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Fish Chris

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Posts posted by Fish Chris

  1. Much thanks guys :)

    Vids you asked ? Well, I might need to shoot 1 huh ? The level indicators on the Power 1000 do look pretty cool when it's running. What's really cool, is that I can look right over my right shoulder, even when driving, and totally see if I'm clipping any of the 5ch at any time. Not that I worry about a little red flicker every now and again.... But say I'm on a long road trip, and I just want it to be as ultra-clean as possible, I'll watch my clip indicators, and back off until I see no red flickers at all. Still decently loud, but also, as clean as my setup can be ;)

    Lotsa' fun :)

    Now I'm just anxious to get that other pair of mid-bass drivers, + another set of component mid/highs going :)

    Peace,

    Fish

  2. I thought it came out really clean. Kinda patting myself on the back right now ;) LOL

    The box is 7.51 cubes net, and tuned to 34.82 hz (by Chris T's program, and confirmed by the old port tuning nomogram ;)) I will be building my port extensions in the next week. It's going to be fun to drop the tuning down, and play some ultra-deep, techno bass. I mean, that stuff sounds pretty darn good right now, but I'm hoping it will pump up the ultra-lows even better !

    I'm sure their are a TON of "louder" sub setups posted on here..... probably even some with just a couple 12"s... or heck, even just one 12" ! But I have to say, these Dayton HO's are the fastest, tightest, most musical 15"s I've ever heard.... and in a ported box no less !

    Oh, and hey, I made a post asking about taking my 8" mid-bass drivers out of some small, sealed boxes I had, and putting them in my rear floor (free-air)...... Well I did it, and they sound freaking great now too :) Still, I plan to add two more, right in front of each of these.

    Oh, and I'm running Polk Audio mid/high components in the front..... but will be adding another pair of those, in custom pods on my dash corners, as well.

    Anyway, enough of my rambling...

    Oh, this is what it looked like last week :) LOL

    149799b0.jpg

    Then this....

    1509b790.jpg

    BTW, I added a brace from top to bottom center, and another from end to end, before sealing it up.

    And finally, this :)

    15157410.jpg

    15257410.jpg

    Anyway, again, not an SPL kind of system..... and not exactly an all out SQ system either.... But rather, a "wannabe SQL" setup :) Certainly enough sound for a daily driver..... and long range fishing trips :)

    Peace,

    Fish

  3. Mr Skippy, okay, I'm a dummy.... What's the difference ? I've always just used the term free air, to describe any speaker not in a box.

    Anyway, I just mounted them in the portion of floor, this side, of my old box, in this picture....

    119602530.jpg

    I'm definately going to stuff the whole underside of the open space there, and was even thinking about building a little 4" carpeted wall in the front of that open space.... but it would be more for looks, as it still won't be exactly air tight.

    So anyway, short of building a complete surrounded backing (putting them back in a box) I am trying to seperate the air under the false floor, and in the cab, as much as possible....

    Soff, yea, about the power handling, that's what I've heard. I hope I don't blow them any time soon, as in the near future, I hope to be adding two more 8" mid-bass drivers, as 1) I totally have enough power for them, and 2) I purposely left enough space in my rear open floor....

    Peace,

    Fish

    I'm confused, are you talking about free air or IB?

  4. Bump

    Nobody ?

    Surely a few of you must have some 8"s, and maybe even 10" mid-bass drivers squeezed into your bad-a$$ door builds ? These are probably free air, huh ? Or are some of these actually "sealed" enclosure built into the doors ? {as if fiberglass door builds are not a major PITA in the first place !}

    Well, if nobody wants to take a shot at it, I'll report my finding in a couple days, as I just took my 8"s out of their cozy little sealed enclosures, and will be mounting them into my rear, false floor today.....

    Peace,

    Fish

    Up until now, I've had my 8" mid-bass drivers in separate, little 1/2 cube sealed boxes. I've had them grabbing a pretty narrow range.... from about 80hz to 250hz.

    With my new sub setup, I had to dis those little separate boxes, and mount the 8" mid-bass drivers right into my rear false floor. After I took one of the 8"s out of the sealed box, I tapped the cone with my finger, and of course it jumped / moved twice as far, as the other one still in the floor (captain obvious, right?) .... so anyway, they will be somewhat separated from front to rear, but certainly not sealed.

    My question is, what sound difference should I expect from my little 8" mid-bass drivers mounted free air, vs. sealed ??? Louder ? Any potential problems ? Will the power handling be less ? I'm a little concerned about that, as these are pretty light little mid0bass drivers (not 8" sub woofers) that are only rated for like 80wts RMS, and I'm already giving them about 110 wts, as it is.... but again, remember I'm not asking much of a frequency range from them, so this should help, huh ?

    Your thoughts ?

    Thanks,

    Fish

  5. Up until now, I've had my 8" mid-bass drivers in separate, little 1/2 cube sealed boxes. I've had them grabbing a pretty narrow range.... from about 80hz to 250hz.

    With my new sub setup, I had to dis those little separate boxes, and mount the 8" mid-bass drivers right into my rear false floor. After I took one of the 8"s out of the sealed box, I tapped the cone with my finger, and of course it jumped / moved twice as far, as the other one still in the floor (captain obvious, right?) .... so anyway, they will be somewhat separated from front to rear, but certainly not sealed.

    My question is, what sound difference should I expect from my little 8" mid-bass drivers mounted free air, vs. sealed ??? Louder ? Any potential problems ? Will the power handling be less ? I'm a little concerned about that, as these are pretty light little mid0bass drivers (not 8" sub woofers) that are only rated for like 80wts RMS, and I'm already giving them about 110 wts, as it is.... but again, remember I'm not asking much of a frequency range from them, so this should help, huh ?

    Your thoughts ?

    Thanks,

    Fish

  6. So what was wrong with that box ? :) LOL

    Seriously, that thing looks like some of the stuff I've snagged with my anchor, and pulled up from the bottom of a lake ! :) LOL

    Curious what the inside of her car looks like ?

    Peace,

    Fish

    Neighbor came over and asked me if I could rebuild him a box for his niece. It's for a small 10" POS sub, but she likes it.

    She wants the enclosure exactly the same as the original, but better made. Whatever...

    My question is, how much should I charge her? I haven't made anything for other people for a while so I have no idea where the prices are at this point.

    Here is the enclosure in question (yep, particle board).

    TPhoto_00006.jpg

    So what you charge to remake this?

  7. I can totally work......

    It just needs to be crossed over correctly, so that the 15"s are grabbind say 20-45hz, then like four 10"s grabbing 45-90..... then (in a really crazy setup) a person might run eight 8"s grabbing from 90-250hz....then your mids, then your highs.... you could even run some super high frequency tweeters beyond that.

    So basically, it's just like a common 3 way system, but taken a level or two beyond, to a 4 or 5 way system.

    Pretty hard core x-over and sound proccessing to do it right, but sure, it can work very well actually.

    Fish

    PS, Where you would run into different sized subs sounding like garbage, would be if they were "trying" to play the same exact frequencies. A cancellation nightmare !

    *I'm not sure I'm posting this in the right place. Please move the thread if it's not in the right place.*

    I've always had thoughts about mixing two different subwoofers sizes into the same system. I have always wondered why nobody does that, would it sound bad; or not mix well? I've always wanted two level 5 15's and 2 DD 10s, mainly because I thought who doesn't love the body rumbling hit of a 15? But on the other hand I love the car rattling hit of the 10s. Why not combine the best of both worlds to make an even better experience. I've never heard a system like this in person, or sat in the car with it for that matter. So could you guys enlighten me as to why nobody i've seen has mixed sized woofers in there build?

  8. Hey gu, do you have the old RF Power 1000 chromed 5 ch. like mine ? or another RF 1000 ? Just curious.

    But yea, about those Fmods, they look totally simple to use, and cheap enough, but I've not read much good about them.... One reviewer said they hurt sound quality, and 3 said they didn't do anything, and that was out of the 4 reviews I was able to find :( {note; when somebody says "they didn't do anything", you have to stop and consider that maybe 98% of the time, > they did not have anything to do, because they were not being sent anything less than 20hz ! I know these are really more like a little insurance "in case" they get sent something too low.... either by recording error, interference, etc......

    But still.....

    Hmmmmm.... I hate vague crap like this.

    Fish

    http://store.hlabs.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=13

    Wouldnt sugestion tuning that low :shrug:

    NDMustang Suggested that ^^^^^^^^

    yup that what he suggested iget for my RF1000.

  9. Nope, don't ride a bike.... Just a car, truck, or boat :)

    Well, I'm just saying that the 28hz cutoff of my infrasonic filter is too high ! I wish it were either fully adjustable... or 20hz. I've been told by the techs, that my subs are pretty good to about 24hz.... So, I'd like it to be tuned to 25hz (with the extensions added) and the IF to be set at about 23 or 24hz.

    Again, I have a bunch techno tracks with plenty of mid 20's bass ! I don't want to be filtering out "anything" that was intentionally recorded !

    X-overs and such seem like a pretty costly way to go.

    And I haven't found many revies on the Fmod idea posted above, but one that I found was negative :(

    Hmmm...

    Peace,

    Fish

    LoL, you look like my old Machine Shop teacher. Do you ride a motorcycle by any chance? LoL

    Are you saying you want to disable the infrasonic filter, or override it or what?

    You could find a way to use an equalizer to boost the 20hz range ONLY. Key point is ONLY that range so that when your amp tries to filter it, the input voltage is higher so when it filters it, it's like the filter isn't there.

    You get what I'm saying, or no?

  10. Scottish, right on. Sounds like we have pretty similar sound system tastes.... I guess they call it SQL. I wouldn't neccessarily want the loudest system on the planet..... nor the cleanest system on the planet.... but rather, somewhere in between :)

    Going to go watch some more of your vids now :)

    Peace,

    Fish

    Thanks for the compliments bro. It's a work in progress. The center channel still needs to be shaped and fiberglassed. I may add 2 more of the 4" to strengthen the center even more. It will really start to shine once I get a 3sixty or a ms8. With that being said a wall is in the design phase for 4 18" on around 1500 watts. Thats up the road a piece though. We had a flood and it ruined alot of my stuff.

    If you are in the chicago area I'd be more than happy to give you a demo.

  11. Steve ! I was wondering when you were going to realize this was the same ol' Fish Chris posting again lately :) Well... kind of the same ol'... but kinda' not.

    Remember me 2 years ago ?

    10042e40.jpg

    1022c130.jpg

    Well, I went and got onto this health and fitness kick.... lost about 95 lbs of fat, and put on about 25 lbs of muscle (LONG ways to go) but I look and feel like a different person :)

    This is me now...

    1187b4e0.jpg

    And trying to look buffed... Hey ! Don't laugh ! :) Just give me 3 more years.

    11f936f0.jpg

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    Anyway, heck yea ! I'd LOVE to come by the shop one of these days really soon ! Would love to see / hear the new Ho, and whatever else you got going on.

    Take good care :)

    Peace,

    Fish

    [THREADJACK:]

    wusssup Fish-Chris!! long time no see! :drinks:

    when you coming back to Sacramento? come on by the shop some day! Things are slightly different then they were when i saw you last!

    [/Threadjack]

  12. Blown, nobody asked ! :) LOL But besides all that, I was still not sure that turning it off would be a smart thing to do. Those little in-line filters look too easy though :)

    Peace,

    Fish

    You never said you could turn it off. Thats why we are giving different answers. Then yes turn it off and add an external filter and place it where you like. Or not at all

  13. WINN ! FTW :) LOL

    That is exactly the type of easy fix I was hoping for ! $30 too ! Of course I will have to do a little research and look for a few reviews on them.... But probably a done deal !

    Very cool !

    Thanks :)

    PS, I think "loud bass" is cool.... As long as it's loud "below 30hz" ;)

    http://store.hlabs.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=13

    Wouldnt sugestion tuning that low :shrug:

    NDMustang Suggested that ^^^^^^^^

  14. Okay, before we go any farther, yes, I can turn off the infrasonic sub filter on my amp.... which of course leads to the qestion > How important is an infrasonic filter, in the first place ?

    Next: To answer the question, "Why tune so low" ? Well, if I was locked into a sitution where I could only have one tuned port frequency, no, I would not want to tune that low, at the great cost of the majority of the rest of my music sounding crappy... or leastwise, not near as good as it would if it were tuned to say, 35hz"....

    However, with my current design, my box "will be tuned to 35hz most of the time"..... It's just that it will also be easily adjustable, by way of port extenders, to drop it down to 25hz or so, when I want to play some of my really deep bass techno stuff. I actually have quite a bit of content that hits in the mid 20's, with some notes rolling off below 20hz.... I LOVE the way that kind of bass "feels" :)

    Hmmmm.....

    Somebody asked about my gear ? Well, not exactly high excursion SPL type of subs.... But they are a pair Dayton HO 15"s. Will be giving them 965 wts RMS, and they will be in an optimum sized box for SQ, and hopefully, deep bass.... 7.5 cu ft net, for the pair.

    Fish

  15. Okay, so with my newest box build, it will have adjustable tuning, and I was thinking I would tune the lower tune for 25hz.....

    Then, I just read that my Power 1000 5 ch amp, has > Infrasonic filter: 28Hz fixed.... 28hz ? WTF ? I could see maybe 20hz.... or heck, even as high as 24hz... but 28 ??? :(

    So, is their some other way I could protect my subs from say 20hz and down, while just turning the built in infrasonic filter "off" ??? (A reasonable, inexpensive way of course).

    I was really hoping for a low frequency beast.... and the "funnest part" is 24hz to 28hz ! The last thing I want, is to filter that out !!!! Urgggg...

    Fish

  16. Hey Scottish, thank you for the reply.

    I don't think I'm ready for horns just yet. I was really asking about them more out of curiosity... thinking out loud I guess :)

    But hey now, I checked out your vids, and they are a welcome break from X# of huge subs, and a bazillion watts :) {disclaimer: Yes, I also enjoy X# of huge subs, and a bazillion watts.... but sometimes I actually like to listen to music too :))

    Anyway, that looks like a really "fun" system. I love your center stage setup, as well as your 10" mid-bass drivers in the doors. I bet that sounds just about as "musical" as it could possibly get !

    I'd love to hear it..... But then again, it probably make mine sound like $#!+ :) LOL

    Peace,

    Fish

    Horns are awesome but need equaliztion. They also have incredible sensitivity. This means they will get loud on relatively low wattage. You will need an exit horn or waveguide for most of them, and they all effect freq. response in different ways, that means research to find the right one. As fast as getting lows from them I have seen a couple get down to 500 but those were 2” horns and the lenses were gigantic and prohibitively expensive.

    If you plan on using these as a wideband midrange you'll need some ribbons or planars to match the output.

    Pyle makes good compression drivers but I would reccomend a selenium d220ti. They are only two dollars more.

    Tell us more about your current system and future plans. Unless you really want them im sure we can help you find a two way system that can give you the output you want.

  17. Couple things come to mind...

    First off, why bother with an Areoport. ABS or PVC pipe works exactly the same. You can even put a flared end on it. I used a 6" PVC port for my two 12"s in this box, and to flare the end, I simply shoved it down on top of a bowling ball, after heating the edge with a propane torch. Came out fantastic :)

    119702530.jpg

    The other thing is, a port does not have to be completely "inside" of the box. It can protrude out a little, a lot, or even be completely "outside" of the box. It will still work exactly the same.... Only difference is that then it won't steal airspace from your enclosure (or if part way out, it won't steal as much).

    My 6" port protrudes about 6" from my box, to give proper clearance on the end inside the box.

    Oh BTW, my latest box (build in progress) will be 7.5 cu ft net, and will have three 6" diameter ports. In "normal music tuning mode" {tuned to 35 or 37hz} the ports will protrude only about 2" from the box > But this is so I will be able attach 20" extensions all out side the box, and drop my tuning from 37hz, to 25hz, at any time, in one minute flat ;) whenever I get into a super deep, techno bass kind of mood :)

    Peace,

    Fish

    PS, My best advice is, start thinking a little more "outside of the box" :) pun intended...

  18. It's been a long time since I looked at them, but I was thinking they are super-loud, yet super clean at the same time.... like loud enough to actually keep up with some of the super-subwoofer systems we like. And I think they get pretty low.... close to true mid-bass...

    But crappy for highs ? So one would still need like 8.... er, 80 seperate tweets to keep up with all the subs, and the horns.... Correct me if I'm wrong on any of this.

    Who can tell me more ?

    Fish

    PS, These probably suck... but just as an example > http://cgi.ebay.com/PYLE-8-OHM-600w-TITANIUM-MIDRANGE-HORN-DRIVER-NEW-2011-/200579543933

    Check that sensitivity ! ....along with being able to take 300 wts RMS

  19. Their conversions start out at $80K, and go up from there, depending on how crazy you want to get with the extras. I'm sure the 800hp motor option would add a good chunk.... But how bad would that be ? This body... with Corvette handling and control, and 800 hp's !

    Peace,

    Fish

    I never looked them up? How much are they? I HAVE looked up the entire rolling assembly for a C6 corvette and they range from about 10K-20K depending on how many miles.

  20. Right on :)

    Believe it or not, while surfing around looking for photos and info on it, I actually saw a good handful of people totally slamming on it. Of course I wouldn't give a rats a$$ what some internet goofball thought about it...

    Like I say, if I could afford one, I'd have had it yesterday ! :)

    BTW, their are some bad a$$ large JPG's of it on Google photos. Makes a very cool desktop ;)

    Peace,

    Fish

  21. 789 N2A

    Basically all custom carbon fiber body parts, the design taken from 57, 58, and 59 Chevy's, combined, and slapped on top of a Corvette C6 chassis.

    I always liked Corvettes, from the standpoint that they are technologically amazing vehicles.... but the thing that sucks about Vettes is, everywhere you turn, theres another Vette.... yahhhnnnn.....

    A guy wouldn't have that problem with a 789 ;)

    2007-n2a-Motors-789-Front-Angle-1024x768.jpg

    n2a-789-03.jpg

    n2a-789-04.jpg

    Peace,

    Fish

  22. the biggest fishi get to go for are usually flatheads, personal best (this year/life) of 45" 37bs

    Dude ! That's bad-a$$ ! I'm envious ! I love fishing for big kitties too, unfortunately we don't have Flatheads or Blues. We do have some big Channel cats though :)

    This is my PB of 30.2 lbs....

    649084a0.jpg

    Hey and check this out, on this same trip, my buddy and I caught 55 of them for a total weight (weighed every one of them on a digital scale, and recorded the weights) of 775 lbs ! Not bad for a couple guys using micro-light gear, huh ?

    On the trip before that, my biggest was only 27.8 lbs... but me and one friend caught 71 of them for 935 lbs (weighed) and another 500 lbs (not weighed) of Carp, + at least 65 lbs of smaller Mud cats, and White cats in one 14 hour trip. So that made about 1500 lbs of fish between the two of us ! {note: You know how you might hear somebody say, "Dude ! We caught a ton of fish" ! ..... uh.... well, I guess we suck. We only caught 3/4's of a ton ;) LOL By the end of the trip, we felt like our arms were going to fall off :) LOL

    Anyway, go stick a monster Flathead for me ! :)

    Peace,

    Fish

    haha i get a good amount of fishing done, unfortunately living in ohio where i do unless i go to erie the biggest fishi get to go for are usually flatheads, personal best (this year/life) of 45" 37bs

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