Ben Building

This is not threadjacking, Bro. This is supposed to be an open discussion about ways we can help save each other time or make our own rides safer or louder (thanks, Steve ).

What about 2 AB 100.1s for $700? http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq288/B...ing/Image84.jpg

Exactly, my point. Why use an alarm upgrade to arm/disarm the factory alarm? True it saves you from having to find door lock wires, but why not just use a pulse (+/-) arm and disarm the factory alarm like we've always done? Please excuse me if this is a dumb question, but so far, I don't see it's advantages. Assuming the interface kits save the installer time (=money), but what about the security aspect? All factory alarms for the same vehicle are pretty much the same. Having the exact same alarm (minus any add-ons) as everyone else who drives that model car is not going to make the car more safe is it?

I have some badass 20x8.5" Boss 318 on 245/35/20 Toyo Proxes 4 tires for $850. They are 5 bolt rims (2005 Nissan Altima), so they should fit. I'll post pics in a few, but let me know if you're interested. My email is [email protected].

Hmmm...

Thanks, Blue. That's about what I've come up with, except for the L-shaped port. I think I'll try to keep the port as straight as possible to minimize drag. The only problem with a straight port is making it come out close to the sub. How do those Fi or Dc 10s sound and how much airspace do they need? How would they work in an undersized box tuned low? Real world power handling?

How bout $325 for this one: http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq288/B...ing/Image84.jpg

It would have been cool to make and mount a trim ring for one high-power 12 inch subwoofer and mold a wood and fiberglass enclosure out of the rest of the space. The Ram is wide enough to make a looong port for a low fb, but mounting height precludes a REALLY powerful sub. Hopefully Santa will slide a couple of these down the chimney this year: http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq288/B...namicscs162.jpg and this is the first time I've owned a vehicle wide enough to take full advantage of the front stage, so I need an impressive beat to match.

I'm with Raytard on that one. With daily drivers, sometimes less really is more. lol

Thanks for the help, Blue. I'd like to do something creative under there but, as you can see, there's not a lot of space to play with? Looking for suggestions here, so if it was your truck, what would you do?

That is a cool concept car, but keep in mind that it's only a concept. Any production U.S.-legal production car based on this design would look a LOT different. The concept doesn't have a bumper for asthetic purposes, but it wouldn't pass DOT certification. Ditto applies to the super-cool looking LED headlights. DOT regs require headlights to be xx inches from the road surface.

Hey Guys, This topic pertains to the advantages of OEM factory alarm upgrades. I've never been to actual school for mobile electronics, but have done lots of alarms over the years. Lots of us haven't, so I know I'm not the only one that needs to hear some input from more experienced installers. Sure, having a black box control locks, immobilizer bypasses, and factory alarm is nifty, but is it really necessary? How do these interface kits either save time for the installer or add security/ convenience for the customer?

I thought I had been wasting time finding my tach wires at the injector! lol

If anybody has any experience building a custom box for this truck I would LOVE to hear from you before I get started.

No, there's no tray under the seat. I'm ok with fiberglass, but there are guys on this forum that are LOTS better. I want to try to tub the whole space out, but there's not a lot that will fit under there.

If you want girls to want to be close to you, the try 360 White, bro. Trust me.

How do your boss's shallow subs sound as far as low bass extension and SPL? How much airspace do they have? How much power is he using and in what kind of vehicle? Do you guys think I would be better off going with 4 10 or 12 inch shallow subs (presumably inefficient), or cram the biggest single sub under the seat that will fit height-wise into a single ported box?

I have a three month old American Bass VFL 100.1 for $350 if it's in your budget. The amp has been running at 2 ohms during that time period and doesn't even get warm on those speakers, so it hasn't been abused...

I just got a 2002 Dodge Ram SLT with the factory system and it SUCKS! I have to do something fast. I don't want to do anything crazy (yet) like a wall or a blow through, but I do need some low end. So, right now it looks like I'm stuck with the space under the rear bench seat. I have 2 new American Bass VFL 100.1 amps and would like to use both if I can find subs that can handle that power on a day-to-day basis that still fit under the seat, box and all. I'm running one of the VFLs at 2 ohms in a Mountaineer on 2 Lanzar Optidrive 1232D subs (2.75c.f., 25.12 sq. inches of vent tuned to 22hz). Anybody who has any experience with that amp knows why I'm not optimistic about flat subs taking that kind of power on a daily basis. Does anybody have any good ideas for this install? I've seen the prebuilt boxes for under the seat of the truck, but who wants to slap a sub in any old box? The chances of that sounding right.... Right now I'm leaning toward making a custom fiberglass/wood box for one high-power sub, but again the space issue. Most strong subs simply won't fit into the 9 inches or so under that seat. Is anyone familiar with the Audiopipe TSF 1200 flat subwoofer? It's said to handle 1000w RMS, but will 4 of them fit under that seat? Can you really get BIG bass from those flat-type speakers in a small box? If it helps, I will post pics of the truck asap. PLEASE HELP ME!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think T-line referrs to a transmision line enclosure. They are super efficient, true, but aren't they also super tricky to build. That is unless you're willing to measure your speaker parameters yourself and build a few test boxes...