csills

i see what ur saying dude and i know this already, i wanted to know what kind of alt should i get i know i have to get a dual , and run one to the factory and the other one to the amp and battery, i wanted to know what alt i should get that puts around 18v

ok and what was my question i asked what alt did i need? i didnt ask about the 16v side or anything, hell i charge up my battery all the time on the 12v side and it STILL reads the same on the 16v side it reads about 17.6-17.7volts, im not stupid, its not gonna die im sure hes never even used this battery he just has to throw his opinions at me, i've been down that road before im sorry.

im not using the 16v post, only for burps, i also have a kinetik charger for the batt, i dont know why people always have to assume there opinion and be so negative about it im sorry that you have no friends bro.

well im probably about 40 miles from indy, i didnt need you to get an attitude about it, i just needed input on the batts my buddy bought one also and he's had his running in his car for 2 years, something must be wrong there i guess, haha anyways, i guess ill get a different battery but the main reason was a alternator , there is alternators that will charge 16v batterys with ease.

i see what ur saying it will go bad because its a 16v battery but couldnt i just use the 12v like i have it setup now, i have my power wire 0gauge from my front bat to the back so the alt can keep both charged, im not the type of person who plays my music constantly ill play it for about 30 minutes, let it charge and play again. what i want to know is its @ 14.3 idle drops to around 13.6 on music when i was testing it, after i was done testing it still read 14.3 idle, that was with both bats hooked up ect

it wont go bad, he's used them in multiple installs on the 12v post , i doubt it will go bad, what should i do about the alt

bump anyone?

also i dont think im ever gonna use the 16v post reason being is that its ran from my stock batt to the front so my alt can keep both bats charged, so far so good, but i know for a fact i need a alt, but i had second thoughts because people told me its a ass to get out, and i mean a ass

nope i ran it on the 12v before when i was doing testing, because before i bought the amp i was reading on here people were saying it cuts out, mine never cut out @ 1 ohm each channel lowest it droped was 13.5 half way tilt around 32/50 volume and gains below half on the amp

neo where @ in indiana you at?

no there is a option to run @ 12v or 16V, the guy who sold it to me he had 16 of them in his civic, he use to be in competitions i bought it for 200$ i couldnt pass that up lol, but i have it on the 12v post

yes i recently sold my old audio equipment (2 12" w7's ect. ect. ) i now have a audiopipe 3001D, and a kinetic HC16V im either getting 2 15's in sealed or 2 12's in a slot ported box @ 32hz. i know this amp is power hungry and i was wondering what alt for a good price would get my some more voltage gains, im @ 14.3 idle right now. heres some more information: My link i cant find a link for the AP-3001D but i need a alt for a 1999 mercury cougar, thanks

looking to buy 2 15in fi btls good condition and good price

ok so 2 days ago i just sold my JL w7's 12 for 200$ a piece, i know it was a good deal speaking that noone wanted to buy them for 400$ a piece on CL, but anyways i thought about building a computer, or start a new build i need peoples opinions on 2 FI 15" BTLS fully loaded, does anyone here have them, can they take a lot of power? what kind of amps do you guys prefer for 2 of them @ 1ohm, just need some inputs before i purchase them

sounds like clipping

http://www.youtube.com/user/jurecords#p/u/0/90Icmb_xGRQ searching through youtube and found him i never heard of him but hes undergound and hes hella good

is it power hungry

520 shipped? where you located?

all i know that is have currently have a 99 cougar, the engine is pretty much crammed in there, there wont be any room for driling a hole, i just ran mine through the steering, its right behind the brake booster.

i might be intrested, what would push 2 jl w7's 12" 2000w/1000rms both bridged would be 1.5, so what is capable pushing 2000rms @ 1.5 ohm load

looking for a saz 2000d for a good price

there is absolutely no holes..i had to run my through the steering column, another thing if you do wanna do a system is, alt is terrible, recall on battery wire, (to small) . i have only 1 12 w7 in mine and yes it hits, im getting my other one reconed, but other than that upgrade wiring cuz my lights dim like crazy even with a cap. also, i will doing a build on here on mine in about 2 weeks with 2 jl w7 12inch tuned @ 32hz with a SAZ-2000D, the only thing im stuck on is should i add a sec battery or upgrade alternator, thing is my alt is a *(&*^ to get to and take off, on top of that i have a valve cover gasket leak, leaking ontop of my alt and my belt, so if i was every to upgrade my alt it would tear a hole in my pocket cuz i would have to fix that while im at it, unless someone here can tell me step by step how to take my alt out.

ok so i bought a EVGA GTX 260 about 2 weeks ago, and everytime i game for about 30 minutes it would make my game look like its on acid (artifacts). ok so heres the story plugged her in a 500WATT PSU, i thought it kept doing that so i got a new PSU. i moved to a OCZ 600WATT PSU with 4 12v rails. load up a game and it still does it. things i have done. 1. reinstalled drivers with driver cleaner. 2. checked temps right when the problem starts happening. 3. played at lower resolution and lower settings still does it. 4. i RMA'd for a replacement, it should be here in about a week and a half here are some pix. http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/4929/95317261xz6.jpg http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/8149/denuke0001ua5.jpg http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/1968/denuke0002aw1.jpg games that I've played fallout 3 and counter strike source. so i called the people first when it starting doing this, they said it was my power supply that is why i have a new one now. i do know a LOT about computers and im 19 years old and i've been building since i was 11 years old, i got into them from a friend. kinda like legos i believe its a bad GPU or bad memory. bad memory is like a Hard drive on a video card, it loads every texture in a game and loads them in the memory, as your looking at a wall or anything in a game right when you look at a specific place in a game it loads it from the Memory from the video card. i believe my memory inside my video card are blanks so it would look something like this 0x0x0x0x000000. the zeros at the end indicate when it cant read anymore and give you weird artifacts. its suppose to look something like this 0x0x0x0x0x0x0x0x0x0x0x0 and so on. that is just what a example im trying to say, trying to make it easier for you computer illiterate guys:). but that is just my opinion , some people here might have experienced the same problem and might actually know the true answer, i was tired of goin on evga forums and them making me spend money when i knew for a fact it wasnt it. so any idea what it is? i believe its bad memory whats your thoughts? thanks CS