HHR Ed
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Posts posted by HHR Ed
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When setting large systems, especially back when I did SQ competitions, I always preferred an active pre-amp EQ.
The reason for this is ease of adjustability and the ability to use pre-sets.
The Head Units EQ function is pretty basic and does not have the flexibility of good active EQs. You can use the head unit or the amp adjustments and they may be the same quality, but there are slopes to take into consideration.
The adjustments on the amps are hard to get to in most installs, so I would set them flat, set the head unit flat and just sit in the seat and listen to a good CD and play with the EQ adjustments for hours and make a few presets for different types of music.
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Guys rehash old ideas all the time but you are taking me back to partying like its 1999 man, lol
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dont bet on getting money at shows, That is very very rare these days.
Best I did was 3rd place at dB Drag Finals. I got a trophy and the ability to say that I got 3rd at finals.
But to me, the greatest prize was being there with all my friends doing what I love and being surrounded by the best car audio around.
If that isnt enough for you, competitions arent your thing.
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nice truck.
You wonder what its like when people play mid 160s on music?
Well there are only a handful of guys that can do that in the world.
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There are about a dozen or more, field reconable woofers out there not using glues.
As far as the size changing woofers, they can easily just swap baskets and drop in recone assemblies.
I was working on a single basket that can be reconfigured to 2 or 3 different sizes a couple years ago. Limiting factor is it costs a lot of cash to tool all the parts.
So what you describe is not really a new notion. It's just not that feasible, and what has been feasible has been done.
Off the top of my head, look up these.
Lightning Audio Storm
MTX RFL
Image Dynamics IDMax
TC Sounds LMS
Memphis Mojo circa 2003
T Hammer
Alumapro
Boston Acoustics SPG555
Hifonics Maxximus
Kicker Solo X
MTX JackHammer
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search around for those amps to see what they are selling at. You should be able to get enough money from both of them to get a nice 2000w amp.
Plenty of brands to look at. Sundown, Incriminator, Skar. I suggest to look at the vendors on this site and see what they offer.
Once you get one, it will be super easy to hook up and adjust correctly.
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I think its just a great misunderstanding that people have about alternators.
You cannot simply multiply the alternator amperage by your voltage and figure how powerful of a system it can run.
What that will tell you is how much power the alt can supply to your system.
As I stated before, "Time is the forgotten factor when discussing power"
The sole purpose of a battery is to store power over time. We use batteries because there is no way an alternator can supply your total system wattage.
If you are under the assumption that this is how it is figured, I invite you to start your car and then unplug the batteries, then drive around with headlights and just the head unit turned on.
So we must figure system wattage based on the batteries we put in our system. Then we can figure the alternator needed to properly charge those batteries,
Ideally we do want the lowest charge factor we can get. I mentioned earlier that the above system will have a factor of 1-1.9. A factor of 1-1 is ideal but it is very difficult.
You can have 2 alternators supply a total of 515A to the above setup for that 1-1. But this does not limit wattage to 5-6k. This just ensures that those batteries are kept charged at 1 minute of charge for every minute of play. But the batteries alone can supply up to 15,000w.
My example is my old setup with 10 batteries off of my stock alternator. I would bass race 10,000w and drop to 12.9v DC after 30 seconds. I would demo for 5 minutes on 10,000w and drop to 12.2v.
I would then turn off or turn down my system and charge up for 10 minutes and do it all again.
When I drove around, Id play maybe 80% volume and would play my full 1 hour drive and never drop below 12.2v
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running 2 different amps to the woofers is not something you would want to do. Even if they were rated the same power, the amps themselves are of different efficiency and sound qualities and this could adversely effect your system performance3.
I suggest selling 1 amp and getting a matching amp for the other. Or selling both amps and getting a single 2000w amp.
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BTW, if you want to run 9000w for headroom, that is great, it'll run much longer and more efficient.
That battery setup will supply a 9000w solid tone for over 15 minutes.
With the alternator running it'll be over 20 minutes.
I dont think anyone will play a 20 minute tone at full power on 9000w for 20 minutes.
On common music and playing habits of the common person, you will have no problem playing for a few hours.
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Alternators are designed around the battery setup, not the wattage, You cannot supply total system wattage from an alternator.
So the question is, can a 270A alt charge 4 D3100s and a D6500.
Answer, yes
How long will that charge take is the question that should be asked. So lets try and figure that out.
4 D3100 and a D6500 will have a combined aH rating of 515ah
So we see a factor of 1.9. That means that with ever 1 minute of discharge, it will take 1.9 minutes of charge to top the batteries off.
Now how long will it take to totally deplete those batteries with 15,000w?
If calculating dropping to 10v thats about 1500a of current.
According to the amperage capabilities of the D3100s over time, that will be about 10 minutes of a constant tone at 100% amplifier power.
Now playing music with breaks can extend that over twice as much. And of course a higher amp alternator can extend that even further.
But lets say that he plays a solid full power tone for 10 minutes, it will then take 19 minutes to charge back up.
Or we can figure that with the car running and charging during that full power tone, it will take a about 15 minutes to drop the batteries to 10v.
For every 1 second of a bass beat, the alt will need 1.9 seconds to keep the batts fully charged. If there is only 1 second pause per 1 second bass beat, he can still play a constant full 15,000w bass beat for over half an hour.
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Well XS Power rates the D3100 at 5000w each. I use 85% of that as a more realistic number to play music over a lengthy period of time.
Time is the forgotten factor when discussing power
Now most amps will make about 85% of the power they draw. Maybe less.
So lets crunch those numbers.
4 x D3100s at 5000w each = 20,000w + D6500 @ 3000w. = 23,000w. - engine and car electrical = 22,000
85% of 22,000 = 18,700
85% of 18,700 = 15,895
Now like I said, that is the upper limit of what you have the potential to make. As long as the amps are running efficient, and the batteries are charged up.
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depends on whether you use 3 or 4 D3100s since that can be quite an increase. Id say with 4 you can squeeze 15000w
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it certainly warmed the van's interior pretty nicely
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your version > yins version. his is like 8 minutes long lol
lol. i don't edit vids. i take em and upload
*edit - jin btw
lol, this is like my least edited video.
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Fair fucks to sundown is all I'm saying...
That's what I'm saying. Well done indeed
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lol, we were sitting there a long time.
I wanted bacon or sausage after a few minutes
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yes it does act like a flared port. But, on 3/4" it is so small as compared to the size of low frequency waves that it will barely effect any measurement.
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2.4v per cell is safe charging. That's 14.4 For lengthy time periods. You can go higher for short bursts
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whats a PA performance?
It is a company that a ton of the mustang guys use. Here is the output chart of their amps at given RPMS. http://www.paperform...ra.asp?extra=11
Our cars, especially heavily modified ones, don't idle as nice as a lot of these newer things. Mine bounces between 800-900 at idle, so at the time, it was one of the best I knew about for a nice price.
HHR Ed, thank you for the information. Would you recommend tying those batteries together for the entire car, or installing a battery isolator for the rear mounted one? Just trying to determine everything I need for budget purposes before a purchase.
Use them together. They are both of the same chemistry (AGM) so no need to isolate them.
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Im not so much as excited as I am eager to finally relax with some nice cars and Bass.
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With your power you can get away with a D3400 or S3400
Oh look, I found one here.
http://showtimecaraudio.net/bci_group/58/
But you would benefit a great deal by adding a 2nd batt in the back, a XP950 would do great as a 2nd batt in combo to a 3400
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The harness doesnt do anything by itself.
It is meant to adapt the VCM to your alt.
Without the VCM, there is nothing to adapt to.
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Got a ridiculous hypothetcial question for the pro's.
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
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They had it up until 2003 I think.
I was an installer at Circuit back then and installed a few of them.
We also had a guy on the local dB Drag Scene with a bunch of Bazooka woofers in a wall and all liquid cooled up. Was decent for a budget product setup.
Good thing I am already working on NO2 cooled woofers, Muwahahaha!