Not worth the time or money involved. Just buy a decent 12 power supply instead. It is a better way to go than a battery charger.

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