S1R-BLUNTZWORTH

hahaha is that your lizard? I'm not actually building a permanent enclosure in the trunk, it will be 8cuft and still removable So you're saying I should go with the smaller port in between woofers(option "A" up top)? Thanks, Josh

Okay, I'll rephrase. Which would be BETTER? thanks, and mom says no cookies before bed too..

car is a vw jetta. subs will be most likely facing forward into cabin. took rear deck speakers out and there's also a few inches of space along the side of the speaker to pass air through with the seats down.

Enclosure net volume is 8.0cuft, but displacement after 2 15" AQ hdc3's it's 7.5cuft- Please tell me which will have more bass sounds. A: Undersized port(79 sq in.), 5.25"width x 15"height, on the front of box in between the woofers OR B: Recommended sized port(120 sq in.), being 8"width x 15"height, but on the side or rear of the box Thanks, Josh

High voltage can pass through thin gauge wires. High amperage cannot. think about this: have you ever seen the tiny gauge you're house electrical outlets are? they're pretty thin, but still are able to carry a total output of roughly 1500-2000 watts. That's because @ 120volts, it only requires 15amps to equal 1800watts. When using only 12volts, it takes 150amps to produce 1800 watts. as you may already know, volts x amps = power(watts)

I'm not fan MTX fan by any means... But their "top" offerings arent bad IMO. I have 2 8500 subs, rated @ 500 watts rms each. They have been eating 850-900wrms each for some time now. No smelly coils, no blowouts, just way underrated I seriously thought I would blow them to hell on the first "bump session" with my t1500-1bd(running @ 1ohm 1800wrms) They take almost DOUBLE their rated power!

haha im not that technical, i dont have a multi-meter to set gains . But I do have a handy little voltage meter that plugs into the cigarette/asscessory plug, and it never really drops below 12.5 volts. I just upgraded my stock 90a alt to a 120 amp alternator, but I will still need a battery or two in the trunk i think after getting the other amp. I hope I dont have to build a wall or smthg like that if I go with 18"'s.. BTW I found the DC website finally and it looks like the Level 4 XL's would be optimal for these amps(i didnt see pricing sheet though..). I didn't realize before how small of selection I would have regarding subs, when dealing with 1500wrms per speaker. The big name brands' "top shelf" subs are only rated 1000wrms . Im a noob, I hope I can buy an enclosure and dont have to build one or a wall...

i cant find out where to buy them

the car is a 1996 volkswagon Jetta. I either want 15's or 18's. Would 18"'s move a whole lot more air that 15"'s?(wind tunnel effect would be cool) But I also dont want to hurt the wallet too bad.... but I heard FI's are inefficient(esp 18"'s), i heard its like the first 500w rms does absolutely nothing to them and is wasted due to the low speaker sensitivity. The mtx 8500's (12's) I have are rated at 92db sensitivity, which is pretty good, but they'll never eat 3000 or 2500watts rms lol @banginAltima : you are probably right. maybe I should run them @ 2ohm which would result in roughly 1000-1200 w rms. The 1 t1500-1bd I currently have is running @ 1 ohm, and gets very HOT!

haha they're so tiny and cute that i almost forget they're pushing some watts lol. But seriously- compared to most systems here on the forum, the t1500-1bd's are just little toys hehe BTW thanks for the suggestions. which of those woofers is most "budget minded"

Ok- question here.. I have a t1500-1bd, and will be ordering my second t1500-1bd in a couple of weeks. are there any EFFICIENT subs that would match roughly 1500-1700watts rms each, so I can run each sub to its own t1500-1bd? I'm just guessing, but i would NOT want to go with the BTL's if i'm only doing 1500 watts rms per sub, right? i just want to have efficient subs so i can get the most SPL out of my little fosgate amps any suggestions for some subs that would work for this setup? i dont know shite lol.. thx all

he must disable 2 of the cores to get "real" o/c'ing potential. Quad cores dont o/c well unless you do this... BTW for the next couple years or so until more games utilize more than 2 cores, clockspeed > cores nice mobo man

ROFL @ the end !!!!!1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIU6a4C_REs

probably replacing the alternator with a higher output will fix the clipping... i was having amp clipping and lights dimming, car stalling etc. with my t1500-1bd amp I had just put in, and ended up having to upgrade to a more powerful alt. I didn't need to get a super powerful one, but a 120 amp(original was only 70amps) alternator just barely cut the mustard for my setup. No more amp clipping or car stalling in the middle of the road, yay! alternator was only $140 at checker auto parts, best damn $ investment for insufficient power. that is, if you replace it yourself