Fish Chris

Ha ! Guess what ? Apparently, it's not even a big deal, and has already been done for a long time ! https://www.google.com/search?q=water+cooled+alternator&sxsrf=ALeKk03wZ1MQJKJIhcOjMaPb2H22Rs8Okg:1620487906635&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiLpKbws7rwAhXGsZ4KHbQsCRkQ1TV6BQgBEIoB&biw=2327&bih=1180 What the hell Mechman ? Why can't we have this option ? I want a 600 amp, watercooled Alternator for my F150 please Thank you in advance Oh, and please put in a regulator that pegs my voltage at 14.6

That's what I figured And yea, if I turn on my AC (which I always do in the Sacramento Summer it will jump my voltage up a few tenths, maybe from 13.6 to 13.9.... but not all the way back up to 14.5. Im seriously wondering how I can "super cool" that alternator ? Freaking wrap that bitch in a liquid cooled jacket ! I'm only half joking here... Maybe it's mostly a psychological thing here, with my hard core OCD... But I'd SO like to see 14.6 volts on my voltmeter at ALL times ! Even when beating the chit out my system on a hot Sacramento Summer day !

1) Big 3 2) HO Alt 3) add super capictor 4) as long as the battery is not dead, dont worry about it. If it dies, go pick up a $179 dollar AGM from Costco or Sam's Club If your not making enough juice to play your system hard, continuously, and keeping your voltage up, add another HO alternator. Batteries are over rated.

So I believe my alternator is sufficiently strong for my system. It is a 320 amp, Pure Power Alt. I can push my system to full tilt (right before clipping) and it might drop from 14.5, to say 14.2 > while sitting, and at an idle. But If I'm driving down the freeway, I can play the system at full tilt, and it won't drop even one tenth from 14.5 volts ! {which I think is pretty bad @$$ ;)} But here's the thing that bugs me. With my system shut completely off, on a hot day, after Ive been driving for a while, my voltage will drop to as low as 13.6 volts And the thing is, I can hea

IMPO, either one of those batteries "by itself" is enough for 8000 wts... heck, 18,000 wts. All batteries do is "store power". Are you planning to sit and play your system with the vehicle off ? Then yea, you would need more storage. Maybe a lot more. Otherwise, don't try to store power, just make enough of it to begin with ! For an 8Kwt system, I'd be running two 350 amp alts (or greater) one decent battery (but since you already have two) and a strong supercap bank, and call it a day I'm sorry, I forgot to ask what vehicle... Might not work in a Smartcar lol

I'm sure this build is going to totally amazing, because its SMD ! Wouldn't expect anything less But I'm thrown off by a few things, and trying figure it out. 1) Your only going to be giving your 15"s, 1500 wts RMS each ? Aren't you giving the subs in your Tahoe like 5-6 Kwts ? 2) I know those amps are TOP quality, and probably make super clean, efficient power, but it seems odd to me that that they make the 2 x 1500 RMS amplifier (which your using on your subs) and a 4 x 1500 wts RMS that your using for mids / highs, and they have the same footprint ?

Seriously though, even if your not into "this type" of music, I don't think anyone would say that the stuff from "for King and Country" is not mixed and recorded amazingly well ! This stuff makes a well balanced setup sound even better ! Lots of great variable frequency bass too. Crisp mids and highs as well. Excellent for SQL demos For starters, check out, "Never Give Up" and "God Only Knows".... Or, for the deepest bass, I'm still listening to Koan... check out, "Island of the Deceased Ships".

A Roomba Vacuum cleaner

I'm running this one. Love it. 3yr unlimited for only $169 https://www.samsclub.com/p/auto-group-65agm-36-mo-free/prod9070062?xid=plp_product_1 However, IMPO, all batteries are over rated. No matter how you look at it, batteries are just for storage. What's WAY more important, is making plenty of juice to begin with, so you need to store very little. Id rather add another alternator... or six

I'm not sure what the mathematical calculations are, but the literature with my 500 farad bank, says its good for 3500 wts RMS. They do sell higher farad banks.... Or, a person could run multiple banks. My system is about 3200 wts RMS (well, somebody here might tell you my actual wts are like 273 lol, after impedance drop and 17 other things) but I mean, my amps have a birth sheet of like 3200 wts RMS total, and my super cap banks works freaking amazingly well Anyway, just to reiterate, when my system grows, more super cap banks and alternators will be added. Batteries ? Ehhh....

So far as I know, yes. Lithiums are kind of wimpy sometimes though, on how much juice you can shove into them (max charging rate). Something to think about if you have a big, strong aftermarket alternator, or multiple alternators.

Yes between my AGM battery and my amps.

Lithiums are just a battery. Granted, they are really good batteries, with a high power to weight ratio, but still they are just a battery. Supercapacitor are "almost" not a battery at all. Mine only holds 8 amp hours. But it can release those amps hundreds of times faster than a lead acid, or AGM battery. And although lithium is faster than these, it's still not even close to a super capacitor. Super capacitors are (generally) not intended to replace batteries, but rather, to work in conjunction with them, each covering the others weaknesses.

It's on the bottom right. Tucks in perfectly. Can't go anywhere. I don't think it would move in a freaking rollover !

Nothing like being 3 months late for the response lol I forgot I had asked this, and actually found this thread doing a random internet search, as I was still wondering the same thing Anyway, thanks guys. I hate sealed enclosures. Built about 4 of them and they all sucked. I will look into 4th orders for a wide bandwidth.