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mr.p

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Posts posted by mr.p

  1. or if you dont have the clamps all you need to do is put glue on the spider landing and surround on the basket, and just put a shim in and stick the recone on and set a battery or weight and just let that put the pressure on the landing and for the surround and hit the landing with accelerator and your good to go :drinks:

    i did a friends xl 15" and they threw it in 30 minutes later and beat on it all the way home :)

  2. With a tight box and large port the port only reinforces the woofer for a narrow range of frequencies

    , so tuning low will be to your advantage as in the music range (35-50hz) the subs will actually be getting alot of excursion!

    Also on the low notes the subs will barely move. If you tune normal 35-40hz in this type of box the subs wont move playing those notes, and you will end up with some very hot subs and smelly coils :pardon: as most music is in this range....you want to tune as low as possible so only on the low notes they have less excursion.

    Atleast thats what i think and has worked for me.

  3. Well ya see in theory, if you have a 270A alternator and back batteries your runs front to rear only have to supply the current that the alt can produce + or - for the voltage drop so lets say 300A depending on length of your runs this could be done with one or two runs of 1/0...

    IF you connect your alternator to the front battery and have the runs going from the front battery to the back batteries, your runs now have to flow the current that the front battery + alternators can discharge, i dont know about you but batteries are rated in CRANKING amps, ya know like 1000CCA <_<

    Now you need a hell of alot more runs right?

    Also mismatching batteries is not optimal.

    Ever seen a SS CRX burp car, how many runs from the front to rear do they have?

    With the jeep i had 1 run of 1/0 per 300A alternator, and had a .1-.2 voltage drop full tilt between front and rear.

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