Team_DC-Derrick
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Posts posted by Team_DC-Derrick
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your not just paying for the name for DC, most of DCs alts do tons of power at idle speed, and even more at the normal reved speed..
mechman
DC
Ohio gen
Ive never seen singer alts, but heard some good storys about his..
they are expensive for a reason LOL, you get what you pay for in this business man, its worth it to not cheap out on something that might not work
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Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk Junk
I like this
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i would say no, the threads made about them on this site had turned me far away from them, search for powerbastards on here, will yield some interesting results
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basically anyone who goes out and promotes the product, i dont compete but im on team dc...
but when i go to shows, i give one hell of a demo day...
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it detects both, it will detect distortion before clipping..
clip light on bass knobs are notoriously inaccurate... i really wish people wouldnt think thats a true clip light, the only way to make sure its not clipping is by the DD1 or a big oscope
if the DD 1 says its not clipping/distorting, than its not..
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fuck him.. and your parents... i would just tell him hes walking from now on because its MY car, and if he doesnt like it, ill call the cops and report it stolen...
and then tell the parents if they dont like that decision, than they need to step up and buy him a car.. hands down..
hell, start taking their car, and leave a note saying you needed the car, every day and be gone ALLLLLL day, and dont answer the cell
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They do not ask $500 bucks for a 500 rms sub. There mojo 15 (1750 rms) run for about $550. And the new C3 15s (800 rms) are about $320 each
google showed otherwise, and the only store in my area shows differently as well.. right on par with google shopping pricing...
but, hey, if you can get a 800 rms sub for 320, more power to you LOL
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probably because they want 500$ for a 500rms mojo, when you can get a 1500-2000 rms woofer for right around the same price...
not saying they aint bad, but i look at them like i look at RF/JL and other higher end mainstream stuff, they can price what they want, because of their name...
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will you have these in stock at your shop when i roll out there when i get home?
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goes to show that ya dont need dc aq fi ssa high dollar to go big...
and a broken clock is still right twice a day. Doesn't mean that Sony is any good, really. I bet if the same dollar amount was spent on AQ with the same quality of install, it'd be louder.
EDIT: I mean no disrespect to OKI by the way. He has mad skills and I'm sure that sony works for him... The man's got his reasons i'm sure.
I will add, I think all builds are different, with different goals... If you spent the same amount of money on subs as he did for his, from a better brand, AQ DC FI AA IA or sundown, you would get alot less. with that being said, if you had more funds, of course it would be louder depending on the setup...
BUT, there is a certain point at which those sony subs can only get up to before they will ultimately fail, and that is sure as hell alot closer to the rated power than those of the other brands i mentioned.
Oki is probably running under RMS which those are the 1200 rms ones i believe, the TRUE 1200 rms subs, not the 20$ ones from walmart..
But for dollar to dollar, you would be quieter with a better brand, than what he has here..
IN MY OPINION.. thats what i believe
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this post was back in 2007 bro.... lol
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the weight of the sub/size of the mag....
thats really it
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i am confused i heard music is more efficient than tones
tones will do more power, all day every day... why do you think DB drag cars use straight tones to burp LOL..
you dont burp on music, unless your org is required, tones will always be louder
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So i'm guessing Sundown or DC will do ~2000wrms on music and ~1200-1300 on tone after rise?
you got it backwards, it will do more power on tones than music
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I just enjoy loud music, i dont even compete
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musical rise will fluctuate between different frequencys, your 43hz note might be at 2.8 ohms, where at 30hz note might be 16ohms...
you shouldnt be worried about clamped power if you are going for music, you really need to worry about it when you are doing straight tones
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I personally would keep the memphis and buy the MX LOL, if you have the funds..
only because quadcoil mojos are kinda rare now... MXs arnt
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I actually have that thing grounded 7 times, 1 per batt, and 3 at the very end of it, on the opposite side of the positive
and when you run the power wire from the busbar to the amp, ground it on the opposite side of where your grounds are, and put the power on the opposite side of where the powers are..
if that helps
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busbars
and fuse block area
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well a bus bar and a fuse block is different, fuse blocks have wire going to them, busbars are connected to the battery terminals... you still want a fuse block even with a busbar
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well, i dont know if this helps, but lvl 5s are roughly 5.5 cubes ported recommended...
coming straight from rusty...
so i could see that being a decent box, and if your buddy is any good with 4th orders, i would atleast try it, worst that can happen is that you just get a bigger one, right?
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i vote 6 15s
41 ~ sq inch more of cone area, and 2 more motors for more motor force....
cone area + motorforce = king for nasty hairtricks...
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if the sub cant take the rms right out of the box, its garbage
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did that 95,000w make it out to columbus ohio on the skid?
LOL, you know what im talking about
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Yahoo covering bass?
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
just throwing it out there, if you dont like my decent hobby, it could be tons worse, also told tons of people that i could get guns and go around killing people and be a serial killer, would they like that better?
if they are going to be fucking stupid, i will too, and ill win, because ill go beyond their level of comprehension and smack the shit out of them with experience