HHR Ed
-
Posts
4666 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by HHR Ed
-
-
-Resistance is NOT Impedance.
-Volts * Amps does NOT equal Watts in AC land
-You can NOT use an AC voltmeter and AC current meter to get true power unless you are powering a resistor and are using a scope or clipping detection device. I don't care what your friend the "electrician" said.
-You can NOT use a DMM to measure impedance
-Clipping is NOT DC
-There is NO SUCH THING as Watts RMS (though we use it in audio)
-WTH is "Box Rise"
-The word "subsonic" to describe low frequency audio is TOTALLY incorrect
-CCA wire is NOT OK
-Class D is not better, it's cheaper
WTH is Class D?
D'Amore Engineering will be launching a FREE education section on it's website in the next few days. There will be a series of videos and demonstrations to prove all of the above statements and more. This sport is more full of bad information than the gossip mags at the checkout stand. Something needs to be done. This bad information continues to get passed on, and our hobby continues to be degraded.
I'm still paying on my student loans, but it doesn't mean you have to.
Stop by www.DAmoreEngineering.com soon, watch some vids, buy a t-shirt.
Thank you for doing this.
I find myself needing to sit back and learn a few things.
-
2
-
-
One option is a step down module. Charge alts at 16.2 and step down to a small 12V batt to run vehicle off of that.
http://showtimecaraudio.net/shop/electronics/993-voltage-step-down-module-50a-max/
-
Lol yup pretty much.
Plus looks like there's more variety for the D series. I was just worried about the heat and whether the S series had higher tolerances.
But looks like they are pretty equal. Gonna measure what will fit now
If you are concerned with heat, you can always add a thermal wrap.
This site has them
http://showtimecaraudio.net/shop/battery-insulation/500-heat-protective-power-wrap-kit/
-
Here's information about what I got thus far:
Truck: Frontier, Nissan ex cab 1999 (2.4L engine) (see picture below)
Engine: All stock at the moment (Big three will be done soon)
Subwoofer: A single Solo X 12"
Amp 1: ZX2500.1 (birthsheet @2,752wrms)
Amp 2: ZX350.4 (birthsheet @ 449wrms)
Speakers: KM Components
Type of setup: Daily driver
Budget: unlimited
I've searched on XS power site to see what's the biggest battery can be put under the hood and this is what it came up to me: BCI Group # 24.
http://4xspower.com/bci_group/24/
Question #1: Will this single battery be significant for a whole thing (including truck and the system) or am I require to have at least the second battery in the rear? Reason why I ask is because solo X 12" only sees no more than ~2,000 watts (according to the kicker manual) and my speakers only sees no more than 180 wrms.
Question #2: I was looking at the price of chargers and my heart stopped: $300+ for a charger?! XD Is there any cheap (but good) charger out there? I do not want to void warranty or anything if unproper charging the battery.
Question #3: I must be blind but I did not see any H.O alt on XS site. Do you have it for sale?
Thanks for your time reading and answering my questions. I really appreciate it.
-Smurfboy
Picture not mine but same truck I got:
XS does not offer alternators.
You can always go to dealers like me for both.
The D2400 is rated to supply 4000w. -1000w for engine/car, so 3000w to stereo
Your system will consume about 4200w based on loss in amplifier efficiency.
So here is a possible solution for you.
D2400 up front
+ XP 2000 in the back
That will give you good starting and good reserve for your setup.
Your combine AH is about 167AH, so any alt larger than that will do nicely.
So add a 220A Mechman I offer and you will be good to go.
If you want to add a charger, XS intellichargers go for $199
Need any more detailed info and PM me.
-
-
S and D series of XS power utilize the same materials and plate design.
Both will perform in a similar fashion under the hood of a car.
Difference besides the color of the labels are that the S comes with top posts, and some of the D models have slightly more lead than the S series counterpart. This makes the S version lighter and the D version have more capacity.
-
I've seen people talk bad about O-scopes too. And it was because they didn't know how to use them.
Every tool has it's use. Just because a hammer is no good as tightening bolts, doesn't justify bashing it.
-
1
-
-
This is me not knowing much about batteries but, weren't groups of batteries supposed to be around the same size? My car is a group 75 and its dimensions are: L 9.69" x W 7.25" x H 7.25"
I was stoked to hear they made a 7500 but then realized its huge! Great thing for the big car audio guys though!
While most of the D series batts from XS follow group sizes in their model number. This one does not. The 7500 follows the wattage capacity of 7500w.
-
Not as old as you'd like but I do have an RF X1, X2, and X3
-
-
yep, I was right, D3400 with 551 I-bar
-
-
What year is it?
And what is a TBSS?
If it's what I think it is, probably a D3400 and you can use the 551 I-Bar kit to fit the side mount terminals.
-
They are little metal hats for little metal gophers.
with 4" coils
-
7
-
-
I am interested in a few pallets of these new batteries.
-
Here is the rest in a readable manor.
No, according to what you say Ed, is no amplifier can not be 100% efficient and how you will have Loss and NEVER HAVE 100% EFFICIENCY .
You said nothing about size. you go on to say once they add capacitors,and resistors they are no longer efficient and the engineers say it cant be done.
The Rockford Fosgate T15k, proves what you said, mini or not mini amp. Your WRONG!
As well as some of these other mini amplifiers on the market such as the Rockford Fosgate boosted rail amps are pretty far up there.
Someone else mentioned the huge Phoenix Gold The one amp thats 90+ efficient
They tiny SounDigital amplifiers with the clear plastic cases are 95% efficient.
The kicker warhorse is 93% efficient at 4ohms, and 90% at 2ohms.
Bottom line is just because the guys English is not the best, is no reason to say the video is wrong, and Im sure the amp is in the high 90% efficiency rating, and wont be long til more amps are since so many are already just a few percent away.
No electronics can be 100% efficient, even the RF T15K.
It's sort of a marketing gimmick. It does not make 3x more power than it consumes, it stores energy over time.
So if measured in killowatt hours like your house, it will show a lower than 100% efficiency rating.
We can apply their method to our alternator and battery setups and say that when we have a bank of 10 batteries and 20,000w of actual output from our amps, and a 250A alternator, that our system is over 600% efficient
-
The way this amp works does not allow it to be mini lol
-
-
[/img]
http://i131.photobuc...cearthquake.jpg
Dont know if you can read it but basically I explain how the RFt15k works to my understanding with time as a factor and then explained that I do know the Earthquake amps do not have that design.
I then explained that in the vid he mentions it will consume 1w and then output ALMOST 1w. Which means less than 100%
So his statement about 100% efficiency and No heat was just exaggeration to make a point that they are very efficient and run cool. Obviously 100% efficiency is impossible and he just mispoke.
And Earthquake is a decent brand, the old PHD2 amps were beasts
-
Sure you can do it. Car speakers and home speaker to differ, and some home speakers are of better quality in large environments with an enclosure attached, but car speakers can do well.
-
HULK SMASH SPL Meter!
-
Has to do with the geometry of the woofer design and how all the parts work together.
For instance, you may have a 200w rms woofer with a single slug. This is because at 200w, the woofer will only move a small amount. So adding more slugs would be a waste of money.
A larger woofer that handles 1500w rms can have 2 or 3 slugs. This depends on how thick the top plate is and how tall the coil is. Also what design are they using.
A SQ woofer will be underhung with a short coil and does not need as much depth in the gap as a SPL or ground pounding woofer.
So woofers also use a bump in the backplate to add depth.
Sometimes though, another slug is added to increase motor strength but this has shown to not help much. A good top plate and pole piece design can be the most effective when coming down to motor strength.
-
plexi mirror will not break unless you hit it with a blunt object or something like that. And even then, it does not shatter. You can also cut it with a razor knife if its thin enough, or a jig saw, or even drill through it if you have to.
-
Great video man, now you mentioned amplifier circuitry that battles impedance rise. What is the name of that circuitry?. Seems the amplifier would be more important in this than a box, because the amp would fight it at all frequencies right?. After watching the video it does seem unless you are a spl burp competitor its almost a waste of time to worry about impedance rise caused by the enclosure.
Amplifiers have an output impedance which will controls the voltage drop on the voice coils. To have a flat voltage, this output impedance must be low. The lower, the better.
This is often called "Damping Factor"
I believe the RF CP has a firmware which controls a dynamic output impedance and can adjust output current in real time.
[/img]
FREE EDUCATION
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
Posted
SPL scores are normally done in a very short period of time.
The majority of energy supplied to the amplifiers would come from the battery bank. So what is the run of wires from batts to amps? Alt to batts would effect charging after the SPL burp more than anything.
So then I propose a question,
How does CCA Stack up against OFC in 3 back to back Bass Boxing Runs? Or after 20 minutes of demos at almost full volume?