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Everything posted by HHR Ed

  1. When I first met Nick Wright, I learned was love actually is.
  2. If the volume was turned all the way down when it blew, then you may have had a different issue. Though low voltage can be a major issue. You will always have voltage drop no matter what. It's best to get the battery quantity and size that can supply your amps with more than what they need at full power. Run it from an alternator that is capable of charging the batts with a bit of extra amperage for overhead. Adding a 14v batt will not work. There is no quick fix. All batts connected in the same charging system must be of the same voltage, and the same type. Switching to a 14V system is a big job and requires your alternator to charge at over 16V. Stick with a 12V system and get your batts and alternator up to par. What batts do you have now? What wires? Give details of your electrical system.
  3. My buddy Rich has been upgrading/prepping his GTO and put on Damplifier Pro. Before he gets to the install, he had to remove cheap asphalt deadener. Not a pretty job. Take his pains as a lesson.
  4. YAY! I love the chargers, and the team that designed them, hehehe.
  5. It's a 9,000W amp. Combine the wattage from 5 tests and express it in Wattage. It should at least be in the 45,000 Watt range.
  6. I honestly think the amp test Tues. Is your best idea for vids. And it shows what good amps are all about. And we all love games. Total number, Id say that amp can reach 12K on high voltage so. 57,500 all tests combined
  7. I am doing something similar. Sure it's worth it. Can add a bit more power and keep the amps running more efficient. You can charge as low as 2.25V per cell ( 7 cells to a 14V batt) For an AGM batt. But you would have to top them off at 16.8V once in a while.
  8. Alternator is probably tuned for slightly higher RPM.
  9. The Sundown 3500 is a solid amp. It is unique in it's components and final design. Cost for amplifiers goes into build quality, component quality, QC, warranty support, as well as performance. That being said, you get an amp that is capable of 4000-4500W on decent electrical. Is extremely durable and reliable. Will sound clean over it's entire life. And if it ever does have issues, you have a company with a great track record for service to back it up.
  10. Cut an opening and seal it back up when you are done, even if you have to use another piece.
  11. did you deaden the outside too?? anyway nice videos...they give a lot of eplanation on how to do things Outside the vehicle? No, why would I do that? Watch the vid, I did the outer door skin and the inner door skin.
  12. Outer door skin is only about 60-70% coverage. Sure 20-25% is effective, and may be adequate. But when planning to do high power, every little bit helps. In fact, I skimped out for the power levels I plan on running. I also plan to chase SPL numbers just a little. The inner door skin requires more coverage because the deadener is being used to cover the openings.
  13. Just did some Damp Pro on my doors. It was in the mid 40s and went on like a charm. To make it just a bit softer for the high contoured areas, I held the piece in front of my heater for 30 seconds. The surface temp of the piece got to mid 70s and was a pleasure to work with.
  14. Can't go wrong with a few sheets of Second Skin Damplifier Pro http://store.secondskinaudio.com/b-stock-pro-bulk-pack/
  15. I think I can create an experiment for this. It'll just take me some time to set it up but it is possible.
  16. I would figure it would be in the thousands of amps range. Maybe over 10,000. I just see so many people recommended to run negative from alts to batt banks nowadays that it has me thinking about a proper explanation.
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