Fish Chris

Yea, I downloaded some 50hz test tones, plus white noise...

Mr. Skippy, so I stripped an old spare RCA plug, so I could try that.... What kind of voltage should I expect to see, just playing music ??? I mean, I know its supposed to be a 2v output, but I'm assuming its much lower, and variable, during real world music listening....

Tried that already. In fact, I had it unplugged from the amp for a few days, then decided it was still easier to fiddle with it, even only have the adjustment in such a narrow range, than having to dig into the HU menus all the time.

Mr Skippy, TY. I'm using a Pioneer DMH 1770 NEX. The amp is an Infinity 7005 5 ch, and the remote bass control is the one that came with it. That sounds like a really easy way to check the voltage output, and something I really need to do ! When the new remote bass control comes in, we can check that in about 2 minutes... But if that doesn't fix it, which I don't believe it will, we will need to check that voltage output very next thing...

Hmmmm. Funny you should say this. In my last "Prius system" all I had was a DSP, with the factory HU, and it did sound really great too > AND, I certainly made plenty of output voltage for my 5ch Kicker amp, as in, I think I ran my gains at about 70%. I had actually wanted to go with "only" a DSP and the factory HU again, but my vehicle was too new, and their are no plug and play options for it yet So, figuring if I had to splice wires anyway, I might as well go with an aftermarket HU. Anyway, I just can't help but believe that "even with the equipment that I have right now" things could be better. In other words, it seems to me, we have a problem, with either the HU, or the amp ? BTW, does anyone know the easiest way to test for output voltage from the HU ? I mean, if I found out it was only like .3 or .6 volts, that would explain everything, right ?

So I recently put together a new daily driver system for my 2022 Prius XLE (the king of rideshare and car camping LOVE my Prius Anyway, the system is fairly basic... Kicker components for the stock door and dash spots... Kicker coax for the rear doors, and a super compact little ported and tuned box for a Sundown Audio 8" in the hatch area. I'm powering it all with an Infinity Reference 7005 5ch amp, which is rated at 50 x 4, and 500 x 1. Anyway, out of like 15 systems in 8 or 10 vehicles, along with maybe 30 different sub enclosures I've built in the last 40 years, this is probably the nicest sounding system I've ever had. Their are only two problems.... 1) I kept having to turn my gain up, to the point that it is now completely maxed out ! Yes, I know, this is never recommended right ? AND, even with it maxed out, I have my individual bass channel volume set to +8 (which goes from -25 to +10) < and with these ridiculous adjustments, it seems like "just barely enough signal"... if not quite enough for an all out demo, pushing it to right before the clipping point ?!?! Again, I want to stress, it sounds freaking awesome ! But I don't think I've managed to hit any distortion yet ? Obviously, I'm not "trying to distort my system. It's just that I think I have a pretty good ear for distortion, and every other system I've ever had, could reach distortion if I pushed it too hard, at which point I'd just back off a bit. That is NOT the case with this setup. Oh btw, I also have ZERO hiss, crackle, or white noise between songs, as I would expect with my gains set too high ??? 2) And the bigger problem.... My remote bass knob is not linear at all ! Its like nothing from 7 to 8. ALL the control between 8 and 9. And no more change between 9 and 5 ! In other words, super freaking touchy, and very hard to control. Any thoughts or suggestions ??? PS, My HU only has 2 volt outputs, but I still didn't think I'd need anymore that 80 to 90% of my subwoofer gains ? My stereo outputs are at about 80%... but could maybe be bumped up to about 90%. The sub channel gain is definitely the bigger problem...

Okay, so I'm replying to the last two posts, which were started during "this decade" lol But do they realize this thread was started 10 years ago ? Anyway, people used to always ask me shit like.... "Hey, I got this Shimano real for $10. Are Shimano reels any good" ? Answer > Shimano makes everything from cheap little pieces of crap, that are not worth their weight in dirt, all the way up to totally bad ass, silky smooth, ultra precise pieces of high tech machinery".... and everything in between. So, does Shimano make good reels ? Hell yes ! But the one you got is a total POS lol Subwoofers are kind of the same thing. Most of the big names make some rinky dink entry level stuff too.

I'm sure this build is going to totally amazing, because its SMD ! Wouldn't expect anything less But I'm thrown off by a few things, and trying figure it out. 1) Your only going to be giving your 15"s, 1500 wts RMS each ? Aren't you giving the subs in your Tahoe like 5-6 Kwts ? 2) I know those amps are TOP quality, and probably make super clean, efficient power, but it seems odd to me that that they make the 2 x 1500 RMS amplifier (which your using on your subs) and a 4 x 1500 wts RMS that your using for mids / highs, and they have the same footprint ? 3) So your going to be making 6 Kwts (for all four ch) total for your four 15"s.... and 12 Kwts (for all eight ch) total for your mids/highs ? Am I missing something here ?

That's cool. And I never have a problem with old threads brought back from the dead. Often, old threads are still completely relevant now. Still, some guys actually seem to get mad about this ? Odd, but whatever

I totally believe Xs makes better batteries. I also believe they are way overpriced, and more importantly, I believe "batteries" in general, are WAY over hyped in car audio. If you need more power, MAKE more power, with as large, or as many high powered alternators as you need. Unless you plan to sit and play your system with your vehicle turned off. I never do that. I just saw a video where a car used "NO" batteries. Only a super capacitor bank, with like 5 amp hours. Granted, this was just for the car itself, and no high powered stereo system. But I truly believe that with enough power generation, and a nice strong super capacitor bank, batteries are pretty much meaningless. Granted, super capacitors are nearly impossible to get right now ! Urgggg !!!

Doers everyone realize, this thread was started 11 years ago ? lol Seriously though, did anyone ever ask the OP about his alternator ?

Tell you what, I go to South Lake Tahoe all the time. Maybe I could meet you in person some time, and we can see then if you still feel the same Peace. BTW, I don't mean that to sound confrontational. Maybe we could trade stereo demo's... although I'd likely be in my car, and that system definitely leans towards SQ. The truck system ins my SQL setup, but I'm usually in S. Tahoe with my car.

Why ? Because first they say this; "Small adjustments may be required for this battery to fit into your vehicle." Then they say this: "Disclaimer: XS Power is not responsible for incorrect vehicle fitment." Okay, so make one that fits perfectly, no adaptions needed. Especially considering this is "the most common vehicle" (and that includes cars and trucks) on the road today ! I get that it might not be feasible to make a specific battery for every different vehicle on the road. However, at least start with the most popular vehicles, and then have adaptions for the less common vehicles. This would be the most logical thing to do. {sorry, I'm not trying to make this bold... it wont let undo that ?)

I drive one of the most popular, common vehicles on the freaking road... a freaking Ford F150 ! You have heard of those, right ? And then I just saw this > https://4xspower.com/bci_group/59/ Seriously ? Id figure that when XS Power first started as a company, making a battery for my truck would be one of the first 4 or 5 batteries they produced. And the real sticker, is when they say, "The option below is powerful enough".... Powerful enough for who ? For what ? That reminds me of when a speaker company says, this sub "can work in as little as X cubic feet"..... I don't give a shit "what it can work in", What does it work best in ! Powerful enough ? No ! Tell me, "This battery was designed to be the most powerful battery that will fit perfectly in your truck" ! Honestly, I was on the fence between an XS and a much cheaper Duracel AGM, but I think now I've decided. They make one to fit my truck perfectly.