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HHR Ed

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Posts posted by HHR Ed

  1. LOL . . . you guys have it made with your selection of 2,000, 4,000, and 5,000 Watt amps now-a-days. Back in "the day" when we sold that stuff new the Thor was the cut-off point for a vehicle with a stock electrical system. A Boltar, Atlas, ISIS, or Zeus definitely meant that we were upgrading stuff. A "big" alternator then made 190 amps, sold for around $600.00 and typically required serious modifications to install it - both mechanical and electrical.

    And yeah, good amps sold for between $1 and $2 per watt . . . I still have a HIFonics Series VII Gemeni . . . probably won't ever sell it.

    Can I buy your Gemini?

  2. Its good you are thinking of ideas.

    The main drawbacks are these.

    Magnetic woofer connections - Not a solid connection, current and voltage transfer capabilities would be on the low end. Susceptible to vibration and high power may induce arcing at connection which would create heat at connector.

    Bluetooth amp signal input. - Bluetooth is basically a radio transmitter and receiver. Because of this, interference from outside sources is possible, signal to noise ratio is diminished from standard hard lines, signal voltage is limited, and frequency response is limited.

  3. Different sizes are OK as long as they are the same brand and type battery. Ideally they should be the same size but different sizes will still work.

    The main issue is that when they are of different types, one may have a slightly higher resting voltage than the other. Even if this is a few milivolts, the higher batt will charge the lower batt, when that drops down then it will feed back off of the lower batt. And this happens over and over and over and the plates heat up and cause the batts to wear down prematurely.

    While you have a very valid point, IMHO if you have all brand new batteries, this doesn't really happen.

    Not true, Certain AGM batts may rest at 12.8 while certain wet cells may rest at 12.6. Even brand new, fully charged. DONT MIX TYPES

    I have AGM batteries in the back that rest at 13-13.1, and my front flooded battery rests at 12.8.

    I can turn off the car, come back 2 days later and everything is still sitting at 13-13.1. So whatever parasitic draw caused by the front battery is negligible in my case.

    The life of your batteries are being cut down

  4. Different sizes are OK as long as they are the same brand and type battery. Ideally they should be the same size but different sizes will still work.

    The main issue is that when they are of different types, one may have a slightly higher resting voltage than the other. Even if this is a few milivolts, the higher batt will charge the lower batt, when that drops down then it will feed back off of the lower batt. And this happens over and over and over and the plates heat up and cause the batts to wear down prematurely.

    While you have a very valid point, IMHO if you have all brand new batteries, this doesn't really happen.

    Not true, Certain AGM batts may rest at 12.8 while certain wet cells may rest at 12.6. Even brand new, fully charged. DONT MIX TYPES

  5. Different sizes are OK as long as they are the same brand and type battery. Ideally they should be the same size but different sizes will still work.

    The main issue is that when they are of different types, one may have a slightly higher resting voltage than the other. Even if this is a few milivolts, the higher batt will charge the lower batt, when that drops down then it will feed back off of the lower batt. And this happens over and over and over and the plates heat up and cause the batts to wear down prematurely.

  6. That was in the year 4 year´s before DD-1. Did you found a old harddrive or where did you dug this up, smokin vid.

    haha, too bad it had nothing to do with distortion.

    It was due to the power compression on those weak v1 cones. 25kw of power pushing on them through massive backpressure just collapsed the cones.

    Google found the vids from Myspace I think and suggested I migrate them to YouTube so I did.

  7. The frame renderings themselves are not ready to be shared yet but the cone body and surrounds are ready.

    Each surround has the following calculated geometric capacity :

    10 -- 50mm one-way (frame allows 45)

    12 -- 55mm one-way (frame allows 50)

    15 -- 60mm one-way (frame allows 55)

    Therefore; each one has a 5mm cushion beyond what the frame can handle in it so the surround CANNOT reach the maximum geometric limit -- as this can cause stress and eventually tear the surround. We've taken note that no open tool / readily available surround can handle what some of our newer designs can dish out already... and future designs will be even more extreme on throw so these surrounds are made to handle anything we can dish out with the new frames.

    The foam material itself is also quite thick so it remains stable at such a massive size. Yes these surrounds are insanely large... but we do plan to use them to their full potential as time goes on so they are completely necessary and not just for looks. I am not aware of any surround other than the Earthquake HoleeS that has similar capacity (it's about the size of the surround on our 10" cone).

    SA-10_Cone_Web.jpg

    SA-12_Cone_Web.jpg

    SA-15_Cone_Web.jpg

    Each cone fits the same dust cap as the Z v.3 15/18 and the SA-15 -- it is a "boob" cap as that design is stronger than the flatter dust caps we have used for years on the NS / older Z model subs. Also simplifies how many different dust cap we have to keep on hand.

    The cone body is also quite thick and will be very similar to the material of the Z v.3 18" cones now -- but we may vary the exact material distribution slightly to get a bit more stiffness from these.

    These will be used on the X Line, Z v.3 Line, and NS line woofers. We will eventually make 4" coil versions as well for future designs using the same surround just a different cone body.

    -----

    Anton Miller did this rending in 3D of the 12" cone and surround :

    29347d1333044717-sundown-new-2012-frames-parts-thread-12-cone.jpg

    Pretty dang tall surround.

    Have you had any similar surrounds to test with to see if there is any buckling or crinkling under high excursion?

    If so, I know of ways to diminish and eliminate it.

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