Fish Chris

I know the Torres calculator is a popular one, but I'm not sure how to read it. I usually just do all of this with a piece of scratch paper and my calculator. I used this one earlier today (so I could post pictures for him) and it worked very well. You might check this one out.... https://subbox.pro/en/design/?bt=2&bw=1016&bh=457.2&bv=203.9&mt=19&fp=1&sq=2&ss=15&cd=354.3&md=219.7&sv=3.4&so=-76.2&sd=20&sb=75&sn=EVL&pt=4&pq=1&rf=31&pd=271.98&pw=2&pa=580.68&pp=100

Hey Taxed1, I took care of that for you. I did leave a little extra for height and width, and your depth (the parameter that the calculator adjusts for you) was considerably shallower, to give you more space. Here are screen shots of everything you would need. Personally speaking, I'd probably add a little depth, to account for bracing, which I would definitely add to the single thickness (3/4") panels. But there are so many ways to do this, that is going to be up to you. If we discuss what your going to do here, I can tell you how much extra to add to the depth. But you can add quite a bit of bracing with only maybe 1" extra depth. Anyway, I'd be super confident in this design. Exactly what Skar calls for. Oh....... but would you consider yourself more of a "LOUD" bass guy ? ...or a DEEP bass guy ? Skar recommends a 31 hz tuning.... which is pretty darn low (and would feel really good ) ....but if you lean towards more loud and obnoxious (:) lol) you could tune it to say 34 or 35 for a few extra dB's, but at a small cost to depth, and air movement. This program is pretty cool, and free. It has a few little things that bug me, but generally speaking, it works well, and is pretty straight forward..... in case you want to play with it yourself. https://subbox.pro/en/design/?bt=2&bw=1016&bh=457.2&bv=203.9&mt=19&fp=1&sq=2&ss=15&cd=354.3&md=219.7&sv=3.4&so=-76.2&sd=20&sb=75&sn=EVL&pt=4&pq=1&rf=31&pd=271.98&pw=2&pa=580.68&pp=100 PS, No matter what you decide, I highly recommend that you make a cardboard mock up of the exact same size as the plans call for, to make absolutely sure it will go in, and fit well, and clear your trunk hinges and such BEFORE committing. Oh, also, on those board cuts that end in .74.... .75 is close enough Don't want to screw the lumbar yard guys all up lol PPS, Important ! For whatever dumb reason, it would not let me add a double thick baffle ? But if you go with this plan, you would need one extra board of 40" x 18" (not 40 x 16.5... as it will lay over the whole front, including the joints at the top and bottom) I think if you give this thing 2500 or 3000 watts, it will slap

Hey Giga, that's interesting that "at least in this video, for this particular setup" the impedance rise was most significant at 49 hz.... which is where a lot of car audio sub woofer setups have the most cabin gain anyway.... or to put it another way, where the setup doesn't need much help. So if your amp was going to be getting a much higher resistance, leading to way less output, I guess that would be the best frequency for this to happen at. It also seems fortunate that by the time it got down really low, the impedance had fallen back off significantly, as that's where one really needs maximum wattage. Not sure how consistent this is from system to system, but at least in this case, that seemed to work out pretty well. Edit; An interesting thought just crossed my mind..... I wonder if the cabin gain peak is actually "causing" that increased resistance ???

So anyway, yea, just put it in 5.25 cubes, and give it a 4 x 20 x 32.5 inch vent, BAM Easy Peasy. And that thing will slam too ! You could make it obnoxiously loud, by increasing your tuning up to like 40 or 45 hz (shortening the port) but it would not dig quite as deep, or be very musical. OR, you can go the other direction, and tune it around 30 hz (like I did with my 18" ZVX, and you will lose a couple dB's, but it will dig crazy deep, and sound super musical. Always trade offs. You just have to deiced what matters most to you.

First one I've ever built, and the best sounding, deepest digging I've ever created.... out of about 30

I get that as the power increases, and you really start to hammer on a subwoofer, that the impedance rises, so that while a sub(s) might be wired to 1/2 or even 1/4 ohm, by the time it starts to get the shit beat out of it, the impedance rise might have it up to 1 or even more than 1 ohm, which of course is not a problem for most modern, high quality amps. But my question is, how does the amp not shut off, before one even starts to hammer on the system" ? Like, you turn it on.... haven't even gotten to the volume control yet, the amp sees 1/4 ohm, and just instantly shuts off ? I'd just like to know how guys are getting by with this ? And also, what are the pros and cons of such a system ? Could it be used as a daily driver, OR, is this for nothing other than comps ? Like full blast for a few seconds, then shut it down to cool for 10 minutes ?

So I put in my 18" ZVX, and tried to model it in a 6th order. I was shooting for really deep extension, like to 20 hz before it sharply dropped off, and good bass in the 65 to 90hz range also, with a pretty big dip at around 58 hz.... My cabin gain peak. Kept getting a big peak above 58 hz... a wider dip at 58 hz than Id prefer, and although the output was very flat and nice between say 50 and 20hz.... it was not very loud ? If somebody wants to play with this sub in WinIsd just for fun, plz do, and see if you can do any better than I did. Thank you.

If by "layers of port" you mean, the number of folds in it, that doesn't make a lot of difference. The tuning is all about the length of port to the square inches of port ratio, whether it be a long, straight port, or folded back and forth six times.

Hey btw though, Im running a Dayton 408 DSP, and it only cost me $149 Very easy to install.... Very time consuming, and somewhat of a PITA to get it dialed in though. However, its up to the user how perfect they want to get it. I mainly used it to knock down that cabin gain peak (of 58hz in my truck) and another peak in my midbass at about 150hz. Its also a lot easier to use the full X-over features in the DSP, than it is to screw around with the X-overs in both the amps and HU.

Hmmmm. Well, I was dropping a girl off at a Trader Joe's (for ride-share) and as she got out of the car, I told her.... Better watch for the guy the owns that place... He's a Trader .....my GF saw her Dr recently, and he recommended that she should have a "heavy metals" test. I told her, she was going to walk in for the test and they were going to hand her an electric guitar

Those programs are fun to play with... and can probably do a great job for a particular sub woofer(s) ....but the biggest problem is, they do not take into account, the cabin of your vehicle My current enclosure modeled flat like a freaking shelf, to 30 hz, then dropped off quickly. And Im confident my build was extremely close to what was called for. But once I put it in the truck, it got the huge peak from cabin gain. Granted, I was able to knock that down with my Digital Sound Processor.... But the point is, no matter how it models in an enclosure design program, its going to act different in your vehicle. Usually correctable, if a person cares enough to do so.

Just be aware that that hard foam is a really good (maybe bad, for your situation) insulator. So whatever you do, don't put anything over the top of those amps, as the heat from those will be totally trapped, and those amps will be sizzling in no time, plus take forever to cool off. I'd still put a fan on them. Granted, you might live in a colder area. Here in Sac, an amp can be overheated "before" you turn it on lol

Honestly, compared to the systems that guys on this forum, and myself have built, their really is "no such thing" as a car that comes with a "high end audio system".

Yes. You need a HO alternator. Maybe two or three of them lol No. You do not need any more batteries. Just get one of those $49 ones from Walmart. That will probably be fine Generally speaking, of course Batteries are over rated. Just make enough juice to begin with, that you don't have to store shit

Oh bro, your totally right ! I already know my instantaneous (micro second) dips are probably going to 12V.... heck maybe lower ! And that sucks ! However, I don't think an extra battery.... heck, 6 extra batteries would make a big difference with that. Okay, maybe a little. But I think batteries are "the wrong tool for that job". Super capacitors might not store much juice in amp hours, but what they do store, they will let go of literally thousands of times faster than ANY battery... even a Lithium battery. I mean, one could call super caps batteries I guess, but they have such different parameters, that its like apples and oranges to compare them to Lithiums, or AGM's. And one day, maybe I will actually receive the stinking things ! Urgggg.... We need to make the ef'ing things here in the US, instead of depending on China. Fuck China.