Baydestrian

SpamBOT, I ain't clicking that link

Are you running Spotify on your phone then connecting via BT or are you using Android Auto/Car Play?

Went to the JL Audio Twitter and saw they commented on a tag from PASMAG who shared your photos of the subs

Yep, like Smoke said, Korean/Chinese/Brazilian (style) boards. Full Bridge are "Brazilian style" after being made popular by Taramps/Sound Digital (same company pretty much IIRC). Most companies that are putting out true high wattage amps are using Korean boards. Wolfram has the C2400 which is a great Chinese board for cheap, about $250. They have he W/AW series amps which are Korean, 3K and 4.5K versions for about $600-800. Both series being half bridge. Then they have the O Series which are Full Bridge and are doing 8000w for like $600. Full Bridge tend to be more compact in siz

Good to know...seems to be Pioneer distorts at 32. Need to def do mine since I'm usually at 35/36 on mine. Haven't had any issues with my system though

I believe what my buddy suggests is to just leave the AGM in front and tape off the neg cable so incase you ever need the battery to start the car you can disconnect the lithium and quickly get the car started from the AGM And yeah, Jose from Phat Boyz runs JVF subs which is what I run. Jeff Vue is a hobby sub builder from Sacramento. Love his beast subs lol.

yeah I know, on my to do list. Either my LC1 or my Wolfram since both were installed together and I had no issues before them. LC1 being the easiest to test lol.

Sub Level on HU should be set to 10 At what DB is the 40hz tone? Should be 0db or 5db. My buddy tried to DD1 my Wolfram 3K on my AVH2300 a few months ago but was getting major distortion when first trying to find max volume for some reason. Unplugging the ground loop isolator before the amp got rid of it a bit but had to use a -10db 40hz tone and my "feedback" noise back without the isolator. So we scrapped it and reset the gain to how it was. I recently got the 2660 to replace the 2300 since the buttons on that died, interested to see if you can get this working. Don'

If you need a car audio shop then check out Phat Boyz in Oakland, solid shop https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWn0gHYnTEU

Bass is dedicated subwoofer amp...MD is a full range amp which is why it has the HPF....I ran the MD5K for a while, switched to a Wolfram 3K. Much happier overall, lows are so much better along with quality of the bass.

Deadener makes the door heavier and decreases/eliminate vibrations, helping out to not lose midbass. Add in some Fast Rings to help direct the audio into the cabin.

My response did answer his question. Playing speakers on radio power is fine but it won't be as loud as with an amp giving it power, the power it gives won't be anywhere close to 50w. Yes, he could power the speakers with the Skar, its nearly double the power so he would have to be very careful with setting the gain and using overlap meaning using SMD tools. He could get the 75.4 Skar and be closer to the 60rms rating and not have to worry as much. Wattage is power handling, mean the amount of power the speaker can take "safely".

Headunit will not be 50w lol, its more so 20-25w. Find the amp you want, find a component set that can handle the RMS power at 4ohms that the amp puts out. Done. Always good to have more headroom then being under powered.

LMAO....500....surely better than his 30K Nice setup, I ran my MD5K at 1ohm and never had issues..."dropped" to a 3K Korean though and its noticeable difference in sound quality and power

They are actually the first pair of Comps I've had amp'd. Prior comps I had were RF Punch comps back in like 2010 and then some other Focal's in 2015/16. I think they sound really good, even set with no EQ, I only have mild EQ with them just messing around, need to learn more about EQing but that's a different story.