Baydestrian

Deaf Bonce for sure https://www.down4soundshop.com/brands/alphard-deaf-bonce/speakers/tweeters/

Shit on JL but praise Skarbage....actual R&D vs Chinese buildhouse bullshit On topic, I'd run another 500/1 so each sub gets one. Not enough power for the both. JL also makes really nice VX line amps (multi & single channel amps with built in DSP), I have one and love it though Audiocontrol has similar amps with more bang for buck. Either would work great for implementing into a factory system. For mids/highs you can look at Audiofrog and Focal, just to name a couple. Def wouldn't fire at the windshield, I have a dashpad to help reflection off glass firing onto plastic dashboard. Try going A Pillar for Tweets (also Mids if you go 3 way set).

I'm almost 100% sure my buddy who builds banks just uses a NOCO Genius charger. He built my 40ah Headway bank.

My boys run Arnolds, haven't heard in person but they are loud af. No tweet really even necessary. Pretty insane. I personally just swapped my Focal PS comps for a pair of Sundown Neos & CT meso tweets. On the same power they are so much louder and clearer than the Focals.

Local FB car audio group, FB marketplace, Offerup

Crutchfield doesn't have a ton of high power mids. Best best is Sky High & Down4Sound shop for nice comps. I'd imagine a 6.5 comp set would be fine, mid in the door and tweeter in dash. Can also get some coax's for the rear doors or just put each tweeter and each midwoofer on a channel. The LC7i is nice but lots of manufacturers like Pioneer and Kenwood make great HU's. You are looking in the $600-$1400 range though depending on features like wanting wireless Apple Play/Android Auto

Still lurk around, mainly in the build log section. Didn't have car audio from about 2013 until 2016. Been slowly going bigger and bigger since then.

haha unfortunately I don't get on this site much anymore. Sent you a PM though that might help you sell some things

Late post but NVX X-Series, I like em in my car

Good to know...seems to be Pioneer distorts at 32. Need to def do mine since I'm usually at 35/36 on mine. Haven't had any issues with my system though

I believe what my buddy suggests is to just leave the AGM in front and tape off the neg cable so incase you ever need the battery to start the car you can disconnect the lithium and quickly get the car started from the AGM And yeah, Jose from Phat Boyz runs JVF subs which is what I run. Jeff Vue is a hobby sub builder from Sacramento. Love his beast subs lol.

yeah I know, on my to do list. Either my LC1 or my Wolfram since both were installed together and I had no issues before them. LC1 being the easiest to test lol.

Sub Level on HU should be set to 10 At what DB is the 40hz tone? Should be 0db or 5db. My buddy tried to DD1 my Wolfram 3K on my AVH2300 a few months ago but was getting major distortion when first trying to find max volume for some reason. Unplugging the ground loop isolator before the amp got rid of it a bit but had to use a -10db 40hz tone and my "feedback" noise back without the isolator. So we scrapped it and reset the gain to how it was. I recently got the 2660 to replace the 2300 since the buttons on that died, interested to see if you can get this working. Don't think I'll be able to try DD1 on my unit anytime soon.

If you need a car audio shop then check out Phat Boyz in Oakland, solid shop https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWn0gHYnTEU

Versus threads aren't allowed on here...on that note, DC amps are top notch. Can't go wrong. Also, this video: