Fish Chris

Okay, so I'm replying to the last two posts, which were started during "this decade" lol But do they realize this thread was started 10 years ago ? Anyway, people used to always ask me shit like.... "Hey, I got this Shimano real for $10. Are Shimano reels any good" ? Answer > Shimano makes everything from cheap little pieces of crap, that are not worth their weight in dirt, all the way up to totally bad ass, silky smooth, ultra precise pieces of high tech machinery".... and everything in between. So, does Shimano make good reels ? Hell yes ! But the one you got is a total POS lol Subwoofers are kind of the same thing. Most of the big names make some rinky dink entry level stuff too.

Yea, I've watched all of this guys vids on this car. The thing is though, he makes it sound very technical, and very sketchy !

Thanks again guys ! Sorry, I almost forgot I asked about this here. I'll be back again soon to read this whole thing even closer. Peace

WoW ! No shit ??? That's freaking awesome ! And depending on how its setup, IMPO, that many amps can totally make a very loud SQL kind of setup ! I'm thinking several BIG true infinite baffle subs... a few really sensitive mid bass drivers, and a pair of compression horns for mids / highs

I will likely be getting a second hybrid vehicle in the next few months, and of course, it will have to have a little bit of decent sound in it..... at least as good as my Prius. Problem is, these hybrid vehicles typically have a max amperage draw, of less than 100 amps. Toyota says my Prius is only 30 amps ! But I'm running a 5 ch amp that is fused for 90 amps, so I'm probably pulling as much as 40 or 50 amps during hard play, and no problems yet. My new vehicle has a 60 amp (recommended) so it might actually be good for 100 amps ? Which is fine for now.... But what if I ever wanted to have a BIG, powerful setup ??? And what happens when ALL new vehicles are either Hybrid, or all electric ? I know these big ass high voltage batteries hold PLENTY of juice for a very strong stereo system, but its all about the inverter they use.... which is typically, not very strong, as the vast majority of folks just don't need that much juice Are any companies working on high powered aftermarket power inverters for Hybrids or all electric vehicles ? Where is this going to go ?

Hey Arthur, that is a pretty bad ass amp Never seen those. Well, put it this way, when you said those 1.5 million wt systems probably use a big diesel generator, your on the right track.... but consider this, that rig "already has" a big diesel motor right there It wouldn't "have to have" a seperate diesel motor. Now whether or not they do, I don't know. But can't you guess what I'm thinking about ? ......in a 3/4 ton truck with a strong diesel motor and a "big bed" ? I just don't think it would be too terribly hard to get the power (shaft driven) to the bed of a truck to turn a whole bunch of big strong alternators, or, to gear them so that the motor works the easiest to turn them, and the alts get the required RPM's to make full juice. So how about a dozen 500 amp alts ? Sounds completely doable to me. A big name in the game needs to hurry up and do this, to prove me right ! Some rough calculations tells me this would take about 150 hp. Should be easy peasy for a strong diesel that can make 500-600 hp, right ?

....how would you use this power ? I ask, because I'm constantly thinking about how this could be achieved. I don't often go into details, because 1) I kind of dream about being the first guy to do it (although Im currently somewhat poor) and 2) so many guys just don't even want to consider ideas that have not already been tried. I've just seen so many show systems with 4 big alternators under the hood... which is cool and all, but where do you go from there ? I just feel like this approach is kind of a dead end. Four big alts, and now your stacking batteries, because you can't increase your power production any more, with alts under your hood Id just love to see one of the Big Boys in car audio do this, just to show that it can be done.

Yea, this still really bugs me. Makes me want to rebuild my stock alternator, which my mechanic friend still has, putting it back in the truck, and just running the truck off if it. Then running my stereo system only, off of my 320 amp alternator (with" a voltage regulator that pegs it at 14.6 volts !

I know a few guys here and there (Sencheezy comes to mind) have played with high voltage systems that needed a huge amount of really heavy batteries wired to make enough volts. Okay. I guess that can work. But how about if your car already has a 400 volt battery built in ? This guy says this is the "only" high voltage system running directly from an all electric cars battery ? He also keeps stressing how dangerous it is, so maybe if this was to get popular, 20 guys would die in the first year, then it would get outlawed. Anyway, show me a car this tiny, with a 100Kwt+ 12 volt setup ? I'm not sure that could even be done ? Another thought crosses my mind.... I think a LOT of guys would see this, and think, "Okay, that's pretty cool. But I don't have an all electric car, nor do I know when I ever will" ? So here's some food for thought. Why would you need an all electric car ? Large, high voltage replacement batteries for all electric cars are available from aftermarket companies starting at less than $2K. I wonder how much Sencheezys 24 AGM's cost ? And one of these high voltage batteries would probably fit fairly easily into most large SUV's, vans, trucks with shells, etc. The only other thing you would need would be a fast charger.... Or, you could just stop by a fast charging station on your way to the shows Alright, so this is probably an extremely technical and dangerous venture. But just the fact that this guy actually did it, with apparent success, I'm surprised to not see a few of the big guys in car audio, building this type of system ? Oh and BTW, while some parts of this system might be very expensive, that 112Kwt high voltage amplifier, is going for only $800 ! So when guys are spending $20K or more on multiple 12volt amps, just look at how much extra $$$ they would have to spend elsewhere. PS, This guy has quite a few short videos on this build, and even a demo, but you kind of have to bounce around looking to find them. I found a complete list somewhere, but can't find it now...

So just to be clear, you believe that the voltage drop is more because ECU is telling the alternator that everything is charged, and now it can back off ? ....vs. the alternator is getting hot, and it backs off to protect itself ?

Read it. Hmmm. All this time I was feeling like my alternator voltage output was dropping after it started to get hot.... but maybe it's more likely, its dropping after it feels like my battery is fully charged ? Now, to be quite honest, lets say that keeping my charging up to 14.5 volts "at all times" were to shorten my battery life by 50% (or less) ..... I'd probably be willing to accept this tradeoff. Heck, my battery only costed $179 at Sam's Club. If I only got 2 years out of it, instead of 4, but was able to have 14.5 volts the entire time, that would be worth it to me.

Ha ! Guess what ? Apparently, it's not even a big deal, and has already been done for a long time ! https://www.google.com/search?q=water+cooled+alternator&sxsrf=ALeKk03wZ1MQJKJIhcOjMaPb2H22Rs8Okg:1620487906635&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiLpKbws7rwAhXGsZ4KHbQsCRkQ1TV6BQgBEIoB&biw=2327&bih=1180 What the hell Mechman ? Why can't we have this option ? I want a 600 amp, watercooled Alternator for my F150 please Thank you in advance Oh, and please put in a regulator that pegs my voltage at 14.6

That's what I figured And yea, if I turn on my AC (which I always do in the Sacramento Summer it will jump my voltage up a few tenths, maybe from 13.6 to 13.9.... but not all the way back up to 14.5. Im seriously wondering how I can "super cool" that alternator ? Freaking wrap that bitch in a liquid cooled jacket ! I'm only half joking here... Maybe it's mostly a psychological thing here, with my hard core OCD... But I'd SO like to see 14.6 volts on my voltmeter at ALL times ! Even when beating the chit out my system on a hot Sacramento Summer day !

1) Big 3 2) HO Alt 3) add super capictor 4) as long as the battery is not dead, dont worry about it. If it dies, go pick up a $179 dollar AGM from Costco or Sam's Club If your not making enough juice to play your system hard, continuously, and keeping your voltage up, add another HO alternator. Batteries are over rated.

So I believe my alternator is sufficiently strong for my system. It is a 320 amp, Pure Power Alt. I can push my system to full tilt (right before clipping) and it might drop from 14.5, to say 14.2 > while sitting, and at an idle. But If I'm driving down the freeway, I can play the system at full tilt, and it won't drop even one tenth from 14.5 volts ! {which I think is pretty bad @$$ ;)} But here's the thing that bugs me. With my system shut completely off, on a hot day, after Ive been driving for a while, my voltage will drop to as low as 13.6 volts And the thing is, I can hear a significant loss of performance from my system, when it's only getting 13.6 volts, vs. 14.5. In other words, the stereo system has little to no effect on my voltage, while a hot day has a BIG effect on my voltage ? So I keep reading, "Oh, this is normal... and alternators do this to protect themselves from over heating, etc, etc...." I've also read, that it might be possible to use an aftermarket regulator that pegs it at 14.5 volts, but that this can cause the alternator to fail prematurely So that kind of sucks. What can I do to keep my voltage at 14.5 volts ? Do I need to do some liquid cooling of that bitch ? lol