soundzright
-
Posts
244 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by soundzright
-
-
for daily the 3800 for burping the BC extreme. I heard those multicell bat caps shouldn't be used for daily use.
-
Go for as big as you can fit.. 1800 or higher to be better than yellowtop
For daily car starting and use I would go at least a HC1200. Tony Stewart's race team uses a HC800 for their Camp World truck though nd seem to like it really well.
-
I used RC cars as a metaphor, you are getting confused. He stated the option was 2 alts and a 16v battery bank or 3 alts and a 12v system after the whole stepdown transformer situtation played out. You must not have read the entire thread and the direction it was headed in. I'm not trying to bust anyone's balls or come across as a smart ass. Drop all your what's the most convenient way point of view and think about his original post which said this will be for a competition vehicle. If he's going to drop this much cash on gear why not push it to it's limits that seems to be his mindset as well.
Aside from that, mechman was pointing out the fact that his unit already comes with an adjustable regulator on the back of it. Something I had no knowledge of while stating that any alternator can use an adjustable regulator.
If he were to go with 3 alternators and a 12volt setup, They'll be able to efficiently handle all the power the amp is capable of drawing at maybe 15 volts or so. Thing about that is he won't get to peak the 11,000 watts the amp is capable of even with having three alternators. It'll be very consistent though at what it does on the 12volt system.
He wants to push the limitations of his gear, plain and simple. I'm just stating suggestions from experience.
Race cars = RC toy cars? All I was stating was isolating a power source for the car meaning if he was going to run 2 16v alts only some of that power made by those alts would be used by the car so he might as well add a 12v alt just for the car as it would be seperate and isolated leaving all of the high voltage power made for the system. Also found out they sold out of HC16v batteries with more on the way to stores in about 2 weeks.
-
If you had a choice to use 12volt batteries or 16volt batteries for your race car. And the 16volt would increase your speed by 33% and give you more power to go up the slope which would you choose? 500-600 amps worth of power on a 16volt system is more than sufficient I'd think for an 8.1. Provided that he has a good amount of batteries. Later on with adding another he'll experience some voltage drops from having two I'm sure, but even at that he won't be dipping down into 11-13 range on 16 volt batteries, which still equals more power.
16v race batteries give you 33% more hp? Besides that I am talking the electrical system for the CAR not the audio. Seems mechman agreed with me as well.
-
Not necessarily a 18+ volt alternator, just an external regulator that's adjustable. Most you can adjust from 13-20. Most cars come factory with what? 70-100 amp alternators? The idea of daisy chaining a few stepdown modules vs replacing batteries seems a bit more logical to me.
It would have to be 18v to charge the 16v batteries. If you end up needing multiple modules wouldnt you just be better off applying that cost into a second alt to run a 12v system? Seems logical to me.
-
More volts = more power! plain and simple! Just make sure you wire everything up appropriately, Most cars have a 16v limit as far as voltage would go. I know nothing about the kinetik 16 volt batteries but I've seen other people use step down modules for 16-12. I've also heard a few people at my local shop say that said that the batteries swell up over time using both sides. They ran into a ton of warranty issues with the swelling and stopped selling the the 16s. They still stock normal sizes though, I have yet to hear any horror stories about powermaster batteries(as far as this forum and ca.com goes) You would need a stepdown module then. Which would probably be best anyway.
Edited to correct I've also heard a few people at my local shop say that said that the batteries swell up over time using both sides.
A 16v set up would require a 18+ volt alt and if you went the module route you may need several as they handle 25 amps cont and 50 amps max.
-
If you have alot of 12v accessories like mids and highs amplifiers or neons a dual set up would be great. If there arent many other accessories I would talk to kinetik about what you want to do. Their technical support number is toll free.
-
not sure how much a 350 runs, i found a 280 for about 350 and another one that was about 550. If i could fit dual alts id probably just run 2 180s or 200s. And a 3100 will not fit under my hood. so ill have to put them in back\
I would do 2 200 amp alts and 2 or 3 group 31 sized batteries like oddyssey 2150, kinetik 2400 or xs d3100
-
i just use autozone and the optima website... thats why i didnt know which kinetik model because they dont follow group sizing where pm does
HC1400 is a group 22
HC1800 is a group 24
HC2000 is a group 27
HC2400 is a group 31
-
get two from mechman... one under the hood, one next to the amp... i doubt one will be enough
In kinetik an hc1800. Kinetik just revamped their website www.kinetikaudio.com
-
Anyone know...I am interested in the 975's just wondering if there is going to be a difference with my system.....or in price
I think the S series comes with a metal case and battery terminals
-
my 2400 kept my voltage .4 v higher without having a corroded mess than a flooded marine battery+ you don't have to spend 45 minutes every 6-8 months getting them swapped out at the wal mart.
-
just get a deka intimidator that fits under your hood..would be within 30 bucks or so of that dinky battery.
-
-
that mechman "2500" watt thing is a bit of an overstatement...I'ive kinda been told that you should have about 10 times the CCA as your amp(s) draw
so a 2000 watt amp with 220 amps of fusing should have a battery(s) rated at 2200cca, so as not to tax them too heavily in operation
basically you should be fine, especially with the alt and dual runs (super especially if you busbar those rear batts), just butting in on that d925 being cool for 2500 watts
i have seen where mechman says it takes at least 2 925's to equal 1 kinetik hc2400
-
Right now i have 2 1800's, mla module and a 200a alt. I was walkin around walmart and noticed that one of their marine batts have a reserve of 128a/hr...thats pretty much the equivalent to what the kinetik 2400 has. and for only 80$.
Few questions, right now moneys tight and my voltage drops a high 12's/low 13s driving around town...would it hurt to add one or two of these into my battery bank? Or should i just save the money for another kinetik.
I realize the quality is nowhere near what the kinetik is, but im just looking for a cheaper way out at the moment.
is it an agm? if not may have a high resistance and might not be good to put in the trunk. I would go with kinetik
-
You know what, lets level out here...Im not going to keep throwing back "words" with you, cause internet chat boards are so good for that, instead, maybe Im just not understanding everything like you all do. I have in my head that I need at least 2 batts in the rear, but, Now I think you all are saying to just run 1 D3100...is this correct? Dont call me a "tool" im far from one. I have just completed my EMT-I schooling, and just yesterday I passed my Final exam with a 92%. I have been studying for 14 days stright bro, not kidding. Im tired, anxious, and IN DESPERATE NEED OF A JOB, so my bad for not completely understanding ya'll here. Perhaps a nice little sorry from your end would be nice, no need to be pissed at each other. OK, back to the subject at hand..... I can get a Kenitic HC2000 for a good price, will this be better then my 2 HC800's?
I have a buddy that runs 2000's. 1 would be equal to about 2.5 800's in the reserve department at least.
-
Deka is the cheapest new, I would go with either kinetik and enersys odyssey as good choices too
-
can you adjust the internal the same way if you went that way?
-
what do the units with the built in adjustable regulators look like?
-
what does a batcap 3000 compare with? a group 34-24ish battery?
-
Alright guys..
I am sorry if this has been asked before... Why can I not charge the D2400 and D3100 at once with the PM Intel. charger? It will be a real pain for me to have to charge one battery, than another after. what is the specific reasoning behind it?
only reason I could think of is being of different size the smaller one might be fully charged faster than the larger? Don't know.
-
Looking for a cheaper starting battery get a deka intimidator
-
Don't they need to be charged first?? I wasn't aware you could load test a battery if it was under 10.2 volts. I was always told for the load test to be done properly, the battery needed to be charged to at least 10.2 volts. I am in the process of charging them now. I only have one charger so doing them one at a time. They are on a 2 amp trickle charge, so it might take a while to get them up to a charge. Once they are charged I will load test them.
Shawn
I would see what kinetik says about charging before I charged them or load tested them....
Voltage drop problem
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
I thought that was good for 2000 watts of support being used under the hood?